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Posts posted by Old Collingwood
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Looking forward to more update Denis - keep em coming mate.
OC.
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6 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:
your off to a very nice start OC
cockpit looks really nice! I do agree........quite a few planes listed for this kit.....the decal sheet must be huge!!!
Yep, can build possibly every SHAR from the decal sheet.
OC.
- Egilman, popeye the sailor, Canute and 2 others
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Evening all, I got round to de-masking the IX today - it didn't turn out too bad, the green areas are now ok, as I want to shown a well used version with ware patches and paint fading - I decided to add these areas now, the Grey also needed touching up but first I had to mix up a shade as close to the rattle can Grey as possible (this isn't easy as we know) I reached a shade as close as possible, when this has fully hardened I will buff the finish to get a satin scheen.
OC.
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4 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:
well isn't this an interesting turn of events?!?!?! a dio is a cool idea
thumbs up to whoever did the good turn....very kind! looking super so far OC....
Thank you kindly Denis, hope your doing ok.
OC.
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7 minutes ago, Egilman said:
Looks pretty darned close to me my friend....
Thank you kindly, its Tamiya AS-27 from thier rattle can range have read its very close to EDSG.
OC.
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- popeye the sailor, Egilman, Canute and 3 others
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I.m really impressed with how that has gone - you can see how it has changed and how it has become a really shiny - great stuff bro.
OC.
- Egilman, popeye the sailor, mtaylor and 2 others
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37 minutes ago, Tigerdvr said:
And the smell doesn't leak out of the cupboard?
No, the door on the cupboard does a good enough job to keep the smell inside.
OC.
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6 minutes ago, Tigerdvr said:
A nice job and log, thanks for sharing. Please explain "de-gasing in the cupboard.
Cheers, Harley
Hi Harley, I use Tamiya Laquer Rattle cans for my painting, and during the drying process they give off quite a smell (the term for the his drying is called de-gasing) basically when the smell has gone they are ready to be handled.
OC.
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- mtaylor, Landlubber Mike, Egilman and 7 others
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I agree with Ken bro, your showing the stages step by step - thats a great help.
OC.
- Egilman, Edwardkenway, mtaylor and 3 others
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2 minutes ago, Javlin said:
Thks OC out of all the years I have been building never thought to use bluetack that way for exhaust.
Kevin
I used it purely by chance - what is also good about it - you can shape it like putty using a scalpel blade to get it to fit nice a snug around the exhaust stacks.
OC.
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Respect to you bro for doing these tests - its will be of help not just to your own build but others also.
OC.
- lmagna, Canute, Edwardkenway and 2 others
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Hi all,
Right I finished off the masking and checked it over a few times - then I took it outside and gave it a few coats of RAF Green, its currently in the cupboard with the Seafire de-gasing.
OC.
- Canute, Egilman, Edwardkenway and 1 other
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Hi all,
Right the Dark Sea Grey top coat is on - its currently de-gasing in the cupboard.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, Javlin, mtaylor and 3 others
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I like what you have done - its not easy (I tried it years ago on a Phantom - it didn't turn out too good)👍
OC.
- mtaylor, Canute, Edwardkenway and 1 other
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7 minutes ago, Egilman said:
Kevin, Yeah I checked out Alclad thoroughly before rejecting it, there are easier ways I found out. I also checked out the various metallic paints and bare metal foil, most of which require an airbrush to apply which I don't have... I was looking for an easy way to apply metal finish that works for a rattle can guy..... Easy is always better IMHO... {chuckle}
Ken, I know that for sprayed on metal finishes a perfect High Gloss black finish is the key to the sprayed on bare metal finishes. I'm not doing a spray on finish. and the undercoat can be any shade or grade I want it to be... I have to make a few tests first before I go to apply the finish to find the best base coat. But once I do that I will cover it in detail as I apply it to the model....... What I'm going to do is supposed to be so easy that anyone can do a bare metal finish even if they have never done one before....
The afterburner exhaust on the engine picture above (previous post) is burnt iron over brushed gloss black. I'm going to do it again in steel cause the iron looks nice but it a bit too dark.....
This is going to be a learning experience and experiment for me, I've always wanted to do a BMF and this is going to be either a great success or an abject failure... It's is also a different approach, if it works, I will never shy away from a BMF ever again.... and no one else should either...
Keep at it bro your doing fine it will be super.
OC.
- Edwardkenway, Canute, mtaylor and 2 others
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7 minutes ago, druxey said:
Thank you for that - very interesting pic.
OC.
- popeye the sailor, mtaylor, druxey and 2 others
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1 minute ago, gjdale said:
Glad to see you haven’t given up on this one OC.
Thank you Grant,
No - what I have learned is to be more careful with rolling the Blu Tack into smoother smaller sausage shapes and longer runs, then to be more precise how I place them, also I am pressing them down further than I did before to make sure they have better adhesion with the plane, hopefully this way the lines will be smoother.
OC.
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Hi all, I have kicked this one off again - I have started to re mask by using Blu Tack but making cleaner curves to cover the rough edges.
OC.
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15 minutes ago, Egilman said:
Workin' at it brother, and it's my first NMF as well.......
Gonna need a bit of luck.....
Thanks....
Your doing better than I could do with a silver finish keep up the good work bro.
OC.

F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" by Egilman - Minicraft/Hasegawa - 1/32nd Scale - PLASTIC
in Non-ship/categorised builds
Posted
I get you bro, some flaps have actuation hinges also - that in itself could be a headache as they would be different from the in flight flush versions.
OC.