HMS Victory by Jonesey - Corel - Scale 1:98

[Jonesey]

Well, here we go.

 

Thanks to invaluable advice on my members introduction page I've managed to start construction.

 

[Jonesey]

I will no doubt have several hundred questions before this project is completed, being a complete newbie to modelling.

 

I'll start by asking what next? The instructions seem to indicate I should start glueing up immediately, but I've read that a lot of work needs to be done before a drop of glue is applied anywhere, so the above is only a dry fit.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Jonesey

[pompey2]

Before you glue in the bulkheads work out how you will keep them square whilst drying.

If they are out then pretty much everything else is.

Some people use lego blocks (surprisingly square) or you can make up some braces to hold them.

It's a good idea to have all of that detail prepared before any gluing.

 

Nick

[Jonesey]

Hi pompey (apt name!)

 

Yes, my thought exactly. They need to be square in all 3  dimensions so at the moment, I can't think of a good way to do more than 1 or 2 at a time

 

Jonesey

[dgbot]

Take your time Jonesey, This is not a race.  You will be spending a long time on her and will be wanting to work on a trued up hull.  besides files I have found emery boards very useful along with Flexifiles which work great without clogging. http://www.flex-i-file.com/flex-i-file.php.

David B

[Jonesey]

Thanks David - great idea.

 

No worries with regards to rushing it, I intend to take my time and get it right.

[pirozzi]

Start amidships and square 4 bulkheads to each other and the keel. Support each of them with wood blocks and glue them secure. Once that is done, you have a solid base that is true and square. Then work out one bulkhead at a time forward and aft, squaring them with blocks and gluing them as you go. Remember, squaring means up and down as well as right and left.

Good luck,

Vince P.

[Jonesey]

Excellent Vince!

 

Thank you

[Jonesey]

Hello shipmates.

 

Dumb question #2

 

The 2 "longways beams" (as notated by Corel) I presume are meant to fit in the slots on the top of the bulkheads yes?

So again, presumably, I have to widen the tops to accommodate the beams yes?

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Jonesey

[Jonesey]

Hi everyone.

 

Below is an image of the 2 sections which make up the front section of the keel - the stem part & the main keel#

 

 

 

 

When I place these together, there is a clear height difference leaving the bottom of the stem piece below the main keel:

 

 

 

I can think of 3 different ways to correct this, but would appreciate some guidance as to the "best" way

 

1 - sand off the bottom section of the stem. I'm reluctant to do this as this would affect the lie of the bulkheads which seems to be correct.

2 - enlarge the top of the "slot" on the main keel

3 - trim the top of the "tab" protruding from the stem.

 

So guys, what would you do here?

 

 

Many thanks,

 

 

Jonesey

Edited November 14, 2015 by Jonesey

[dgbot]

Measure and compare it to the plans and alter to match the plans.

David B

[Jonesey]

Thanks David.

 

I took a photocopy of the Stem piece and carefully cut it out.

 

When I aligned it to the actual piece, I immediately saw that it is the bottom of the keel that needs trimming.

[Jonesey]

Hi guys, not much progress since my last post, been doing a lot of studying of the plans and wrapping my head around various ideas & concepts.

 

However, what i hope will be a simple answer to my question - when I cut my rabbet into the keel, should I leave enough room for both layers of planking?

 

The model will be double planked as per Corel's instructions, but they don't mention the rabbet at all, and it's not clear from the drawings exactly what I'm supposed to do.

 

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

Jonesey

[GuntherMT]

I've seen it done both ways, but I cut the rabbet so that both layers would go into it on my completely different ship.  

[Jonesey]

Tthanks Brian.

[Jonesey]

Well, doesn't life get in the way sometimes.

 

Four long years during which we had to have our cat of 17 years put down. We eventually replaced him with a very adorable, precocious young lady.

I lost my father who sadly could not be replaced

We became grandparents for the first time and number 2 is on the way

I've changed my job

And to cap it off we had an extension built which put the dockyard totally out of commission for a year

 

Other than that it's been extremely dull 😂

 

So I'm back and raring to go on the Victory once again.

I made my first big mistake yesterday and managed to break bulkhead 14 so had to fashion a new one

I've also built a  much better keel jig following ideas i saw on another Victory thread

 

As ever, I'm going to kick off with a question

Parts 26 do not fit into the bulkhead slots by quite some margin

There seems to be 2 options - widen the bh slots or narrow the width of the 2 pieces in question

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks

[Jonesey]

Well I bit the bullet and widened all my bulkhead slots so the beams now fit reasonably snugly.

 

Now that the dry fit looks good I'm going to start gluing the bulkheads in. Squaring each one off as I go with reference to the keel, the beams (26) and the 2 levels of decking.

 

Wish me luck!

[Jonesey]

2 more frames glues in tonight. Started amidships, now working fore & aft, squaring as I go and dry fitting the upper deck for my own peace of mind 😊

[Jonesey]

Progress report:

 

All frames new glued, along with the 2 strengthening beams and the lower deck

 

Couple of pictures below

 

I made up a very simple jig for cutting the deck planks. I secured my steel ruler at right angles with a fairly heavy duty clamp. This enabled me to mount another clamp at the desired length (72.6mm) and also provided some much needed stability

 

It won't be long before I turn my attention to the hull planking 😬, but before I start planking I'd like to know what anyone has done regarding securing the masts?

As far as I can see, the Corel kit doesn't address this and the bottoms of the masts will simply rest on a quite narrow bit of keel.

 

 

[Jonesey]

Off to Portsmouth today to take a look at the real thing

 

I'll post some pictures when I get back

[Jonesey]

As promised, some photos from yesterday's trip

 

Didn't really appreciate the size of her, absolutely massive when up close

 

 

 

 

[Jonesey]

Hi all

 

It's been a while since I last posted so a quick update followed by my current problem.

 

Work has been slow just having evenings & weekends to work in the shipyard, but I've done the lower deck planking, fitted the bow filler pieces, installed the gun port backing on the starboard side and have started work on the stern fillers

 

 

 

 

[Jonesey]

Which brings us to my issue.

 

Looking at the plans, plates E & F show the placing of the stern fillers

I'm concerned about how these actually get shaped into place

 

Looking at the diagram in E, you can see the original piece supplied by Corel mounted on the frame.

The piece shown on the right of the figure shows a dotted line which is meant to be carved out.

 

So far so good

 

Now compare it to the diagram labelled F

looking vertically down, the piece is shaped with a nice curve where it attaches to frame 14

But in E, it's shown as a straight cut which doesn't make sense.

Likewise, the taper of the bottom of the piece in F again shows a curve, but in E there appear to be more material left than is carved out in F

 

Totally confused by this. I don't want to remove too much material as correcting this afterwards would be a major pain and I want to try and get this right.

so, any ideas dear people?

 

 

 

[Vane]

Just hang in there... at this stage everything u do result in huge progress. Its slower later when you are into details.

Edited August 1, 2019 by Vane

[Jonesey]

Thank you Vane for your kind words of encouragement

 

I must admit it's a bit disheartening to ask questions which seem to be ignored by members of the community

 

All I'm really trying to avoid is making mistakes but with some of these issues I seem to be literally making it up as I go along with little or no guidance

 

I will keep on muddling through as best I can

[GrandpaPhil]

I have the Mantua version of this kit which has a stern which is built completely differently.  

 

It looks to me like it is having you form the curvature of the stern from parts 14 and 30, much like you did with the bow.  You are essentially using parts 14 and 30 as filler blocks.  They will make planking much easier.

 

Victory had a round tuck stern which means that the planking curves up to the stern castle.

 

 I planked mine without any filler blocks, because the kit didn’t come with them.  I should have made some.  I had massive problems that you won’t have, because I didn’t.

Edited August 2, 2019 by GrandpaPhil

[Jonesey]

Nice insight Phil. 

 

I did manage to look at a couple of pictures from Challenger's build and they show about 80% of what I'd like to see, but I think a germ of a plan is forming inside my less than stellar mind - so I'll let it runs it's course and see what it comes up with

 

Thank you

 

Edited August 2, 2019 by Jonesey

[Sea Hoss]

These filler blocks are to allow the later planking to lay flat. They give you a suggestion on the approximate bevel. You will undoubtedly refine this bevel when you begin planking this area.

[Jonesey]

Plenty of dry fitting to come!

 

Thank you Sea Hoss (great name & avatar)

[Jonesey]

Of course I don't mind. Great to have you on board my friend

 

Just as I'm following your build