Royal William by ken3335 - FINISHED - Euromodel - Scale 1:72

[piratepete007]

Ken,

Welcome back after what I hope was a great holiday. Inspiration for me comes not from what I build so much as what I see others achieve in their builds. This last posting says it all and IS inspirational.

Pete

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone.

 

Just a short update. As many of you know I acquired a much older kit that had pre shaped masts and spars, being lazy I thought that I'd use these for my current build. Seemed like a good idea that would save me quite a bit of work but no! On checking them against the plans It was quickly obvious that they were not made to the right sizes and to correct them would take more time than making new ones from my supplied dowelling.

 

Using my Proxxon lathe it took no time to make up the lower mast sections, I've shown pictures of these alongside the pre shaped ones, which are the lighter unstained ones.

 

I've got my mind around the plans now that I'm working off them and I'm understanding them much better. I'm making all the mast parts first then I'll build them up. I'm well into finishing these and have not yet encountered any issues. My initial thoughts regarding the plans were probably as a result of previous builds where you didn't have to think too hard as you were guided through the process whereas here you are left to your own method, I'm now of the opinion that the plans for the masts are very good.

 

Ken

 

[Dilbert55]

Making tapered, etc. mast parts are a real challenge without a small lathe. I've been using a variable speed drill but it's very touchy, easy to break the piece when you get it down to size if you're not careful. Glad to see you back from vacation.

[ken3335]

Hello Again,

 

Yes Dillbert I know what you mean. I used to hate doing the tapering of the masts and spars, this was my first build using my small lathe and I found that it's actually fun now and it's done in no time.

 

The building of the masts went smoothly without any of the difficulties that I had imagined. I made all the separate pieces as shown on the plan and then assembled them. The only thing that I needed to get right was the alignment of the mast sections.

 

I mounted them loosely in the ship and they appear ok to me.

 

Next I'll paint and varnish them before fitting them out with the necessary blocks. I'll need to put some blocks and eyelets on the deck prior to fitting them permanently.

 

 

Ken

 

Edited October 1, 2017 by ken3335

[BLACK VIKING]

Beautiful work on the masts Ken as I have to do mine with a drill and would love to get a lathe. Stunning job my friend 

Martyn

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,  Again thanks for your likes and kind comments.

 

Just a small update, I sealed the masts, put on two coats of Caldercraft Admiralty acrylic dull black then finished off by putting on a coat of satin poly, looks good.

 

I'm now giving attention to the fitting of the deck mounted blocks and eyelets. I thought that the blocks supplied were quite good quality but I felt that they were too light coloured to look right so I soaked them in my light oak stain and am pleased with how they came out, they look a bit weathered. The picture shows the original compared with the dyed blocks.

 

Mark could I ask you to post  pictures showing what blocks/eyelets you've fitted at the base of each mast, it would help a great deal and would be appreciated. 

 

Ken

 

[marktiedens]

Hi Ken - here are a few pictures for you. There are a few more in my log on page 16 - the log entries are not numbered,but if you scroll about half way down you will see them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone, Again thanks for your likes.

 

Mark, thanks very much for posting those pictures, they helped quite a bit.

 

I've been quite busy and although I've put in a few hours it doesn't seem like I've achieved a great deal. I've put in the blocks and rings needed on the deck prior to fitting the masts, I've fitted the masts with what I think is needed, blocks, dead eyes and made up some rails on the tops, ( Can't have the crew falling off.)

 

That's it, it doesn't sound much but it was time consuming. Next I'll fit out the bowsprit and glue everything into place,

 

Ken

 

 

[ken3335]

Hello,  Welcome aboard Archie and thanks for your thumbs up.

 

Not much to show yet as I'm just making up the blocks and dead eyes for the bowsprit so I thought I'd show you my small secondary work table.

 

I couldn't fit models on my bench and use it for a work area at the same time so I made this table up from an old office chair that I found at the tip. I took the seat off and replaced it with a 20mm piece of MDF, it's suitably heavy and stable but unlike a fixed table I can spin it around like a turntable and raise or lower it, it's especially useful for when rigging, oh and it didn't cost anything.

 

Ken

 

[Sjors]

Hi Ken,

 

I have no words for what I have seen so I'll keep my fingers still and enjoy the pictures !

 

Sjors

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Again there's been lots of likes, thanks, it's encouraging to know that the effort I'm putting into my log is worth it.

 

Quite a bit of progress today. It felt that making up the blocks etc. I wasn't  going forward much but I suppose that it's a necessary evil but once made they were fairly quick to attach and suddenly you get your rewards for the effort.

 

I've now fitted the masts and bowsprit and as you can see made up the dead eye strops needed. This was Mark and Pete's way of doing them so who was I to do them differently. After blackening they were fitted, this method works well, it wasn't difficult and I would recommend it.

 

Now I'm into the rigging, the shrouds I think will be next then I'll need to get my head around the rat lines.

 

Ken

 

 

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Today's update. First I blackened the supplied rope with a suede leather dye, this gives a deep rich black. I stretch the rope, put some dye on a small piece of rag and rub it in. The rope is one of the best that I've had from any kit but there was nowhere near enough, I needed about half the amount again which I had to take from another Euromodel kit so that it matched.

 

I've done the gammoning on the bowsprit, this was quite difficult as I'd made the lower part of the head rails too close to the prow and there wasn't enough room to get the forward lower rope through its opening. After quite a bit of frustration I managed an acceptable solution. I've also made a good start on the rigging, I've put in the shrouds, deadeyes and ratlines on the bowsprit and fitted the shrouds for the other masts. So quite a bit of progress.

 

Next I will do all the deadeyes then start on the ratlines

 

 Ken

 

 

Edited October 8, 2017 by ken3335

[md1400cs]

Ken,

 

Just discovered your log for this superb example you are building. 

 

Some thoughts;

1) your quality level of added details are brilliant

2) your use of washes make all the lumbers stand out in perfect harmony with each other.

3) Your technique for coiling ropes - Thanks ! I will try that as well. 

4) Biggie - Your eye with a camera is certainly at National Geographic quality - Excellent compositions, lighting, subject matters and so on.- You're right your neighborhood helps ha ha,

 

I've added my chair to your shipyard.

 

Cheers,

 

[ken3335]

Hi Michael,  Welcome aboard. Thanks very much for those kind words, coming from you that's that's praise indeed. I've followed your progress on the Wasa from its early stages and am blown away with every detail of your build, in fact it was a straight toss up whether I would start the Royal William or try and follow your example with the Vasa. Anyway pull up your chair and have a beer on me.

 

Ken

Edited October 8, 2017 by ken3335

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

I've been working on fitting the dead eyes to the shrouds today, it's a slow process, I've done eight and I'm just getting the hang of it. There's only another 42 to do!

 

I don't think that I'll have much to report for a short while so in the meantime I'll throw in some of my local photos.

 

The first is of my home town, West Kirby taken from an elevated position. It shows the estuary and a small island, Hilbry about half a mile out, this a bird sanctuary and when the tide is out makes a pleasant walk across the sandy beach to picnic there. To the left of the town you'll see that a marine lake has been made which makes the area very popular for sailing and wind surfing.

 

I have already shown a picture of this lake but here is another from the other direction, the children on the jetty are catching crabs.

 

Dillbert, another one for your friend.

 

Who wouldn't like living here.  Enjoy   

 

Ken

 

 

Edited October 9, 2017 by ken3335

[John Allen]

Ken,

 

Your build is excellent, the picture of your hometown (serenity).

[ken3335]

Hi John,

 

Thanks for your comments they're very much appreciated.  If you look back through my log you'll see quite a few more pictures of my area, I'll also post more when there's nothing much to report, I need to keep followers entertained.

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone.

 

Again thanks for your likes.

 

I'm back with another update much quicker than I thought that I'd be.

 

I've completed fitting the dead eyes to the shrouds. It didn't take too long after I got the hang of getting the finished height and tension about right so that when the lanyards are attached they will be a uniform height. I used a wire jig for this, from what I've seen this seems to be the simplest and preferred method of doing it. The first ten took me about the same time as the next forty. I'd made it a bit difficult for myself, I don't know why but I'd made up twelve shrouds for the fore and main masts instead of the ten needed and got a bit confused. In fairness to Euromodel this was why I found myself very short of cord and there was perhaps sufficient if I'd done it correctly.

 

Next I'll start the lanyards.

 

Here's a picture of a west Kirby sunset looking out over the small island, Hilbry.

 

Ken

 

 

 

 

[J T Lombard]

Ken:

How do you prepare your wood for painting/staining? Also do you use a brush or airbrush?

 

regards

 

J Lombard

Edited October 11, 2017 by J T Lombard

[zappto]

Hi, your build is really inspiring, i like your solid work on detail!

[ken3335]

Hi J,   With regards the prep for my wood, it's been a lot of trial and error but what I've settled for is first make sure that there is no glue in the grain, I make sure that I wipe away any excess when using, I give it a good sand mostly with a solid block with 120 grit attached. I then always rub in a thin penetrating wood dye mostly a light oak, this doesn't change the colour of the wood much but it makes it look richer and really brings out the grain, for contrast on rubbing strips etc. I'll use dark oak. I then always apply sanding sealer, this dries quickly and after a few minutes I give a light rub with 180 grit just held in my fingers. To finish I use a poly satin varnish. On the decks I use acrylic matt varnish, this dries quicker and is easily re touched when I end up marking the deck.

 

For paints I use Caldercraft dull acrylic for wood and Tamiya Gold gilt on the decorative castings. I only ever use brushes but good quality ones and build up the colour using thin layers.

 

I hope that this helps.

 

Ken

[J T Lombard]

Quote

•  

Ken:

Thank you for the lesson. I can only hope to have half as good results.

 

regards

 

J

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Just a short update to let you know how I'm getting on.

 

I've finished the lanyards on the fore mast shrouds, after quite a few re fits they eventually came out ok. I hadn't realised just how many mistakes that one could make doing what looks a not too difficult task, not just mistakes but making the same ones over and over again. I found that getting the height of the deadeyes uniform was the trickiest part. The next set I think will prove to be easier as I think that I now have an idea what I'm doing.

 

Talk about doing things over again, I decided that I needed to redo the bowsprit rigging again. After I'd fitted the mast shrouds I realised that I'd used the same diameter thread for the bowsprit as for the mizzen, I'm not concerned about exact scale but I think that things should look in proportion, in isolation they looked ok but against the rest they looked too thick, anyway I think that the second time around they came out neater, that's practice for you. The pictures show the different versions, see if you can spot which is which.

 

 

Ken

 

 

[Sjors]

Excellent rigging so far Ken,

 

Sjors

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Another progress update.

 

I've just finished the lanyards and put in the lower batons on the shrouds. I made fewer mistakes this time around, I got about 80% right first time, the other 20% I had to redo, sometimes more than once, but it's now done to my satisfaction.

 

The shrouds have three batons, lower, middle, and top, I think at this stage it would be normal to put each of them in and then do the stays, but I think that I'll do things in a different order. I'm going to put in the lower section of rat lines up to about where the middle baton goes, then I'll put the baton in as if it was the next rung in the rat line that way I won't have to judge the exact distance between the lines up to the baton, I can just space them as I see fit. I'll do this part now, that will get me half way through those tedious ratlines, I can then change tack and put in the stays, that way it will give me a break before I continue with the lines to the bitter end. I'll then do the upper shrouds and their rat lines.

 

I don't Have a vast experience of rigging but I think that this would be my preferred approach, can anyone see a problem with this sequence.

 

 

Ken

 

[piratepete007]

Ken, in regards to your above question, I can see why you would put in the lower stave (baton), then the lower segment of ratlines, then the next stave, etc . However, putting in the three staves first would serve to maintain the 'straightness' of the shrouds as you do the ratline rigging as well as dividing the shrouds into three distinct areas for the rigging. A white card placed behind the shroud lines with pre-determined marked spacing would help. Its a case, though. of each to his own. I know that when Mark did his, it was all by eye and good judgement.

 

Pete

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,        

 

Again thanks for your likes and helpful comments.

 

I've made a fair amount of progress today on the ratlines, I know there's still a fair way to go but I think that after today's work I have broken the back of it.

 

I've completed all that I set out to do at this stage.

 

I tried the method using marked grid lines behind the stays to get the correct spacing, in theory it sounds like a good idea but in practice I found it impossible. To make it work you needed to place the lined paper immediately behind the shrouds but this prevented passing the cord through and guiding it from behind with your other hand. In order to be able to thread them the paper needed to be placed and supported away from the shrouds, but this then gave a different perspective of the spacing especially as you're working from slightly above. I gave up and just did it bye eye, I found them fairly quick and easy to do and only needed to slightly adjust a few when done. I put the sheaves in last to line up with the upper ratline and I didn't have much problem getting the tension right to keep the shrouds even.

 

I'll need to reflect a while as to the next step, I'm not really sure at the moment.

 

It's a nice sunny day here so the photos were taken outside for a change, better light.

 

Ken

 

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Here's today's update.

 

I've now fitted the lower stays for all three masts. The only difficulty that I had was deciding which thread to use as the ones that I had were either a little under or a little over what the plan stated and I found it hard to measure the actual diameter of it, anyway I just did them so that they looked in proportion to each other rather than use the actual scale size. I don't think that anyone who looks at the model will get out callipers to measure.

 

When I'd finished and was getting ready to photograph the work I noticed what a tangle my bench had become and just how much different threads that I'd tried and the amount of cut offs that there were. I took a snap of it, I'm sure that you'll smile on recognising the state that I presume you sometimes get into.

 

Again a nice sunny day so plenty of snaps.

 

Ken

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Another small update.

 

I finished off the rest of the lower ratlines, I'm glad that they're now out of the way, I again did them by eye, I had no issues and they went in fairly quickly.

 

I then made up the 28 strops that mount the dead eyes to the tops. I used 0.7mm copper wire this time as it was easier to wrap around the dead eye, I soldered the two legs of wire together, cut to size, drilled holes for the hooks, cleaned them up and blackened them. The rigging hooks that I'm using are from the Caldercraft accessory range, they come as a photo etch sheet and can be got from Cornwall Model Boats.

 

Ken

 

[zappto]

This is smooth work there! I guess you are working every awake hour! You have done a lot work indeed, was real pleasure read your log, good luck!