Ulises Victoria

Ooooohhhhh I thought at first this was a book, and was taking my CC out of my wallet when I realized it isn't.

This looks extremely interesting!!!!

Hello Michael. Really good looking rigging here mate.

Congrats

Ulises

The only stupid question is the one that is not asked.

By all means keep asking. That is how most of us learned, anyway.

When I started building ships there was nothing like the internet and much less forums like this.

Consider yourself lucky.

Cheers!

Hello Jim.

Try to find Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson, or the more expensive The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lees

They will provide you with specific details on how to fix those lines in your model.

It seems to me that since you are tackling a very advanced method of building (scratch building) it is taken for granted that you should already know those things.

Cheers.

18 minutes ago, MESSIS said:

Sorry guys.... but why not scotch whisky? After all the  British Royal Navy was and is in naval history of major importance! (am not british subj. but love a good scotch, single malt mmmmmm or blended)

 

Cheers all

Christos

Indeed. I love Canadian Crown Royal whisky, but it is like a reward after a job well done, not as a tool! 

In my last Revell Constitution I replaced wood deadeyes and rope lanyards, rope shrouds and ratlines and fabric furled sails. She sits proudly in my brother in law's office.

A lot of rigging missing, Ray. Is it finished?

Thanks John.

I am using Domanoff's machine. I used to use a machine made by a friend of mine. This one worked on the principle that if you twist the threads long enough, they will start winding by themselves. This principle makes a very tight rope. In this machine I could put 2 3 4 5 6 threads to make thicker rope and it always came very tight and even. I love that machine. The only problem is that it only makes fixed lengths of rope, depending on how far you have both ends of the machine from each other. My dream was always to have a continuous-feed machine to make ropes as long as the thread you can put in the spools. Now I have 2 (Domanoff's and Byrnes') and still long for the quality of rope the first machine did. Guess you can't have everything.

I have tried to make multiple-thread rope in my Domanoff with very poor results. Dissimilar tension in the threads seems to be the problem.

Thanks for your input!

Thanks all and especially Dee Dee. Placed a test order at Thread Needle Street.

Wefalck: Yes I have some of those threads already. Will do some test soon. Thank you.

Hello all ropewalk users... where do you buy the threads in different diameters for use in your RW machines?

I have googled and searched Amazon for some time now and came with nothing, or at least, very confusing stuff.

I am looking for threads of different diameters (and at least two colors, for standing and running rigging), to make different diameters of rope, obviously.

On older machines I used to twist 2, 3, 4, etc strands of thread to make thicker ropes, but this approach seems not to work very well in my Domanoff machine.

Thank you in advance for your input.

Ulises

Hey Ray... why don't you just change the blade in your old knife? It looks sturdier and easier to handle than the new one because of its thickness.

Do you plan to finish the second planking down to the keel before tackling the putty and scalpel job?

Ok Ray. Then please keep posting your work.

Best regards,

Hello Ray. I am sorry to say this, but no putty and scalpel work will fix what I am seeing.

Your approach should be the opposite: Apply your best craftsmanship first, do the best job you can first and avoid that "hopefully some putty and scalpel work will fix that" approach, which in most cases won't work, and that it shouldn't be necessary if a proper job is done in the first place. Putty and scalpel should only be used to correct "minor" issues, or mistakes. No kit is perfect, and that is where the modeler's ingenuity comes into play.

It seems to me you are working too fast and careless. Take a look at my signature and learn from it.  

All this in your best interest.

Regards,

Looking good Sjors! Coming along really nice. I love it!

Do you plan to paint the hull? What colors?

hmmmm do you mean rubbing strakes?

Hello mates and thanks for your comments.

Sjors and Anja. Thanks for the wows  

Nick: I'd appreciate either one

Michael: Thanks a lot

AllLostAtSea: I am glad my work motivates you. Go ahead and take that Endeavour off the closet

Arthur: Thank you. Yeah, a lot of cannons.  I expected you discover one little mistake I left uncorrected on purpose. You are not paying attention.  There is one missing coil at the right of the third cannon in the 5th photo. Can be spotted on photos 2 and 4 also. Shame on you!  Just kidding, my friend. Your comments are ALWAYS very welcome.  (Coil is added now. Don't know why I skipped it!)

Thanks all for your visit. Your words are very motivating. !

Hard to pick just 3.

Knife, ruler and pencil?

Update as of May 19 2017.

Milestone reached! ALL 126 cannons are placed and those which needed it, rigged.

This took me a very long time because some of the triangular cannonball racks went flying from my tweezers and landed in that parallel universe we all know, but never been in.

So I decided I would not go any further until I somehow make some of them.

Here you see some failed attempts and at the bottom 4 pieces satisfactorily made. The far right one is the original. I attempted several methods and finally what worked was using that pink thingie you see in the photo. That is dentist's wax. I managed to make the molds in them and  used 30 min epoxy to fill them. I had to put the pieces in boiling water to get rid of the wax, but finally I managed to make 4 acceptable pieces.

So with that out of the way, I finished placing all cannons on all decks. There are 126 cannons: 70 dummies in the 2 lower rows, of which I placed only 60. I left 5 randomly empty gunports on each side. I plan to put closed gunports on there to break monotony.

Then there are 56 csmaller cannons that went on carriages. Of those, 28 had to be fully rigged, 6 half rigged and 22 with no rigging at all, being these totally hidden under the decks.

There you go... Here the photos and a general view of my ship as of today.

I am going to start working on the gunports. 70 of them if I remember correctly.

Thanks for visiting, mates!!!

That is correct. Those ropes were stowed below the deck in giant coils.

Ray I'm sorry but have to agree with BE.

There is a big depression in the bow, and I think that is caused by the front bulkheads not being pushed down fully into the keel. At least, that is what I see in the very first photo.

The right corner of the bow false deck does not even touch the bulkhead where it is supposed to rest, as well as the corner of the second deck on the opposite side. I have no idea how you are planning to plank these decks.

My suggestion, as BE says, is to start with a simpler kit and work your way to more complicated ones, and study the tutorials about planking a hull.

Believe me... I know about trying a Master's kit as a first project. Total disaster.

Hope this helps you. No mean to be offensive. 

Congratulations Anton!!!

If I ever lay my hands on this kit, this will be the log to follow!

Best regards

Ulises

Photos, photos... even photos of the unboxing are welcome!!!

Ditto . I know this product is used by plastic modelers as a hard shiny finish. I am wondering also what its use may be in wooden ships, that can not be done with wood-specific or designed for products.

Anyway, Amazon sells it.

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494500227&sr=1-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care

Hello Messis.

Paint flat black and apply a VERY VERY LIGHT touch of silver or aluminum paint using DRY BRUSH TECHNIQUE. 

Tha DBT allows you to lay a super light and thin amount of paint that only highlights or accents the raised parts. It works for me.

Rubbing graphite powder works very well also. Remember that in these processes, less is better. A minute amount of whatever you are using goes a long way. 

The most common mistake people do when learning these techniques is "Overdoing it" You see you are getting results and think that by keeping doing it it will get better. WRONG!

Stop right there!

Finally, Sjors!!!

I was just about to finish my bag of popcorn waiting for an update!

Looking good, my friend!

Coming along real nice, Anton... and a gorgeous helper you have there.