Beef Wellington

Evening all, some good progress on the pearl today  - firstly I drilled out the holes in the hull, then I applied some glue and fitted the nine lid rope devices,  I then turned the ship around and tied the ropes together that I had fitted before  - just need trimming than painting.
 
OC.

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 
 
The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.
 
The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).
 
The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

 

 

For the last few days it's been too hot to do anything very much- temperatures where I live in Sydney are in the middle 30s C with high humidity, and it's far hotter elsewhere.  Passing our nearby golf course, it is the first time I have seen it completely deserted on a Sunday.  I have done a little work on the ladders which has been quite difficult.  If the steps are even a fraction out of alignment it shows.  Here are two dry-fitted and before two coats of polyurethane.  I have used Tamiya tape as guides for their placement, and the piece of strip across the railings shown in the first photo checks that  the steps are horizontal.
 


 

Here is the US take from FOX NEWS, I'm sure many will find the inaccuracy of the picture of HMS Serapis somewhat amusing 🙂  (spoiler alert...they pictured the 1866 troopship rather than 1779 5th rate)
https://www.msn.com/en-us/video/science/remains-of-us-revolutionary-war-frigate-discovered/vi-BBQOCzj?ocid=spartanntp

 

Love the those deck shots at the bow, really shows off the accuracy of your planking and ties everything together so nicely.  You didn't comment, but in addition to everything else, had to admire the excellent consistent clean profile you achieved on the timberheads.  Did you use some sort of jig for these?  Would be very interested to learn from your approach.

Post 61
Hawse Holes, cables, and Catheads.
At this point there is a lot of inter-related stuff to consider.
 
1) I intend to rig anchor cables, so I need to establish the size.
 
2) I also need to enlarge previously drilled undersized hawse holes at the bow and the hawse holes sizes are relative to the circumference of the anchor cables.
 
3) A check needs to be made that the anchor cables will have a clear run from the hawse around the windlass, and back to the Main Hatch without fouling the Catheads yet to be fitted.
 
Firstly Anchor cables
Calculating anchor cable sizes can be a confusing subject.
 
According to Lees the formula for anchor cable circumference calculation is 0.62 of Mainmast diameter.
 
Peter Goodwin  - The Naval Cutter Alert 1777 gives 11½" as the main cable circumference (1.93mm ø at 1:48 scale)
He also gives the Mainmast ø as 22", which using the Lees formula would give a cable of 13.64" circ. (2.29mm at 1:48 scale)
 
There is another formula  based on the maximum beam of a vessel. - Cable Circumference being ½" for each foot of beam.
Using the Alert figures we have a beam of 25'.11" which would give a cable circumference of 12.95" (2.18mm ø at 1:48 scale)
 
So from a given set of reference figures you do get variances using the different formulas, but in modelling terms the differences are minor, and in practice the dockyards worked to range sizes, and the nearest fit was generally close enough.
 
In relation to Cheerful the mast at the partners (model) is 10mm ø ( x 0.62 (Lees formula)) =  1.97mm ø line.
Using the beam formula; Cheerful, with a beam of 23.5' would give 11.75"circ  also = 1.97mm at 1:48 scale.
 
Having eventually arrived at a scale anchor cable diameter, we can return to the Hawse hole.
*To calculate the hawse hole size:- cable ø ÷9/4 = hawse ø
*Construction and fitting of The English Man of War - Peter Goodwin
 
I used incremental drill sizes to carefully enlarge the Hawse holes ensuring the drill was kept both horizontal and parallel to the keel.
In considering cable sizes on models I don't think that arithmetically calculated scale line sizes are the whole story, Sometimes, 'true scale' doesn't suit the eye or model.
2mm ø line looked a little heavy, particularly bearing in mind that it will have to pass around the windlass three times.
 
I am leaning towards 1.75mm ø line for the anchor cables which equates to a 10.3" circumference, and looks right to my eye.
The calculated hawse ø scales to 3.93mm.
This is pretty much the hawse ø given on the Cheerful plans.
 
The related positions of the Windlass, Bowsprit, Bowsprit step,  catheads, winch, and cables need to be assessed to avoid problems later.

5541
With the cables in place the Cathead positions can be tweaked to avoid any awkward abrasions.
Before I do any further work I attended to the bow pin rack which butts against the Catheads each side.

5544
Bearing in mind that there may be an issue with belay pins where the Bowsprit passes beneath the rack I have held off drilling the holes until later.
 
In making the Catheads I have followed Chuck's lead using 3/16th square boxwood section.

5548
The rebates to fit over the waterway and spirketing on the vertical sections of the Cathead were initially cut on the little mill, but to get the inboard shape to scribe closely to the bulwark took a fair bit of manual work with scalpel and sanding stick. The base needed sanding at an angle to sit flush on the margin plank.

5550
The sheaves for the outer end were cut on the little Proxxon mill using a 1mm bit, and holes were drilled to take the sheave  pins.

5551

5552
Assembling and fitting the Catheads I found a little tricky. 
The Cathead should have something of a stive, angling slightly upwards outboard.

5569
This means that either the vertical section or the inboard tail of the outboard section needs to be angled. I decided to angle the uprights.
Once I had got close to the angle required I glued the upright to the bulwark.

5590
The outboard section was then roughly shaped at the inboard end and glued and pinned, with final sanding done insitu.

5591
The Catheads in their raw state
Here you can see a comparison of 2mm line (Starboard) and 1.75mm line (Port)

5587
I was a little surprised that a supporting bracket below the outboard cathead beam was not present on Cheerful.
 
 
B.E.
25/01/2019
 
 

Those carronade carriages look especially good BE.  The countersinking of the ringbolts is a detail I'd like to replicate when I come to my upper deck armament, curious how you did it?  Also, what are the approximate dimensions - always find it hard to visualize a larger ship at smaller scale compared to smaller ships at larger scale.
 
Can completely relate to the task of completing these, I'm hoping to emerge from the same tunnel myself soon 🙂

Found some time to tinker a bit on that exotic gem 🙂
 
Got a signal gun - one of 6 on the ship for salutes - and one historical barrel. The rest will be windows. The gun is a self made brass one made in my Dremel to give it a slightly conical shape. Also the chainboards with the accurate number and position for the irons is there together with the small port that gives access to the shrouds.
 

 

 

 
A child that only a mom is able to love - or a dafi 😉
 
XXXDAn

Looking great Rob.  You nicely dodged the bullet of having gunport/deadeye conflicts by the look of it.  Agree with you on the walnut, yours looks very similar to mine - at this point I think I almost have the kit parts.  Can't quite tell from the photos but don't forget to place the cavil blocks (for the for brace and the main courses).  I opted to go with a range cleat as I felt the kit parts looked too clunky.
 
Hoping to have a minor update on my side soon...

Looking great Rob.  You nicely dodged the bullet of having gunport/deadeye conflicts by the look of it.  Agree with you on the walnut, yours looks very similar to mine - at this point I think I almost have the kit parts.  Can't quite tell from the photos but don't forget to place the cavil blocks (for the for brace and the main courses).  I opted to go with a range cleat as I felt the kit parts looked too clunky.
 
Hoping to have a minor update on my side soon...

Hi all,
 
Since my last post, I've dry-fitted the skid beams and begun working on the channels. These were drawn out in cad to work out the basic shape based on AOTS and the NMM plan of Ethalion. Interestingly the foremast channel (in AOTS and the Ethalion plans) only has five slots at the rear end compared to the six on the caldercraft kit... I've followed AOTS, and at some point I'll hopefully work out the difference in rigging between kit and AOTS.
 
Anyway - here's a PDF of my channels plan...
 
ChannelsV2.pdf

As I don't have access to 2mm sheet, I laminated 2x6mm guitar stringers to make up the channels. I needed three wide for all but the fore channels which were four wide.
 
The plans were pritt-sticked onto the sheet and then cut out using a small plane, files, and the slots cut undersize with a saw and a file used to make them uniform.
 

A grooved edge was scraped into the channels. Once the chains are in place, I'll use strip to fill the gaps and sand it gentle back to match the profile.
 
Pins were added and the positions marked on the hull. So far, I've dry-fitted the starboard channels.
 
 



I'm pleased with progress so far. It took a few attempts to get the smaller channel aft of the main channel to the right height so that it matched the mizzen channel, but I think we're there now.
 
It wasn't too bad doing this step with the guns installed, but care does have to be taken not to drill too far into the hull when making the holes for the pins. A strip of masking tape round the drill bit did the job wonderfully.
 
Happy building!
 
Rob

Great result with the PE Pat, you really have some fantastic details coming together now.  I can't help but feel this would open up so many opportunities and would love to give it a go myself, combining with the laser cutting.  I really need to figure out some PC drafting software.

The bow section is also done.
The blocks are glues and shaped.
Now a little stern and primer time.
But that will be for next week I think.
Picture time.
 
Sjors
 

Looking good Kevin.

Looking good Kevin.

Well here you are!  Happy New Year Sjors to you and Anja.  It seems you are already at the bottom of page 3, but looks like still plenty to go.  A nice change in subject matter, curious how these modern ships go together.

Looking good Kevin.

Looking good Kevin.

Good evening everyone,
 
im still here, although compared to a couple of years ago, my post contribution towards the site has dropped considerably, for which i am sorry but unable to do much about, i so miss the banter i used to get involved in, and getting involved in other people builds,  
 
anyway the main mast is complete with the exception of the stun booms but that is complete as per the Caldercraft plans, im sure there is more when i compare it to the Longbridge plans, the spars on the mizzen have been secured to the mast, and hopefully rigged by the end of Jan
 

Short update and more.
 
If you're visiting you are probably wonder where had I gone and what have I been up to?
 
Well I am back on my build, have been for weeks.  I can proudly say it no longer bothers me to remove frames.  It used to tear at my heart and soul.  Lord knows how many times I've put them on and taken them off in the last few weeks.  I do not give it a second thought anymore.
I have gotten frames installed past the location where I last stopped before summer.  To recap, I had taken them all off back to the Forward Fashion Pieces, and then I swung my hand over the model and snapped off one of the two forward fashion pieces.  It has been remade and installed and it is all now looking good with good alignment.  After too many removals and re-installations my CDO (OCD for others) is satisfied.  The plan is that I will be putting all frames in (sanding to shape when the aft cant and fore cant frames are installed and then again when those between are in) then marking off the gun ports, then removing frames individually, cutting the gun ports and notches for the cills, and finally replacing them as I go along.  It will be a long process as I have many interests and diversions and so do not seem to advance as quickly as other modellers.  I will only post when I've something substantial or worthy to look at (or am stumped and need advise) so do not think I've gone for good if you don't see a progress report for awhile.  Building and installing frames is repetitive work.
 
Meanwhile I have been lucky enough to have had an opportunity to review all but ten of the 150 issues of the Model Shipwright Magazine (1972 - 2008) and have scanned numerous articles, tips and tricks, etc. that caught my fancy.  I will be getting a few more next month.
From these I got the idea of a hardwood cutting (sawing/chiselling board).  So Yesterday I made one.  This inspired me to make a holding setup block for my protractor to free up my hand when setting the adjustable bed on my sander.  I had tried numerous methods from clamps to different style protractors but the one in the photo below is my favourite and now I can have one hand on the Allen Key and the other holding the bed.
I also attached one photo of my build table as of this morning.
 
Before Christmas I had built a 1:12 scale 9 pound naval cannon (posted on the forum).  The cannon and balls were 3D printed for free at the local library.  After several attempts they got something I could use but it was in two halves (Breech/Muzzle) and I had to 2 part epoxy glue it together.  I found the insignia difficult to see through the Plexiglas case so I had increased the size and finally coloured (painted) it to highlight so it would stand out.  I have since purchased a 3D printer and have printed a one piece cannon (1:12) with the insignia at the proper size.  One fellow at our club at our meeting earlier this month told me how to clean up the plastic a bit and paint the cannon with an acrylic flat black spray paint.  He says the insignia will likely be more noticeable if flat black versus the shiny plastic.  So I will be attempting this.  Meanwhile I've been trying to print it at 1:64 scale.  My first few attempts were a disaster.  Today's attempt was better but not quite there yet.  Too many adjustments to get it right for the small scale and specific type of PLA plastic... the learning curve.  The picture below shows my one piece 1:12 print along with the printer attempting the 1:64 in the background.
 
I apologise for the long story but you may not see another post for awhile.

Anchor hawse-hole and stiffener.

Finished rudder section . There is a color difference because Hull is not oiled yet.
I also added Fish plate.

Cumberland finished long ago and during this time another model was born. All this time of my silence I have been finishing another imperial yacht Queen Victoria. Here is a photo of my finished work on this yacht.

And its time to drill the keel and get the model mounted before doing any more finishing, just in case I have to make surgery to mount it. luckily, it mounted just fine on the workboard.

2019, the beginning of the construction inside the model ship.
 
First part,   planks to support the deck beams, very easy to position; the height in reference with the gun port openings  is the same everywhere.
Followed by 7 inner  frames. 
Still other parts to do before to fix everything.