Cannon Jolle 1801 by Jim Rogers - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72 scale

[Jim Rogers]

This is my first build log. I have been building wood models for about 10 years and they were always meeeh. And then I found this website and I have learned so much so thanks to all.

 

I picked this model for a couple of reasons one it is different and unique in style, I wanted build something from a new manufacturer, well at least to me, and it is my tweener project between my just completed Syren and my start of the Essex.

 

My Likes and dislikes of this kit:

 

 Likes: masterful lazing of parts, the preformed planking is spot on. The instruction PICTURE booklet is very helpful, the English version is just okay. Now that being said my Russian is non existent so more power to the multi-linguist designer of the instructions. Terms are different which lends to some confusion. 

 

Dislikes: the name plate is only in Russian. Evil Chuck Passaro has turned me into a line and block snob. I totally did not care for the line provided with kit. It was all shiny and all brown. I attempted to use the blocks supplied but they would all disintegrate or split in half when drilled and the hole was so small My 68 year old eyes just could not use it.

 

What was in the box:

 

[Jim Rogers]

Here are photos of the line and blocks

 

[Jim Rogers]

The first steps all involve assembly of the hull frame. The frames are all a little bit thicker than the plate (Z2) so you must sand them down. I used 220 sand paper glued to a piece of marble to make a large even sanding block. Couple of passes on each side and they fit nice and snug. Be careful in assembly as they will go in both ways. Verify the notches are all aligned. First photo shows notches NOT aligned properly.

[Jim Rogers]

The next step is assembly of the rest of the frame and main keel. I didn’t follow instructions here. I noted there were so many frames that it was almost like assembling a POF model. The instructions have you glue the frames to the main plate (Z3) and then assemble to keel pieces, I assembled the frames to the keel and then placed the deck. After all of the hull was assembled I faired her up.

[Jim Rogers]

The next steps involve assembly of the carriage, seats and decking.

 

NOTE: There is a mistake in the instructions. During the assembly of the gun carriage you use part B5 as the base of the carriage. Later  on when you are assembling the gun slide photo 26 shows part B5 as the base of the slide it be B11. Be very careful when attaching D10 to assembly. Very,very delicate.

 

I found the color pallet of the model as built to be very bland so I added some contrast. The hull was stained Golden Oak with the Wales painted black then added coats of wipe on poly, the decks were left natural with WOP added, the Gun Carriage was stained English Chestnut, gun slide flat red, oars painted white.

[lmagna]

Thanks for putting this up Jim

 

Although I don't list this type of vessel as one of "Want to build" models I am very much interested in seeing another Master Korabel kit being built from the keel up. I have their Phoenix kit and while it looks very impressive in the box it will be nice to see what a talented builder will be able to produce with their kits on a step by step basis.

 

The last picture is also an eye opener as it shows just how small this kit really is. It looks much bigger in your other pictures! Some ships boats models are bigger than this ship!

 

Looking forward to more.  

[Jim Rogers]

Next up....the easiest planking I have ever done. Perfectly cut planks. Make sure you delicately remove the nibs. Part of me wishes all manufacturers would go to this process. Got it on, sanded, painted and WOP applied.

[Jim Rogers]

Next was assembly of the Gun slide and it’s installation. As I pointed out earlier there is an issue here with part numbers AND don’t make the mistake I made. I installed the gun slide all the way forward in the carriage DO NOT DO THIS as it totally messes up the rigging. Two blocks the blocks. I made a gunners decision and moved the block eyepin back. Not in any way accurate but 99.9% og people would never notice it won’t work in real life.

[Jim Rogers]

The seats , top rails, “railway” and knees are next. The seats are a two part construction and fit very snuggly. I stained them English Chestnut. Location of the knees are etched on the top plank. Life would be easier if it was also marked on the bottom of the railway. Watch those little knees or get good at making them yourself. I launched one never found it, those things are so small I kept breaking them during construction. We should make a law that all itty bitty launchable parts must have at least one extra provided. I pre-drilled all the holes on the top rail and railway prior to assembly. The PE for this kit is lazed real tight. It is a pain to remove as my parts nipper is just to large. Have fun.

[Jim Rogers]

Next up attaching PE, masts and rigging. One of the confusing instructions is the double labeling of the masts and spars. My many years of writing technical documentation taught me pick a number or nomenclature and stick to it. So either call a mast R3 or B18 but not both. My 2 cents. Also if your rigging plan shows black line (figure 29) it should probably be included in box. After rigging masts I am on hold until my sails arrive from Russia sometime in July. I’ll finish up then. 

[John Allen]

Jim,

 

1 question the rudder is at the stern right? and the cannon is at the stern  pointed aft.?

Not being a total idiot or I don't see it right you would have to aim stern to to fire cannon? It seems buttocks backwards unless this was a specially designed boat. Please don't make me feel stupid. Unless this boat was used to bombard land positions when anchored?

Edited June 4, 2018 by John Allen

[lmagna]

1 hour ago, John Allen said:

Unless this boat was used to bombard land positions when anchored?

I'm sure Jim has more information on this than I do. But I do think this was the method of use.  Throw some anchors overboard and pivot on the bow anchor, or drop the sails and spin on the oars until the stern is pointed where you want and let go with the smoky stuff.

 

I don't think this vessel was ever intended to be used in a running battle, Even reloading while underway looks like it would be real exciting at best.

Edited June 4, 2018 by lmagna

[Jim Rogers]

1 hour ago, John Allen said:

Jim,

 

1 question the rudder is at the stern right? and the cannon is at the stern  pointed aft.?

Not being a total idiot or I don't see it right you would have to aim stern to to fire cannon? It seems buttocks backwards unless this was a specially designed boat. Please don't make me feel stupid. Unless this boat was used to bombard land positions when anchored?

The boat was designed this way. Cannon pointed aft, boat designed to fight in skinny fiords and as you point out probably as a bombard platform.

 

[mtaylor]

Nice work, Jim.  I do like the "unusual" topic of this log for a build.

[Jim Rogers]

Almost complete. Waiting for the sails to arrive. 

[Viggen]

Hi guys,

and Jim, what a great build, a true little gem!

 

As you have concluded already, this is the way the boat is designed. Its purpose was to fight for control over the vast archipelagos of Sweden and Finland (then one country) in the Baltic. Cheap and quick to build, and easy to man, it was intended to fight in line abreast (or in this case abaft ;-) in significant numbers, thereby blocking and hinder movement and manuvers of the enemy. Ideally they would try to flank the enemy fleet once it was comitted to battle. There were many variants of the concepts, I have seen plans and museum models with the main gun aft, fore, or both. With the gun aft, the rudder was designed to be shiped/unshipped fast and simple.

 

This type of boat was the smallest component in Swedens "Archipelago navy" a fleet of special boats and ships up to frigate size, especially designed for archipelago warfare, a concept that evolved from the 1720s onwards. The fleet was independent from the rest of the Navy, being under control of the Army, indicating its role and imortance as an amphibious force. Russia was the main enemy and, of course, countered with similar forces.

 

Design and deployment peaked in the late 18th century during wars with Russia. In the very (well in Sweden anyways) famous 2nd battle of Svensksund in 1790 the Archipelago navy gained real fame, when it turned the battle from certain destruction by the russians into what many regards to be Swedens greatest naval victory. 

 

The victory, perhaps a little too boosted in memory by the Swedish King Gustav III, made him overconfident, and during another war with Russia in 1808-1809, known as the "Finnish War", the armed forces were ill prepared, and the war was a disaster for the aggressor Sweden, ending up loosing Finland to Russia (Finland then gained independence in 1918, in the shockwaves of the communist revolution i Russia). What remained of the Archipelago navy in the earliest 19th century took a very defensive role, and was soon a thing of the past, due to technological progress, economic constraints and a new political landscape in the Baltic. 

 

Enough rambling from me, I just took the chance to honor your build with a bit of context, I suspect info about the Archipelago navy might not be in every bookshelf around the world!  :-) 

 

Here's a painting showing the battle at Svensksund 1790, lower right shows a contigent of gunboats trying to edge around the russian line of larger vessels:

And a museum model with a close resemblance to your model:

//Markus

Edited July 4, 2018 by Viggen

[Jim Rogers]

Thanks for the history Viggen I love the context. Amazed how close my Model matches the museum model as I was just adding color where I thought color should be.

[ccoyle]

Jim,

 

I somehow missed this log altogether. Very nicely done to this point! You will post some photos when you get the sails bent, won't you?

 

Cheers!

[VonHoldinghausen]

Hi

 

As far as I know, this is a concept and a construction by F.H. Chapman.

Check out this wonderful volume on him:

"FH Chapman: The First Naval Architect and His Work" by Daniel G Harris

ISBN (old style) 0851774865 Conway Press

 

Great build!

 

Cheers!

Edited August 11, 2018 by VonHoldinghausen

[historyguysteve]

I'm must confess, I learned a lot on this build log. But.... if I was a-fishing and caught a fish that looked like this vessel..... I would quietly throw it back into the drink. And I would never discuss it with anyone.

    I find it very surprising that the maker of the kit chose this subject- gutsy or foolish I cannot tell but evidently a well designed effort!!!

   Great job on the model.

  Steve

[ccoyle]

3 hours ago, historyguysteve said:

But.... if I was a-fishing and caught a fish that looked like this vessel..... I would quietly throw it back into the drink. And I would never discuss it with anyone.

"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder," so they say. I rather like off-beat modeling subjects and lug rigs. BTW, halibut and orange roughy are excellent eating, but neither of them will ever win any piscine beauty contests. 😉

[Jim Rogers]

It took awhile for the sails to arrive from Russia and they were about 1/2 too long. Not being a seamstress and not going to tear apart the boat an re build I just rolled up the bottom. As I was sitting there looking at the model Imdecided it needed a base so I decided to experiment with a River Run Resin Base. First I purchased a live edge piece of Quilted Maple and cut it in half.

[Jim Rogers]

Next I laid it all out, checked clamping plan, and coated layout board with sheathing tape. The resin was mixed with Black Diamond Blue Cobalt powder and then poured. The sheet of wood in the middle is where the keel will rest. It is also wrapped with sheathing tape.

Edited September 26, 2018 by Jim Rogers

[Jim Rogers]

Lessons learned:

1. Don’t need the pre made groove. That is why God made a router.

2. When I poured the resin I brought right to the top of the wood. When I removed the clamps the resin had dropped about 1/8 inch. It has seeped under the wood. Next time I will mix a small batch and seal by painting it on between the bottom and the wood, and then pour the next day.

[Jim Rogers]

Sent it through the planer, polished it, mounted on blackened Maple, made acrylic case, added water action. Done

[ccoyle]

Nicely done, Jim! That is really eye-catching. I hope to start work on this kit soon, but I'm forcing myself to finish my current card model first (1/33 scale Brewster Buffalo -- love the plane, kit not so much).

 

Cheers!

[mtaylor]

Beautifully done,  Jim.   I two am a fan of the "different than normal" models.   The case and water base look great and add a lot to the model.

[Viggen]

Beautiful and inspirational finish! 

 

[Nirvana]

Jim,

Very nice build log.
What's next to build?