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Sailor1234567890
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Everything posted by Sailor1234567890
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One day I'd like to scratch build a large Cutty Sark. I need to practice first. A smaller vessel, less rigging etc. I've built a few plastic kits of a number of different ships. Cutty Sark, Constitution, some old "Spanish Galleon" when I was a really young kid….. I think a simple kit would be a good place to make the foray into wood. I have always liked the story of Hornblower escaping down the Loir river and absconding with Witch of Endor. I suspect she'd make a great first wooden model. The problem is, she's fictitious. I'd like to know if anyone knows of a reasonably simple wood kit of a generic kit of a 10 gun cutter that I could bash into the Witch. Or is there a kit of the fictitious ship out there somewhere? -
I don't recall seeing any of those but I didn't get all that close to other ships all that often. Wasn't really paying attention to that and didn't know to look.
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Best of luck with the medical emergency. Hope it's not too serious. Get back to model building and get yourself that camera.
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Is that Ariel hull planked in Hornbeam then? This hull is starting to haunt me. I see it in threads here and there and can find nothing about the build. Sudomekh..... where are you? Tell me more about this model. She's beautiful and I want to know more about her.
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My point exactly jud. Fake the coil out ready for running but even then only if the line is about to be used. If the ship is at sea, the place for line is coiled on a pin somewhere. Easily accessible, no locking hitches and ready to drop on deck capsized (upside down so the running part is coming off the top of the coil, not from beneath it). Flat coils or cheesed lines are purely decorative and serve no practical purpose. Everything in a ship must be practical. Beauty will follow. Take the clipper ship for example.
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Sounds like a great build. Look forward to seeing the pics to follow.
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Cool. I remember the booms on both ships I sailed in were made up of round pipes triangulated. Is S.S Stadacona's like that as well or is it angle?
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The problem with cheesed coils as you're showing there Nick are that first of all, the coil will never stay put at sea. Since the model is clearly not sailing, no sails, obviously static, this shouldn't be a problem. The other issue is that a cheesed line like that takes for ever to dry and leaves a wet spot on deck while it does so. This is bad for the deck. Yes, teak should be sluiced down regularly but keeping a damp spot on deck all the time is bad for it. Rot is virtually guaranteed to start showing up under the place where the coils are kept. I'd never cheese down a line for those reasons. It's time consuming, often imparts a twist into the line so it can't run free through a block or fairlead and to my mind is plain unseamanlike. That being said, there are many professional navies that cheese and point every line. That's they're business. My boats... never.
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Does anyone know if a composite hull such as Cutty Sark would have had has ever been modeled? Plank on frame of a composite clipper would involve much more skill I would assume. Has anyone seen a source for model sized angle steel that could be used to do this? How would one go about it? Enquiring minds just want to know. Maybe once Ed finishes his Young America.....
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Looking good. I like that cutout idea. Looks great.
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Nenad, If you feel you have a poor understanding of nautical terms, just ask me. I LOVE nautical terminology. As a naval officer I'm a stickler for it. Odds are I can help. If I don't know off the top of my head, I am sure I can find out pretty quickly with my library and google. Plus I love doing that sort of thing.
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Yes, I should have noticed, Australia. I'm in Canada so we have a bit of a temperature difference. Disregard my last then.
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Have you any shots with more of the hawser you made? Looks cool.
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Silver Soldering Tools
Sailor1234567890 replied to bundybear1981's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Always was curious about this silver solder thing…. Something I'll have to look into if I'm going to scratch build something. -
That is a small eye right there. WOW. Impressive.
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I find warming it up thins it considerably and allows you to get it to run better. Keep in mind that changes the pot life though. I usually sit my cans of a and b in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes to warm them up. My epoxy work has all been full scale though, not model scale.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Sweet find. -
I don't think many folks still build masts like that anymore. It's material intensive and good spar wood isn't cheap. I helped my brother build spars for his boat and I intend on building them for my boat using what's called a bridsmouth construction. If you google birdsmouth mast building you'll find something about it. Uses much less wood than a solid mast, is equaly strong and significantly lighter. All important things in a sailing vessel no matter her size.
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Real spars are made much as amateur said. An adz is used to square the tree. Next, the taper is marked on the top face. An adz is again used to taper it. Once the taper is made on both sides, it is rolled onto it's side and the taper once again marked and cut on the other two faces. Now you have a square log with both ends tapered. A special tool called a sparmaker's gauge (highly technical tool here) is used to mark these things evenly the whole length of the yard. (mast, boom, gaff, spinnaker pole etc. Even oars could be made this way, any round pole type object) http://www.onboardwithmarkcorke.com/.a/6a010536216f64970b016300b8845c970d-popup The spar is then 8 sided. Another gauge of pretty much the same construction will mark for 16 siding of the spar. Only the biggest of spars need to be 32 sided before being made round with planes by eye. Odd how they first square a log before returning it to it's round shape but that's how it was done. http://www.onboardwithmarkcorke.com/.a/6a010536216f64970b016761ae4f0c970b-popup
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Schooners carried a number of different sails in that position, depending on weather, what their course was in relation to the wind and even what kind of schooner they were. Stays'ls, fisherman's stays'l, Gollywobblers..... Some were designed to be lowered then raised on the opposite tack. Others were even more odd in that a man was required aloft in order to pass the tack over the stay in question. It all depends on what kind of sail you're going to portray. This of course changes how the sheets would be rigged. Hope that helps.
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I don't just look in here, I might be considered to stalk this one.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Looking great. -
Awesome. Looks really good. Can't wait to see her rig. That's going to be one heckuva model.
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Not really all that complex. The wheel turns the shaft in the middle. The shaft is threaded with a left hand thread on one and and a right hand thread on the other end. The "lugs" are threaded to match, one each. when the wheel is turned in one direction, the lugs move toward each other and in the other direction away from each other. They force those little slide mechanizms to push and pull on the rudder head at the same time thereby turning the rudder. There were variations on this, some used two threaded rods.
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Trying to add a side view that shows the angle of the wheel and the gear as well as the emergency steering tiller. I managed to load two pictures but the third one I can't for the life of me figure out what I did.... Oh well,here's a link to the page with those pics on it. http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?165347-Quadrant
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