Nirvana
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Okay, repair work commenced and turned out that the stem piece was broken where the keel meets up, didn't see until I had the stem fixed without checking with the false and true keel. Bummer, new stem is to be manufactured.
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I have tears in my eyes, after being away from home for about a week (work), I came home to this How this happened I don't know, I always making sure the door is closed and secured, the admiral feels bad. Office/workshop door was open when I got home. But now I am back to square one. Don't like it at all as I were very happy with the results to date. Next is to call ModelExpo for replacement items....... sigh And start again. Didn't want this at all. :(
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Not more experienced than you, This should have been done before putting the bulkheads in place..... I guess.. , which I didn't do with my longboat
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Floyd my friend, A vise that is not true? Maybe depending on where you buy it from I presume. Smaller scale (1:4) shouldn't show it but in larger scale (1:3) it would. Just for an example....... My false keel and keel is straight as an arrow, maybe I was just lucky. Bulkhead will be fixed e.i Mike in Sweden with false deck. This to create a straight hull before planking. And to create a stronger holding while fairing the bulkheads. :D
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Mike, how did attach the "false deck" since it has to removed before the bulkhead inserts are to be removed. Sent from my S5
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Mike, yes I have the same odd spacing in that sequence. The distance between 0-A is greater than A-B. Whole whopping 1mm!
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According to my digital caliper distance between bulkhead A-0-1 is 8.22mm -0- 7.12mm at the false keel, 8.67mm -0- 7.06mm at top. After measuring the distance between each bulkhead I noticed none are even at center-line. Maybe I should proceed without being to concerned.
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After having all the bulkhead into the false keel, I saw something disturbing in the profile and that was how the bulkheads was leaning towards each other. This is very prominent and obvious after bulkhead B and forward. I have no play (adjustment) at all. It's solid but not glued. The distance between each bulkhead are all even. Having a feeling the cuts from the material from MS is not accurate. Has anyone experienced the same? Don't know how to proceed as planking is next.
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Since eye sighting can be difficult and a camera "doesn't lie", I thought why not use this to it's advantage. Using the screen on the camera and uploading to any image editing software I found it easy to see where adjustments were needed. The only bulkhead glued in place is 0. Still this one is adjustable. Using a cloth pin at the stern, the line up started to come out good. I am so happy to work this kit, just look at the bulkheads smiley face
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Mike, As I were stationed in Karlskrona for the initial time of my military service we had free entrance to the museum, this was back in mid 80s and I don't know how much that has changed. But if you are making a trip it's definitely worth a visit. Sending you the link to their website. http://www.marinmuseum.se/
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Mike, I guess I have to ask for a rain check regarding grill/beer. I will let you know when I am back in Sweden. Grew up in Åkersberga (NorthEast) if you are familiar with the surroundings. You take the train (Roslagsbanan) from Östra Station. About 40 minutes ride. I would suggest you to make a contact National Museum of Maritime (sjöhistoriska museet), as they have annual modelship builders day in the summer. inviting clubs, they should have somewhat of an eye of such. Another place to visit is Eskader (hobbystore). The owner knows about clubs as well. But hold to your wallet as a visit at Eskader might be expensive. Knowing by experience. As for the longboat, I beveled the false keel the way Mike-Stuntflyer described. It's thin, it's delicate but I think it was worthwhile.
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Mike, Stupid question, where in Sweden are you located? That scarf looks very nice. Enjoying following your build log. Tack så mycket!
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Mike, That's one the major concern. Making the false keel. But since I have the material I could make it a try. What can I loose? Some high quality material from Jeff? Could be worth the shot.
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Since none of the bulkhead has been "attached" making a new false keel and new true stem and keel would be fairly easy as I have the material. Will see what sanding and "truing" will do.
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I have found out that the false keel provided from MS does break at the stem. I have been very sensitive / delicate with sanding but still the stem has broken at two places. Getting to the point to pondering of replacing the false keel with material from HobbyMills which I already have. Any input an experience in the stem issue???? Or am I alone? Thinking about to using 3x 1/32 sheet boxwood to make this part (false keel ) ..... Or should I proceed from the point where I am at and continue? As for the keel and stem piece out of boxwood, no problems at all!!!!
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Gel coat is like a shiny separate layer, this is the one that goes dull over the years when attended to. "Understanding the materials Polyester resin laminates achieve their highest strength when the bonds between layers of fiberglass are chemical or primary bonds as opposed to mechanical or secondary bonds. The manufacturing process for polyester boats has been developed so that a chemical bond exists between the gelcoat and the laminate. When a polyester boat is built, polyester gelcoat is first sprayed onto the mold surface. The first layer of the laminate is then applied to gelcoat, which has not completely cured. The two layers eventually cure together with a chemical bond between them. Applying gelcoat to a cured laminate relies on a mechanical bond. Because of the difference in curing chemistry, it is not possible to achieve a chemical bond between epoxy and polyester gelcoat. We developed some tests, to determine whether or not the mechanical bonds achieved between gelcoat and properly prepared, cured epoxy were strong enough to achieve a durable repair."
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During the evening I have proceeded with beveling the false keel. This require magnifier with light in order to get the 1/32" thickness . It's amazing that a built like this is so much more fascinating and get ones attention to details than others..... Could it be, because of Chuck? The instructions take me down to the very basic. Can't see me not succeeding with USF Confederacy. Thank you Chuck!
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This is to show my man made keel and stem vs. MS kit material.
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Floyd, it is the box wood stem piece, if you look at the piece it doesn't have the holes drilled yet. Stem piece and keel notch to notch
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I followed Chucks' advice and rotated the template, after negotiating the material for some hours I think the picture tells about the outcome. Yes, I am pleased. I know there will be some extra finishing sanding.
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Second coating of PolyWipeOn, by using this contraption I am able to do both sides at the same time. Did it outside to minimize the odor of the liquid.
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