H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Paddy - Scale 1:48

[Rustyj]

Boy to me it sure looks like you nailed it! Very nice.

[russ]

Those fillers look good. Everything looks very ship shape so far.

 

Russ

[mtaylor]

Whoa.... even your "scrap fillers" look great. 

[Paddy]

Thanks gents for taking a look and your comments. Appreciate it very much.

[AntonyUK]

Hello Paddy.

Yes the fillers are looking great.

I also like all the bits in your jig. Just shows that you should not throw out anything

 

Regards Antony.

[Paddy]

Thanks for that Antony and you're spot on about the bits and pieces.

Edited August 4, 2013 by Paddy

[Paddy]

Slipped my ground tackle yesterday and headed for the shoals again. I decided to make up another set of beam clamps to assist in the installation of the upper frame filler blocks and gun port lintels today. After applying the new set of clamps it soon became apparent that I had been careless in leveling the starboard side gun port sills yesterday. So, tomorrow out they come for a re-install. Wish I had had the extra set of beam clamps handy for the sill installation. Well, I do now.

 

Going to make up another set of beam clamps tomorrow also. Finding that they have a number of uses.

 

Edited August 6, 2013 by Paddy

[Paddy]

All the filler blocks, sills and lintels are now in so tomorrow will be the moment of truth as I start the fairing in. You may notice that all the filler blocks are not cherry as I decided to use up some of the frame spacing beams that were spruce.

 

[russ]

That looks fine. I do not see any big problems in fairing. Just go slow and always take off less than you think you should. Check with a sample plank as you go along, especially when you get close to having it completely faired. So long as the plank lays flat on the frames, you are good to go.

 

Russ

[Pete38]

Looking really nice...from the pictures it looks like it will fair up nicely with out "to much" hard work. 

 

Good luck and have fun sanding....sanding....sanding....sanding....

[Paddy]

Thanks for the advice and encouragement gents. Go slow is the word for the crew today. Don't want to have to cane anyone for being over zealous with the sanding.     

 

P.S. Time to start milling some planks too.

Edited August 9, 2013 by Paddy

[Boccherini]

Paddy,

that is looking very good. Looking forward to seeing the planking installed. One thing I did learn the hard way about the filler/spacer blocks, it is better to use a softer wood than the frames, this makes fairing easier.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

Paddy,

that is looking very good. Looking forward to seeing the planking installed. One thing I did learn the hard way about the filler/spacer blocks, it is better to use a softer wood than the frames, this makes fairing easier.

 

Regards,

Grant.

 

Thanks Grant. 

 

I hear you.   Almost chose basswood for the filler with the except of the sills and lintels. Can't tell you now why I went with the harder wood ..........?

 

I've found that I have one frame in particular that is going to be troublesome.  Over size that has me scratching my head. Going to be interesting trying to get that one ship shape.  Extra sanding care. Thinking about trying a scraper on it.

Edited August 10, 2013 by Paddy

[rafine]

Over size is a whole lot better than under size. Using sanding sticks that extend to multiple frames should allow you to reduce any areas that are sticking out.

 

Bob

[Paddy]

Right you are Bob and thanks for the suggestion.

[Paddy]

After starting to fair the frames this morning by sanding and not liking my progress I got a couple of cabinet scrapers out. Also have a nice tool for burnishing an edge on a scraper and first rolled an edge of 5 degrees on one scraper and 10 degrees on another. The 10 degree seems to be about right for me in a short test but switch back and forth as I work. I really like the way the scrapers are working, though slow going (which supports Russ’s recommendation  ), with only a small amount of wood being removed in a pass and leaving a nice finish. The frames are leveling out good with the contours continuing to hold their shape.

 

I’m working the outside of the frames first but the scraper is going to work on the inside too.

 

Pleased at this point.

 

[Pete38]

Slow and steady gets the job done

 

Nice going....the frames are looking good...the scrapper is leaving a nice finish on the frames....

[AntonyUK]

Hi Paddy.

It's been a while since I have seen someone using a scrapper on wood.

It looks great

As Pete said take it slowly and review your work often.

 

Regards Antony.

[Paddy]

Pete and Antony, 

 

Thanks for that gents. Trying hard not to botch the symmetry of the frames. Maybe I should make a pattern to keep checking my work.

[Mike 41]

Hi Paddy,

 

The frames look great! I don’t think you need to make a pattern just keep on scrapping.

 

Mike

[russ]

Paddy:

I would suggest going at with a sanding block and different grades of sandpaper. Begin with a coarse grade like 80 grit, then switch to 220 grit, and finish with maybe 400 grit or so.

 

Do not overthink any of this. Trust your eyes, your fingers, and constantly check with a piece of planking to tell you when you have got it faired. So long as you take your time, it will be fine.

 

Russ

[Paddy]

Hi Paddy,

 

The frames look great! I don’t think you need to make a pattern just keep on scrapping.

 

Mike

Hello Mike,

Thanks for that. Good to see you.

 

P.S. Think I'm starting to get the hang of the scrapers, sharpening and what angle to use.

Edited August 13, 2013 by Paddy

[Paddy]

Paddy:

I would suggest going at with a sanding block and different grades of sandpaper. Begin with a coarse grade like 80 grit, then switch to 220 grit, and finish with maybe 400 grit or so.

 

Do not overthink any of this. Trust your eyes, your fingers, and constantly check with a piece of planking to tell you when you have got it faired. So long as you take your time, it will be fine.

 

Russ

Thanks Russ. You last sentence hit home as I think I was starting to get wrapped around the axle.   One thing I would have done different would have been paying attention to your suggestion to leave extra wood on the futtock pieces. I think about 1/32" per side would have been good.

 

Again, thanks to all of you for the encouragement. Still enjoying the work and learning which will be a big help with the next scratch project.

[Paddy]

Primary work today on the inside of the frames. Starting to make progress I think. Still using the scrapers and the more I use them, for this task at least, the more I like them. Anyway, a photo at the end of today’s session.

 

Edited August 13, 2013 by Paddy

[Pete38]

That is looking good...

 

One thing that I do is use a straight edge to mark the high spots, then take a pencil and mark the place. As I sand the pencil mark is removed and I can gauge how much I need to take off

 

Your doing great, keep up the good work

[AntonyUK]

Hello Paddy.

Nice work in the frames.

A question :- are your scrapers flexible ?

And how do you sharpen then.. Only asking as this is a tool that a elderly gentleman showed me some years ago. And he was a master model ship builder.

Never used one for the purpose of wood removal only old paint removal.

 

Regards Antony.

[Paddy]

Thanks for that Pete. I have been using your technique for checking for low points. The scrappers reach across all the frames  

so able to use them as my straight edge too.

 

Something I started out not excited about and dreading I'm now enjoying. Using three scrappers now with edges of ninety, five and ten degrees gives me a selection of how much wood is being removed. The ninety removes the least stock and the ten the most out of the three.

 

Anyway, thanks again for taking a look and your input. Always a big help.

Edited August 13, 2013 by Paddy

[Paddy]

 

Hello Paddy.

Nice work in the frames.

A question :- are your scrapers flexible ?

And how do you sharpen then.. Only asking as this is a tool that a elderly gentleman showed me some years ago. And he was a master model ship builder.

Never used one for the purpose of wood removal only old paint removal.

 

Regards Antony.

Thanks for that.

 

Yes, the scrapers can be flexed although in this case I use them one-handed and do not flex them wanting a straight across cut while leveling out the frames.  I think the following will answer most of your questions.

 

Super-hard milled scrappers - http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32670&cat=1,310,41069

 

For sharpening I use a Veritas®  variable burnisher –

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32633&cat=1,310,41070&ap=1

 

but, you could use something like the Veritas® carbide burnisher which are not as expensive –

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32643&cat=1,310,41070&ap=1

 

For re-sharping or putting a 90 degree edge back on the scrapers I use the following file holder

Veritas® Jointer/Edger –

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32631&cat=1,43072,43089,32631

 

and an eight inch mill file.

 

The above items make it easy for an amateur like me to get an acceptable job I think.      

 

All in all a bit of an investment but I originally purchased these items for other shop projects, read that before model ships, but when I started milling my own wood I began using them to remove burn marks caused by the thickness sander and bringing the wood to a closer thickness dimension. Thinking about that is when I heard the penny drop.

 

I apologize if I got a bit windy on you Antony but there you have it.    

 

 

P.S. This is not an advertisement. The links have some good info about the items and can give the looker the confidence that he or she can use these wonderful tools that the old master woodworkers used and now they're almost forgotten. Love'um! 

Edited August 13, 2013 by Paddy

[marius]

Looking very good Paddy.

Using a wide scraper and using it as straight edge makes alot of sense. Will use my scraper on next build.

marius

[Paddy]

Hi Marius,

 

Thanks for that.

 

Your doing some fine work.