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themadchemist

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  1. themadchemist
    To Excellence, CHEERS!
  2. themadchemist
    treenails are the best clamps. watch this time lapse and you'll see clamping. the slower videos are much better though
  3. themadchemist
    The edge beveling is a must and requires the most time to fine tune each part of every plank. You want a good contact patch all the way down so that later if you sand to deep you don't sand slits between the planks. I'd typically start at one end and fit it inch by inch. Sand, fit...... Also I used a thicker stirring stick that I squared the edge with a plane and CA'd sandpaper to the face, the edge was left bare so on the attached plank I could sand away any undercut or overcut. As the planks roll around the side they become almost shaped like a parallelogram, if you think end view. If the plank already glued is undercut or overcut, it is easier to sand it square (perpendicular) letting the edge of the sanding stick ride the bulkhead and the flat of the stick sand the plank edge. using it like a sanding block, just a thin one. The sand-paperless edge rides the bulkhead and doesn't effect bulkheads. I found working both edges gave the best results. Having a perpendicular edge to work with made edge beveling the next plank easier. I also used this method to narrow planks in places they had went over the marked bulkheads. Personally I find the slow monotony very relaxing. Its one of the reasons I stopped building the DSotM in Dec and build the longboat. I wanted to plank. I find it quite addictive. When that plank fit perfectly, it is NIRVANA. Planking the canoe, taught me a lot about what NOT to do.
  4. themadchemist
    I probably take too many pictures of the clamping, but have found it useful to go back and see exactly how I did it. One must be inventive and the handmade tools and jigs are typically the best. of all my boat stuff, clamps out number everything in the number of varieties. Getting the right pressure in exactly the right place is the fun part. That would be an interesting thread - pic's of the craziest clamping methods
  5. themadchemist
    I think it was the Bowie mug that made all the difference! ...lets dance.. Perfectly Executed. By Jove I think he's got it. And thank you for the compliments, but honestly everything I know someone else was gracious enough to teach me and I just like seeing others success.
  6. themadchemist
    yes the curvature does change, hence the twist. I think what your doing with the thinning of the skeg region is a good idea. There are places in that region that I had to thin considerably and your idea would give you more sanding room. For some really good analysis on hull shape I suggest reading through Dee Dee's build of Sloop by Dee Dee - Corel - 1:25 Sloup Coquillier / Shell Fish Sloop, Shepherdess from Domrémy - Small. She does an amazing analysis of plank lay on about page three that's really worth the read through. I also recommend her bashing of the Muscongus bay lobster smack by Midwest, using Chapelle as the resource for the major overhauls. link to coquillier http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6802-sloop-by-dee-dee-corel-125-sloup-coquillier-shell-fish-sloop-shepherdess-from-domrémy-small/ link MBLS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4670-muscongus-bay-lobster-smack-by-dee-dee-from-midwest-to-chapelle-124-small/page-1 Now that's one gorgeous hull and an amazing build. BTW she has 2 MBLS builds.
  7. themadchemist
    By "neck" do you mean narrow? If so yes. I found the planks started at the stem a little over 1/2 width, then widen to nearly full width by bulkhead 4ish, then as it passed through the rear belly (the area where the twist occurs) at about the 6th bulkhead the plank narrowed again, then widened again at the stern. There was a lot of work in narrowing them and getting a tight fit, plank against plank, but I found it like mediation. I rarely got more then one plank on a day. I'd have one side wetted and shaping, clamped to the hull as a former as I narrowed and edge beveled the opposite side. My theory behind taking such time was to hopefully emit second planking in future builds and learn how they were really planked, although I used one complete strake rather then shorter planks, you will notice the deck also has no seams or butt joints either, but it does have stripes. Some like the added idea/security that somehow they can cover the 1st planking up with second planking and all is well, but I see 1st planking as my chance to learn and develop my skills to plank. I never pass up an opportunity to learn something the first go round, in the manner it was actually done, but I also can't help but put my artistic side into it with things one would never see in reality. Others have differing philosophy's and that the great thing about this hobby, that everyone is their own captain and can choose how they build their own boat/ship . The theme of my DSotM build may colour outside the lines of reality, but every mark is planned and has purpose and meaning.
  8. themadchemist
    Nice job, and no you can NEVER have too many rubber bands. I like the fat one's they put on veggies, like broccoli and asparagus. Its another reason to eat your veggies, FREE clamps. She looks Great and has a really nice sheer-line, the deck curvature is perfect. If your worried about the glue holding, I added extra underneath along the bulkhead/deck seams with a syringe, just a small bead then wiped with a cotton swab. Its amazing how solid adding the deck makes the structure. I saw John posted while I was typing. The center line is a good idea. I added some decking to mind to get it even. either way you want symmetry.
  9. themadchemist
    Looks Great, John. I miss the days of being able to put her in my lap and work. Once the masts and bowsprit go on, it becomes a completely different model to handle and requires watching how you move it. Did the kit have a 2 piece keel? I think I see a second scarf joint midway? The older kit doesn't, just wondered if you did that or it was like that from the kit. Now come the fun parts. wait, .... its all Funn
  10. themadchemist
    what exactly is a rectangular/square piece on a compound curved surface. mathematically the moon follows a straight line path around the earth, The path is just through a curved region of space-time ...and it really only looks skewed when opened, which it should on that compound surface.
  11. themadchemist
    once you get the deck on, then the sheer plank, which is 3mm below the deck line. I used a full width plank on this that was spiled at the bow. then place the garboard planks (against the keel). Then figure your longest length on the bulkheads, using a string or slip of paper. Divide this longest length by the plank width and that gets the number of planks it will take. That is how many rows I cut from the center of the fan. Then the folded paper fan will shape to the bulkhead. If its not long enough to bridge the gap between planks, fold farther out, too wide, fold closer in. When it fits the gap, hold it down and mark the lines. You need the garboard and sheer planks as zero points.
  12. themadchemist
    I'd say it looks more like a real pilots deck than most, I've always thought some builds are too perfect. The weathered effect looks GREAT. You must have been typing this as I typed the PM. Your right to wait on the stringers also. With your experience with paint washes, you should check out Matti's Vasa. He's an ex-plastic detailer and he tackled a Vasa for his 1st build and ..... just look, if you haven't already. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1815-wasan-1628-by-nazgul-billing-boats-vasa-175/
  13. themadchemist
    I think if you measure it at that reference, you'll find its 5/32 of an inch. My printers down, but I opened the pdf and set it at 100% and with a caliper it measured 5/32'' I typically figure out what bulkhead has the longest length and from that figure how many planks it will take. I then cut the fan with that many rows, the white between the lines represents the planks, it has a V shape then. I then fold it (parallel to the 5/32" reference) so the crease matches the bulkhead length and transfer the marks to the bulkhead. Refolding for each bulkhead as necessary to match the length. Its the fastest way I've found of marking. I also put marks on the stem, this really helped on the dinky longboat for narrowing at the stem. ...and it took me a bit to figure out how the fan was used, it isn't rocket science but its a unique method.....and who hasn't asked questions around here, it's part of the process.
  14. themadchemist
    Even if the nailing is too big, it still looks cool as heck, of course there is a steep price for that added coolness. and I must say, that is some gorgeous pear wood.
  15. themadchemist
    When we can no longer laugh at the small misfortunes of a hobby, the fun is gone...and Hobbies SHOULD ALWAYS be FUN. I remember on my Petersboro canoe build, Midwest recommended wiping the outer surface with CA as a sealer. Seemed a strange idea...but I was new (my 1st)...needless to say I sealed it alright...to my hand I guess that's why skin was created to grow back One nice thing, I didn't have to worry about dropping it.
  16. themadchemist
    maybe I should have worded that "the purposefully and meticulously folded up rig, which appears a mess, but is actually very carefully placed for later raising once in the bottle" wadded up mess was easier to type and I'm lazy I didn't mean to imply how it was, but rather its appearance. I've seen other SIB builds where the ropes are numbered so that once inside, the builder knows the correct sequence to get the rig to stand correctly without binding. It's like magic to me, and like any good magician, SIB builders understand the necessity of sleight of hand and preparation. I'm glad you took that candid shot as it really gives one the sense of the "pucker effect" one must endure at such a stage
  17. themadchemist
    Randy is correct, Dropped planks and stealers aren't just for the model ships, they were used in actual ship construction. I purposefully dropped a plank on my second planking at the bow, just for practice... and on the layer that showed. Even though I was OCD on the 1st planking to have all full strakes, again for the practice of it. There is no right or wrong.... 10 years from now you will still be practicing and learning, such is the vastness of this hobby.
  18. themadchemist
    Nice work Brian, Your WAY ahead of your ability level on the Carmen, or maybe just learning to slow down. You stated "it was a bit of a failure, but taught me some lessons about basswood planking".... Nothing is a failure when you learn, PERIOD! I'm with Alistair, don't be overly hard on yourself, I think she looks Great!
  19. themadchemist
    Its no wonder that wood splinters killed more sailors then lead. Amazing slow-mo. I can not even imagine the fear of living through such battles. The Chaos of battle must have been horrendous. Research like this really helps envision what it must have been like, to a point.
  20. themadchemist
    For me the SIB's seem to require so much more forethought and planning then a normal build. Many may think that the smallness is the worst factor, but it would seem to me that the final entry and raising of the masts, while all the rigging is hanging would be maddening. Excellent job and thanks for stopping mid-insertion for a photo op. For me it is amazing to see that wadded up mess, bloom into the Ogallala. 6 more days until the cap goes on.
  21. themadchemist
    Hey giantdog, Tony (Grimber) is building the old kit so no lower decks there. I think this is where the newer kit may be a bit harder in fitting the deck. The outer deck edges should lay on the reduced bulkheads (at least they are thicker) in the lower deck region, but in the middle there is no support, of course there is not much to support as the deck holes are MUCH larger on the newer kit. Not haven't deal with the newer kit, I can not say with any degree of accuracy as to how difficult maintaining the compound curve is going to be especially around the openings. Tony used an ingenious gluing jig that may help in retaining the deck in place while the glue dries. I attempted preshaping but only created a twist in the deck. Until now the deck is the only place I had to resort to CA glue, but then I didn't have a gluing jig, which I would if doing over. The lower deck bulkheads shouldn't be close to the deck holes though, as they designed it so you can finish the lower deck and have the cabin doors open for display below. This isn't really an option on the older kit as the deck openings are very much smaller. As far as the bulkhead 6, make sure to measure both bulkheads on either side of the bulkhead in question, as a high bulkhead in one place will make the bulkhead to plank appear short on another bulkhead. If 5 or 7 are high (or both) then it will effect 6. Once the deck is on I would draw a pencil centerline down the deck and measure widths at every bulkhead and see how things look. I personally had to add deck to a section that was short and Tony had to add decking to the holes as his deck fit strangely. With the many issues I've seen in the Swift builds, it makes me wonder how many versions there are. Both mine and Tony's is the older design, but his deck definitely fit different then mine and it wasn't me or him, it was the way the deck was cut. My box was stamped 1982 and IIRC his was 1985... Oh the joys of fairing
  22. themadchemist
    If we only had the hours back, that we put into making pieces that did not work, we'd have 1/2 our time back but wouldn't have learned 1/4 as much. Sorry to hear of the issues, they were looking so nice also, I seem to remember a certain builder back several months ago that couldn't bend ebony... until someone helped out. Sometimes it takes another set of eye's and suggestions to lead to the elusive answer. That pear is beautiful, where did you source it from?
  23. themadchemist
    Once done fairing you typically put on the sheer plank, the top one under the bulwarks and the garboard, the one next to the keel. Then use a planking fan to mark how much to thin the planks at each bulkhead. Here is a link to BobF's longboat which does a wonderful job of showing this process. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2
  24. themadchemist
    Popeye and his ladder issues I glad you showed that staple attempt, I think everyone does that type of thing many times, but few show it for others to learn from, Thanks.
  25. themadchemist
    Beautiful stitchery.

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