Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72

[Keith_W]

Simply gorgeous, Mark. We have the opposite problem (being on the other side of the equator). Weather here is horrible.

[Seventynet]

Beautiful work Mark.

 

Best, Ian

[marktiedens]

Keith - thanks very much..Yes,the weather here has been very nice. However,some big storms on the way here tonight.

 

Ian - thanks very much. 

 

Thanks also to all for hitting the like button .

 

Mark

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Mark

I havta echo everyone's comments........beautiful transom base and the painting is so great!

Can we have some of your warm weather here?

Havagoodone mate

Greg

[marktiedens]

Thanks Greg - I will send you some warm weather if you can send it back to me next winter here

 

Mark

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

It's a deal!

[edmay]

Absolutly awesome workmanship ,Edwin

[marktiedens]

Thanks Edwin!

 

A little more progress to report. The lower windows are made up of 6 pieces. After drilling & filing out the window areas I CAREFULLY bent the pieces to fit. Then I painted the window frames white,the surrounding areas with Vallejo light sea blue,& the columns gold. After gluing them in place I think they look ok. I will use the liquid window maker to simulate the glass after all the glue is dry. The windows across the back slant outward pretty close to what the plans show. The joints between the windows fit good,so I didn`t need to use any filler - just a couple of paint spots to touch up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

 

 

[donrobinson]

Man! That looks sweet Mark. Real nice job on the painting

[marktiedens]

Thanks Don. Painting is not my favorite thing to do but must be done.

 

Mark

[Keith_W]

Mark, that is the neatest I have ever seen them. I was convinced that they look clumsy and I didn't want them on my ship, but after looking at your photos I realize that I was wrong. They do look great. At the hands of someone with more skill than I could ever hope of mustering, anyway.

[edmay]

Hello Mark , Your workmanship is exquisite ,thks for the paint info . Edwin

[Keith_W]

By the way, you could consider using thin sheets of acetate or microscope slides to simulate the glass? It might look better than liquid glass.

[marktiedens]

Keith - you are too modest. Your RW is really nice with better planking wood,building the galleries from scratch for lighting,& the fancy paint work on the bow bulkhead. As far as the window glass goes,I would prefer to use clear acetate but the frames are way too thick. The acetate or slide glass would be inset too far to look good. I don`t really have a way to thin them down without fear of destroying them. A mill might work,but the high speed of a mill would probably melt that soft metal. I don`t have a mill anyway. It would be really nice if they made the windows available in photo etch.

 

Thanks again Edwin - your thoughts are appreciated.

[MEPering]

There are a couple of approaches to how glass is handled in modeling.  Acetate is common, and can be curved to fit if necessary.  But in real life, you rarely see curved glass for glazing.  It is seen, but it is not only uncommon, it is rare.   Most glazing is done with ordinary flat sheets of glass, cut to fit an arbitrary opening.  I have used acetate in most of my models, but after the last couple, have been using microscope cover glass.  It is a quartz glass, which is very tough for its intended purpose and is highly reflective, and it is excellent as far as light transmission goes.  I have a couple HO model cars I have used it in, and I am very happy with it.

 

On the downside, it is very fragile and difficult to work with.  I use a piece of smooth marble tile when I am working it, and I use a stone to refine the edges.  Now if that doesn't deter you from trying it, I think you will be quite impressed with the way it looks. 

 

Matt

[marktiedens]

Hi Matt - The window frames are about 3mm thick. If I put glass on the inside of the frames,the surface of the glass would be set back 3mm from the outside of the frames,which would not look good. If I put the glass on the outside it would look even worse. There is no way I could cut each individual pane to fit into the openings. Anyway,glass back in the day was not perfectly clear & smooth.The metal of the frames is just too soft to try & thin them down. The best solution would probably be to cut out the entire window frames & make new ones a bit thinner out of wood,but I am not going to do that.

 

Mark

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Mark

Outstanding and it must be a very delicate piece of bending of the windows. Did you bend it after cutting out the windows pains? I thought it would be easier and safer to bend it BEFORE. But it would be more difficult to cut out the windows pains after. DAME IF YOU DO AND DAME IF YOU DON'T.

[dgbot]

I have just finished your log Mark and think you have done a wonderful job.  I have used both acetate and idroscope glass covers and a few other things as well. On the window tat you are working on would it be conceivable to thin the back to get the proper fit? 

 

From a neighbor north east of you by about 2 hours.

David B

 

[marktiedens]

Greg - I cut out the windows before bending them. I thought that would be easier. The bending needs to be done slowly & with a little heat applied - not too much or they will start to melt.

 

David - I thought about that for a while,but if I thinned them down enough to be a  scale thickness I think they would break just by looking at them. It is a different kind of metal than what is in most other kits - soft enough to bend,but if you go too far or too fast it will snap. They are not really designed to have those panes cut out - I am just trying to do a little more than painting the solid windows blue or black. Also they are quite heavy & if thinned down too much they might just bend under their own weight while holding them.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Hi all - a small update. After scratching my head,checking the plans,& Pete`s info I am slowly proceeding with the stern. The stern fascia is flat & needs to be curved,so I put it in some water for a short time & clamped it to a hard plastic oval shaped waste container. When dry it retained a proper curve. Since it is made of an ugly mahogany plywood I planked it with some leftover hull planks.

 

 

After clamping it to the back of the hull,I could proceed to make the deck it sits on.

 

 

 

 

One other note - while sorting out the upper row of windows they appear to be mis-marked according to what the plans show. If I laid them out according to the plans,they don`t fit the openings.

 

 

After shuffling them around,they then matched the openings.

 

 

Mark

 

 

[Mirabell61]

Hi all thanks for looking in. Progress has been slow due to outdoor activities but I did manage to get the transom support finished.Now on to the lower row of windows.

 

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Mark

 

Hi Mark,

 

lovely stern rounding of that lower counter. Awsome decoration !

 

Nils

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

Just catching up. Excellent - a treat for the eyes.

[piratepete007]

Mark, looking at your planking over of the plywood transom, the vertical placement of the planks is more logical than my horizontal ones. Why didn't I think that one through like you did ? Ouch !

Pete

[Keith_W]

Mark, sorry to barge in on your build log. I do not agree that the railings and decorations need a ledge to accommodate them. The way you have shaped your deck would leave the railings hanging proud of the stern fascia. I believe this to be incorrect. 

 

 

This is a photo of the Royal William in NMM, Greenwich. I took this a couple of years ago when I was there. Study the position of the railings and compare them with each deck. You will see that they are flush with the fascia, and line up in a perfect line. 

 

 

This is a photo of the RW in the USNA Museum (not my photo). Again, study the position of the railings across the two decks. Also note that in neither of these models is there a ledge that stands proud off the deck for the statue to stand on. 

 

Of course, this means that the Euromodel supplied castings for the statues will need to be modified. I have a plan to modify them, but can't work on it at the moment because my model is on display at the model expo. 

 

 

And finally, a contemporary painting of the Royal George, once again depicting the same thing. 

 

 

Euromodel's plans also show the same thing. 

 

I would suggest you study your plans. I personally think your deck should be trimmed back until flush with the fascia, but that is only my humble opinion.

[marktiedens]

First of all,thanks Nils & Michael for your nice comments.

 

Keith - I have circled the areas where the lower deck overhangs the lower windows. I will do some more checking,but I don`t think I am too far off.

 

 

 

Mark

[fmodajr]

Mark,

 

Very impressive work on the stern so far!

 

I realize it is still early, but what are your thoughts on the accuracy of the kit. I notice that you are doing a lot of modifications I.e. Bending the stern facia etc.?

 

Nice work!

 

Frank

[NMBROOK]

Stunning work Mark!!!

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[piratepete007]

Frank,

If I can answer for Mark - the bending of the stern you refer to - this laser-cut  transom piece is made from good quality 3 mm,.plywood over which various metal ornamentation pieces are added so it simply forms a base surface. Naturally, it comes in a flat form in the kit but for convenience of use, it is soaked in water for a while and then bent and dried over some suitable surface to create a curve.

 

By their very nature, Euromodel kits actually encourage builders to modify - if they wish to - and so in the build logs on MSW many variations are seen from various very enthusiastic builders. The question, then, of accuracy comes down to the degree of modification carried out. The more the personal interpretation, the more work there is in modifying various parts. On the other hand, the build can be kept relatively simple with virtually no modification - but this is never seen on MSW.

 

 

Pete

Edited June 13, 2016 by piratepete007

[marktiedens]

Hi Frank - Pete said it better than I could. The stern fascia is of good quality - it`s just that it is faced with mahogany,which has a grain that is out of scale. Actually,very little of it will show once all the castings are in place. Also,the extra thickness of the planking will allow the upper row of windows to be inset flush with the front & rear surfaces.The accuracy of the kit is pretty good - especially the plans.It has been a challenge so far,but I am working my way through it. One example is the windows - they could just be painted blue or black to simulate glass & look just fine to most people,but I decided to drill & file them out to look even better.

 

Nigel - thanks very much. I think you would also agree that the plans are excellent.

 

Thanks also to everyone looking in & hitting the like button.

 

Mark

[fmodajr]

Thanks Pete and Mark for your detailed responses. It is appreciated.

I will be taking time this summer to search for what I want to build for my next project and the Royal William will definitely be on my short list, hence my inquiry!

 

I look forward to following this (Mark's) log in the next few months!

 

Thanks again

Frank