scrubbyj427
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Everything posted by scrubbyj427
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Perhaps you could start with a much wider plank, ( I assume the plank you need is the one traced out in pen?) get it shaped and fit, then sand to the appropriate width/shape? Or you could laminate two or three thin planks and take care to finish them so there are no seams visible. Good luck whichever route you take, the model is looking excellent. -
Thank you, I’m going to have to try this, I’ve always liked this aged look.
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Just outstanding work! I love the blackening/wearing process you use. How do you achieve those results so well? JJ
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Incredible work Oliver. What CAD software are you using?
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Beautiful! I’m glad that you found the batten trick and used it to achieve the proper curvature of the lower moldings between the ports, it makes easy work out of it.. She’s looking great!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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starlight, Don’t be too intimidated by the larger ships it’s completely realistic to complete one as your first., especially with the resources on MSW. I tackled Mantuas San Felipe as my very first wood ship model, that was 20 years ago and I still display it proudly, even though it’s riddled with errors and I’ve since improved over time, but the model kept me interested and motivated to keep going. But it does boil down to what one is comfortable with and are they willing to commit to a project of that size.
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Hi Steve and welcome to MSW! You’re about to dig into a can of worms with this one, you may want to post this topic over here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/24-wood-ship-model-kits/ or just search it out as it’s been covered extensively. I personally haven’t built victory but there are many fine examples here. If I were ever going to build a victory kit I’d look at the Caldercraft one, but the new Amati release looks to be promising as well in 1:64.
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Chris, I’m curious to know who you are having produce your figures and sculptures? Or did you take the time to learn zbrush and pull all your hair out doing so?
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Amazing. I love how this looks like it was built 250 years ago. Brilliant!
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This is really nice work Chuck, anything I’ve built in the past has been a dismal failure when it comes to this part. A quick eye test has always indicated that the crew will fall through the grates.
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- winchelsea
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I can attest to using the head on a similar sized vessel, in the bow... it’s not fun
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- winchelsea
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Just incredible work!
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Very well done!
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Your cheerful is looking good Fred. The decking and furniture are coming together very well. Now take care of those eyes so you can get back to work!! JJ
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- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I’m speechless. Just amazing work!
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Wow! Awesome work!
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This is just amazing work!
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Wow! Just incredible work! Following with much interest.
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She’s looking great Rusty! Take care of that Covid, I hear model building is the best remedy.
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Looks good Kevin, this is a great project, you don’t see many HMHS Britannic models. I’ve been very tempted to do an Olympic 1911 with this kit. Are you planing to do all the modifications to her promenade deck windows as well as B deck? I wonder if the aftermarket has anything to offer yet. Britannic was quite different from her two sisters
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Redoing Oseberg
scrubbyj427 replied to KrisWood's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
The piece you are tying to make will be almost impossible to cut as a solid at those angles/curve. The best way is to extrude your cutting curve as a surface along a perpendicular line or two lines, for example draw a perpendicular curve at the beginning and end of the cut and extrude the cutting surface “along two curves”, then simply split the open surface into two parts, copy the cutting plane and trim it at each end of the open surfaces to close the part. In regards to cnc cutting or even laser cutting, I think it is possible with a curve, im exploring this same problem with a design I am working on currently. You can see below that like your keel piece, I also had to cut on a curve, all the pieces are perpendicular to the camber. You can see the complexity of the cambered beams that require scarf joints as well as camber. If these beams were flat then it would be easy, however they are not, two options are one, to cut them flat and individually camber/bend each piece... or pre camber the subject wood board and laser cut. My theory is that if the wood to be cut is already curved (cambered deck beams in my case) then perhaps the router or laser can be programmed high enough (at top of camber/curve) to cut, yet not too high to miss the bottom of the curve, then what you are trying to accomplish is possible. I hope that made some sense...
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