Ulises Victoria

Welcome, Derek. Hope you enjoy this hobby as much as most of us here!!!

If there is a kit I am anxiously awaiting, is this one!!!

On 7/19/2017 at 0:32 PM, Ponto said:

... that looks fairly impressive! Is there an English version for the site offering more information?

 

JP

 

 

I was checking the site. This ship is available only for Italian residents. grrrrr

I am thinking about buying either the Oliver Cromwell or the Alfred. Still undecided. So I'm trying to get as much information as possible to help me make up my mind.

What happened to this build???

One trick that has helped my with the re-adjustment of lines before final setting is (this works mostly on belaying pins) I pass the thread through the hole of the belaying pin and then use the pin to "plug" the thread in the hole. This way it is just a matter of loosing the pin with a tweezers and the line becomes loose so it can be re-adjusted later. Hope this makes sense.

59 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

With some effort, and if you're really unsure as to amount of wood, etc. like I was, give some thought to what I did.   Order the plans and then using a scanner or copier, scale them to the size you need.  I went up from 1:96 to 1:64 due to space limitations.  Then I ordered the wood for the Confederacy from the Lumberyard.  Yes... I had to get more wood due to mistakes and thus, rebuilds, but.. it got me going.  

 

The biggest stopping block I can see at this point to scratch building is "fear".  Fear that you can't do it or fear that you'll make a mess of it.  I scrapped my first try but the second build of the same model is coming along nicely.  

 

The only other issue is the tools.  There's some here using simple hand tools to cut and shape the wood.  Others of us have a full shop or a partial shop. 

 

I suggest taking the leap of faith and be prepared to surprise yourself.  It's very rewarding in the emotional sense to scratch build a ship you want to build instead of being at the mercy of the kit makers.

Absolutely agree with you. I just hope I have enough life, steady hands and good eyes to do all I want to. Have some stuff in my stash already and I still want more.

Good thing I will have a proper workshop and time to work on more than a project at a time pretty soon

20 hours ago, Techsan said:

So the consensus is that "loom-a-line" ratline jigs are worthless?

Not entirely. It's brass pins can be used in a variety of ways. I use them in holes in a board to help bending planks to certain shapes, for example... but yes... to make shrouds and ratlines... completely useless!

Hello Daniel. 

Welcome!!! You will find the friendliest and positive-thinking bunch of shipmodelers of all categories here.

I hope you enjoy your visit and wish you a long stay!

Ulises

Thanks to all for your input. Appreciate the time you take to answer. Actually a POF build is a long time in the future project. Have some others to finish before, but, on the other hand, I am not getting any younger. Fortunately, once I move to my new home, I will have the space and time to work on two projects at a time.  

Wow... this project looks very very interesting. But the page doesn't show any means for subscribing.

I will try to contact them by email.

Much obliged, Chuck!

I saw a couple of interesting kits: The Alfred and the Oliver Cromwell.

I don't understand the scale measurements they give: 1/4 and 1/8. What do they mean?

It is not clear to me exactly what do you get when purchasing these kits.

Ok... it's a model of a chebeq named Le Requin. It costs over 1000 dlls. If this is a rip-off or pirated kit... where is the legit original?

In another site I saw one of those chinese banned kits being exactly that. That's why I included the word "legit" in my question.

Hello all...

Is there a true and legit Plank on Frame kit available in the market? Preferably a large ship like a 3 masted square rigged ship.

Not plans, but the whole kit.

Thanks in advance

Ulises

59 minutes ago, toms10 said:

Hi Jim,

Looking goooood.  Before you know it, you will be tying the clove hitch knots for the shrouds in your sleep..... for days and days.

Tom

Yup!!! I once tried to make regular square knots when tying some ratlines, and found it more difficult than the clove hitches. I have a rough estimate of 10,000 clove hitches tied in my shipbuilding career!!!

Hello Syd, and welcome to the best shipbuilding forum in the world. You will find people from all over the globe here.

Greetings from Monterrey, Mexico

Ulises

A big welcome back Sjors. It is always a pleasure to see you builds. The feeling of redoing something and getting a better results is great, ain't it??

Best regards.

Hello and welcome!

You ask a tough question to answer. It is one of those questions in which if you get 10 answers, they might be all different, as every one has their own opinion.

Ask yourself this:

By looking at the box photos, or build logs in this forum, of all the above, which one do I like the most?

Is it within my budget?

Then go for it!!!!

When I saw a picture of my present build, The Royal Louis I fell in love with it, but it was out of my budget. One day I saw the kit at a 75% discount and I just knew it had to be mine. I was finally able to get it. Patience and perseverance are keys in this our beloved hobby, in more ways than one!

Best regards

Ulises

Hello Michael. As far as I can see, there is a line that will be seen in the joints at this moment.

What kind of putty/filler are you using?

I have to say making those joints disappear has to be one of the toughest jobs a modeler can attempt. You have to make the joints not seen and at the same time, not to erase the wood grain marks.

You may try to dilute your putty a bit so it can fill the joints more easy.

You have the right idea when scratching the putty residue to replicate the imprinted wood on the plastic, only I'm sorry to tell you, that's one hell of a job to accomplish right!

In a worst case scenario, I would put a very thin and narrow piece of plastic all along the seams trying to simulate a reinforcement that most likely was not in the real thing. I most of the time prefer to do something that is out of reality but that looks good, instead of let something to be seen and that I just don't feel comfortable with. Not many people will notice that, I can assure you, and we...

well... we will forgive you!

Hope this helps and wish you the best of luck!

Just remember this: Paint paints!  

Paint doesn't work as a filler or sealer or mask...

In many cases, paint just accentuates what you are trying to hide.

Best regards

Ulises

Planks in real ships were not always a "fixed" length. It varied from ship to ship and was dependent mostly on the length of available timbers. I wouldn't be surprised to find different lengths of planks in the same ship. That said, I always use 120mm length planks in my planking jobs, especially on decks. 120 mm is a very approximate length of planks at almost any scale. Besides, 120 can be divided exactly by 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 which facilitates some calculations when needed.

My 2 cents

I can not offer you but a welcome to our site, Cliff,  since I am not familiar with the subject you are asking about. In fact I got here expecting to see some answers to your question, since I am interested in doing some POF build some time. I am 10 years your senior... I may have less time than you to do all what I want to do!

Ulises

One month! Good Lord! That was fast!!!

Mil felicidades! Very Very Good job. Looks fantastic. I knew you could do it.

Best wishes

Ulises