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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I suspect the answer is "depends". Bells seem to be placed for accessibility and I believe space was also taken into consideration. I've seen them with bells forward and also also aft. Sometimes stand alone belfries and other times they were a part of some other bit of deck furniture such as rail that ran side to side and the belfry incorporated into it. I've seen a few where the bell is hanging off the side of a mast (on a small arm).. But, you are the captain and you can put it any place you see fit.
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Great to see you back, Jerzy.
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Hi Srenner, I have one suggestion.... instead of the metal elbows for the keel/bulkhead joints, I'd recommend getting some lengths of square basswood. Maybe 1" square. Use these glued to the false keel and bulkheads. Id' use two pieces between two bulkheads (high and low. When clamped and glued into position, they not only square things up but also help to remove the warp out of keel.
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Hello from Southeast Michigan, USA
mtaylor replied to DonBMichigan's topic in New member Introductions
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hello -old shipbuilder signing in for first time
mtaylor replied to manning16's topic in New member Introductions
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Just looking at those photos, I can almost smell the sea air. Just an amazing diorama.
- 542 replies
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Interesting discussion this. Looking the condition of it in the photos, I have to wonder if it isn't a "recent" gun made for the reenactor folks. Possibly Civil War or even Revolutionary era???? As for the markings (proof) wouldn't those tend to be on top and not hidden say on the bottom? I've seen reproductions in the past of reenactor guns used for the reenactments and this one just doesn't look old enough to be the real deal.
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There's alot of ways to get there. Here's a short list... 1) Soak for maybe 1 hour or more depending. Put the wood in a microwave and heat. Check constantly so as not to burn the wood. 2) The afore mentioned soak and curling iron, plank bender, etc. Again, the heat must be applied for more than minute or two. 3) There's a method by Chuck involving soaking the plank and then bending it using nails set into a large piece of wood such as to form the shape and allow to cool in the jig. Apply heat with a hair dryer or heat gun. I've found this method works best for me. I'm sure there's a few more but the big thing is don't be afraid to test different methods as to soaking time and heating time. Everything is a variable with different species of wood, different thicknesses, etc. So testing for the best result is necessary.
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Merry Christmas Eric! I feel your frustration but the "fixes" to this kit seem to be working very well.
- 113 replies
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- Cairo
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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It's great to hear that you are safe on the home front and also the update on this incredible work of art.
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For zero clearance inserts I make my own as I found the plastic deform with a shop vac hooked up does control using the saw's vacuum port. What ended up doing was using ply the thickness of the factory insert and then run some braces one the bottom of the insert such they drop below the insert mounting. Install blade and run the blade up to where comes out the top to the height I need for the wood thickness plus some. I found that with due care, they last a long time and I make several at once using different width blades.
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I too am glad you made it through the virus attack. And what Bruce said about using power tools I totally agree with.
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