Jump to content

shipaholic

Members
  • Posts

    517
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by shipaholic

  1. Hi Pat

     

    Here are pics of the badge window on the draughts of Earl of Pembroke before conversion to the Endeavour, and later draught showing same shape but less detail. They clearly show that the window was angled upwards, meaning that the shutters would swing open just like Parkinson sketched them. Those badges in the AL kit are wrong, sorry. I turfed mine when I built the AL and made wood ones the correct shape.

     

    Cheers

    Steve

    post-819-0-87264900-1454918178_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-89914400-1454918323_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-52555300-1454918360_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-37026900-1454918377_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-40621800-1454918402_thumb.jpg

  2. Hi Dave

     

    Nice work, especially at 1:60.

     

    More on the bowsprit: I have a set of books on ships that were published in 1980, well before Marquardt's book and the building of the replica. The books are quite good and obviously written by maritime experts. The Endeavour is depicted in this picture with both the taller mizzen and the longer bowsprit, and it looks like a typical sailing ship.

     

    Cheers

    Steve

    post-819-0-99614500-1454397290_thumb.jpg

  3. Yes Pat I agree with Greg, if they look pretty right leave them. Yours still look a lot better than the chunky pieces of wood I got with my AL Endeavour. Sorry for posting my pics on your build log, I will delete after you see it.

     

    (But if you do want bigger beads try your local Spotlight store they sell lots of different beads for jewellery making)

    post-819-0-50182000-1452583468_thumb.jpg

  4. Pat, Mike

     

    Yeah Nah, thats exactly what I thought too Mike. I have no problem tying the clove hitches, over the years I have become quite adept at tying knots with tweezers. For the ratlines I am using linen thread I got from a sewing shop, its different and thicker than cotton and just the right diameter, it isnt fuzzy and forms nice neat "spliced eyes" by folding it over with a tiny drop of pva glue to hold the end and form an eye. I use the thinner cotton to tie the eye to the shroud and if trimmed close its really neat. I use a precision electronics wire cutter for trimming, brilliant. For all my rigging work and other small stuff I put a small amount of PVA glue into a small tray or stubby lid and use a piece of copper wire to apply a small drop of glue to the article. After a while you form a small mountain of dried glue, when I built my last ship I had a glue mountain about 20 mm high!!

     

    Cheers

    Steve

    post-819-0-37491700-1451901921_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-25459600-1451901936_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-69694000-1451901953_thumb.jpg

  5. Hi Dave

     

    Re the tiller

    Here is a pic of how I set my tiller up, I didn't fit blocks to the tiller like shown in the AOTS, I set it up like the full size replica. I cannot get my rudder to go hard over but I don't think it would foul with the chimney.

    The other pic is from the April 1768 draughts showing the "arch", its also shown on two other draughts so the arch definately exists.

     

    Cheers

    Steve

    post-819-0-52182700-1450944416_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-00833600-1450945066_thumb.jpg

  6. Nice work Dave, I did the same thing two different style pumps for the reason you stated. Actually the original pumps are shown on the draughts done before the refit, and their position is shown on the deck plans. In the photo you can see the pumps on a ship model from the same period as Endeavour, they look similar to the ones on the draughts.

    post-819-0-06254300-1449880930_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-21657900-1449880982.jpg

    post-819-0-44750400-1449881617.jpg

  7. Haha yes Paul I did exactly the same thing, when I was a teenager I spent a couple of weeks building a free flight glider. First flight I towed it up like a kite using a fishing line. It got into a thermal and just kept going up up and away, never saw it again despite chasing after it in a car with my dad.

     

    Anyway heres a pic of the ship, ready to fit the ratlines

    post-819-0-36617100-1449995439_thumb.jpg

  8. Thanks clogger

     

    I chose the colour scheme for a couple of reasons. I wanted my Endeavour to look like like an 18th century Admiralty model, hence the fairly light shade of the side planks and no white bottom. I also studied lots of old paintings of ships of this period in the 18th century. Marquardt In the AOTS book states that the bottom was covered in "brown stuff" not painted with white lead, so in that respect painting the bottom of the hull would be wrong anyway.

    A lot of Endeavour builders try to make them look like the full size replica vessel, but I am not. Its the builder's choice.

     

    For filler on the first planks I used spakfilla, I sanded the first planks fairly agressively (thats what theyre for) so I only needed to use filler where there were depressions. See pics below.

     

    Cheers

    Steve

    post-819-0-61720000-1449559479_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-64227600-1449559601_thumb.jpg

  9. Thanks Mike

    I wondered why you hadn't posted in a while. I used to make those plastic aeroplane models, and ships, even rockets and a lunar module when I was a kid, yeah the painting is the hardest part. That led me into the flying planes, building balsa wood planes and crashing them a lot. Then I built a couple of larger plastic ship models, the Revell USS Consitution, and the Revell Cutty Sark. I still have the Constitution. My mum still has the small scale plastic ships I built as a kid on her wall unit -theres a Mayflower, Bounty, Constitution and Victory.

    Cheers

    Steve

  10. Its been a few weeks since I did anything, but I managed to get a few hours in this weekend. Finished doing the mizzen catharpins and futtock shrouds then I blackened the rest of the shrouds. I used flat black enamel diluted with turpentine to make it wick through the rope better and not be too black so it looks nore like real tarred rope

    post-819-0-67187200-1449391255_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-85164900-1449391282_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-27047500-1449391307_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-41896000-1449391336_thumb.jpg

    post-819-0-83229000-1449391355_thumb.jpg

  11. Hi Chris

    As Paul said the Endeavour is a hard hull to plank because of the boxy shape. If you look at my build log on page 1 and 3 you will see that I needed to use a lot of stealers and tapered planks. The top layer planks are thin so they don't like curving laterally, therefore I just let them lay how they best could on the darker lower planks.

    For the sides above the main wale I wanted to simulate the upwards curve of planks on a real ship and it was a real task, when you try to curve them laterally they want to kink and buckle and it's hard to keep them flat against the hull until the glue sets. I had to use lots of clamps to keep the planks from buckling, fitting one plank at a time then waiting for the glue to set.

    Cheers

    Steve

  12. I have built the AL Endeavour and am currently building the partwork equivalent of the Occre. The AL was twenty years ago so the kit has changed a bit. The Occre is bigger in size but the wood and a lot of the fittings are poor quality. If you value the look of nice walnut then the preference is the AL, if you want to paint the model then the Occre may be better.

    Cheers

    Steve

×
×
  • Create New...