Old Collingwood

Just now, mtaylor said:

Humidity maybe?   

Shouln't have been any  - was indoors  no heating on  and about  18deg  I keep telling myself  "should have just sprayed the Tamiya rattle can  flat  over it  and not tried to  even up the gloss coat first, perhaps you can not apply acrylic  over the top of  Tamiya rattle cans   as they are laquar  and not acrylic.

To try to rescue it would mean trying to get a smooth surface  then re masking  the entire rear section from the fuselage joining section,  meaning  fresh black  and on the tail/rudder, fresh camo  on the top,   I have found in the box  and alternative  large code with side roundel  and  registration code, but no spare tail decals  (that would have to be left blanc.

Just the thought of  having to re do it again  - a third time   - this kit is becoming a real knitmare.

OC.

OC.

5 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Not liking that OC.  Other than somehow removing the paint and starting over and finding decals I have no idea how to fix this disaster.  

Dont understand why it happened  reaction between  tamiya  rattle can  and acrylic?

Still keep looking at it with diss-belief.

OC.

Think I have Wrecked it,     I  decided to apply the  Tamiya Acrylic  Semi Gloss  top coat  from a Bottle  by brush,   I brushed it on as well as I could, when covered I used the hairdryer  and the result   A Cloudy Mess   just Horendous.

So I thought as its Acrylic  it should wipe off  using soapy water and a sponge   - "Wrong  Wrong Idea"

Dont know what I am gonna do now,    even if I could re paint the whole things  (so dont want to have to do all that again)   I dont have any replacement  decals.

Disspaointed  dont cut it to be honest.

OC.

4 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I think it's coming out beautiful brother, but then I'm kinda partial to camo on great planes...

Thank you  EG.

OC.

More progress  today  - my building has a pattern  - you can tell waht the weather is like by what time I spend at the table,    anyway  more progress on mossie,     I carried on attaching the various decals  on the fuselage  including the  bomb drop count  and  grin reaper,   I then put a first coat of micro sol, and put it aside,    then it was time to have a llok at the wing and stabs that had been sprayed  - I gently removed the paper/blue tak  masks  and gave them a wipe down with soapy water, then I  gave then a gentle rub over with  fine wet and dry  (as I have been trying to age the paintwork slightly to show fadded/rubbed areas from use.    I also used my pencil  and worked along some of the panel lines/around obstructions,   the wing still needs the roundel  and other decs.

Here is a few pics showing a dry run with wings attached  not glued o yet.

OC.

36 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

good to see your pressing on OC.....the plane is really coming along nicely     I've run into a lot with decals..........making my own at times shows me more.  yup......some are done in flat and some are glossy.....obvious to most that if a company makes kits......wartime models,  that they should be done in a flat format.  excess film is another problem that some decal makers have remedied.....printing their decals as stand alone and not in a long strip......numbering and lettering.  the excess flashing around decals is yet another......trimming close to the image cleans them up fairly well,  but make sure your using a very sharp pair of scissors.  I don't do it all the time,  but trimming and applying the numbering one piece at a time will save some of the grief.  .....and in the event that they do appear glossier than the surface your applying them to,   flat top coats will take care of them.  

 

gonna look great when Mosi gets her wings   

Thank you for the kind words Denis,   I should have looked into  trimming the decals  with a rule  and blade,   but it occured to me after fitting them,   but its something I will look into if I come across  decs like these again.

OC.

4 hours ago, Kevin said:

looking real nice my friend

 

Thank you so much Kevin,  good wishes to you and the family stay well my friend.

OC.

15 minutes ago, Javlin said:

Mike in away,I use Semi-Gloss enamel by Model Master to seal the paint and it will tone down a gloss paint also then I apply the semi again after the decals are laid then  hit it flat unless it's NM finish.

Thats what I have in jar/pot form  Tamiya Semi Gloss top coat,  I will be brushing it on once all the decs are on, then I will blast over with a couple of coats of Tamiya rattle can  Flat top coat  (after leaving the semi gloss  a  good few days to harden)

OC.

36 minutes ago, Canute said:

Take care of yourself, OC No rush for completion dates. Your Mossie is looking good, mate.

Thank you kindly Ken.

OC.

Another thought  - "Did they put covers over stairway openings during action"   to save  sailors falling  down them at the heat of action?

OC.

26 minutes ago, cog said:

Getting black as good as you did is quite hard, well done

Thank you carl,   I think a combination of  perseverance  and  stubbornness   not to let it beat me,   also  driven by wanting to make my  late farther proud, also not trying to do to much or achieve too much when  dog tired  - but save for better days like yesterday was.

OC.

As Ryland said  - it depends how you want the wood finish to be  (still show the wood grain  - or aim for a smoother finish)   if you look at pics of say HMS Victories   inner bulwarks  they  look like a fairly thick layer/layers  of paint has been applied,   but it really depends how you  feel about the finish  also how thick the paint is inside the tins/jars, if it very thick  you could dilute it say  3/4  paint to 1/4  acrylic thinner  or  distilled water.

Hope this helps mate.

OC.

Hi Mark,    with the planking  it doesn't hurt doing a couple of rows coming from the keel garboard plank thats how I did mine and others do it the same way,    I have been over Vic  possibly about Three times  years ago,  If memory serves  me  the upper gun deck  under the boats  has Two facing  stairs  following the line of the deck  both looking into the middle.

OC.

Superb work EJ,    she has turned out marvelous  a real credit to all the hard work you put into her,     stay well and safe,    look froward to following you next project.

OC.

Truly Amazing,   any thoughts of what you will do with here when finished?    She is Museum Standard    and I am sure many many people would love to see her  (when we are back to some degree  of normal)

OC.

I agree  completely  - this is superb work  of small subjects at a small scale  - not much room for error, they look loverly mate.

OC.

36 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I usually paint a section that will be under the decals with future to create the glossy surface for the decals to adhere, then overcoat them with Testors flat rattle can lacquer for the final finish......

 

Most important is the smooth surface under the decal to prevent silvering, doesn't have to be glossy, but it does have to be smooth. (flat paint doesn't create a smooth surface) The reason most use a gloss coat for decaling is the perfectly smooth surface gloss lacquer produces and it's easy application.... I prefer Future floor wax because it dries thinner than most lacquer overcoats.....

 

It coming out beautiful my friend......

Thank you sincerley EG,   I think as was mentioned earlier  if the decals had been of a higher standard and with a glossy sheen to them, the backing  would have settled down over the shiny paint surface that was also very smooth from buffing for that purpose,  when you look at them on the backing strip  they are deffinatly more flat in  finnish  than shiny like others tend to be.

What I will do  is  put a fourth layer of micro sol  ontop of the large decals  leave over night, put the other smaller ones on (more micro sol on them)   then when the whole fuselage is decalled, I will hand paint a layer of semi gloss  top coat  all over  and put it aside to harden for several days.

Then I will work on the wings and stabs that have been sprayed up today.

OC.

Thank you Diver,   as I explained  somewhere  further back  my farther was an Engineer in the RAF  during the war  his service  knick name as an ERK, he specialized  in airframes and engines, and on base he would do anything from  bench strip downs to engines  and right through  to  light to medium/heavy  airframe work  either on the pan  or in the hangar, all dependent on what was needed  or the condition of aircraft returning from duties.

The mosquito was one of his fave planes to work on  but he also serviced  Spits, Hurricanes, Lancs, Wellies, Shorties, and prior to this he cut his teeth in the FAA  on Seafires  and  Corsairs.

OC.

23 minutes ago, Canute said:

A flat surface will cause the decals to silver. You can spend hours removing it. I think the gloss as a base is OK, but you'll need a top coat to blend them in.

That was my thinking Ken   - top coat  to blend it all in.

OC.

13 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

And OC, I should have mentioned that your build is looking really sweet.  That paint scheme is really sharp.

 

Thanks mike,   I am wondering the same thing with the decals, I am hoping  that by first  painting on a layer of semi gless top coat (as I have a jar of this for hand painting)   then after a few days  spraying  the tamiya rattle can  flat  top coat  will  bring it all  to the same finish.

OC.

Just now, Javlin said:

It's all part of the curve OC 8 out of 10 times they are a Glossy backing just thinking of the Spits out there.

I dont rate these revell  ones that highly  dont think they are cartograpgh  ones, have a lot of edging to them  - in hindsight  I should have trimmed them.

OC.

Right  last  major spray work on the  mossie  -  masked up  wing and stabs  ready for rattle can green,    after  I took the parts out into the back patio  and sprayed away  then put them  in my box,     went on ok I think.

Pic of the masked up parts prior to  spraying.

OC.

6 minutes ago, Javlin said:

All looks good OC but something for future builds.The surface of the plane was over glossed to sheen of your decals hence the flat look to the decal backing shows.The idea is to make the two surfaces match before the decals are applied to hide the backing film just food for thought all looks Very Good though. kevin

Thanks for the advice Kevin, my first  work using decals with setting producs,  I  polished the  fuselage as I thought  the advice is to put them down on a gloss / shiny surface?   guess it doesn't help with the decs  being a flat finish  not shiny.

OC.

More progress with the decals -  I put a few layers of micro sol over the tail, then today I brushed over a coat of semi gloss top coat just to seal them down,   next was the serial  this went down ok,   then the large one piece  fuselage decal,  this was a little more trouble-some  even with a coat of  micro sol  you can clearly see the decal paper  between the letters  - this might settle down with a coat of semi gloss top coat.

The decal is still wet  from the micro sol.

OC.

I so get you bro  with head aches these kits can cause  - its not us   we do our best   - kit manu  companies  please learn  - you are dealing with grown ups not children - get your  stuff sorted please.

OC.