Beef Wellington

Well here you are!  Happy New Year Sjors to you and Anja.  It seems you are already at the bottom of page 3, but looks like still plenty to go.  A nice change in subject matter, curious how these modern ships go together.

Looking good Kevin.

Looking good Kevin.

Good evening everyone,
 
im still here, although compared to a couple of years ago, my post contribution towards the site has dropped considerably, for which i am sorry but unable to do much about, i so miss the banter i used to get involved in, and getting involved in other people builds,  
 
anyway the main mast is complete with the exception of the stun booms but that is complete as per the Caldercraft plans, im sure there is more when i compare it to the Longbridge plans, the spars on the mizzen have been secured to the mast, and hopefully rigged by the end of Jan
 

Short update and more.
 
If you're visiting you are probably wonder where had I gone and what have I been up to?
 
Well I am back on my build, have been for weeks.  I can proudly say it no longer bothers me to remove frames.  It used to tear at my heart and soul.  Lord knows how many times I've put them on and taken them off in the last few weeks.  I do not give it a second thought anymore.
I have gotten frames installed past the location where I last stopped before summer.  To recap, I had taken them all off back to the Forward Fashion Pieces, and then I swung my hand over the model and snapped off one of the two forward fashion pieces.  It has been remade and installed and it is all now looking good with good alignment.  After too many removals and re-installations my CDO (OCD for others) is satisfied.  The plan is that I will be putting all frames in (sanding to shape when the aft cant and fore cant frames are installed and then again when those between are in) then marking off the gun ports, then removing frames individually, cutting the gun ports and notches for the cills, and finally replacing them as I go along.  It will be a long process as I have many interests and diversions and so do not seem to advance as quickly as other modellers.  I will only post when I've something substantial or worthy to look at (or am stumped and need advise) so do not think I've gone for good if you don't see a progress report for awhile.  Building and installing frames is repetitive work.
 
Meanwhile I have been lucky enough to have had an opportunity to review all but ten of the 150 issues of the Model Shipwright Magazine (1972 - 2008) and have scanned numerous articles, tips and tricks, etc. that caught my fancy.  I will be getting a few more next month.
From these I got the idea of a hardwood cutting (sawing/chiselling board).  So Yesterday I made one.  This inspired me to make a holding setup block for my protractor to free up my hand when setting the adjustable bed on my sander.  I had tried numerous methods from clamps to different style protractors but the one in the photo below is my favourite and now I can have one hand on the Allen Key and the other holding the bed.
I also attached one photo of my build table as of this morning.
 
Before Christmas I had built a 1:12 scale 9 pound naval cannon (posted on the forum).  The cannon and balls were 3D printed for free at the local library.  After several attempts they got something I could use but it was in two halves (Breech/Muzzle) and I had to 2 part epoxy glue it together.  I found the insignia difficult to see through the Plexiglas case so I had increased the size and finally coloured (painted) it to highlight so it would stand out.  I have since purchased a 3D printer and have printed a one piece cannon (1:12) with the insignia at the proper size.  One fellow at our club at our meeting earlier this month told me how to clean up the plastic a bit and paint the cannon with an acrylic flat black spray paint.  He says the insignia will likely be more noticeable if flat black versus the shiny plastic.  So I will be attempting this.  Meanwhile I've been trying to print it at 1:64 scale.  My first few attempts were a disaster.  Today's attempt was better but not quite there yet.  Too many adjustments to get it right for the small scale and specific type of PLA plastic... the learning curve.  The picture below shows my one piece 1:12 print along with the printer attempting the 1:64 in the background.
 
I apologise for the long story but you may not see another post for awhile.

Anchor hawse-hole and stiffener.

Finished rudder section . There is a color difference because Hull is not oiled yet.
I also added Fish plate.

Cumberland finished long ago and during this time another model was born. All this time of my silence I have been finishing another imperial yacht Queen Victoria. Here is a photo of my finished work on this yacht.

And its time to drill the keel and get the model mounted before doing any more finishing, just in case I have to make surgery to mount it. luckily, it mounted just fine on the workboard.

2019, the beginning of the construction inside the model ship.
 
First part,   planks to support the deck beams, very easy to position; the height in reference with the gun port openings  is the same everywhere.
Followed by 7 inner  frames. 
Still other parts to do before to fix everything.

Anja was asking where the pictures are.....
I think I gonna be old 😂
So here are the pictures.
On the first you see the bulb in shape at one side.
The other one has to be done of course.
Then the planking and filling.
Now it is time for primer.....sanding...filling.....primer etc etc.
 
Sjors
 
 

Hi Jim, just a thought, I wonder if you were to go with the 'yellower' initial colour, it would fit in better to my eye.  You could try doing the spots in relief with a drill bit, and highlighting with a slightly darker colour which I think would be a little subtler.  All artistic opinion of course.  Looks great in any event.

Making rigging progress.
 
Will have more details once I get back from the dentist.  But here is what the longboat looks like today.
 
Just have the bowsprit to install and some running rigging.  Almost there.
 
Gaff was rigged first...then it was time for the shrouds followed by the backstays.  Most of the lines were attached prior to placing this on the model.
 

 


 
Deadeys and shrouds are hooked to the straps.  So they were prepared ahead of time.  Including the straps and hooks for the backstays.
 

Finally the forestay...
 


Note how the straps were bent to fit around the molding.  

The shrouds, backstays and forestay were served but only where they are seized around the mast.  The area served extends about 1" below the where it was seized.   This is an optional detail.  You dont have to do this.  But it does look good.

 
Chuck

Post 59
Assembling the gun Carriages
I did assemble one gun earlier in the build for the purposes of gun port fit, but this is a multi stage and repetitive assembly process  and I decided I should make a start.
To recap...

4325
I had already made a simple jig to hold the axles.
The axles are rounded at each end to take the Trucks before fitting in the jig for the attachment of the transom on the front axle, and the Bolster on the rear axle.

4322
One point to note is that the Transom above the front axle is not vertical but should lean back slightly.
I used some 0.7mmø wire, chemically blackened to represent the iron connecting bar which ties the side brackets and supports the carriage bed.

4331
This is not a quick process, and becomes rather tiresome, but at least not as tiresome as having to make the carriages from scratch.
Removing the lazer burn and rounding the axles is heavy on time and patience, and using a jig for assembly is absolutely necessary.
I decided to construct the carriages before painting and decided on a Red Ochre scheme. Initially I thought about leaving the trucks natural, but to my eye, and as Chuck also found, they didn't look good, so they also had the red ochre treatment.
 
Once the basic assembly is completed there is still a lot to do; ring bolts and eyebolts, capsquares, truck keys, and bolts.
For the carriage ring bolts I used Amati 2mm brass rings which are pretty much true to scale.
For the eye bolts or hoops I also used fine Amati eyebolts, set slightly into the carriages.
For the bolts I also used Amati 10mm fine brass pins. These have slightly domed heads of less than 1mm ø and stems of 0.5mm.
Once I had assembled five carriages I went on to fully complete one example.

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Still some cleaning up to do, the trucks are not glued to the axles.
Drilling the 16 holes to take the various fittings needs to be done carefully, and it is a fiddly little job cutting the bolts and eyebolts to size.

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The eyebolts for the side tackles are set well into the side of the carriage.

5336
I added Truck keys to retain the trucks on their axles.  
They were made using 0.5mmø pin stems flattened at one end These were then chemically blackened after trimming.
0.60mmø holes were drilled thro' the axles to take the key.

5317

5338
Only another eleven carriages to go, and then there's the  Carronades, I think I could be some time.
 
B.E.
10/01/2019
 

Thanks Thomas and Rusty,  I surely am glad there's only 12 guns on Cheerful, even so they are big enough to warrant full detailing and all are exposed to full view.
Post 60
Completing the carriages.
Work proceeds on the carriage assembly line.
Making the fittings is a time consuming exercise, the fittings are small and take every opportunity to  wing off into the ether never to be seen again. Regular crawling session around the carpet is part of this process.

5368
The fittings required for each carriage consists of:
6 pins to represent the bolts.
4 eyebolts ( tackle attachment hoops)
2 ringbolts comprising a modified eyebolt  plus ring( Breeching line)
4 truck keys to retain the trucks on the axles.
OK these were not included in the original plans but I like to fit 'em, and at least in this case the trucks were solid and not held together by six bolts.
On completion of the Carronade carriages I  assembled the long gun six pounder equivalents.
I was able to utilise the carronade jig for assembly, but the procedure is effectively the same.
 
So after nine days, which felt like twice the time, the carriages are completed bar a bit of fettlin'.

5461
Even so there are still things to do once the barrels are fitted:
2 capsquares to retain the carronade trunnions
2 capsquare hinges ( modified eyebolts)
1 capsquare locking pin plus retaining chain.
 I added these on my 1:64 scale Pegasus guns, so at 1:48 scale it should be easier.

5464
On this shot the truck keys are evident, made from the fine  brass pin stems flattened at one end.
The Breeching line ring bolts are only temporarily in place for the purpose of the photo.
 
At this point  I do a deck fit to check how the quoins may affect the barrel line along the hull.

5468

5475
It seems that in the normal position the quoins are a tad fat to allow the barrel to sit horizontally thro' the port.

5469

5477
For the quoin handles I passed on trying to make them from wood.

5482(2)
Fortunately Amati 5mm brass belaying pins fit the bill perfectly.

5487

5491

5492
I will now put the ordnance aside for a while to concentrate on completing other fittings.
 
B.E.
20/01/2019
 
 

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.
 
Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.
 
Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.



cheers
 
Pat

Well this is it.
 
The BARGE is complete and on it's permanent base. For my purposes as I've said there will be no flags, sweeps or internal decorations.
 
Thanks to everyone for checking in.
 
On to the next project ............................................
 
 
 

The coppering of both sides is now finished and the copper is being polished. I use Proxxon nylon-fleece brushes to clean and brass-wire wheel brushes to polish the copper. The untreated polished copper will accumulate a dark natural patina within a few years.
 
For breaks I'm coppering the lower half of the rudder. This itself was a bit reworked: The front edge was angled 30° to both sides to allow the rudder to turn and the back edge was sanded down to 3mm towards its lowest point.
Also the painting of the hull was started with the yellow strakes while I start wondering how I will ever get the puzzle of the quarter galleries together.
 


Copper partly cleaned on port side
 
 


Rudder being coppered

Nice work Stergios, looks great.

Planking from wale to bulwark capping rail completed. Next to divide the lower hull into sections. This has been done with the use of Ribbands. These are laid at the widest part of the hull at exact distances to match full plank widths. Ribband laid round to bow and stern as naturally a possible.

The top ribband shows that the planks will be too narrow at the bow. Some drop planks will be needed in this area.
 

The lower section at the stern indicates a few stealers will be required where as the top section will have tapered planks. I am going to have to do some calculations to see if this is practical.


One think these ribbands did highlight is that bulkhead 8 is slightly too small. You couldn't see it when doing the first planking but obvious now. You can see this by looking at the ribbands to the far right of the above photograph. A good learning here.
The brass screw head you can see is a BA thread pin that is through a nut set into the bulkhead under the planking for final stand mounting.

Hi guys, right now a couple of pics from my recent step by step progress.
Just finished the backstays and I'm ready to proceed with the fastening of the lines to the belaying pins and the respective rope coils.
I feel that section as a more secure step before I turn to the bowstrip, the running rigging and the final yards assembly.
Thank you.

Finished rudder, covered with oil finish...

Looking good Mike, I find making up gratings tedious but somewhat satisfying and glad it worked out for you.  I have to admire your commitment to painting with wood, especially in a kit, and suspect it takes longer to customize satisfactory solution that building from scratch.

Looking good Mike, I find making up gratings tedious but somewhat satisfying and glad it worked out for you.  I have to admire your commitment to painting with wood, especially in a kit, and suspect it takes longer to customize satisfactory solution that building from scratch.

After assembling the build board, I began assembling the keel pieces.  In the photo below you see the three elements..The rising wood on top,  the two keel pieces glued together in the center and the false keel below that.  I darkened the seam between the two keel parts so they would really stand out using a soft pencil.  I had my two screws and bolts ready as well.

I used the screws to help align the layers and glue them together.  Note how I left all the laser char in place until after all the keel parts were glued together.  I also darkened the seam between the keel and false keel.
 

Then the rising wood was added but first I needed to glue the two nuts into the laser cut holes provided for them.  I simply placed a nut on the table and positioned the rising wood over the top of it.  Then I pressed down firmly to push the wood over the nut.  This placed the nut perfectly.  I added a drop of glue around the nuts perimeter to secure it flush with the bottom of the rising wood.  I was careful not to get any glue on the threads of the nut.
Then I glued it to the top of the keel.  After applying some titebond I actually screwed it into position to be aligned.  The middle keel was intentionally left a bit wider because now I will remove the laser char.  There is more char on the thicker keel pieces so I left that thicker so it wouldnt be over sanded in the process.  It cleaned up pretty good.  I was careful not to remove too much.  I applied some wipe on poly afterwards.

All cleaned up and test fit with the screws on the work base which you might notice I made a bit wider in this final version...The bottom of the base uses another piece of laser cut wood to make sure the screws dont stick out to far on top of the rising wood.  There are several supplied to use as spacers if need be.  Then I removed the keel to start on the rabbet.


To make the rabbet I used a laser cut scraper tool designed especially for the job.  See below as it is pretty self explanatory.  Brass strip filed to a point and used to make the rabbet.

Several light passes at first working from the center outward.  Then I cleaned up the rabbet with some sand paper and files.

To finish off the keel, I used some 20 pound black fishing line for the bolts.  I realize these would have been copper but I really dont like that look.  But you guys can substitute if you prefer.   I like them blackened as shown instead.  Next up I will detail how to build the frames.