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mij

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Everything posted by mij

  1. A larger version of the straight and curve files would be very useful. mij
  2. Thanks for your support Gentleman. Hopefully the timber will be cut and milled over this weekend. mij
  3. Thanks for your idea Dan, but do like the colour of natural wood, like Cherry. mij
  4. I`m using a piece of Cherry 49" x 12" x 2" for the frames, which has to be cut on a bandsaw, as I don`t own a large bench saw. There will be about 40 lengths 2" x 7/16" then each piece will be milled down to the right thickness, which does take a long time. But if you enjoy your hobby, does time matter. I know what the wife thinks. mij
  5. I`m not happy with the Tulip wood I`m using to build H.M.S Sussex, the Tulip is a bit soft and has no depth. So I`ve put what I`ve done so far to one side and will start again using Cherry that has more depth. It`s a 2 to 3 year project, and I believe you must be happy with what you are doing to get the best out of yourself. mij
  6. I`ve been building model ships and using power tools on them for a very long time now, and I believe if you fill confidant in yourself, you must give it a try, or your skill level stay as they are. Thanks for the nice comment. mij
  7. This is the 1st stage of fairing the outside and inside of the hull using a long neck grinder. This is a fabulous tool to use, but a word of CAUTION, this tool can ruin your model if your not careful. mij
  8. Hi all I`ve cut my timber now for over 20 years, mainley fruit woods. The logs are cut to about 3 foot in length and are then cut on my bandsaw 2in thick, and are stacked with 1/4in wood in between each stack so the air can flow in between the stacks and I do not touch that wood for at least 5 years. mij
  9. Hi Jim She looks great, lovely build. mij current build HMS Sussex 1693
  10. Hi Dan Over the pond, a 125 ml bottle of Copydex cost £2.54 ($1.57) and a 250 ml £4.63 (2.86). mij
  11. Hi Dan A very small dab of Coptdex is put on the top and bottom of the top and floor timbers just to hold them onto the paper template while the 1st futtock is glued on. when the Titebond has set, the frame can be peeled away from the paper template and the Copydex can be rubbed off with your finger. As for the Proxxon long neck tool, the Wife ask me what I wanted for my Birthday, and that is what I picked. I will let you know how I get on with it. mij
  12. Started to build up the frames. The first picture is the full frame drawn on paper with the floor timber and the top timber tacked to the paper using Copydex. This picture shows the 1st futtock glued to the floor timber and the top timber using Titebond and held in position with 1bl weights. This picture shows the complete frame, slightly over size for fairing.
  13. It`s a Proxxon LWS Long Neck Angle Grinder (Ref: 28547) mij
  14. Hi Brian It only came yesterday, but I used it on a piece of scrap wood and you can do a lot with it. I`ve got other pads and cutters to go with it. mij
  15. After fitting 8 full foreward frames, I decided that I was not happy with my build, I built the frames oversize and I was to fair them inside and out as Gilbert McArole done on his build. I used Titebond for all the gluing, so I put my build in a bucket of water to release the glue. It came apart with the use of a pallet knife between the frames, I will have to re-cut 8 more floor timber, because I had to chisel them out of the deadwood (I did say to myself, mind your fingers, I`ve now got a plaster on my index finge on my left hand). I will now fair the frames as I fit them, which is the way I mormally build my models and I am much happier with. First picture of my re-build. These are 2 of my new Proxxon toys
  16. Could not do without one, used all the time. mij
  17. Yes they are great tools for model makers and if you look after them they will last a long time. My latest gift to myself is a Proxxon OZI 220/E Multi tool (Delta sander) which I will use to fair the frames. mij
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