Old Collingwood

8 minutes ago, Javlin said:

Both are in the stash now OC I have about 250 unbuilt kits ATTM and about 200-225 built and mine is consider by some a small stash.It really boils down to time and space for now Kevin

I am biased  (just a little bit  )    but will follow what ever you build with kean interest.

OC.

"Please get the Mossie"   heard there are some rather nice kits at that scale.......please please.

OC.

Thanks  EG,     this is what  I have / will use  (minus the Acrylic  tin top coat that I now will not touch with a barge pole)  - 

First  (already down)   then camo colours,   then  the Black,   followed by  the Flat  top coat  All tamiya  Laquar sprays.

OC.

5 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I should have mentioned that I've painted Vallejo acrylics on top of the Mr. Color lacquer primer and Tamiya lacquer paints no problems.  Only problem I've had is when I used that Polycarbonate paint on top of acrylics - that caused the acrylic to turn runny.

 

One thing to note too is that there are varying opinions on how long to let something dry and especially cure before adding a different layer on top.  Most seem to suggest waiting at least overnight, if not 24 hours, to be on the safer side.

Thanks Mike, certainly lessons learned.

OC.

Thank you kindly Mike,    I am fully relating to that,   I think that is what happened  a combination of what EG said and  yourself  -  the  laquar layer  reacted  (made worst by heat)  with the  Acrylic  Tamiya  top coat semi gloss.

What I will do in future  - Not mix  laquar with  Acrylic,   and to finish my mossie off  -  use the two colour  laquar  tamiya rattle sprays,   sort out some decs  - put them down again using my  micro set and sol,  then after  about a  week  or so  use the tamiya  laquar  flat coat  but somehow try not to spray it  to thick  (not that easy with rattle cans).

OC.

4 minutes ago, Canute said:

OC, looks like a great save. Well done.

Thanks Ken,   its a clear canvas again ready for masking and spraying.

OC.

4 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

 

I suspect the biggest problem with the Spitfire against the Zero was armament.  The Spit had only a few .30 cal. machine guns.  The Zero had to cannon and several larger caliber MG's.  I'm only "suspecting" this as I'm not full in on the details of the adversaries at the time.

I know in the European theater  the Spit IX  was introduced  with the more poweful engine, this made it a match for the rather excellent FW190  of the Germans,   I assume more poweful spits  were shiped out over seas  but not sure.

OC.

That is looking very nice my friend  - very tidy work.

OC.

I put the fuselage aside  and tuned my attention to the Black  paint underneath both stabs  and  main wing,   this was straight forward as they had already been primed,  I decided to hand paint these  same as I hand painted the other wing,   I masked up a few areas  on the wing near the flaps  - then painted away.

I  have the stabs done  and part of the main wing - I will  finish the rest when the paint is dry and hardened.

OC.

So  after  the disaster,   the process  to try to turn it around  started  last night  by me trying the old trick  of using masking tape to pull the damaged decals off,   several  tries  and to my amazement the worst culprits came away without  damaging the paint work underneath.

So today  after a good sleep,  I got some fine wet and dry  and soapy warm water, and proceded to work on the areas affected,  this worked out quite well  as the tamiya laquar layers that had been sprayed on with the rattle cans, had actually  formed quite a hard layer  - so I carried on.

When I was happy with the finish  the next stage was to mask off and isolate  (thas a good word these days)  the front section as that was not affected, so with the aid of a plastic bag and tape  - it did the job.

So this is the fuslage  ready to be masked up  for the camo colours.

OC.

8 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Sorry this happened OC. 

If it's any consolation I know you will be able to get over it somehow. 

Thank you Edward,   I think I have it in hand, read  lower.......

OC.

8 hours ago, cog said:

Can you get your hands on Mr Paint cleaner? It removes even enamels. That might just be the solution for the stripping, or as Lou suggested. I wouldn't just sand lightly and spray, or hand paint for that matter. It might become looking rather clumsy. Every layer you add with a brush is quite thick, compared to airbrush or rattle can.

 

Maybe you can have decals printed. This is the sheet. Make certain it's at the right scale when you have it printed on decal paper. If you can't give me the measurements of the sheet or from a large decal and I see what I can do for you. You might even try to contact Revell ... it's a German company, so close enough to home

 

So sorry this happened to you. Especially since it really went so well, and it was looking so marvelous

Thank you so much  for checking that out, like I said to Lou  - the restoration is in place,   I will explain more  lower......

OC.

11 hours ago, lmagna said:

If you are going to strip it down anyway OC why not take it all the way and try a bottle of Super Clean like EG described in his car build and take it down to the plastic?

 https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperClean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-gal/23752162?selected=true

 

Might be better to start from the beginning rather than go halfway. 

 

Sorry this happened to you it was going so nicely.

Thanks Lou,    the restoration  begins .......

OC.

1 minute ago, Egilman said:

That's how I would do it, others might have a better way though....

Thanks mate,   reasurance  knowing you would do it that way, kind of a busy head at the moment   working it out.

OC.

Painting wise  - what do you guys think is best  - paint the camo  first  by letting a small amount of over spray  then mask up  and  do the Black   meaning just the one demarcation line needed.

OC.

I think it makes it more interesting to paint seperate assemblies  - like mini  jobs.

OC.

Just a small update  -  I was able to pull the (now)  damaged  decals off  using masking tape,  I was lucky  it didn't pull any layers of paint off  underneath,  so I should now have a fairly good surface  (after a light wet n dry)  to  re paint.

OC.

11 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Yep, I would give a light sand down of the affected areas and repaint.... 

 

Like I said, the decals will take care of themselves.....

 

It's too damned pretty not to finish it....

Thank you EG,   I will have a go latter today.

OC.

7 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I'm sorry brother, I didn't catch that, no acryls ever get applied over true lacquers... period why cause lacquers, the real lacquers can take up to two months to completely degass (dry/cure) once you have applied a true lacquer you have to stay on that road....

 

Lacquers are lacquers whether or not it be applied to a model or a car or a piece of furniture.... they don't mix with anything well at all..... (and they can take forever to cure)

Truly a lesson for future builds  - painting with laquars  keep it just laquars, painting with Acrylics  keep it Just Acrylics , I never use Enamels anymore.

OC.

2 minutes ago, Javlin said:

OC I was building a small cabinet for the wife to go in a bathroom solid black and she has been prone to the oriental black very glossy and deep.I think I applied the lacquer clear first and it had cured well   and for some reason applied an acrylic clear and it cracked like crazy spider webbed.Those two do not mingle well at all sorry as heck to see this happen Kevin

I assumed the Tamiya Rattle cans  (I was told they are  laquars  but for kits)   and Acrylic  would have been ok,   I was told and read  to be careful  spraying  Tamiya  rattle can  clear coat laquars over decals  as they can  carck them if to much is sprayed  in one go.

OC.

If I decide to  re paint the rear section  - any thoughts on prepping the surface as I dont have any solutions for taking the paint back,   would it work  just fine wet and drying  just to flatten the decs back  so fresh paint  Tamiya rattle laquar cans   can go over the top?

OC.

8 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Well that confirms what caused it, too much heat catalyzed the acrylic before it could cure....

 

I'm sorry brother.... she was beautiful...... she will be again this is only a setback....

 

 

Gutted  as I got the wings close to perfect.

OC.

I have just this minute had a got  on the tail, I re - applied the X35  by wide brush  I worked it in well but smoothly  and started to see the cloudyness  smoothout  and show the dark Black underneath  and same in the decal (that is damaged from rubbing)    But,  after a  few minutes letting it dry on its own  the  cloudyness  is coming back  only difference is its a gloss  cloudyness  not flat.

OC.

Thanks EG,   I will try  on the tail  first  as its a controled area  Its Tamiya  X35   Semi Gloss  Clear   it a bit on the thick side  but I have no  way  apart from distilled water  to  dilute it.

OC.

5 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I don't think it was a reaction.... My thinking was to the heat of the hair dryer. I have a suggestion.....

I don't think it will hurt it at this point....

Say on the rudder where it is discolored the worst?  Try coating it again, only this time allow it to dry on it's own.... 

 

My mind says it cured too fast not allowing the material to cure from the inside out. the heat created a skin over the top which didn't allow the insides to completely degass.. That causes the skin formed to cloud up.... My hope is that the clouding is only surface and a reapplication will smooth out the problem.... Try it on a small area and see if it works....

 

I'm just making a suggestion based upon educated guess at this point I don't know if it will work, but it's worth a try....

 

the only other option is a strip and repaint....

Thank you EG,   the problem is  the sponge I used  has scratched the paintwork now  (I tried wetting it to see if it would clean up  but no good)   I think the paintwork is no good now.

But thank you for your thoughts mate.

OC.