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Everything posted by Nirvana
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The rudder is now shaped and so is the tiller. I predrilled the whole for the tiller and then used a flat pointed file to open up for the insert.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
- Finished
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I am cursing myself, because I have lost plan one along with a box with material for the longboat. Have no idea where it all is, so I am working from plan two and the instructions.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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Thank you Steve for the nice word. Yes, the oars turned out much better after another sanding and another two layers of white. The inboard is all freehand painted, I found it trickier to mask than paint directly. I looked at other long boats online of various styles and decided to go with a "three pair setup" six rowers. Going with eight made it look cramped. I also decided to exclude the windlass and I have a surprise up in my sleeve for the long boat. So, the oarlocks are in place and painted.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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Karl, I like to welcome you to MSW, seems like you are off to a great start, detailing. You certainly know what you are doing. Looking good!
- 164 replies
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- Model Shipways
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Chris, First of all a Warm There is quite a few members of MSW living close by you. My son lives in Lynnwood, and a friend of mine in Woodenville. Take a look at this topic where the bearding line and rabbet is easily explained.
- 54 replies
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- glad tidings
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Hurray! Well, no saw dust but painting instead. And I am back in the right enviroment and in front of the longboat. I dediced to go with white blades on the oars. The oars look so smooth prior painting but obvious not. I think a light touch of 600 grit and another two coats and the fuzziness will be gone.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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Dave, That 3d print looks real good, once I will be building Bluenose I have to paint.
- 242 replies
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- bluenose
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Steve, Those freeze looks sharp. Great job done!
- 165 replies
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Dave, In SketchUp, if you add on with more segments for the curvature, i.en from 16 to 24 you will get even a smoother 3d print. I have used SketchUp since the first release in 2001. I will never trade this program for any other CAD program, but I am not into 3d printing. Looking forward to seeing the outcome of the print.
- 242 replies
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- bluenose
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What is your preferred work height?
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mike, What is the size of your work area? Not included in price. -
What is your preferred work height?
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A website called Back Designs. Can't afford an adjustable which would had been the optimal, so I thinking having two stations with two different heights. -
What is your preferred work height?
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Here is information I found on a website: Guess these values can be used for fixed stations as well. I found that the countertop height of 36" is perfect for me when standing, while 30" when sitting. Depending on the chair. Then again adding a machine on the top and suddenly your work height has changed. Maybe I have to do some mock ups before going the whole way out. Height for Sitting Adjustable Work Surfaces Minimum: 25” - 30”; Range = 5” Optimal: 22” - 33”; Range = 11” Height for Standing Adjustable Work Surfaces Minimum: 38” - 42”; Range = 4” Optimal: 35” - 47”; Range = 12” Height for Sit-to-stand Adjustable Work Surfaces Minimum: 26” - 40”; Range = 15" Optimal: 22” - 47”; Range = 25" -
There is a great free software for resizing batches of pictures at one and the same time. Try this one, it's been around for a long time. FastStone Picture Resizer. Go to the Cnet.com, then open the dropbox download and search for the program. Now the size i.e 1600x1200 doesn't mean that you will use the whole 2Mb of picture weight. It all depends on what kind of setting you used with your camera from start. Just my two cents,
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We are working on our ships in various environments. So, what'should your preference of comfortable working height?
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BigCreekDad, If you want to add the simulated bolts as mentioned in several of the inputs by drilling and filling. I would recommend to make a template, using sewing needles that has been inserted into something hard, approximate three boards wide. You are now wondering why. Going three boards wide, you will be able to center nails easily. Glue the needles. Now using a hammer, tap in the area you want to be marked and then drill. This way you will have an even marking and on the plus side the drill will not wander of the target. Just my two cents
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I also have two Dremels, one heavy-duty (corded) but also the cordless 8050. Using Flexshaft with the mini-chuck just like on the cordless. No problem on my side, got a heck of a deal on the 8050 at WalMart. If nobody knew this since before but here is some history about Dremel. The tools were originally developed by Albert J. Dremel, who founded the Dremel Company in 1932 in Racine, Wisconsin. In 1993, the company was purchased by Robert Bosch GmbH, and today it is a division of the Robert Bosch Tool Corporation located in Mount Prospect, Illinois.
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Steve, That looks so nice. Well done! Question: Don you have a good time with the build? I found it both challenging and fun, and I am not done yet.
- 165 replies
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Don't thank me, it's a tip from our own Chuck. Did you download the new freezes from the locked instructions of Chuck's. Turned out that many provided in the kits were to small.
- 165 replies
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Very nice detailing!
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Mr. Pucko Bending plywood is so tough, and many times resulting with broken piece instead. Has happened to me as well. And now we have to wait another four weeks before seeing the next step. At least you are not rushing this build.
- 305 replies
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- deagostini
- vasa
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TigerSteve, Fixate the freezer with hairspray before handling them, this to avoid smudging them.
- 165 replies
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