18th Century Long Boat by roach101761 - Model Shipways

[Tigersteve]

Agreed- don’t forget to brace the transom. 

Steve

[John Allen]

Roach,

 

A very in-depth, interesting, and educational approach to a build log. It appears the Chef is picking up a lot of Sous Chefs on this journey. The end will be interesting!

[Cathead]

For any novices that may find the build board daunting (as I do), there are a couple simple approaches that will get you almost all the same accuracy for a fraction of the fuss. Using metal T-squares and clamps will let you install each bulkhead at 90 degrees to the keel while keeping your total workspace smaller (good for people like me working in their living room). You can also glue a thicker block onto the top of the bulkheads (along with basic stiffeners) and use that to set the model upside down in a rotating work stand. This worked great for me and meant that I could approach the hull at any angle I pleased rather than only at 90-degree angles set by a board; this was also more ergonomic. See this post from my log for photos of what this basic approach looks like.

 

This approach will allow the model to flex a bit more than the very solid build board shown above, but in my experience the difference and potential error was quite minor and well below the threshold that most beginners are likely to care about. I've used a rotating stand like the one in the link above for every one of my models and find that its flexibility and ergonomics far outweigh any loss in rigidity, at least if (like me) you're not going for museum-quality perfection.

[Jack12477]

Eric, your approach is pretty much the same approach I took building my version of the kit, especially since my work table was only 2 ft by 4 ft in size.

[roach101761]

My responses to the above.

 

Steve--Thank you for your continued interest in my little project.  I will brace the transom.  I thought about making blocks with all those angles,(much too hard) but instead will place two strips on top of the transom and connect them to the last bulkhead.  I will see if it stabilizes it enough to fair the transom to receive the planks.  

 

John--Thank you for your new interest in my project.  The object of the log is first and foremost a teaching opportunity. If you (or anyone watching)catch me making assumptions about the skill set of the reader please let me know.  Of course the draw back is that it may end up being the build log with the highest word count ever!  Which in itself will put people off in reading it. For those who do not know, I am a lawyer, so high word counts is what I do best.   Even slightly better than over thinking everything.

 

Eric--You are right and thank you for your continued interest.  The method you chose to square up the frame is great and you got a great result.  Thanks for posting the links to your photo's in you build log and placing them here. That was especially useful. It was an added bonus that it also contained the link to Chucks prototype.   It was also a great reminder to mark the location of the sheer plank on the bulkheads.  I am reserving comment on the "daunting" building board for later.   Tools are great.  But remember that I am trying to limit my use of tools so a beginner will not have to buy too much.  Many may be reluctant to buy tools to build a model that is routinely offered for sale for less that $50.00.  In fact, I am playing a little game with the tools I have used or will use.  They all fit in a small box.  See the photos below.

 

Jack--Thanks for your interest.  My work space is small also.  In fact I am building the model at the bar in my kitchen.  I live in SW Florida.  It is hot all the time and my garage has two cars, bikes, recycling bins, garden tools and all that other stuff.  My power tools are in the garage, but for the most part all my building efforts are in my kitchen.  The bar is 18 inches wide and the work space is essentially the green cutting mat you see in the photos.  Of course I spread out down the bar and place the tools, plans and the box the model came in further down the bar.   Most days, I pick it up every night and put it away.  

 

 

My tool box thus far.

 

 

 

I put the protractor away because I do not anticipate using it again. The wood block is just an extra one I had that matches the building board.  I also do not keep the scalpels in this box for safety reasons I put them back where I keep them.  They will fit though.

 

 

 

Edited June 16, 2018 by roach101761

[roach101761]

 Fairing the Hull--cont.  A few quotes and diagrams from my books that define and demonstrate the issues surrounding the fairing of the hull. 

 

Fair.     1.  To adjust to a gradual, constant, smooth curve or line, eliminating all irregularities, kinks, bumps, humps, or other inconsistencies to the line of the curve.   2.  Smooth, or sweet, as in a fair run of planking.  Jim Roberts, "Planking the Built-Up Ship Model", C. 1987, Model Shipways Inc.  Hereinafter Roberts.

 

For Fairing "...Sanding blocks of varying sizes to reach the different shaped areas of the hull surface are the best all around tool for this task.  The only general requirement for them is that they should be long enough to span at least two and preferably as many as four frames or bulkheads. "  Roberts.  

 

"Select a piece of scrap wood long enough to straddle three frames and wide enough to supply a surface for sandpaper.  I call this a Truing Block. (FIG. 10-15). ed. attached below.  Wrap medium to coarse sandpaper (40 to 60 grit) around the block. .... Stroke the frames in one direction, sighting the truing block to see that it makes contact with at least three frames on each stroke. Use a plank to test the surface for vital contact.  If the plank lies flat on the surface, you have accomplished your purpose....The canted surfaces, at the bow and stern where the plank curves to form the structure of the hull, must accept the plank on a flat surface.  Remove some of the the edge of the bulkhead.  ...Flatten and true the surface with the truing block. Keep the surface contact of three bulkheads when possible, two at the sharper angles."  Milton Roth, "Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern", C.1988, Tab Books Inc.   Hereinafter Roth.

 

The above are some of the most detailed descriptions of the fairing process that I was able to find in my home library.

 

The following images are from various of my books that demonstrate the fairing issues and process. 

 

From Ben Lankford in How to Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kits.   Model Expo c. 2002

 

From Eric Ronnberg Jr. with revisions by Ben Lankford,  Fair Amercian instruction Manual,  Model Shipways C.1988

 

From Clayton Feldman,  18th Century War Brig Fair American, C. 1986 Phoenix Publications.

 

From Roth.

 

The most detailed instruction on how to fair a hull was found on the NRG web site under articles database. You can easily locate it by selecting the tab above that directs you to the data base on the NRG Web Site.   The title page and chapter 7 on fairing is copied and pasted here. 

 

Edited June 17, 2018 by roach101761

[roach101761]

FAIRING THE HULL--CONT.

 

I have made some progress in fairing the hull and through it I decided that I would place the last two remaining blocks in the hull that I had left open for mounting it on the building board.  I found that for the majority of all fairing processes it was easier to hold this small boat in my hands while I worked it with files.  I believe most here and the designer during the prototype build found this to be most convenient. 

 

As I mentioned above I decided to attach the transom about midway during the fairing process.  I was concerned that I needed it there to establish the correct bevel on the one or two frames forward of the transom.   I also braced the transom with two small strips of wood. What a big difference this made! This post and the following photo's are a little out of sequence because I have not yet written about the actual fairing process. That is a harder writing task.

 

BLOCKING UP THE HULL AS I DID, and placing the last two blocks has made a big difference in eliminating the twisting action of the hull.   There is ZERO MOVEMENT!  It is like working with a solid piece of wood.  

 

QUESTION FOR THE GROUP.   I am curious if using the strip method others have used also resulted in zero movement? 

 

The above the photo and the one below are the two views of the model with all the stabilizing blocks glued in.  I was rewarded with zero movement in the frame.  I have left them higher than the others because I plan on removing them earlier than the others so I can remount the boat on the building boarding during the planking process.  Most likely after the 4 upper planks have been installed. 

 

 

The photo below is the braced transom.  What a difference. 

 

 

NEXT I will discuss installing the transom.  This will be before I report on the fairing processes for the boat.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 22, 2018 by roach101761

[Dowmer]

Phil,

Great tutorial...even if its a bit analytical and wordy (referring to your lawyer comment earlier ).  I think this is a great tool or refresher for those of us getting back into the hobby or even seasoned ones.  Its always nice to see "other ways" of doing things and alternative ideas.  There are many ways to "skin a cat", no offense to cat lovers.   Keep it up. 

 

Its also nice to see that although there are tools out there that make building much more enjoyable and easier, you can certainly accomplish the tasks with minimal tools as you have shown.  Kudos.

[roach101761]

THINKING AHEAD--HOW THE HECK AM I GOING TO GET THOSE BLOCKS OUT?

 

I am sure I am not the only one wondering how I am going to get those blocks out, especially because of my limited tool use.  Other than being confident that the alcohol will dissolve the white glue and make it possible I still have my doubts about the ability of the alcohol to penetrate the wood and the joint.   I actually have to remove the last block I put in place at the fore end of the boat in the space I have reserved for the building board.  I think I was too slow to install it and the glue grabbed too soon and pulled the bulkhead askew just a tad.  I figure this is a good time to practice taking out the blocks. Here is my plan.   

 

We can not use to much muscle because the boat is fragile.   Therefore no saws or heavy files.   See the instructions about removing the bulkheads.  It suggests no saws, and to use files only.  I will flood the joint from above and below, wait awhile, and then use dental floss (the string type) to break the bond by working it from side to side or from bottom to top.   I will let you know how it worked out. 

 

Does anyone have another suggestion or a better idea?

 

 

[Chuck]

Unfortunately my best recommendation would be to start over and just use some strips glued across the tops of the frames.....it works the best and the blocks are overkill.  More trouble than its worth as you will no doubt see when it comes time to remove them.  I would also make a more general recommendation....try not to over think it and over complicate it.  Sometimes the simpler solutions already tried do the trick just fine.  There are over 50 longboat build logs I think....I dont think any of them approached it like this so you are in new territory here.

 

As you are trying to find methods for a beginner and new builder....using those blocks creates a situation that will no doubt be frustrating and very tough to rectify once the hull is completely planked over.  There will be very little room to get tools inbetween the frames or even get alcohol deep enough to soften the bond.  Then one must pry up and out.....to try and avoid breaking the thin and fragile basswood frames because you wont be able to use any fore-aft motion to remove them.   At least not initially.  It will be very interesting to see how they are removed after planking, but again "I fully recommend that a beginner stay clear of this approach to stabilizing the frames"  

 

 

[donrobinson]

If you don't have a rotary tool(Dremel) now may be the time to invest in one. The only solution I see is to carve out enough of the blocks to give yourself some "wiggle" room and hopefully the laser tabs break off easily. I don't think the alcohol and floss will work as it will not get deep enough, as Chuck says. 

 It looks as though the blocks are higher than the frames so adding strips is not an option now or I would say to do this now while you have lots of room to work with.

I have built several kits using strips for reinforcement and they do a fine job and are easy to remove when required. I am building  MarisStella's Pasara which is a similar frame built boat and it has seven strips across the top of the frames. The frames are made of plywood, which is much harder to fair versus basswood, and I had no problems with frames breaking.

 I wish you luck.

[Cathead]

I agree with Chuck, using strips over the top worked perfectly for me. There may have been a minuscule amount of movement toward the lower parts of the bulkheads but it made absolutely no different in the quality of the result or the fragility of the model. It certainly didn't matter for a beginner-level result.

 

If someone insisted on using the blocking method, at the least they should avoid gluing them in and just let the natural pressure of the bulkheads hold them in place. Maybe some masking tape (or strips) over the top for extra solidity.

 

As for removing them, your floss idea is certainly worth a try. Otherwise Don's idea sounds best (carve it out with a Dremel), whether or not it violates the rules of the build.

[Altduck]

Cathead said:

 

"....whether or not it violates the rules of the build. "

 

Umm, there are rules for this game??? 

[Cathead]

Richard, Phil's trying to do this with a minimum of purchased tools, a goal I highly support as expense is a real barrier for many people. Thus using a Dremel would violate that since many people don't have one and shouldn't have to in order to build a beginner model.

[Altduck]

Oh, I saw that before and forgot it.

 

Thanks

[Tigersteve]

Ok- regarding the rotary tool. You can get one for $20. A good idea even for a beginner. 

Steve

[Cathead]

Steve, not necessarily. If you're trying out a hobby for the first time and bought the longboat for $50, you're adding 40% of the model's cost to buy a $20 rotary tool that you'll only use briefly on this model and that you won't necessarily use again if the hobby doesn't suit you. Not everyone has comfortable retiree money and even basic tools add up fast. Phil's absolutely right to be keeping tools to a minimum given his stated goal of introducing this model to beginners. I've used a rotary tool exactly twice in all the models listed in my signature, and I only have that one because it happened to come in a box of tools I bought for a few bucks at an auction. A real scrounger could likely find a cheap deal, too, but again the point is to not demonstrate methods that require such things.

[roach101761]

BLOCK REMOVAL--ASTOUNDING RESULT

 

I LOVE WHITE GLUE!!!!

 

WORKED LIKE A CHARM

 

EASIER THAN ANTICIPATED

 

SO EASY A BEGINNER CAN DO IT

 

I can not tell you how pleased I am that it worked as well.  All of the above statements are practically understatements.  The real key is waiting for the alcohol to work.   I flooded the aft side of the block with alcohol and waited about 8 minutes.   I flooded the joint again, waited about a minute while I took about a foot of waxed dental floss from the container.   Lined it up with the bulkhead and held one end firmly with my thumb on the keel, pulled taught and  worked the floss into the corner of the joint across the top and pulled over and down though the bond.  It happened so quickly I did a double take.  I repeated the steps on the fore side of the block and achieved the same surprising result.   With a Q-Tip dipped in alcohol I cleaned up all the white glue remnants on the bulkheads and the block and reinstalled, being careful this time to work more quickly and not pull the alignment of the hull out of wack. 

 

It turns out that I did not pull the bulkhead by the poorly installed block, instead I slightly twisted the hull Because I did not have the hull in the building board secured in the keel tracks when I installed it the first time.    You can actually see the twist in the photo.  Look at the laser cuts for frames in the bulkheads just forward of the high block with the handle.  You can see the twist.  The laser cuts do not line up.   Lesson learned.

 

[Tigersteve]

Good points indeed, Cathead and Jim, especially if you look at the amount invested in the kit and the tools. 

Steve

[Cathead]

Phil, did there seem to be any risk of the alcohol seeping farther down than intended and loosening the glue holding the bulkheads to the keel? How did you assess the right amount to avoid that potential problem?

[roach101761]

A response to Chuck

 

Chuck

 

One or two of your points above have been touched on before in this build log.

 

    I have already admitted that I tend to overthink things.  It is constantly pointed out to me by the members of my club and my two primary mentors.  However, what ever I do tends to work for me and historically, I generally end up happy with the results I achieve. 

 

     As you say, there are over 50 build logs for this little boat on MSW.  I have reviewed some of them and continue to review them for their problem solving.   I reviewed them before beginning the build log and decided that If I was going to contribute, my log would have to be different.  Otherwise it is just another Victory or Constitution.   Thus I am writing it for the beginner, and I have previously stated that in my experience beginners like to see it done, not just receive some short instructions like,  "...fair the boat".  Beginners get frustrated and angry with instructions like this.  They put good money into the kit they selected and then purchase tools and materials to build it, only to learn immediately that what they need to complete the kit is not in box. 

 

     I will continue to defend the block method I have selected to stabilize the hull for fairing and planking for the following reasons;

 

     a.     The stated goal is to buy as few additional materials and tools as possible, thus, cutting up the scrap for making the blocks and its thickness, (3/32nds) screams use me.  See if you can find 9/32nd material in the market place.  Would it be easier to just set up my saw and mill it for what I need? Of course it would, and I would have all the material I need in less that 5 minutes.  Therefore, for experienced modelers with tools, the block method is not particularly time consuming. 

 

     b.     The bulkhead hull assembly must be aligned correctly and be stable to fair it properly. This is especially true for the beginner.  I have reported that I have Zero movement in the hull as a result of blocking it up.  Have you noticed that no one has reported that the strip method you advocate and others have used results in zero movement?   I disagree with your comment that the strip method works "...best...". It may be adequate but not best.  And, you are not quite accurate when you state no one has used the block method on this model.  See Toni's post above. 

 

     c.     Why are we in a hurry?  Ship modeling is an exercise in patience.  The sooner a beginner learns this the better. It is far more important to insure a good result on a first effort than it is to see how fast a beginner can get it done.  We all know that beginner's almost all universally balk at planing, reading the instructions front to back first, making a building board, jigs, prototypes, mock ups, special tools like clamps, and similar items because all of those things are not building the model.  They think and say; For God's sake, lets just get on with it.  All the things I just listed aid precision, and are good lessons for a beginner. 

 

     d.     You are a commercial producer and designer of ship models.  Your requirements for speed, short cuts, and no overkill directly dictate how you must do things in the commercial sphere.  Knowing you, and seeing your work I know that you bring a high level of Artistry to your work, and I suspect it is in constant conflict with your commercial hat. Especially now in your career, because the prototype models do not have to be surrendered to the manufacturer.  A beginner has none of your issues or those of a person building a commission model. Beginners can take all the time in the world.

 

     e.     The blocks are not going to stay in until the hull is completely planked.  They can't for several reasons.  First, we must be able to clean the up the glue on the inside of the hull. Second, we must be able to see if the bevels on the planks properly close the gaps on the inside of the hull.  Third, on the lower planks(bottom half of the hull) we must see inside to insure the planks are properly seated on the frame. 

 

     f.     For planking the boat I am heeding your advice and installing the shear planks port and starboard, and perhaps the first three per side. I am hopeful that that will stabilize the hull to complete the planking as we will be done filing and sanding the bulkheads.    

 

     g.     Turns out removing the blocks is far easier than anticipated.  I do not think beginners will be frustrated removing them.

 

I will continue to count on you support when I run into issues on this model. 

 

    

Edited June 23, 2018 by roach101761

[roach101761]

Jim

 

Thanks for your participation.  Just so happens I am in the process of upgrading my files. A really good file is a joy.  You can also buy really good files one at time in all sizes.  This is in keeping with the adage, When you buy a tool, buy the best you can and you might only have to buy it once.  I might expand your one file choice to two because I have found my flat file very useful in this build.  Although good files are great to have, I still think that the lower cost mini files will serve the beginner on this model as it is 100 percent basswood.

 

Eric and Jim

 

Thanks for your defense to avoid power tools here.  They certainly violate my rules for the build and most are just powerful to use on this boat.  Taking Dremel to the blocks or those strips along the tops of the bulkheads that others have used, just brings too much torque to the party.  If it catches the model is done for.      Also, lets not forget the cost of other bits you must buy for the tool. 

 

Also, while we are on the discussion of rotary tools, I do not believe it to be a very useful tool for the beginner.  Its too powerful, is always prone to taking off to much material, may damage the model, and I very rarely us my Dremel.  My favorite rotary tool I bought from Model Expo on sale, twice.  I think it was less than 9 bucks(it may have been $4.99), is re-chargeable, and has very low torque.  I use it the most.     I bought two because it does not hold its charge very well, but well enough. 

[roach101761]

Use of alcohol to break bond of blocks. 

 

Eric

 

Later in the build I may add more details to the block removal, but to answer your question, I did not have the problem with the alcohol seeping down to the false keel and bulkhead interface.   Because I was only removing one block I supported the model at an angle away from the adjoining block so it would not flow into the unintended space. I placed the alcohol with a small brush on top of the blocks only.  It did not seep through.  Also, remember I only placed three dots of glue; port, starboard and center, so the whole interface between the bulkhead and spacer block was not bonded.

 

As to the amount, the bass wood really soaks it up. After hitting the wood, the alcohol had little chance to run or drip to cause problems.

 

Another issue is that the alcohol will slightly swell the wood.  Water does this.  This trick is useful for time to time to close pin holes and such or to increase the width, as it did here.  For me this turned out to be useful and an added benefit.  The reinstalled block fit a bit tighter. 

 

Suggestion not to bond the blocks with glue.

 

They have to be glued in.  Pressure will not hold them adequately.  Although I have not tried it, tape may not work as it will take up too much space and may be squishy or create a somewhat flexible bond.  Plus, double sided tape would be an additional purchase for 3 to 5 dollars, and I am saving the tape budget for painting the hull. 

Edited June 23, 2018 by roach101761

[Jim Rogers]

How do you get the floss under the block after it is planked?

 

[Cathead]

Phil,

 

I think there's a basic different in perspective operating here. I think you're focusing on what's "best" for the model, i.e. what produces the most perfect results regardless of effort or fuss. To me, and possibly Chuck (though I don't want to speak for him), what's more important in a beginner's build is what's "best" for the modeler even if it means a slight lowering of the model's standards. Most beginners aren't going to care about a very slight flex in the bulkheads as they fair and won't notice any difference in the finished model if it's not museum-quality straight. They are more likely to care about how easy and enjoyable the process is while they're deciding whether or not they like this hobby; if they do, they'll have plenty of time to learn to make things fussily perfect. Thus, a few minutes gluing strips along the top gets the beginner 95% of the way there with far less fuss and is good enough for 95% of beginners.

 

With all respect, I think you're trying to make a perfect model here when that's not really the priority of most beginners, and that may be why you're getting some dissent/feedback on some of the more intricate or fussy methodological choices. I don't think you'd be getting any pushback from commenters if this was simply your own build and you were doing your darndest to make it perfect. But in this case, I wonder whether sometimes the perfect is the enemy of the inspiring.

[Tigersteve]

The support strips along the top are sufficient and do not allow much give at all. I think many would agree. I am very interested to see how you proceed with planking. 

Steve

[roach101761]

Jim

 

The blocks are not very deep and the floss is a little more stiff than just plain string, thread or line.  It will probably feed over, fall over, thread under the blocks and I should be able to pick it out with tweezers.  Passing the floss from underneath to break the bond should work just as well if not better as the leverage necessary should be met by wrapping the line on a pencil or file and twisting the two ends together pulling the floss thru the bond as it is tightened up as it is twisted together.

 

Also, it is not likely the blocks will stay in the model until it is fully planked.  The planking should stabilize the hull enough to take them out early in the process so I can clean up the glue.   The instructions in the kit seem to advise that this will be the case. 

[roach101761]

FAIRING THE LONG BOAT HULL

 

After much thought over a two week period, I have come to learn why there are very few or no detailed writings on how to fair a ship model hull.  It really is a "show me" kind of thing and a little bit of experience doing it will go a long way.  Fairing a ship model hull is something EVERY BEGINNER is faced with and must learn to do.  I have re-read the postings from my various books and NRG files above and with the exception of the quote immediately below, I do not think I can define a fair hull,  or the process of fairing the hull, any better than the works I have quoted.  As part of the process though I wish to add the following excerpt  from Mark's (JSSoane) essay

 

Thoughts on Craftsmanship and Precision Model Making ...An Essay

 

 

 

 

 

 

Found at that Nautical General Discussion area her of MSW.  I would encourage everyone to read it.

 

I quote from it here.

 

 

"Obtain and use good files.

I found it hard to use files at the start. Through a lot of trial and error, I discovered the virtues of using very good files (sharp and consistent); of using coarse, medium and fine files (using too fine a file at the start leads to impatience and sloppiness when it takes so long, while too coarse a file at the end leaves a rough surface and edge); and of learning to “register” the file against the surface before filing, to keep the surface level. It is too, too, easy to round things over with a file because of the slight rocking motion of the hand. Be consciously aware of keeping the file level. I often draw hatch lines on the surface I am filing, so I can check periodically to see that the hatch lines are coming off uniformly and not just one one side or corner. If I need to angle a surface slightly, I watch for the hatch lines to come off evenly at one side. With good file work, you can make just about anything fit extremely precisely.

 

Sand against templates or flat surfaces.

Holding a piece of sandpaper in the hand and rubbing against your piece will almost always lead to rounded edges. Far better to glue the sandpaper to a larger sanding surface, and rub the work against the sanding surface...."

 

 

I will concentrate on my experiences with this particular model.

 

The guidelines and diagrams posted above are very useful instructional tools for the long boat.  Although the bulkheads are much more closely spaced than on other and typically larger plank on bulkhead models the principals are the same, and I believe the closer spacing makes it easier.  The fact that the bulkheads are made from bass wood rather than harder plywood also makes it easier.  The smallness of the model also makes it an easier task as it is easily held in your hand while you work it.

 

Here is my process on this model.

 

1.    Select one piece of the hull planking material to use as a batten to determine the fairness of the hull while you work it.  I did not attach it with pins as is suggested in the Simple Planking Techniques booklet posted above.  The model is small enough not to do that. The bulkheads/frames are also too small and are made of basswood.  You might damage the model if you pin it down. You can hold the planking batten down with your fingers on each end of the model and pull it tight to see what material should be removed or remain on the model.  Here is a photo demonstrating this. 

 

 

Unfortunately I did not take as many photos as I should for the simple reason that you can not hold the model with two hands and take a photo at the same time.  I did not always have my assistants available to help. So some of the these demonstration photos are taken after much of the fairing had been completed.

 

2.    To demonstrate the fairing issues I re-post below some previous photos to show the squareness of the edges of the bulkheads after they have been placed in the false keel.  When compared with later photos its obvious as to the work to be done.

 

A photo of the square bow bulkheads/frames.

 

 

Unaltered photo of bow to stern of the square bulkheads/frames.

Stern to bow.

 

Two from above.

 

 

3.    I used three types of tools to fair the hull.

 

            A regular very inexpensive emery board that has two very fine grits

 

            A foam emery board with a medium or coarser grit

 

            My files.  Although I had complete sets to choose from, a few ended up being better suited to the task.

 

    Although I tried them, the two sanding sticks I have been using were too course, narrow and stiff to accomplish the task.

 

Here is the photo of these basic tools.

 

 

 

4.    I began with the emery boards.  The padded one first and then the thinner one.  They have the sand paper on both sides so they grip your fingers.  I was able to hold the model in my hand and with my thumb and index finger work the emery board. They were flexible and formed to the contour of the hull and were most useful in taking the high spots or the high edges off of the bulkheads during the initial fairing.  The thin one (not padded) was also very useful in the initial dressing down the edges of individual bulkheads at the bow.  I was able to use them to remove material in (2) two directions.  Both fore and aft and from the shear line down to the keel.  The  photos below demonstrate this initial process. 

 

 

WARNING!! / CAUTION!!

 

5.    I caution using the emery boards for much beyond the initial removal of material in establishing the basic bevels and fair line of the hull.  They are flexible and violate all the rules in the sources cited above.  If not careful you will round the edges of the bulkheads and your planks will not have a flat surface to lie upon.

 

6.    Another CAUTION and reminder to read the instructions.   Although the instructions are brief, they do caution you to use fine sandpaper.  No less that 220 and up to 320 as coarser tools may grab the bulkheads on the sides (edges) and split them.  The instructions advise that you should very gently sand the edges.  This is not an idle or unimportant instruction.  As I began fairing the hull I saw the bulkhead move.  This was upsetting to say the least because they were blocked at the top.  The movement startled me and I was initially convinced the bond on the false keel came apart. Upon further examination and trial sanding of bulkheads, I discovered the the FRAME PORTION of the bulkhead was flexing or moving.  It is only fixed at two points, the top of the bulkhead and the bottom where it mates with the keel.  In between is the open space created by the laser burn creating the separation between the bulkhead and frame/rib of the boat.  If coarse sand paper, or a file grabs it, if may break and come apart.  Be careful and go slowly.    

 

I next moved to my files.  That will be the next post.

 

 

 

 

 

[Cathead]

Quote

you can not hold the model with two hands and take a photo at the same time. 

 

Some simple clamps will hold a fairing strip in place while you handle the model and check it, no need to use two hands. I like using modified binder clips, which also work well for holding the actual planking in place while it's shaped or glued. Although these are common, the first reference that humbly comes to mind is a post I wrote up while working on the MS Bounty Launch, showing different sizes of clips and how to set up the proper style planking clamp from them:

 

You put the main part of the clamp over the bulkhead or frame, then the "eye" or "wings" naturally clamp the perpendicular plank/strip in place. I find that having a fairing strip clamped in place near where I'm working can sometimes help me visualize the proper shape; the strip can easily be moved as the work progresses so it stays out of the way.

[roach101761]

FAIRING THE LONG BOAT HULL--CONT.

 

Before moving on to files I have a few more photos showing the process of using the emery boards.  The first two show how I held the model and the emery board when I was working the emery board from the sheer line to the keel and back moving the emery board along the frame edges rather than perpendicular to them. 

 

 

I left this photo out of last post.  I have tried to edit the post but it will not let me.  I have tried to delete the last photo in last post and it also will not let me.   I suspect the reason is that the post was too long and had too much data in it, or it ended up on the bottom of the page. 

 

The photo shows the initial dressing down of the bulkheads/frames in the bow of the boat to establish the sharp bevel. 

 

 

Now on to my files in the next post.

 

 

Edited July 2, 2018 by roach101761