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SMS Helgoland by Papa - Modelik - 1:200 - CARD


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Edit the post, in the bottom part of the editor you see the images from your post. When you move your mouse over the small picture you see a '+' sign on the left and a wastebasket-icon on the right klick that one, and away it is

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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7 hours ago, ragove said:

Can't figure out how to remove a posted photo 

What Carl said, but I've already done it for you ;).

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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1 hour ago, ragove said:

This the better picture; I adjusted the lighting

Oops, sorry Ron, I deleted the wrong pic in the previous post :blush::D.

 

Here's a tip for narrow pieces like the funnel "braces". After cutting the cross-piece out run some thin CA along the edges, this will stiffen the piece and prevent (or at least lessen) the piece from getting out of shape. You can still adjust them now, and then use the CA. I use a needle with the end of the eye ground off, held in an Xacto handle, to pick up the CA from a small puddle on an old spray can lid (the CA stays workable for a few hours).

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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1 hour ago, Dan Vadas said:

Oops, sorry Ron, I deleted the wrong pic in the previous post :blush::D.

 

Here's a tip for narrow pieces like the funnel "braces". After cutting the cross-piece out run some thin CA along the edges, this will stiffen the piece and prevent (or at least lessen) the piece from getting out of shape. You can still adjust them now, and then use the CA. I use a needle with the end of the eye ground off, held in an Xacto handle, to pick up the CA from a small puddle on an old spray can lid (the CA stays workable for a few hours).

 

:cheers:  Danny

Thanks for the hint Dan. The braces (so that's what they are) kept falling apart on me. I think I will make some new ones and use your suggestion.

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The workers at he Danubius shipyard had a busy week tearing out the funnel braces and replacing then with sturdier material--styrene.  Hope it doesn't melt when they fire up the boilers.  They also completed the 3 ventilation houses between the funnels.

helgoland.jpg

Edited by ragove
typo corrected
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  • 2 weeks later...

While assembling deck house-part 24 I seem to have come across a printing error. There are two different parts 24d, and no part 24c.  I believe that the longer part 24d is actually 24c and that is where I put it.  I also printed out a second copy of 24, cut off the railings and glued them on the inside edge. Thought it would look better than painting.  i think what I am talking about is clear from the pictures.

errors.jpg

deck house 24.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I need some help.  I got to part 38, which per the instructions is the rear deckhouse. However there is no space on the deck labeled "38". I think it is the white area shown in the photo because the parts sheet has a 38c, and there is a block "c" next to the white space.  Also there are 2 parts 58 that are identified by two small circles on 38a, see photo, and also on the deck plan and seems to be in the right general location. And, there is the mast hole in the right place.  Now for the quandary. The deck house, part 38, has 6 sides. The white blank space has 8 sides,  I've tried 2 different folds and neither makes much sense. There is also supposed to be a line to show where the stairs go, but I don't see it  I am thinking that 2 sides were left out of the print.  There is some extra grey on the parts sheet that i could cut sides from.   Thoughts anyone?

instructions.jpg

deck house cut out.jpg

deck .jpg

deck plan 2.jpg

deck house fold 1.jpg

deck house fold 2.jpg

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I am totally stuck. Did a lot of Googleing but can't find an image with enough resolution to see what this cabin is suppose to look like.  No matter, the wife and I are going to be traveling to warmer weather until April so Helgoland and Granado are going into dry dock for the duration.  i will have to focus on reading, drinking wine:cheers:, and perhaps making sketches of ships.

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  • 1 year later...

Hey, Ron. Don't fret! You took on a fairly challenging project. My first couple of card models wound up in the trash, too -- there's a learning curve, to be sure. When you get around to feeling like another try, may I suggest having a crack at a free model? There's some good ones out there. 

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Bf 109E-7/trop

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2 hours ago, ccoyle said:

Hey, Ron. Don't fret! You took on a fairly challenging project. My first couple of card models wound up in the trash, too -- there's a learning curve, to be sure. When you get around to feeling like another try, may I suggest having a crack at a free model? There's some good ones out there. 

I’ve looked at some free models. Can’t decide what to try, decisions decisions 😬

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The V108 is doable (especially when you have ccoyles easy to follow instructions at hand) there are some free downloads at papershipwright, but they are a bit fiddly (more tha v108), but there is Dan cerberus-build, you can refer to in case of emergency (don't tey to match his quality, that is beyond our possibilities :) )

 

Jan

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Ron, U.S. card stocks are usually sold by weight, with card stock being labeled anywhere between 60 and 120 lb. Since you have experience with card kits, just grab whatever looks and feels right. You can use spray adhesive to laminate sheets together for thicker stock. Also, ask the counter clerks at the store if they have remnants from opened packages available for you to examine. That way you can "test drive" a particular stock by the sheet instead of buying an entire package.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Bf 109E-7/trop

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6 hours ago, ccoyle said:

Ron, U.S. card stocks are usually sold by weight, with card stock being labeled anywhere between 60 and 120 lb. Since you have experience with card kits, just grab whatever looks and feels right. You can use spray adhesive to laminate sheets together for thicker stock. Also, ask the counter clerks at the store if they have remnants from opened packages available for you to examine. That way you can "test drive" a particular stock by the sheet instead of buying an entire package.

I didn’t think I’d find samples available. I’ll give it a try.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/2/2017 at 9:24 AM, ragove said:

Actually, i have made no more progress. Too much going on right now,

 

I tossed the whole thing in the trash. I recently purchased a paper model of the USS United States from Model Dock Yard. I plan to start another build log in the near future. I hope this one goes better.  I have followed Dan Vadas' advice and made an index of all the parts so I can easily find the page they are on and each page is in a plastic page protector in a ring-binder.

jsc50.jpg

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