Painting a Waterline

[mikiek]

As the title says, this is about painting not marking. It's time to paint the hull, at the moment I'm considering all black with a white waterline. I will be airbrushing. The hull is already filled and primed. The waterline is marked on the hull.

 

This seems a little like the chicken and egg thing. What to mask first? Was considering first spraying a wide white line over the waterline mark. Apply masking tape over that, redraw the line on the tape then trimming the tape with an Exacto to leave the actual 1/16" waterline covered. My biggest problem with this is trying to cut tape on the wood surface. I always leave gouges from the knife when I do that.

 

There's always painting the hull first, then the waterline but I don't know about white over black.

 

Surely, I am completely missing something easier?

Edited May 25, 2016 by mikiek

[slow2cool]

I would paint the hull white, the whole hull

Then I would mark the water line.

Then tape and cover the white paint, then paint black.

Joe

[overdale]

Paint a stripe about an inch wide along the hull where the waterline goes, in white or whatever color your waterline is meant to be.. Then mark the line, and lay a strip of masking tape the size of waterline where it is supposed to run on top of the white paint. . Spray your hull color over the tape and peel off.  

Edited May 25, 2016 by overdale

[Telp]

I would do as joe, little trick to do with the masking tape is to tear a thin strip from the main strip and mask the line as the thinner the tape the easier it is to make a line and any slight bends to the line can be easily done with a thinner strip. Then mask over the original masking line with a wider bit. Also, before applying the tape run the sticky side across your trousers, jeans ect as this removes any ailments on the sticky section and creates a tighter fit to the area being masked.

Edited May 25, 2016 by Telp

[mikiek]

OK - the light is starting to come on. I have some thin Tamiya masking tape - I think it is 1/8" wide. That's still wider than the waterline so would I cut the tape to width before putting it on the hull?

 

Note: I always paint over the edge of the mask with clear paint to seal it up before painting.

[Telp]

The Tamils tape is great stuff, it should as such at that width be able to meander to the line if it isn't a perfect straight line. Another trick I used in the past was to lay the tape then with a very fine wet and dry paper, run the paper along the tape edge it flattens it perfectly. I use to paint military aircraft for a living and masking a 360 degree circle by hand for roundels was a great way to use masking tape as a tool.

 

Even though the hull is black I'd be tempted to white prime the hull, mark the waterline on the white primer, then mask inside those lines so you create the waterline part under the tape, slightly rub along the tape then spray the hull black, this is the tricky part, don't wait for the black to dry totally, leave a little tab at the end of the tape and take the tape off, do it in one delecate pull and this will prevent any bleeding drying on or under the tape pulling any black away. Let it dry then mask the black up and spray the White. Black over white will be perfect for seeing the coverage. Do gentle coats as well, 3 good thin coats just wet enough to cover would be ideal rather than 1 thick coat which will bleed. Acrylic is perfect and it drys pretty fast as well but I'd be tempted to give the black 48 hours before placing masking tape on it.

 

Just one other, give the white primer a little scuff with one of those gentle kitchen scouring pads, they do a nice job without marking the primer. Best of luck and it the tape needs cutting in half just lay it on a clean table and cut down the center so you have two good edges with one bit of tape, the Tanya stuff is very forgiving and re sticks perfectly.

[mikiek]

Thanks for the feed back everyone. I sort of combined what everyone said. I spelled out my process in my build log. I'm about half way thru - ready to paint the hull.

[bogeygolpher]

For future reference.

 

I have successfully used Chartpak tape 1/16 wide for water lines on past builds. You can get the tape in art or office supply stores as well as on-line in different colors and widths. You can also use automotive pin stripe tape available in most major auto parts stores.  

 

After applying the tape I covered it with clear matte acrylic poly to protect it and insure it would not peel off in the future.

 

Just to clarify, I did not paint a water line.  The tape becomes the waterline.

Edited May 28, 2016 by bogeygolpher

[mikiek]

I like the idea of not having to cut the tape. That was one of the more difficult steps in the effort.

[Grant newbie]

Hi everyone, I am newish to modelling but am wanting to a good job of the Queen Mary to present to my mother ( her uncle was one of the captain's) anyway re spray painting the hull. I have put on the primer, now should I spray the hull all black and then spray the red bottom over the top of that after masking, or mask off and do one after the other, also has a white waterline.. please help  Grant

[allanyed]

Grant    Everyone has their own way, but I would do the colors separately.  The white strip that is between the black and red it is key.  I have used pinstriping tape you can get from any auto parts store or on-line.  It will give a perfect line top and bottom.  After it is on, the entire hull can be hit with five or six coats of clear which will soften the edge of the striping tape as it does have a slight thickness and would be noticeable on close inspection.  The photo below has a relatively wide tape, but various widths are available.  (The finish on the model in the photo is way to shiny IMHO, but that is what the buyer requested.)  Egg shell/semi-gloss finish would probably be more appropriate.   If you opt not to use tape and just go with paint, be sure to seal the masking tape that you use to give the straight edge with a couple coats of clear.   It will minimize any paint bleeding under the tape.   

Allan

 

[vaddoc]

You need to use special masking tapes, the paint will bleed under any other. I use Tamiya which comes in different widths and can be stretched to accommodate the curvature of the hull or frog tape. The tape needs also to be low tack so that it does not lift the paint underneath. Do not use electricians or ordinary masking tape. Frog tape is fine

 

Make sure the tape is well tucked in at the bow and stern. If it seems that there might be a gap or it has not stuck well, start over. The paint will find its way through otherwise. Make sure the hull is smooth, any imperfection will show. Resist putting thick coats of paint.

 

I generally mark and paint first the waterline, then mask and paint each half in turns. I would not paint the whole hull black, not needed.

[Bob Cleek]

1 hour ago, vaddoc said:

You need to use special masking tapes,

3M "Fine Line" masking tape is an excellent purpose-designed solution. This polypropylene tape guarantees razor sharp edges on curved surfaces. It's a staple in the automotive painting industry. It comes in a variety of widths. Paint the white boot stripe, let dry well, then apply the tape in the width to match your boot line. Spray the black above and the red below, using regular masking tape on top of the fine line tape to mask the top and bottom colors. Remove the fine line and you'll have a perfect white boot line. Sold by all body and fender repair supply houses.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Fine-Line-Tape-Sand/dp/B00548SEWO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=3m+fine+line+tape&qid=1590569745&sr=8-6

 

It's a bit pricey, but a roll will last you a long time. As with all masking tape, an opened roll with the cellophane wrapper off of it should never be laid on its side anywhere. It should live in a ziploc plastic bag and never come out except to be used and then immediately replaced. Laying a roll of masking tape down on the edges of the tape will cause it to pick up dust and dirt on the edges, some of which can be practically microscopic. That dust and dirt will guarantee runs under the edge and "bumpy" demarcation lines.

[Rik Thistle]

On 5/27/2020 at 8:18 AM, vaddoc said:

You need to use special masking tapes, the paint will bleed under any other. I use Tamiya which comes in different widths and can be stretched to accommodate the curvature of the hull or frog tape. The tape needs also to be low tack so that it does not lift the paint underneath. Do not use electricians or ordinary masking tape. Frog tape is fine

After painting the hull on my Fifie I've realised that 'gravity' also plays a role in making sure the paint tends to stay out of slight nooks and crannies under the masking tape ie turn the hull so that the masking tape is uppermost and allow gravity to pull the paint downwards and away from the masked line.

 

This won't stop wicking or capilliary action under the masking tape but will help somewhat.

 

Regards,

 

Richard