Le Superbe by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Heller - PLASTIC - Built as "Le Praetorian", after Boudriot

[Lukasvdb]

Hello Blue ensign. I'm sorry to trouble you again but I have a question regarding the colors used.

 

I've consulted the building manual of the HMS victory by revell and it says that the black for the wales, the yellow for the rest of the planking on the upperhull and the red fo the innerworkings of the ship should be silky-matt.

 

Is this historically correct or would matt colours be more fitting?

 

Regards,

Lukas

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Lukas, sorry for the slight delay in replying I've been away for a few days.

 

I think matt is more appropriate.

 

Here's a link to the paint scheme on Victory.

 

http://www.hms-victory.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=83&Itemid=496

 

 In terms of colour shades particularly with smaller scales I prefer to soften the black a liittle bu the adition of grey to the mix, I think it gives a better scale look.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Lukasvdb]

Hello Blue Ensign.

 

Absolutely no problem, don't worry about it.

Thank you for this reference of the Victory,  it will be very helpfull!

 

I've had my eye on a book of jean boudriot, namely the third volume about rigging and such. It was for sale at a low price on ebay but just as the auction was about to end the bidding went crazy and it sold for an amount way out of my budget. It would have been an excellent guide! I'll have to do with my own creativity.

 

I'm about done with inscribing the plank lines. Just the ones remaining on the wales and painting can begin.

When reading your previous comments is it correct that you glued the hull halves together first and then installed the gun deck?

 

Greetings,

Lukas

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Lukas, yes I glued the hull halves together before fitting the gun deck.

 

One or two things you might want to consider before glueing.

 

Heller did not see fit to provide guide holes along the hull for the gun-port lid lanyards, but it is quite feasible to fit lanyards at this scale so the holes had to be drilled. To this end a small jig is required, I made mine from styrene strip.

 

Two strips to fit snugly within the gun-port are glued to the uprights which have guide holes positioned at the right level. It is but a simple job to then to move the jig from port to port drilling thro’ the hull.

The Quarterdeck level bulwark windows have been fitted with glazing bars of 0.25 x 0.5mm styrene strip, and backed by acetate strip.

Gun-port lids were not provided at the Upper deck level although in practice they did have wooden panels (Half ports) that could be fitted from the inside; these had a hole to take the gun muzzle and had a canvas muzzle shaped cover over the outside.

 

The aftermost gun-port at Upper deck level is interesting, split horizontally, and shaped to fit around the gun muzzle; it is glazed to allow light into the Wardroom.

 

This is not a universal fitting on French Seventy-fours but Boudriot shows it so I also included them on my effort, fashioned from brass, clear acetate and strip styrene – tricky little beasts but we got there in the end.

Over two of the Upper deck gun-ports they did fit Rigols (1st and 4th from the stern) why these two I don’t know but I replicated them with brass wire shaped over a former, and flattened a little on the anvil.

 

Inside the hull halves the bulwarks were painted, - Red ochre – what else, much easier done before assembly as the tumblehome restricts access.

Holes were also drilled to take the eyebolts for the gun tackle of those cannon visible in the waist, and on the Quarterdeck, an awkward job with the hull assembled.

Heller, for reasons best known to themselves, decided to provide that section of the bow containing the hawse holes as a separate moulding. In retrospect I think it better to glue this in place at the outset, particularly from the point of view of painting.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

[Lukasvdb]

Hello blue ensign!

Thank you for the constructive replies!

 

I painted one side of the hull, applied a wood colour oil wash to accentuate the planking on the hull. But when it dries up it seems to eat through some areas of the paint... It's very strange. Is it better to apply a clear coat before using the oil wash?

 

regards,

Lukas

[Blue Ensign]

For my model I wanted to achieve that mellow golden look between the wales that is representative of ‘bright’ sides ie payed with rosin, as seen in many marine paintings contemporary to the period.

 

After some trialling I decided upon Humbrol Matt Cream (103) as the base coat.

 

Once dry I coated it with white shellac, which dries very quickly, and then over-painted with mellow pine wood dye.

 

This may seem a little unorthodox to many model painters, but I obviously tried out the operation on a spare plastic hull before committing to the real thing. I then couldn’t resist fiddling some more with the broadsides, and over-washed with artists oils of ochre toned with raw umber.

 

I think the same effect would have been achieved using just the Humbol oil paint as the base coat and over washed with artists oils.

 

 What type of paint did you use before applying the oil wash, are you mixing water based and oil based products?

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Lukasvdb]

Indeed it is a bit unorthodox but a very nice effect nevertheless! I wouldn't come up with something like that.

 

I use acrylic paints from revell, I have good experiences with those (easy to mix with water, no unpleasant odours,...).

I used matt ochre(88). Which also gives a nice effect. Not too bright but not too light. And the wales are flat black( I like the contrast).

The wash is also acrylic(brand: game color wash) so I guessed there would be no problems by using it on the paint?

 

I think I will clean off the paint and start over. In the process of painting it I have already learned quite a few things and when starting over, it will even look better (I hope). And try with a clear coat over the base colours.

 

Grts,

Lukas

[hopeful]

Masterful in every detail. Thanks for reposting the build, your effort on our behalf is very much appreciated. I am especially pleased you added the tutorial on sail making (inspirational) and a photo of the completed model encased (lovely).

 

Thank you B.E.

 

Hopeful aka David

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks David I'm glad you like it.

 

It was a testy little build and originally I had intended it to be part of a larger diorama including a French Frigate and a British Seventy-four. They still sit in their boxes.

 

Unfortunately working at 1:150 with that level of detail proved too much for my aging eyes so she sits alone in her case.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Lukasvdb]

Hello B.E.,

 

exams are finished, my long awaited holiday can start now and I can finaly continue my project of Le Superbe. But with picking up where I left it, some questions come to mind. Regarding the blocks and deadeyes, what size should they be? About 3 mm? And the rope, maybe a thickness of 0.5mm to 1mm?

 

Sorry to bother you again with all my questions but as this is my first build of this sort, my experience is next to nothing. I have read on other build logs that some people send the entire buildlog by E-Mail. Is this something you would be willing to do? Because the building instructions by Heller are a complete mistery sometimes, there is no indication of putting what together first and I fear that I will block myself or ruin something at one point... It would be easier instead of bothering you all the time with my questions... Of you are not willing to do this, I fully understand!

 

Thank you for taking the time to read this! Love your Pegasus by the way!

Grts

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Lukas, I wish you luck with your exams and joy in continuing your build.

 

My original and fully detailed build log which runs to some 196 pages with 550 photos would be some e-mail message. 

 

The good news is that it is available to view on another forum.

 

http://pete-coleman.com/forum/index.php

 

You need to register to view and you are welcome to copy all or any of it if it will be of help to you. On the original log the build is divided into  separate sections which make it  a little easier to locate  specific areas.

 

With regard to your question

 

These are the sizes I used for the Standing rigging of the lower masts, the upper rigging and the running rigging is of much thinner line and in some cases wire, this is all detailed in the log.

1.00mm Ø line – Main stay

 

0.75mmØ line – Forestay

 

0.50mmØ line – Preventer stays

 

0.5mm Ø line – Mizen Stay

 

0.5mmØ line – Fore and Main lower shrouds.

 

0.25mmØ line – Mizen lower shrouds.

 

 

These sizes have been rounded to suit available thread sizes, the main stay is fractionally over and the Mizen shrouds fractionally under true scale size, but in my opinion it is the relationship between the various stays that is important, everything has to fall in proportionally between the largest scale line selected, ( Main stay) and the smallest line (the ratlines)

 

I used Amati 2mm deadeyes for the lower shrouds, but the upper ones were scratched from styrene rod or pressed from styrene sheet, again the details are in the log.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

 

[Martin W]

Hi BE, it's me again: I think, from reading through this, that I am beginning to understand how your attention to detail, and your fine skills have evolved.

 

Wonderful!

 

Martin

[Richard Bradfield]

Wow! What a beautiful model. I didn't realize such results were possible with a plastic kit. I just recently got into wood model ship building but may have to try one of the plastic kits.

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Martin, she is one of my favourite builds, and was probably the longest build I've done.

 

Thanks Richard for looking in, the possibilities for plastic kits are now endless with styrene strip and brass etch, you've only got to look at Force 9's Constitution build and Dafi's Victory. The main key is having the  information to make the changes; in my case Boudriots Volumes on the Seventy-four gun ship.

 

I like the 1:150 scale size, fits nicely in a domestic setting and allows for good detailing. Although I struggle with my eyesight a bit now, I do  still have the La Flore Frigate which I've always had a hanker to upgrade. Maybe one day....

 

B.E.

[dafi]

Always great to see this master piece pop up to attention!

 

Love it, great research, wonderful execution, great feel !

 

DAniel

[The Sailor]

Excellent work, B.E. She looks fantastic!

[Lukasvdb]

Thank you for your constructive comment B.E.!

 

I have registered on that site and I was looking at all those beautiful builds with my mouth just hanging open. I wil never reach such a skill level but it sure is a great inspiration to try to take things to the next level!

 

Grtz

[ndeconte]

B. E.,

 

Beautiful ship!

 

Being new to this part of the hobby (ships in general) I have to ask you about your base, I'm assuming you made it?

How did you do the water?

[Martin W]

BE -- I understand and sympathize with your eyesight deficiency.  A stout pair of coke bottle glasses have long been a primary part of my wardrobe.  And I have fallen in love with my Optivisor (and sometimes I use it while looking through the magnifier on my lamp).

 

Cheers,

 

Magoo -- oops, I meant Martin

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Richard.

 

Glad you found the site of interest Lukas.

 

Hi Martin, I also have an optivisor but it irritates me to wear it too long, I prefer my extra strength  prescription specs but I think they need upgrading now.

 

Thanks for looking in Neal, this is how I did the base and water.

 

The base is constructed out of cardboard with a wooden framework.

 

The cardboard top has been sprayed with varnish to seal it, followed by coats of rattle can colours in blues and green.

A 10mm wide strip of tape surrounds the top, this will form the boundary of the ‘sea’ and strips of limewood will be fitted later, as will the moulding strips for the sides.

 

The wave pattern is then formed using a non silicone sealant working it into shape with a paintbrush handle, and then a wetted paintbrush to smooth and relax the waves a little.

 

As the sealant dries out overnight it clears to show the base coat beneath.

 

 

The 10mm x 2mm edging strips of Lime wood have now been sprayed (Regency Blue) and mitred around the edges; this will provide an even base for the acrylic case top to rest on.

 

A Georgian style moulding surrounds the base which I think is in keeping with a period look. After testing various varnish finishes, pine, dark and mid oaks, I have settled on a light oak satin varnish. This I think provides a good contrast to the dark sea.

 

I cannot completely finish the sea where it butts up to the ship until I am ready to set her in position, but a little application of sealant should then do the trick.

 

 

The colour tonings were then played around with until I reached a look I was satisfied with.

 

 

This was the final effect.

 

At this stage there was a lot left to do on the model, but the base was complete.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Edited June 24, 2013 by Blue Ensign

[ndeconte]

Thanks for the info B.E.! Very cool!

[Revier]

Absolute high quality base! I am very impressed. Thats the style, i prefer for my "JUPITER" as well. But only the problem with the dust. Wats your way to keep all clean?

 

Best regards!

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Revier, thank you.

 

The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base.

 

 

At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Beef Wellington]

That's a wonderful base B.E., amazing what you've achieved. Seems a shame to hide the wonderful paintwork but a small price to pay. These ships seem to take on a whole new persona when displayed like this and you've really done her proud.

Edited July 12, 2013 by Beef Wellington

[michael mott]

B.E. well that does look very sharp displayed that way. It will continue to look great under cover like that. nice work on the water as well.

 

Michael

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Jason, with a waterline setting and added sails it does give a  very different look to a model.

 

Thanks Michael it was my first attempt at water, and paper sails for that matter, there was no other option than to cover her but it doesn't detract too much from the view.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Jason]

B.E.,

 

This is one of my favorite builds that I have found so far on MSW.  The information and sensations, that your display conveys to the viewer about the age of sail is superb!  I have never waterlined a model before, though I am planning on it for a few dreadnoughts in my queue, but it never occurred to me to do it for a sail powered vessel.  

 

Congratulations on a very successful build!

[riverboat]

Just had to  look at this again and add my likes...... It just gets better and better!!

Frank

[NAZGÛL]

That turned out great! Love the water and the realism of it all.

 

 

/Matti

[Blue Ensign]

Glad you like it Jason, your comments are much appreciated.

I see your avatar is of Olympia a kit I have in waiting. Had a peek at your builds and will return to savour them. Thank you for the f/b link  - I have been gathering info on her for some time in anticipation of my build, and have added it to my f/b page.

 

Cheers Frank, nice to hear from you again.

 

Thanks for looking in Matti, and for your kind words, interesting build of Vasa you have there, I'm off for a closer look.

 

Cheers Guys,

 

B.E.