V108 Torpedo Boat by amateur - Digital Navy - 1:200 - CARD

[Dan Vadas]

3 minutes ago, amateur said:

my printer did, unfortunatedly, not print the locator marks very clear. Is a bit of a problem when centering the parts

Jan, if you can see them at all use a pencil to make them more visible while you're fitting the parts together. Then just rub out the pencil mark when you're done.

 

  Danny

[maaaslo]

Regarding the glue, in here, UK, there is Gorilla glue available, that i have really good experience with. It does dry with a slight yellow tint, but nit visible.

 

 

[amateur]

Ah well, now I see how long ago my last update was, I understand why the thing was a bit dusty

 

 

It took me soem time to figure out were I left easly this year. (It took less to discover that my eyesight didn't improve since)

 

I started the interior of the deck house. Very, very tiny, the camera of my phone didn't quite manage the focus ....

Evrything in place, and more or less as it should look)

 

and closing the roof.

I decided not to do the steps on the funnel. They will cost me quite a lot of time and problems, while the overall quality isn't quite high. Small erros in folding and glueing do add up when you stack the parts, so the top deck isn't quite parallel to the main deck, edges are a bit sloppy, This one is certainly a 'first'.

My admiration for Dan is growing by the second

 

Jan

[amateur]

Not a great pic, but to show both funnels are on.

 

 

All reasonably sized parts are now done. The remainder is just (very) small

 

Jan

[Dan Vadas]

50 minutes ago, amateur said:

All reasonably sized parts are now done. The remainder is just (very) small

Believe it or not - the small parts are actually easier than the big ones. Well, most of the time anyway .

 

Danny

[amateur]

Perhaps, but I have some problem in seeing them ,especially when they drop onto the floor  (note to self: don't breath)

 

Jan

[mtaylor]

4 hours ago, amateur said:

Perhaps, but I have some problem in seeing them ,especially when they drop onto the floor  (note to self: don't breath)

 

Jan

 

Try putting a cloth on your lap from your belt to the work bench.  I use some tape to hold the cloth to the bench but will hopefully soon, use something more permanent.   I'm now catching probably 90% of the stuff that heads to the floor.

[amateur]

As I wrote last time, the 'normal sized parts are done....

The stanchions for the deck:

 

the lights (other side is red :))

 

skylight...

 

all put together, and as usual, the naked eye (at least, mine) is more content with real life than with the pics. My admiration for orher card modellers goes up by the minute

 

and now for some small fun: and put together, it looks rather OK

 

Tonight I'll try the other side of the ship (same parts, nothing new...)

 

Jan

[amateur]

Like Chris ( @ccoyle) I am going to use the papershipwright railing-template.

The question is: which thread to use... too thick is probably a bit unsightly, but too thin will (At least, I think) have problems to get it glued in such a way that it becomes stable...

 

second question too think: white, and apply glue, or go to the gutermannshop, and find something in the more-or-less correct grey.....

 

Jan

 

[ccoyle]

I have found quilting thread to be a good choice. It's pretty heavy-duty and has a lot less fuzz than regular sewing thread.

[Piet]

Good progress Jan and great help from the experts.

 

Cheers,

[amateur]

I warned you: the size of the parts is getting smaller and smaller.

 

So here is the update of two afternoons of cutting, rolling (ugly words because of the carpet monster), and glueing.

Using a flash when taking pictures at close distance with a cellphone, makes the not-so-good even worse  All in all I am not too unhappy.   

 

Some miscellaneous goodies awiting a bit of grey paint to cover the white.

 

 

some really small stuff (winches and the bearing ring for the torpedotubes)

 

and when youthink life can't get worse, you encounter this:

 

which turned into this (took me the better part of an hour)

 

again, some grey needed to do some covering up. Not now, as the card is still a bit unstable due to the water in the glue. (No, I am not going to use CA for this: far too small too handle for me. I need safe glue)

 

and some present state pics. 

Fore deck with whinch and water breaker

Cabin with stearing gear, lights and support struts.

And the last one: all the little stuff installed (except for that range finder)

 

flash highlights the white sides, even when they are harly visible to the eye in normal daylight circumstances. 

 

And now my eyes need something easy

 

Jan

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Piet]

Impressive work Jan! 

 

Cheers,

[amateur]

And when you all thnk you deserve an update after the second day of christmas,  I have to disappoint you.

I have a third one running in the background, and that one got slightly more attention this day. (Almost finished, apart from the railings and some nasty little bollards)

 

 

Jan

[Piet]

Wow, nice!

Happy new year Jan.

 

Cheers,

[amateur]

Little, or shouldI say small progress.

 

Today I did somerailing stuf (draf model, poland). I used scal 1:250 in stead of 1:200. The reasonfor that: stanchion-distance is still too large in this scale, and pics show that the railing on these ships is on the low side. I think this is a reasonable compromise. Draf has used gray card, and I don't think painting will make itanybetter than it is now.

 

I also made the first torpedo-tube. More to follow (don't know when)

 

 

Jan

[amateur]

Some more little stuff. Torpedo tube on deck, pedestal for the gun, and for the searchlight installed.

 

Searchlight, and brackets.

and installed on top of the bridge. Could have been done better. There seems ro be some interference between brackets and little square box at the bottom of the light. 

 

And now I'm really done for this week.

 

Jan

 

 

[lmagna]

2 hours ago, amateur said:

There seems ro be some interference between brackets and little square box at the bottom of the light.

Is it possible the box on the light goes on top Jan? Either way it still looks good though, can't wait to see what is next.

Edited May 12, 2019 by lmagna

[amateur]

Next will be the aft torpedo, some railing, the compass and the guns. (In that order)

I checked the pics: the box is slightly too large, and the grey squares that indicate glueing surfaces are misleading: the light should be on top of the brackets, not sitting in between them.

Jan

[amateur]

Finally, after some birds and loco's I took V108 out of the dust.

Took some time, and still, the macro's show that I should have done a better job....

 

The aft platform got its railing and canvas. I used tissuepaper for canvas, but it didn't like the painting......Looks Ok from a distance, but doesn't pass the macro-test.

 

Then I did the canvas on the bridge-deck. Even worse (a well, the viewer should step back  )

 

 

you may notice that I also did some steps on the bridge, and on the aft funnel. The front one still has to be doen, but those ten little pieces took over an hour ...(and some not-so-nice words )

 

 

the steps are cut from a paper laser-cut ladder (drafmodels poland, nice stuff and not expensive. Not water-resistant  )

 

And I made a start with the screws. I need a stronger optivisor and smaller fingers   

 

 

Tomorrow I have other business to do, perhaps on sunday some progress...

 

Jan

 

 

 

 

[amateur]

Todays work. Some railing on the bridge (more to come  )

 

the anchor handling crane. Awfull little thingy. Chris suggested making an opening for the pulley. I cheated, and halved the pulley, and glued from two sides.

 

and I mounted the boat (before that, I gave the boat a good clean-up, as I made it long ago

 

It feels as if almost done, but those little parts take a lot of time (and redo's: gone is really, really gone. No way of finding back pieces of a square millimeter)

 

Jan

[amateur]

I tried another part of railing.

I'll check tomorrow atviewing distance, but chances are that this will become a redo

 

 

btw: in broad daylight the paper railings arenot so far off in colour. As they are paper ones, and prone to splittibg, I don't want to fuss to much around with them, so: no painting before placing them, and probably also not afterwards.

They can be curved rather "easily", as long as put over a round object. Bending between fingers will lead to nothing.

 

Jan

 

[Piet]

Pretty good progress Jan.  R emind me not to try paper models😉

 

Cheers,

[amateur]

Hi Piet,

 

good to see you!

this paper model is at a larger scale than your java, so it isn't that small

I like paper: rather easy, and cheap. Especially the downloadmodels have a large advantage: when you screw up, the solution is in your printer. Just another copy, and retry. (Unless you're too lazy to get up and walkto your printer).

 

Jan

[amateur]

Missing in the tutorial Chris made, are the screws. I now understand why

These eleven parts make up the screw and the shaft. (To be made of wire/styrene rod).

It is not difficult, but the parts are tiny (nad my fingers are not). Took me the better part of the afternoon. For those who are going to do the hull, beware: in the aft frames is a hole for the shaft and a lighter red indication on the hull. Both should be opened to insert the shaft. As my skin tended to kink in that popstion, I did not open the skin. The result being that I had to cut the round red tube to a reasonable fit on the hull. Let's say that the largest problem is not visible when the model is placed upright

And this is the screw (my cellphone absolutely redused to focus on this part, the styrene rod is .8 mm diameter. So it is tiny. Diameter of the screw is around 8 millimeter.

And all mounted. (My watercolours won't do the styrene. Need another walk to the shop for a acryllic red paint)

I'm not going to do the second one today

(btw yesterdays railing will need a redo)

 

Jan

 

 

 

Edited December 30, 2019 by amateur

[amateur]

But Icouldn't resist.... So, here ist the redo (better now  )

and one of the guns. Five parts (one of them being .5 mm styrene rod).

and a front view, not quite symmetrical, but almost

The starboard canvas railing cover turned out better tham the left side. Some sources show the railing on the topdeck with canvas,  but the light does not stand high enough to get above the railing, so, no canvas there

 

Jan

 

 

[amateur]

I don't know whether this counts as progress : all (but three) pieces have been used, the evergreen been painted (yes, I know, thee colours are off, but not as far as these pics suggest).

Remaining work is masts and rigging. I tried myevergreen rods, but they are not stiff enough. So, I have to find some steel or brass inthe correct thickness, and delivered by a webshop with decent postage-costs. I hate ordering little thingies costing under 5 euro's and paying four times as much due to the stamp that is on it.  )

 

Today's pics

 

 

Knowing myself, it will remai. In this state quite a long time. I have now three or four models in this 'almost done' category, some for over a decade

 

Jan

[Canute]

Jan, see if you can find wire made of phosphor-bronze. It's softer than steel, but stiffer than brass. A model railroad shop might have it. The wire usually is a reddish, almost copper color. One brand sold in North America is Tichy,  It comes in a variety of diameters, from .008 in/.2 mm and up.

[amateur]

I also came across  nickel silver, that is quite often usedby the German cardbuilders. Somewhat easier to find here. However: sellers should package it in mixed packages in stead of 10 lengths per diameter

 

Jan