shipaholic

Beautiful mate. Well done and love the case.

The Jeers

I always intended to do the Jeers like they are on the Endeavour Replica, with single blocks, because that made sense for a small vessel of 300 tonnes. But I still had a niggle in the back of my mind whether that was right because the AOTS has two sets of double blocks. Today I found the answer in Steel's book "Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship"

Quote:

"JEARS, in merchant-ships, and small ships in the navy, have two single blocks lashed on each side the mast-head, as above, and another, the same size, in the middle of the yard. The tye, which connects with these blocks, reeves through one of the blocks at the mast-head, then through the block on the yard, and afterwards through the block on the other side the mast-head. In the lower ends of the tye is spliced a double-block, which is connected by its fall to a treble-block, that hooks to an eye-bolt in the deck, close to the mast, on each side. By this the power of the tackles below is communicated to the tye, which, connecting with the block upon the yard, easily sways it up, or lowers it down."

Another case of the AOTS being wrong

A bit of spare time over the Easter break to work on the ship. Standing rigging completed yesterday with the last of the ratlines done. Bowsprit all fitted out now. Today I fitted the shroud cleats and some cleats on the rail stanchions. All ready to get stuck into the running rigging now.

An exercise in scale comparison

Artsy shot. I think that getting the scale of everything right, including rigging sizes, gives a more realistic appearance

Thanks Mike, good to see you back into it. I have been very slow on my build, I don't get to it very often, too much other stuff to do.

Dashi, I don't know either way on the gaff. I have just followed the AOTS for all my masts and yards, because it was easy to photocopy the drawings and enlarge them to the correct scale.

I have mostly finished the standing rigging, except for some ratlines on the fore and mizzen topmast shrouds. I have started ading all the footropes and various blocks to the yards, starting at the bowsprit.

Cheers

I haven't seen that draught before. Can you post more sections of it please? or send the image in a PM if you don't want to post in on here

Hello Mark

Is this the draught you refer to different to this one?

This one is the original draught showing how she was as the Earl of Pembroke, with the proposed alterations. The companion in front of the helm was removed at the refit before Cook's voyage. I didn't know there was another with the writing you describe. I'm eager to see it

Cheers

Steve

Welcome back Mike, I was just thinking about you, wondering what happened to your build

Continuing on in bits and pieces when I have time. Today I made the parral and fitted the spritsail topsail yard, the first running rigging being the spritsail topsail halyard and I had a crack at making my first rope coil at the belaying pin.

A bit more work today, finished off the footropes on the spritsail yard and finished fitting the fore topmast stays

Hi Mark

Thanks.

The nail marks in the planks were done using a 6B pencil, just position it on the plank, press and rotate. Practice on a scrap to get good at it, and keep the pencil sharp.

Cheers

Steve

I haven't posted on here for a while but I have been plugging away doing bits and pieces when time permits.

I have been working on the rigging and have almost finished the topmast standing rigging.

This week a little diversion, I bought a ships wheel kit from Syren. Its the correct size and looks much better than the metal one I had there. Great kit from Chuck - everything goes together so precisely. First pic is the metal wheel I replaced.

Here is his website

http://karl-heinz-marquardt.com/

Cheers

Hi Dave

Yes they are burton pendants, the bloocks would be hooked to them.

The two blocks between the topmast shrouds are called sister blocks, for the topsail lifts. The AOTS has long stropped blocks hanging from the masthead

Hi Dave

I followed the AOTS and My mast tackles are a little lower than the yard arms. The yards will sit just below the top woolding. Be aware that the topmost tackles in the AOTS have a block, but most likely had a thimble for a block to hook into, according to several other sources.

cheers

Steve

Not a silly question Karl. I used water based paint. French Blue from Admiralty Paints by Jokita. I got it from an online Hobby Store here in Australia.

You shouldn't have any problems gluing things on oil paint especially if you use CA

The stand is a rough one I made out of mdf just to hold the ship during construction. I will make a proper stand when I'm finished, probably like the small supports I made for my first Endeavour in this pic

Thanks for answering that Greg

Thanks Mike and Michael. Yes soldering is very tricky and takes a bit of practice, yes the hardest part is holding very small pieces together whilst soldering. One trick is to pin the parts onto a sacrificial piece of wood that will inevitably scorch. If the solder is a bit thick or lumpy I just file off the excess. I have a great little blow torch thats good for small work.

I have been working on the topmast shrouds recently. I used two single blocks to simulate the sister blocks on the shrouds. For the thimbles in the pendants I cut a short piece off thin copper tubing.

Hi Dave 

looking good mate, that longer bowsprit looks right eh?

cheers

Steve

Welcome back Rexy. Beautiful neat planking job. I'd like to spend every weekend on my build but my missus usually has other ideas. 

Cheers 

Steve

Good job Dave but a lot of work, did you see my post on using fabric band-aid material for the meeces?

Hi Steve

I am building this same model, however I am doing a lot of scratch building and have not followed the instructions very much. This is because I am an experienced builder. I have found that although detailed, the instructions aren't very good in places.

I assume that the only deck you have already planked is the lower deck and will not be seen very well, if so just leave it and move on. Cutting the deck planks short as in the instructions in not a very good way to do it, I left most of my planks their original length. The planking pattern in the instructions is also wrong. Do not use contact adhesive, it looks like your planks are sitting up because there is too much glue under them that has partially hardened before you laid the planks . Use white PVA glue. Check out my build log to see the decking pattern I used. A lot of the joins are just drawn on in pencil.

If there is any thing you need to know, just ask, we are here to help each other.

Cheers

Steve