HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

[Robert29]

Greetings David and OC,  thank you for your nice comments and thank you all for the likes.

 

Finished the upper gun deck lighting and all fittings in place.

 

Beams fitted and lanterns in place all wired up and tested.  I will paint all wiring in white to make them less conspicuous.

 

Lanterns fitted on the sides of the skid beams.

 

 Lanterns under skid beams with quarter deck dry fitted.

 

Image with lanterns on without quarter deck.

 

Images with quarterdeck dry fitted.

 

It is a pity that a lot of the lighting effect is not easily seen with the quarter deck fitted.

 

Robert

Edited November 26, 2018 by Bertu
Double images

[Robert29]

A small update,

 

Fitted the quarterdeck.  I did not fit the skid beam assembly as per instruction manual, that is first glue in place the back of the quarter deck, then glue the skid beam assembly in place from underneath, then continue gluing the front part of the deck. I realised that if you trim a bit from certain edges of the false deck you can fit the skid beam assembly beforehand and still be able to fit the deck in place. 

 

 

This was something I was dreading to do, the removal of the bulkhead uprights, but it went well until after everything was finished and was working on the deck planking I nocked down one of them.  When you remove the uprights, the forecastle gunport pattern (276) is only holding in place by the glued lower edge with no side support.  I will glue it back after I finish the decking and be ready to reinforce it with the inside pattern and the planking on both sides.  

 

Decking in progress.

 

 

 

With the face of bulkhead 18 I have wires going up to supply the lights for the gallery and the screen assembly.  To cover these I have glued a piece of plywood on to bring the surface flash with the wires which will be hidden after I plank the surface.

 

 

 

The inner bulwark gunport patterns glued in. The deck is sanded but not yet varnished, that was why it looks so white and the chalking is not showing.

 

The quarterdeck screen assembly also ready to be fitted in later on.  I have added the handles for the doors.

 

 

Robert

Edited December 8, 2018 by Bertu

[Charter33]

Superb work, Robert. Your accuracy and attention to detail is an inspiration - as ever!

 

Cheers,

 

Graham

[Heinz6672]

Hello Robert,

 

I was not active in this forum for more than a year and did not pursue it intensively anymore. But today I want to start again and start with a compliment to your great work.

As charter33 has already written: an inspiring and very accurate work. To see the pictures again makes so much desire on modeling!

 

Keep it up! Many Greetings

 

 

-Heinz-

[Robert29]

Graham, thank you for your comments, always appreciated and encourage me to do my best.

 

Heinz, welcome back and thank you for your comments.  Been through your updates and your work is stunning.  

 

Dropped  one of the forecastle snatch blocks on the floor and my son's French bulldog was faster then me to pick it up and this is what I managed to retrieve back. Part of it went into his stomach. 

 

Worked another one (the dark one)from the 5mm walnut sheet.

 

 

Lining the gunports.

 

Bulwarks planked inside and outside. Snatch blocks and vertical edges glued  to bulwarks.

 

Capping rails glued in place. Complete bulwarks sanded and ready for painting.  Deck is still not varnished.  Wanted to finish the bulwarks before I finished the deck.  The two wires coming out from the mast hole are in preparation for the supply for the lantern on the mast with a big IFF I manage to take the wires up the mast without showing!!

 

Robert

 

[Robert29]

Thank you Wallace, to be honest I've seen it in other builds.  It's a very good idea to avoid as much as possible damaging the hull whilst working on deck, also to avoid sanding dust going in the gunports.

 

Another small update,

Contrary to the instruction manual I did not build the gratings straight on the deck and sand them in place, I prepared the them beforehand and fitted them complete. I tried to avoid as much as possible saw dust and shavings going down on the gun deck underneath which is not easy to remove.

 

First one is upside down to show how it is done. All sanded and ready.

 

Also I did not want to fix the Beakhead Bulkhead before I had finished the quarterdeck planking.  The front opening gave me more access to blow out any wood dust and shavings falling on the deck underneath.  Apart from that I think it is much easier to prepare the round houses with the beakhead in hand then with it fixed in place.

 

Gunport linings painted red and bulwarks painted yellow from the inside. Coamings fixed in place, gratings fitted in place and brace bitts secured in place as well. Deck varnished and ready to take more fittings.

 

 

Robert

[Richardjjs]

Wonderful work
JUst wondered why you are not showing the treenails on the deck. adjacent to the treenails on the end of the planks.
I think they need tobe carried right across

the deck
I actually don't show the tree nails as on Victory the colour of the tree nails are very similar to the deck itself

[Robert29]

Wallace , thank you, I myself have taken a lot of ideas from other builders from this forum, it's a great forum and you learn a lot from it.

 

Richard, when I had started the deck beneath, that was something I was asking myself.  Do I show the tree nails or not? As you rightly so said, in reality they hardly show and you might as well not show them at all on the model, but I thought the tree nails added a bit more of a pleasant detail.  But when I tried a sample with all the tree nails all across the planks, not just at the ends I thought it was an overkill, it was too much.  So I decided to do just the ends.  I know in reality they should be all across but in my opinion, on my model it was either just at the ends or nothing at all. I decided to do just the ends to have ecstatically a better looking deck. 

 

Robert

[Richardjjs]

32 minutes ago, Bertu said:

Wallace , thank you, I myself have taken a lot of ideas from other builders from this forum, it's a great forum and you learn a lot from it.

 

Richard, when I had started the deck beneath, that was something I was asking myself.  Do I show the tree nails or not? As you rightly so said, in reality they hardly show and you might as well not show them at all on the model, but I thought the tree nails added a bit more of a pleasant detail.  But when I tried a sample with all the tree nails all across the planks, not just at the ends I thought it was an overkill, it was too much.  So I decided to do just the ends.  I know in reality they should be all across but in my opinion, on my model it was either just at the ends or nothing at all. I decided to do just the ends to have ecstatically a better looking deck. 

 

Robert

A model is never "Right" and it is up to the builder to build it as he/she wants
You are doing a great job
Ive not put tree nails on my deck at all. I am wondering if they could be marked with a punch.
On my San Felipe I did the deck and the Hull because she was not copper plated
Incidentally have you seen my blog on the Caldercraft and amati Facebook page. 
The Copper plates should start at the stgern and work forward over lapping the one behind it
I also started from the hull up as is THOUGHT to be correct practice BUT the overlaps show up to much so I started at the Water line and worked down
Looks much better

[Robert29]

Preparing fittings to go on the quarter deck. 

 

Waist ladders ready with stanchions.

 

Quarter Barricade Assembly also ready to be fitted. Instead of assembling it directly on deck as per instructions, I thought it would be easier to assemble it as a whole piece on workbench and fit it on deck as a complete assembly. The middle rails and the upper rail were bent with the same curvature of the deck before assembled so it will fit perfectly when fitted on deck.

 

Belfry for the forecastle breast beam assembly ready as well.  

 

Supports and rails ready to be assembled on deck together with the belfry.

 

Robert

Edited February 10, 2019 by Bertu

[Robert29]

Hello, another update after a month from my last update.

 

Before gluing the fittings on the inside of the bulwarks I thought it is a better idea to fit some of the brass profiles on the outside as I was sure they were going to need a lot of handling to find their position.

 

The moulding swirls did not look so good so I added some detail to them.  I think they look much better like this.

 

I also prepared the place for the channels.  I fitted pins on the inside edge of the channels and prepared their respective  holes on the hull to be fitted and glued at a later stage.

 

Painted bulwarks and fitted kevels , shot garlands, etc. on the inside of the bulwarks. I also added the mouldings on the inside of the bulwarks.  These were not included with the kit but they make a nice detail.  I made them from 1mm x 1mm strips.  I left the place for the channels unpainted to get a better adhesion when glued.  Will finish the paint when channels and rest of the brass profiles are fitted. 

 

Waist ladders also fitted in place.

 

Beakhead bulkhead, complete with roundhouses fitted in place and painted.

 

Should have another update pretty soon, with the Forecastle Breast Beam Assembly and the Quarterdeck Barricade Assembly in place.

 

Robert

Edited February 10, 2019 by Bertu

[Heinz6672]

Robert,

 

very beautiful and many good ideas on your Victory 🙂

 

Keep it on!

 

-Heinz-

[Robert29]

Thank you Heinz and Wallace.

 

More work on the Quarterdeck.

 

Belfry and forecastle breast beam in place.

 

Quarterdeck Barricade and Main Companionway.

 

Baluster and rail fitted as well.

 

 

Companionway to Admirals Dining Cabin rigged. The Screen Assembly is only dry fitted for the moment.

 

 

Robert

 

Edited February 15, 2019 by Bertu

[MESSIS]

Fine clean.... lovely work!

Christos

[paulb]

Very neat and clean, Robert, nice work,

Paul

[MESSIS]

Watching your work and waiting your updates.... great log!

 

Am asking my self about the railing on the sides of the oppening under the lifeboats.... isnt any railing there on your model plans?. And if so...Is it because they needed to take out and lower the life boats very oft? Ofcourse that would have been a potential danger of somebody to fall in to the next deck.

 

Christos

Edited March 4, 2019 by MESSIS

[Robert29]

Christos and Paul thank you for your nice comments and thank you for the likes.

 

Christos about the railings, yes there should be a railing around the quarterdeck opening.  Stanchions have to be fitted around the opening and the rope handrail which is already fitted to the ladders  going down to the upper gun deck, keep going round these stanchions.  I will fit them at a later stage as for the moment they will be a bit in the way to finish other work, and keep probably I will keep nocking them down.   I don't always follow the sequence on the instructions manual, because if you always follow the instructions exactly step by step, sometimes you will find out that work described at a later stage would have been much easier if you would have done it before or in conjunction with work you are presently doing.   I try to think ahead and see if the work doing now will temper with other work I still have to do.  At the moment I am doing some work on the canons that go on the quarter deck and also started some work on the bow section although I still have work to do on the quarterdeck.  Hopefully I will soon have some images to update.

 

Robert 

[MESSIS]

Robert I am watching your work as you know an am anxious to see it going. I am also downloading your log for future reference. Great work Keep it going on.

Christos

[jimvanlan99]

Messis, can you tell me how you download build logs on this forum?  I would love to do that, especially Robert's Victory build.  It will be invaluable for future reference.

 

Thank you.  Jim

[Robert29]

Made some work on the forward most gunport on the lower and middle gun decks.  I did the lower gun deck gunport as advised in the manual, but for the middle gun deck gunport a I went for a different approach.

 

I cut two piece of walnut and sanded them at an angle to look like they are agar when fitted to the hull.    

 

The lower gunport is not entirely to my satisfaction, it still needs the hinges, etc... but I will still try to finish it better.

 

When I came to the Beakhead Capping Assembly I was not sure how to finish the two beakheads (125) at the sides of this assembly. I found the instructions for this quite confusing and the unclear photo showing them in the manual was also quite different from the actual once.   As the headrail (394) to be fitted at a later stage has one end attached to these beakheads and the other end to the stem against the curved rails I thought I better fit the curved rails to the stem at this stage.

 

Prepared the curved rails which go o the stem. 

 

Fitted the rails to the stem and also fitted the hair bracket (120) and lower bow cheek (123).  They needed quite some sanding to shape them to the bow curve. Planks in between fitted as well.

 

 

For the side timberheads I decided not to use the once supplied with the kit and from photos I searched on the internet I shaped two new once which in my opinion are more near to the actual once and fitted them at an angle pointing to the front of the stem.

 

Having the timberheads in place I was able to fit the Beakhead Capping Assembly.

Plank sheer glued in place, with ends fitted to the beakheads.

 

 

Beakhead bulkhead timberheads (121 and 122) glued in place.  I used white glue to give me time to aligne them and keep them perfectly in position before glue dries.

 

 

Assembly finished.

 

Robert

[Robert29]

Thank you Wallace.

 

I continued working on the bow section.

 

The four head timbers glued in place .

 

Rails shaped, painted and fitted in place.

Decided to fit a strip of wood over the timber heads and rails.

 

Brass profile shaped, painted and glued in position across the beakead bulkhead.

 

Pilasters also painted and glued in place.

 

This is how I rounded the pilasters for the round houses.

I found a socket the exact diameter of the round house, got a water hose clip, first I shaped the pilasters to more or less the shape of the round house with my hands, placed it round the socket, placed the hose clip around it and tightened. It came out a perfect round shape.

 

Fitted doors and gun ports and platform.

Fitted main rail, which is also forms the outer part of the timberhead.

Also. added a ring handle to the doors,

That's all for today.

 

Robert

 

Edited April 27, 2019 by Bertu
Duplicate photos

[Kevin]

Lovely work Robert, and some great ideas, yes the head timbers take a while to get right, i remade some of mine like the hair brackes, LOL it was about this time i realised i had not made removed enough gunports

[Heinz6672]

I love it!

 

Well done!!!

 

🙂

 

-Heinz-

[Robert29]

On 2/29/2016 at 10:05 PM, Kevin said:

dont forget all the gun port openings on the bow

Kevin,

Ha, ha so that's why when I was doing the hull you had sent me this post.  Thank you again Kevin, after that I made sure I don't forget them.  Well, sometimes we all have a lapsus, after I had fitted the ladders in the Admirals Cabin that goes down to the upper gun deck, glued it to make sure it stays there I realised that I fitted it without the stanchions at the base of the ladders.  There was no way I could take off the ladders again without doing any damage, and with the deck opening being so small it was no joke trying to fit them in place with a tweezer.  I don't remember how many times I dropped the stanchions down the upper gun deck and fish them again for another try.  If I remember well it took me nearly two hours until I succeeded.

Robert

Edited April 28, 2019 by Bertu

[Robert29]

Thank you Heinz, from time to time I keep popping into your magnificent Victory build. 

 

My next job in mind is to fit the Poop Deck and to do that I have to fit the cannons inside the Cabin, so I have to concentrate on them for now.  I have already prepared the carriages so I needed to blacken the barrels.  Although for the moment I only need the cannons for the quarterdeck, once I am on the job I decided to blacken all the rest of the barrels, that is the dummy barrels for the lower and middle gun deck , at one go.

 

As already posted before I had sourced the Birchwood Brass Black which I found very good.  It was not available locally so I had to source it from abroad.  The problem was that  suppliers did not ship this product abroad until I finally found one that did. 

 

 I found a small glass container for the Brass Black.  It was ideal because I did not have to use much of the agent to cover all the length of the cannon.  The only draw back was that I had to do them one by one which took more time but at the same time I had more control on the time dipping them for.  

 

The barrels had some kind of an oily residue on them so first I washed them thoroughly  with water and a normal dish washing agent using an old tooth brush, then left them in acetone for half a day.

 

This was the set up for the job, the glass container with the blackening agent, next to it two containers with water to rinse the cannons,  first rinse in the first container to remove most of the blackening agent then leave them for some time in the other.

The best method I found was to dip the barrel in the Brass Black agent for 15 seconds, take it out and leave it wet with the agent for another 45 seconds, then rinse them in water to stop the chemical reaction, first in one container than in the other.  From previous blackening of small etched parts I experienced that if you leave them long in the blackening agent, the blackening layer will sort of peel off.  With one process this was not enough, I had to repeat the same process another two times.  After each process, when dry it leaves a powdery layer.  Before each process it is very important to remove this layer by rubbing them with a cloth, otherwise the next process will not be effective.

 

Barrel being dipped in agent by holding it with a toothpick plugged in the front hole of the cannon.  Should have worn gloves because after so many dippings I also blackened my fingers and my nails, apart from the fact that after I read the label on container it stated that prolonged contact may damage your skin.  After a good hand wash no harm done.

Rinsed in water

 

Left to dry on these stands I prepared beforehand.

The quarterdeck barrels on the left side had the process repeated three times.  They are still drying except for the one on the right in the front row which is already buffed and the powdery residue removed. The dummy barrels in the middle and right hand still have to go for their third dip. 

 

A closer look at the buffed one after three dips, which in my opinion the end result came out quite good.

 

I am not saying this is the best way to be done but it is the best way that worked out for me after a few tests and some good advice I had received earlier on from Graham (Archer33) when doing the cannons for the upper gun deck.  The Birchwood Brass Black is a fast acting agent.  Before I managed to get this agent I had another brand with which I could not work, and could not understand what was going wrong for me, in fact I had nearly given up and was going to paint them before I decided to have another go with the Birchwood Brass Black. With the initial blackening agent it had taken two days dipped in the agent before any blackening took place.  I definitely recommend the Birchwood Brass Black.

 

Regards

Robert

 

 

Edited May 1, 2019 by Bertu
Sequence of photos

[MESSIS]

Robert the finished cannon looks amazing realistic! Well done. 

 

Were the cannons brass or were they just some cast metal? Because I failed the other time I used the Birchwood Brass Black... the cannons were not brass.

[Robert29]

Thank you Messis, the cannons were brass.  

I don't think it will work on cast metal as it will not have the same chemical reaction on it.  On the Birchwood Brass Black container itself it states that it is for brass, copper or bronze.  To be honest I don't know of any product that will work on cast metal.  The cannon barrels in the kit, 104 of them, are all brass except for  the two forecastle carronades which are made of white metal casting.  Those two I had to paint.

 

Robert

 

 

[Richardjjs]

2 hours ago, MESSIS said:

Robert the finished cannon looks amazing realistic! Well done. 

 

Were the cannons brass or were they just some cast metal? Because I failed the other time I used the Birchwood Brass Black... the cannons were not brass.

Hi Guys
Painted all mine with Caldercraft paint

I always rig the ship with one side Closed up for action and the otherside posts closed
That way you can see the beautuful line of the ship

 

 

[MESSIS]

Thank you Robert for your quick response. It seems am going for a paint and some graphite over it. And may be some dry amber.

Christos

 

@Richardjjs I was told about the admiarality's flat black and the Tamiya deep black iron... is great for realistic cannons painting. It seems as you said I have to try and the Caldercraft paint as well.

Edited April 30, 2019 by MESSIS

[MESSIS]

@Richardjjs Just found out admiaralitys is a caldercraft paint.... cheers

Christos