themadchemist

As an ex-teacher I completely understand the nature of most humans to shy away from learning. And yes, there are too many 1/2 finished Swifts. Had I not found MSW I would most likely have planked as you have and been satisfied with that outcome. For me I see build logs as an important tool that the community provides. Build logs are important for both the builder, so they may "think out loud" so to speak, and the reader (new or experienced) as there can never be too much information. I worried about bring this up, but now feel it helps complete the understanding of the purpose of your log, There are historically accurate ways of building and there are easier methods as demonstrated here. There is no wrong way, as long as the builder is happy and having fun. As you can tell from the Build log of the DSotM, its is a very different type of build and build log. As a mad analytical chemist, I guess that's why I now have a stack of books and GB's of resource material myself and have also taken almost 2 years and am just now rigging. I have watched several Swifts start and finish in the time I've built mine and you'll probably beat me done also. Its good as a builder to be able to choose your own pace and level of detail. That's one of my favorite aspects of the Swift kit is its versatility in the way that its built. I would check out Bob's longboat log (I'm sure you will) as it may help with second planking. I can't wait to see how the second planking goes. BTW, do you plan to set the keel and stem before 2nd planking? It is always interesting to see different methods and sequences. Now, where's the Dew and cookies

Very much deserved! Congratulation Dafi, XXXDAn, DAniel or Daniel, which ever personality is reading this. Your an inspiration to many and to think I use to look down on plastic models and you changed all that ignorant thinking. Now I consider your work some of the best performed in any medium and medium no longer matters as a build is only as good as the builder, not what they use. You've also taught me and I'm sure others with the "No Fear" deconstruction you perform repeatedly. Just when I think its perfect, you deconstruct and it turns out even better than before. But most of all, your willingness to share in your experiences, so that we all may learn with you. To a true Master and Mentor of the art, CHEERS and CONGRAULATIONS!

Hello Tony The one thing you will find as a constant in model ship building is that everyone has a different idea as to how something is to be done. The work you have done has given you an Excellent foundation and shape and as this is double planked that is all that many consider is needed. I differ a bit here. First, PLEASE don't take this as criticism but rather constructive directioning. Where you have cut planks to points to get them to fill the empty spaces (floydian reference ), would never be applied in the building of a real ship or its build, but again this is a simulation..... but for some such as myself I enjoyed planking the unseen 1st planking in the same manner as the 2nd, so that I might learn the method that planking is done in real world applications. Many of the newer kits are single planked so theres only one chance and frankly I found laying the second planking MUCH harder then the 1st and It took me weeks to 1st plank rather then days, but that's my philosophy. I couldn't really tell if you were gluing planks wet of dry, but it's typically best to wet, clamp, let dry, shape/narrow then glue dry. If your pulling the wood into position dry and tacking it, that spring in the wood doesn't completely relax and may at a later date let go. Coating with glue should have helped that, but I glue every plank not just to bulkheads but to the adjacent plank edge as I go, as I feel it makes a much more secure bond. On the second planking I assume you want full runs of planks? A plank should never be narrowed to less than 1/2 its overall width, or at least this is what I was told and have seen in real build videos on You-tube. Something that might help you in getting the lay of the planks is marking the bulkheads using a planking fan. I did this in both 1st and 2nd planking. The best tutorial in a build log on this process is in BobF's longboat build. It can be found here. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2 Again, I'm not criticizing but rather hoping that this helps you grow as a builder in your understanding of how thing were actually done. The Swift has MANY aspects that just can't be done, due to kit design, such as the missing keel rabbet and one must do what they can. Some builders also could care less about how 1st planking goes on, as its covered. I see it as a learning opportunity to learn and practice technique. I hated 2nd planking so bad that I purchased single planking for my San Francisco build and will probably never double plank again, while other prefer double planking as it gives a second chance. I do feel you should have a solid foundation and with a bit more sanding and tweaking it will make a Very nice Pilot. As a first attempt you've done marvelous. My 1st, a canoe, had a nasty bulge on bottom, rather than the flat bottom it should have had. Had I know then what I know now, I could have easily fixed it, but that's how we learn, by experience.

Nice work Brian, I've found using a planking fan to mark the bulkheads before starting helps greatly in the narrowing of the planks consistently. BobF has a wonderful demo in his build log starting here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2

Such Ingenuity, Dave. from the trombone, to the 6 pack, clothes pin clamping rack. Just amazing. And the finished base looks Spectacular, VERY realistic.

Not just the newspaper, you can have it sent to your phone if you download their app. It's good everyday, meaning you can use it 7 times a week as when you use it, you get another, but only 1 per day and its only good on 1 item. We always use the 40% off on the most expensive item, if it isn't already on sale. JoAnn Fabrics has the same with 20% off the whole order or 30% off one item. Its another handy place for rigging supplies.

I had a cow, but it was for DINNER with mushrooms and zucchini. I understand the Lyme issue problems unfortunately. That last storm pressure front caused a bloom. Nice save Jesse. There really isn't nothing quite like that feeling in your gut when that happens. Luckily only you and us will know. I know what you mean with the CA, seems once it doesn't work, it then won't stick to it's self. I bought some fast acting epoxy for just such occasions, the hour stuff wasn't cutting it on unclampable stuff, so I found some 5 minute. Luckily I haven't needed it. YET!

for the concave shape use a dowel rod with sandpaper glued on one end. cheap and easy to make, and you can make any diameter or grit you want.

I agree that grey wash gives the deck that worked on feel. Nice Progress! Have you considered using washes on the painted areas also? This is going to be another interesting build to watch as the fine detail work gets going. ...and as and "anal"ytical chemist, 38 items doesn't seem enough for a list

just exactly What determines a useless effort in model building. Once that award gets engraved, it shouldn't look nice on the mantle.... wasn't that puny

Fast and beautiful as always, I especially like the ratlines against the sky and the starboard bow photos. Autumn has arrived, and the WASAN is much further along. Fantastic Art Matti

Hey Tony, There is no place where the curvature on the back of the stern block is listed or described, at least not in my older kit. Use a plank to find just how much needs removed. You can never go wrong if you fair so that the plank lays correctly. So add to sand and file, file and sand....... sand and file, check with a plank, file and sand.... To give you an idea of how much is removed, check giantdog's log, in post #38 I posted some pictures of my swift at that point. Giantdog is building the newer kit, which has a back transom bulkhead, so that must have been seen as an issue and taken care of when the kit was redesigned. For the old kit though, go with what the planking lay tells you, instinct is the best judge. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8345-swift-1805-by-giantdog-artesania-latina/page-3 BTW, thanks for posting that book, I'm always searching for resource material. On planes, Harbor freight has a brass and walnut 3 piece set for around $10 and the block plane is great, once you sharpen and adjust the blade. I used mind a lot in planking. If you have a local HF you can save S&H charges, that's also a great place to pick up clamps of all types. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-micro-brass-plane-set-97545.html It looks like your building a great foundation for a really nice pilot boat. Great Work

So your double folding them, Nice extra tip. Thanks, I just may know how to make sails by the time your done. Popjack stated once that he had patterns for the Swift's sails, but with my extended transom and lengthened bowsprit I'm afraid I may have to do my own patterns.

If I recall, I saw you using that in rigging. It appears it may be even more usable on sails, stitching so close to the end, I wondered about stitches pulling and fraying the edge... so that answers a big question for me. Thanks for posting that Jesse.

The trees that grow in the wind are always the strongest. You have had a very windy time as does anyone building a Victory. You don't lack the skill, but rather the confidence, but that is how it should feel when you are pushing the envelope. Don't let your dreams become imagined nightmares, without reason. Your work on Vicky is proof enough that your ready for whatever you choose. ...and indecision is a natural part of this hobby, as there is just so much to chose from when thinking of future builds.

Thanks Jesse, I'm looking forward to future photos on that topic.

Looking very nice Brian. your symmetry at the stem is Really Very Nice. Have a safe trip and may be you'll arrive home with goodies galore. It's sad that someone is selling everything, I hope its not due to the worst cause. As a disabled person, Tammy and I have talked as to what to do in case of my demise with all of my "toys". I hope that isn't the case for him, but they are finding a good home and for me that is important.

Wow, all I have to say is... you have REALLY FAT FINGERS Those macro shots of you threading the lanyards really give one a good judgment of the scale... and this is 1:50. It makes me wonder what I'm thinking wanting to build a 1:90 SF. The riggings filling out and looking Outstanding. Beautiful work my friend. It's good to see the overhead full deck shot, It is an amazing pic that really show off your art. Nice work on the sails also, Take lots of pictures of that process as I am clueless on where to even begin and the DSotM WILL have sails.

Its looking good Tony. While your fairing, I would recommend adding a block between bulkheads 1 and 2, up close to the keel. The garboard plank (the one next to the keel) if run all the way up to the first bulkhead, it will cause crowding in the bow, which means dropping a plank or over narrowing of the planks. General rule is not to narrow more then 1/2 the width. The garboard should start in between those bulkheads, so adding balsa gives a place for a more secure glue point. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. sometime a pictures worth many words, you can see were the garboard starts. I can put up a side shot if that helps. I realize my build log is a jungle to navigate, I'm not called mad for nothing. Otherwise, I think you have a solid game plan. I did want to mention your unique method for shaping the planks. I've read a lot of build logs and have never seen that method. It's amazing what wood with submit to, when worked correctly. Where did you find that trick, its a good one.

Wow, that's a lot of asymmetry, but Mine had asymmetry also. Shaving that off I'd say was the right thing to do. I just held a steel rule up to the photo on screen of the trimmed stern shot and they measure correct (equal)....and to my eye it looks more symmetrical. Plus looking at that last pic, it doesn't appear that the trim job got into the last bulkhead at all. I think you got a bad deck. The holes seem to scream something wasn't right with the deck from AL to begin with and they do expect you to know how to fair everything without telling you how. I'm my opinion, and I'm still relatively new at this, I think what you did was correct and will have no negative effect on planking, as a matter of fact it should have a POSITIVE effect, as now it has symmetry. Great Job!

I figured it was a leather cap to keep water from wicking into the shroud end and causing rope swelling. In that second picture Its hard to tell. I saved the large photo to the desktop and expanded it but it pixelates a lot, but it appears that the shrouds a served all the way up. HUM, ...also on the lower shroud where they wrap the deadeye and are seized, it appears wormed, but not parceled or served. double HUM. Wonderful photos Matti. You definitely have an advantage with those photos to build from.

I answer to themadchemist but also tmc or just plain Keith, which will save on typing. Just don't call me late for supper Actually one of the best things one can do is sleep on an idea. Any time I try and push through anything I haven't thought out well, it seems I just make a mess I have to re-fix once I wake up the next day. Rushing seems to slow things down.

On that last picture of the shroud... is that a cap of some sort on the end of the shroud rope end? That's a great detailed picture of the deadeye wrap and seizing and the ratlines look smaller then the seizing lines. The shroud also appears served above the last seizing, did it rub the railing on the way up? Do you have a pic further up the shroud Matti, I'm curious how far up the serving goes....

I agree with Tony, if you don't replace the bulkhead, at least mark it so you have a guideline to shoot for, but I'd trust the lay of the plank most of all, but it never hurts to have a idea of where the stop should be.