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Eight Sided Drainage Mill by flying_dutchman2 - FINISHED - scale 1:15 - Achtkante Poldermolen


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Drafting table is from the mid 70's and is one very sturdy piece of furniture, I needed that when I was at the Rijks Middelbare Tuinbouw School in Utrecht (Royal Middle Horticulture School). I use the table for drawing (duuuh) and the clamp that tightens the table is so strong I can set heavy objects on it when it is in the horizontaal position. 

 

The pieces are glued with a wide strip of wood in the back and they bend better. I have so much extra wood, I decided to use some of that to keep the cost down. So far I have spent around $200.00. The marine plywood is expensive. 

 

The bottom plate has an opening the size of the top plate. When it is all done I will set it on top of several stone tiles. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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Today was a sunny day to do some sanding outside and start building the cap. Sanded the mill and put together the framework of the cap.

 

Also drilled the axle head, which is the piece where the vaines will be attached to. It ended up as a complete failure. I did it by hand but need a drill press. Tomorrow getting a six pack of beer and next week go to the neighbor across the street, with the 6 pack and ask if I can use his drill press. 

Marcus 

Achtkantige pdrmln, ready for thatch .jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, 22-28 dry fit .jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, askop, failure .jpg

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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Nice going Marcus and thanks for the sawdust/Titebond III mixture.  I am contemplating a wipwatermolen for next to my fish pond.

 

Cheers,

Piet, The Flying Dutchman.

 

"Your greatest asset is not the quantity of your friends , rather the quality of your friends."  (old Chinese proverb)

 

Current Builds: Hr. Ms. Java 1925-1942

                       VOC Ship Surabaya

 

Planned Builds: Young America Diorama - scale 1:3000

 

Future Builds: KPM ship "MS Musi."  Zuiderzee Botter - scale 1:25. VOC Jacht in a 6" lamp,  Buginese fishing Prauw.  Hr. Ms. Java - Royal Navy Netherlands Cruiser.

 

Completed Builds:   Hr. Ms. O16 Submarine

                             Hr. Ms. O19 - Submarine Royal Navy Netherlands

                             Ship Yard Diorama with Topsail schooner -

                             Friendship Sloop Gwenfra

                           Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack    

                             Golden Hind - Cutte Sark (both not in this forum)

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Tomorrow getting a six pack of beer and next week go to the neighbor across the street, with the 6 pack and ask if I can use his drill press. 

 

Afbeeldingsresultaat voor een goede buur is beter dan een verre vriend  A good neighbor is better than a good friend who lives far away 

 

( Drill the holes first, and then enjoy the 6 pack) ;)

 

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Found out yesterday that the neighbor no longer has the drill press. Did ask him who did and he said the man next door to him. So I may ask him. 

This coming Thursday is my woodworkers meeting and may just ask the person I am good friends with. He builds furniture in his spare time. He must have a drill press. 

Doing this part of the mill is in the future. Tomorrow I need to do some more painting and put the tile glue on to imitate the thatch. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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Started putting on the tile glue paste one side after another. Put on about 5-7mm and used a hard bristle brush going from down to up to imitate the thatch. 

It looked good after it was all done. Then over time once it starts to dry it all settled a bit flat, like frosting on a cake. 

It is still drying in the garage and I am assuming that tomorrow it has hardened completely. 

 

I will take a coarse wire brush and add more ridges to the sides. I did notice in one small area which is already dry the material is is hard and does not come off when scratching with a finger nail. 

Tomorrow part 2

 

Also painted the underside of 2 pieces dark blue. In Dutch it is called  t'hemeltje (little heaven). 

Marcus 

 

Achtkantige pdrmln, tile glue .jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, tile glue thatch 1.jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, tile glue thatch 2.jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, t hemeltje #29.jpg

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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Part 2

After a full day of drying the tile glue looks like, when clay soil has been baking in the sun for about 3 months with added ridges. It is also extremely hard. Some areas have cracks that are too obvious so these need to be filled in. Furthermore, a coarse wire brush makes no difference. 

 

Conclusion : fill in the cracks and add a thin layer here and there and try to imitate the thatch, again. My guess about the cracks is that the paste is put on while the mill stands up instead of laying down. Gravity pulled some areas apart. 

 

It is a nice learning experience. The tile glue that is recommended in the instructions which are in Dutch, is not the same as the tile glue I bought here in the US. 

 

From about 10 feet away, you can't really see the cracks. 

 

Question for the Dutch members. 

What color is the thatch? 

I know new thatch is straw colored and over time it becomes grayish. So what color shall I paint that area?

Marcus 

Achtkantige pdrmln, tile glue dried in cracks .jpg

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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I have never in my life seen a newly thatched mill, so I would go for a medium to dark brown -greyish. You might want to google on "rieten daken", and have a look at the images. Most thatched roofs discolour within a year, so it is rare to see a straw coloured roof, and if you do, it will have been (re)thatched very recently. One used to see roofs with a lot of moss, nowadays thatched roofs are shorn, the thatcher removes an outer layer of approximately one inch, which removes the budding growth of moss on the roof. Even shorn, it doesn't look new, it has a newish look, but still brown-greyish ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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The colour also depends on the temperature/amount of sun over the last twoweeks.

water makes the thatch more dark brwon, and it makes the moss grow, so there will also be a greenish colour. Sunn and warmth will result in the moss drying (and falling off), the moisture disappear, so the whole thing becomes more greyish.

On my way to work I come by a couple of these mills every day: theircolour is letterallynever the same.

 

google for molen rietgedekt, and you will get the full range of colours. Pick some 'inthe middle' greyish brown' and that will do. Very dark and starkyellowish do exist inreallife, but will generallynot do to depect a mill.

 

Jan

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This is a dry, newly thatched mill: sharplines, one colour.

 

IMG_0465.JPG.b5c1629e0eaa75e5c3a983b9bc97436a.JPG

 

Old (notice the moss), and less sharp corners in the thatch, but very dry (because, greyish colour)

 

IMG_0466.JPG.3f8abad43f8c462b8603ca23db006cf9.JPG

 

Thatching is expensive, so not uncommon: pnly replace the leaking side...

IMG_0467.thumb.JPG.936ae4a637c114aef7faa72e705480fd.JPG

 

head forsomething that is between these colours, and you willbe OK.

 

(and: dont tey to google for a wet mill, tourists apparently never take pics in the rain :))

 

 

And when you want to get an impressionof changing colours over time, and over the day, google 'kinderdijk molen' those are the most famous eightsided mill inthe Netherlands, and therefore the most fotographed.. 8 mills, never the same colour. 

 

Jan

 

 

 

 

Edited by amateur
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Cog, Backer and amateur, thanks for the links, suggestions and pictures. This gives me enough information on choosing a color. 

The 2 last pictures from amateur are great, besides the thatch it shows the back of the cap. My plans are line drawings and these show exactly what it looks like.

 

Furthermore, in the second picture the walls are horizontal wood slats, I like that and to make the model look more interesting I am going to do something like that. This mill has the exact same colors as what is suggested for my model. 

 

Early this morning I filled in the cracks and added a thin layer of paste. Than with a regular paint brush I imitated the thatch, rinsing the brush after every 5-7 strokes in a pale of warm water. It did the trick. I like the looks of it. If I need to increase the stroke lines I can always do that when I paint the mill. 

 

Let it completely dry and slowly remove the hard paste from around the top windows. Will start painting the bottom walls. 

Been working on the cap as well (pictures soon). 

Marcus 

Achtkantige pdrmln, thin 2nd layer .jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, 2nd layer brushed .jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, 2nd layer done .jpg

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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Good observation, druxey. 

 

Unfortunately, there is still some cracking. 😞

So I took drastic measures. Got a hand saw with course teeth and started scrapping from top to bottom. As I said before, this paste is hard as stone, so it's a lot of work. The cracks are evening out and the teeth are creating ridges. 

 

Next mill I am building will not have this tile glue. I have to seriously research this until I find something better. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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I see you struggle Marcus. Why not take the "hairs" from a coarse bristled broom and use that, take one with natural bristles. I would go for that approach, as you will never get the thatch look like the real deal with pastes. Near us there is a house "thatched" with plastic elements. You can spot it to be fake from a mile away ... You can try it out on a small piece of wood first, before you decide to apply it to the structure

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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17 hours ago, popeye2sea said:

What about actual thatching?

Yes, I could do that, but that is a whole different ball game. There is a learning curve for that process. You can purchase thatch in bundles. Not cheap and available in Holland. Getting it that exact on a structure would take me several mills. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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14 hours ago, cog said:

I see you struggle Marcus. Why not take the "hairs" from a coarse bristled broom and use that, take one with natural bristles. I would go for that approach, as you will never get the thatch look like the real deal with pastes ... You can try it out on a small piece of wood first, before you decide to apply it to the structure

Carl, 

Glue the bristles on the paste? I am not taking the paste off. I am evening it out and it works, slow process. I will take bristles and glue on some wood, see what it looks like. 

I do like your idea. Should have done this instead of the paste. 

Definitely going to do that on my next mill (Yes, there is going to be another one). 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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I don't expect you to take it off. It would probably be quicker to builld the "housing" a new. The bristle would certainly look more like thatch compared to the paste. Your first atempt looked a bit tree barkish. Personally I think it is rather hard to make paste look like thatch, as I wrote before, since the body part of the straws is invisible, all you see are the ends cut at an oblique angle. Let's first get this one spinning Marcus

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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'Tree barkish', that is a good one

 

I checked to see if redoing is an option and it is. 

I have enough wood to redo everything but first I am going to to tear the sides off (the thatch part) and clean the bottom and top plate, and the styles. I want to save the foundation walls and the walls with the windows and doors. This area is not glued to the thatch area as the instructions tell you to keep it open for circulation.

 

I took some bristles from an old black plastic bristle broom, i had in the greenhouse. Cut off 7cm in length. Spread them out so the bristles are side by side. Glued them on a piece of wood. Did the same to the next bunch of bristles and glued them above the first set. Overlapping 3.5cm. Looks pretty good. 

 

Question: 

How long should the bristles be?

How much shall I overlap? 

 

Bristles can't be too short because when you overlap them they won't lay flat. Plastic holds better for outdoors as well and I can still paint it grayish. 

 

Would be ideal to put all of the bristles in long pieces of tape or cloth in strips and then wrap and glue it on the sides. 

Marcus 

Achtkantige pdrmln, bristles test 1.jpg

Achtkantige pdrmln, bristles test 2.jpg

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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You should consider the scale. Thatch has an avergae length of 1.2 m, you can calculate the length based on scale. I would use 2.5 cm (1") and overlap 1.5 - 2 cm (3/5" - 4/5") which gives you 1 -  0.5cm (2/5" - 1/5") It will give your thatch some body. Furthermore, I would build it up, starting with 0.5 cm as per drawing below (if it makes any sence to you)

 

thatch_buildup.jpg.f4aefb229b7e4b294627a01a545c7990.jpg

You can use the same principle for the upper edges of doorways and windows

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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On "surprise holiday"  with friends in Holland.

An operational mill in: Kinderdijk in Nederland

VID_20180428_133831.mp4VID_20180428_133831.mp4

( hope the link works)

I have more pictures on monday

 

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22 hours ago, cog said:

You should consider the scale. Thatch has an avergae length of 1.2 m, you can calculate the length based on scale. I would use 2.5 cm (1") and overlap 1.5 - 2 cm (3/5" - 4/5") which gives you 1 -  0.5cm (2/5" - 1/5") It will give your thatch some body. Furthermore, I would build it up, starting with 0.5 cm as per drawing below (if it makes any sence to you)

 

thatch_buildup.jpg.f4aefb229b7e4b294627a01a545c7990.jpg

You can use the same principle for the upper edges of doorways and windows

Carl, 

Makes a lot of sense. This is going to take a long time and will be very repetitive. (just like planking a ship). 

Will try on a piece of scrap wood first. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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46 minutes ago, Backer said:

On "surprise holiday"  with friends in Holland.

An operational mill in: Kinderdijk in Nederland

VID_20180428_133831.mp4VID_20180428_133831.mp4

( hope the link works)

I have more pictures on monday

 

Backer, 

Link worked and looks cool. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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This afternoon I am taking off the thick paste roofs, remove the nails and sand the nail holes. I got sheets of poplar that are 3mm and  4mm thick by 10" wide by 36" long (scrap wood from one of the guys at the Woodworker club). This will be for re-roofing. 

 

Last weekend I tried out various ways to imitate thatch and the broom bristle idea has to be rethought. With the waterproof glue it is a mess as the bristles keep moving. With CA it works beter but this would get expensive fast. 

 

I did the paste again but now the layer is 2mm thick and it is best to use a water moist 3" wide paint brush for strokes to imitate the thatch. No cracking when dried and looks good. Also painted a part of it and looks great. 

 

Won't do much this month as this weekend I have a wedding in Denver and from the 19th to the 28th I will be doing a castle tour both Irelands and the last weekend to Holland for my mother's 90th birthday. 

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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4 hours ago, flying_dutchman2 said:

Last weekend I tried out various ways to imitate thatch and the broom bristle idea has to be rethought. With the waterproof glue it is a mess as the bristles keep moving. With CA it works beter but this would get expensive fast. 

 

I did the paste again but now the layer is 2mm thick and it is best to use a water moist 3" wide paint brush for strokes to imitate the thatch. No cracking when dried and looks good. Also painted a part of it and looks great. 

 

 

Have a great roadtrip(s).  Looks like the suitcases need to be large for all those destinations.

 

Have you tried linoleum glue/adhesive?  With vinyl bristles it might just do the trick.   And it's not too pricey either.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I'm glad you got something going for on that thatch problem.  I have been pondering on the same thing. I do plan to build a wip watermolen for my fishpond.  I have tons of very long dead pine needles I could use.  Just thinking right now mind you.

First i thought that coconut husk might work but it's not straight enough.  I guess that's why dodn't go for it either.

 

Cheers,

Piet, The Flying Dutchman.

 

"Your greatest asset is not the quantity of your friends , rather the quality of your friends."  (old Chinese proverb)

 

Current Builds: Hr. Ms. Java 1925-1942

                       VOC Ship Surabaya

 

Planned Builds: Young America Diorama - scale 1:3000

 

Future Builds: KPM ship "MS Musi."  Zuiderzee Botter - scale 1:25. VOC Jacht in a 6" lamp,  Buginese fishing Prauw.  Hr. Ms. Java - Royal Navy Netherlands Cruiser.

 

Completed Builds:   Hr. Ms. O16 Submarine

                             Hr. Ms. O19 - Submarine Royal Navy Netherlands

                             Ship Yard Diorama with Topsail schooner -

                             Friendship Sloop Gwenfra

                           Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack    

                             Golden Hind - Cutte Sark (both not in this forum)

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Thanks Mark, I'll keep that glue in mind. 

 

Piet, coconut husk is too curvy 

 

My wife thought of something else, we have a bamboo fence used for one year and stored in a box. It has weathered to gray. It is a thin fence. Couple of layers of that and that could do the trick. 

She mentioned that we go to Michael's and Hobby Lobby and see what else there is. Raffia is something to look in as wekl. 

 

I haven't ripped out the fake thatch layer yet. I couldn't get myself to do that until I am sure there is no other way. Adding layers of the thin bamboo on top of the paste makes the whole thing look much fuller as well. 

 

I never knew this part would take so much trail and error to come up with something. Uncharted waters.😁

Marcus 

Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman

 

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

 

Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia).

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That's why thatch at scale is sold here ...

Pages are in Dutch, but some will get the drift with a translator

Thatching on a model mill

Shop selling the thatch

You could actually order it, have it delivered at your mums and take it back with you, or send it by postal services ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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