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Reale De France by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60


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"In previous posts I mentioned that I had to lower the height of the stern yoke.

Well, I lowered it too far!

I had to put a temporary shim of about 1MM under the beam in order to properly finish installing the supports and have the correct curve of the beam."

 

Dear Frank, mainly your report induced me to order the reale kit 4 weeks ago. Thanks for the excellent description and the pictures illustrating the progress in a very impressive way. Your efforts and success to work such accurately is an ever lasting motivation.

Since I am just beginning to dry fit the frames and the keels, I have a question regarding the corretion of the height of the stern yoke: Was it necessary since it was placed on the deck planking and the thickness of the planking is not incorporated in the Corel-plans? During dry fitting of parts 1-38 (Corel) I could not detect such a problem.

Thanks a lot for your valuable report.

Clark 

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15 minutes ago, Clark said:

"In previous posts I mentioned that I had to lower the height of the stern yoke.

Well, I lowered it too far!

I had to put a temporary shim of about 1MM under the beam in order to properly finish installing the supports and have the correct curve of the beam."

 

Dear Frank, mainly your report induced me to order the reale kit 4 weeks ago. Thanks for the excellent description and the pictures illustrating the progress in a very impressive way. Your efforts and success to work such accurately is an ever lasting motivation.

Since I am just beginning to dry fit the frames and the keels, I have a question regarding the corretion of the height of the stern yoke: Was it necessary since it was placed on the deck planking and the thickness of the planking is not incorporated in the Corel-plans? During dry fitting of parts 1-38 (Corel) I could not detect such a problem.

Thanks a lot for your valuable report.

Clark 

Hi Clark,

Thank you for your post and kind comments! 

I am enjoying this build and I hope you will too.

 

I think you figured out the problem with my stern yoke.

I lowered the notch by 2 mm on the right side. I went about 1mm too far. (I noticed this as I was installing the supports near the yoke.) The forward yoke was perfect.

So I am off about 1mm.

I went back to some of my photos after I read your post.

Sure enough,

The yoke near the bow sits on the false deck, not on my deck planking (see photo below)

137Reale.thumb.JPG.673c1f9fd6fd7b2375bef41acb44cb13.JPG

While the stern yoke sits on my planking

136Reale.thumb.JPG.b7575d3d75ed70e1a32617e63fc825ff.JPG

My planking is about .75 mm thick, which must have been the difference. The stern yoke is sitting higher by about the same amount I filed down!!

So, in hind site, I should have installed the yoke first and then planked up to the yoke.

Good catch Clark.

The more worrisome aspect to me was that the distance of the notches from the center of the ship, on both the stern and bow yokes and on both sides, were further out than all the supports.

Anyway, it all was easy to fix, and so far so good!

I am moving slowly and trying to think things through as a go.

Thanks again for your thoughts and also to everyone for the "likes"

 

Frank

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

 

I'm sure this post will be a little repetitive, but I do feel that the upper deck supports on the port side is going a little bit smoother. I did learn a few lessons from the first side.

 

As on the starboard side, I cutout and finished the 70 supports for the port side.

 

204Reale.thumb.jpeg.caf26b70e8cadd2ab2dbf011a8a6b0fd.jpeg

 

Then I trimmed the fwd yoke and aft yoke to set the distance from the center line to be the same and I lowered the height of the step on the aft yoke to match the work I did on the starboard side.

As on the first side, and per the instructions, I fitted and glued the two supports in the middle, but this time I also placed a support halfway in-between the aft yoke and center and a support half way in-between the fwd yoke and center, in order to help set the curve of the beam to more accurately follow the contour of the deck.

205Reale.thumb.jpeg.20b98cd109e4727c4042dddd579378ca.jpeg

 

This photo shows the curve of the beam

206Reale.thumb.jpeg.eb25957857fd5456085a112a5ed59da1.jpeg

207Reale.thumb.jpeg.7478fb68e1d796a90606c462d470f6ed.jpeg

 

I'm now on my way to finishing the rest of the supports. I'm about halfway done.

 

208Reale.thumb.jpeg.3846c3253d74548d8ad813ad0ce21d74.jpeg

209Reale.thumb.jpg.fceb39d64d4b8706b7ee361734a05395.jpg

 

I hope to be done fitting the supports in the next couple of weeks.

(Having limited time on the work bench due to wedding responsibilities in the next week :)  )

 

Thanks for stopping by,

 

Frank

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Nice work Frank👍 on a very tricky phase. I wish I had paid a little more attention in this area on mine as there is a slight rise at the center.

 

Michael D.

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On 5/10/2019 at 10:52 AM, safemaster said:

Nice work Frank👍 on a very tricky phase. I wish I had paid a little more attention in this area on mine as there is a slight rise at the center.

 

Michael D.

Hi Michael,

Thanks for your comments!

I hope the slight rise at the center of your build is not noticeable :)

 

I'll be glad to get thru this phase of the build soon!

Frank

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello!

 

After a couple of weeks of distractions (fun- Wedding, not so fun - Sick father), I was finally able to finish the upper supports on the left, or port side.

Things went a little smoother. As I mentioned before, I learned a few tricks from the first side.

 

Some photos of the port side

210Reale.thumb.jpeg.e332a0a37f01b67433f51882ec50d9c8.jpeg

211Reale.thumb.jpeg.3ef5228250b535eae0b8deecdfc51f0a.jpeg

212Reale.thumb.jpg.9e1292fb37b4571bfdec176fbc3b4788.jpg

213Reale.thumb.jpeg.54fbe534906e141529ed66ec5247c67e.jpeg

214Reale.thumb.jpg.de510f688153cb5245d4088719b2b744.jpg

215Reale.thumb.jpeg.a289f19fc67c8ee112f223ff14966d6e.jpeg

 

Now I will turn my attention to working on the beams that I had the supports clamped to.

 

Thanks for visiting,

 

Frank

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

I've been back at it working on the 2 end beams (port and starboard) that the upper supports I just finished above are attached to.

The instructions call for a 4mm high by 3mm wide piece of wood.

Then, later in the build, i'm supposed to add a 1mm thick piece of decorative wood supplied that would make the beam a 4mm by 4mm square.

Looking at this next photo of the decorative piece supplied, I thought it was a well done strip. There are a few things I wanted to change, however, so I decided to make the decorative strips from scratch.

The green arrow points to the walnut squares. I wanted to make these squares, using some type of red wood. The red arrow shows a walnut piece along the bottom edge. I wanted to make this piece a painted red piece. 

216Reale.thumb.jpeg.938e7f5669ecb6699c84b682a25b141a.jpeg

 

Earlier in my log, I was introduced to Gimo and he showed me his wonderful scratch built Reale. I modified some of his steps he used in making this decorative strip. Thank you Gimo for helping me with your log photos!!

 

I was able to buy a couple of pieces of a wood called "Redheart" to see if this would work for the project.

217Reale.thumb.jpeg.3d08f100f0af8f3c111ffc11f6462cdf.jpeg

218Reale.thumb.jpeg.96329f08655942e4ef9c02887b8471df.jpeg

I cut some of the red heart and also some bass wood into strips and ran them through my thickness sander and glued them together.

219Reale.thumb.jpeg.978fda5ebe03505b07992eff55e345eb.jpeg

220Reale.thumb.jpeg.b4fdcd506a6e3b0096e9a7cc360871b4.jpeg

 

The next step was to cut some more bass wood and glue them to the sides

221Reale.thumb.jpeg.04a428fc69a051954a0a6c8bf971a182.jpeg

 

Using a small table saw, I cut the assembled strips into small pieces and glued them onto the walnut beam from the kit wood.

222Reale.thumb.jpeg.0396ca9f390009d6dd3d76c0fd604dfd.jpeg

 

Next I ran the long strip through the thickness sander and made it 3 MM wide

223Reale.thumb.jpeg.3575e72ada299257c03d0419083d8959.jpeg

Then I fed it through the thickness sander again and thinned down the width to 4MM

224AReale.thumb.jpeg.f2f276362503bfc56dc16901d5cff2fe.jpeg

 

So now I have a 4mm wide by 3mm high assembled piece.

I will make a 1mm piece to paint red and glue to the bottom, making it a 4mm by 4mm piece.

 

Also, I didn't want the decorative strip going all the way to each end, so I added a piece of white wood that will be painted red on each end.

225Reale.thumb.jpeg.885315598e14a62da016e53d37796479.jpeg

 

So, now I have to make the strip for the opposite side of the model, then do some light staining and sealing for the above piece.

After this, I will add that 1mm thick red painted strip and glue the beams to the end of the supports.

 

Thanks for visiting and for all the "likes" 

 

Frank

 

 

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Finishing up the end beams.

 

I had three goals in mind when I decided to make the end beam decoration from scratch.

I think I accomplished 2 of them :)

 

The first goal was to make the checkered pieces out of a red wood to highlight the red.

I succeeded until I applied a light stain to darken up the light wood to match the deck. 

While the light oak stain did not change the red on a sample piece I applied it to, it did darken the red on the trim I made. I think this was because when i cut the red wood, I used the ends for the squares and it must have absorbed the stain more.

Anyway, I still like the result, since the light wood was darkened a bit.

226Reale.thumb.jpeg.9e622a6004f85dbb005b7e63886eaf0e.jpeg

 

Mu second goal was to add a finished red painted piece to the bottom, making the beam a 4mm by 4mm piece. I extended the red painted piece another .5 mm out from the decorative piece. I think this will look better than having it flush, as was the decorative piece supplied with the kit (shown in my previous post)

Later in the build, a red painted top piece will be added, extending out the same amount.

227Reale.thumb.jpeg.4194c94818ba7a3d67370f71768cf535.jpeg

 

My third goal was to not have the decorative squares run out to each end, but to frame it with painted red sections on each end. I also chamfered the ends.

228Reale.thumb.jpeg.dc6070a2ae6c9dea3ffde1355c139cf4.jpeg

 

The Beams attached to the model

229Reale.thumb.jpeg.030cb398e3315e475b32e2aeb593a5bf.jpeg

230Reale.thumb.jpeg.8f64b1a95797210739407b86daf808fe.jpeg

231Reale.thumb.jpg.861f1b413524c8ff320736e359e24ffb.jpg

232Reale.thumb.jpeg.b000febf3196a2d5dfc08068319014d3.jpeg

233Reale.thumb.jpeg.190645b900db42e6d41bb6f542439931.jpeg

Next I have to remove the model from the base and flip it over to work on the underside.

I have to figure out a way to safely support the model, while it is flipped.

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

 

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WOA is right - looks awesome,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Excellent!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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She's really taking shape now Frank!, your craftsmanship is superb my friend. I didn't find it necessary to flip mine completely, just rolled on it's side resting on bubble wrap.

 

Michael D.

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45 minutes ago, safemaster said:

She's really taking shape now Frank!, your craftsmanship is superb my friend. I didn't find it necessary to flip mine completely, just rolled on it's side resting on bubble wrap.

 

Michael D.

Phil and Michael (md1400cs) Thank you both for your kind words!

 

Michael D. Thank you! my project tomorrow night will be to figure out the best way to work underneath. (I'll give it a try rolling it on its side)

My time working on this model has slowed, due the the unfortunate failing health of my father. (More important). Shuttling him back and forth to doctors appointments and tests etc. etc. 

I continue, however, to be very excited about working on the Reale model, and I look forward to getting to the work room as often as I can. She must have been an amazing ship in her time!!

 

Thanks,

Frank

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Hello,

Thanks to all for the "Likes"!!

 

Small update:

 

I took the model off the stand and I flipped it carefully onto some blocks, in order to work on the undersides.

234Reale.thumb.jpeg.8e32499a07d2b2a434299d1269871eb3.jpeg

 

The first step was to install a 2mm by 4mm beam on the mid section of the underside of the upper supports. Installing this beam on both sides made the upper deck supports very strong and stable.

235Reale.thumb.jpeg.bc3ee736ae4474c9e31a8123cb72545e.jpeg

236Reale.thumb.jpeg.a6f1bea7917332fa5af791fdfaea4494.jpeg

 

Of course, a little work was needed to get the beam to sit correctly. 

On both the fwd end yoke and stern yoke, I had to file down a little bit to seat the beam.

237Reale.thumb.jpeg.89dec607fdcb57927aafa57be35f595a.jpeg

Before beginning the underside planking, (which will be painted blue), I painted the beam the red I have been using.

238Reale.thumb.jpeg.3b55612d7a03f5eb6f4e03701acb07ff.jpeg

 

My next step will be to plank between the beam that was just installed, and the hull of the ship on both sides.

(See arrows in next photo)

239Reale.thumb.jpeg.387912d0995a945481f7b9d0a1c8fa2d.jpeg

 

Thanks for stopping by!!

 

Frank

 

 

 

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Frank,

 

Again - superb work.!!

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Thanks again for the "Likes"!!!

 

My next step was to finish planking between the middle underside beam and the hull of the model.

 

For the first plank, I gave it a couple of coats of the blue paint, so that I wouldn't have to mask the middle beam (which is painted red).

 

First plank glued to the supports.

240Reale.thumb.jpeg.5cd64c738cf529556361c0c151e23db4.jpeg

241Reale.thumb.jpeg.3d4cd2a3fdbf1880b0586f119682a6ca.jpeg

 

Finished planking both sides of the underside.

242Reale.thumb.jpeg.a01e4ff36ddac20c6a4ef03731912799.jpeg

243Reale.thumb.jpeg.0b7db749c86a94e02035c34d5a3d8f5f.jpeg

 

Finished painted planks on underside.

244Reale.thumb.jpeg.9ff1cfd8cafca14d2de676aef3242fa5.jpeg

245Reale.thumb.jpeg.37b24e620edf2d11a11e0098022e134c.jpeg


 

My next steps are to place a molding piece between the hull and the planks above.

Then I have to lay out and file slots onto the underside planking that were used to drain water from the 

upper deck.

 

Thanks for visiting

Frank

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  • 1 month later...

Hello,

 

It's been a while since my last post. I was able to get back to the model and make some more progress!

 

First, I cut some long trim pieces, 1mm by 1mm, and painted them an antique gold.

They were attached to the underside where the under planking meets the hull.

246Reale.thumb.jpeg.d5f11483dc6d75dbf9e77c4490e45d18.jpeg

Now I had to layout the cutting of 63 slots, that was there for water runoff of the deck. I marked the width and length of where the slots would go.

247Reale.thumb.jpeg.ff7c6efdf1ea56fdcf57bac7f2f6fee9.jpeg

 

My first step was to drill small holes to give me an opening to start filing for the slots.

248Reale.thumb.jpeg.3fd95200937b10f15e1f83a131d6e9a6.jpeg

 

63 slots had to be shaped on each side of the ship.

249Reale.thumb.jpeg.385fb5061857bccfbd99014c03e55025.jpeg

 

Slots finished 

250Reale.thumb.jpeg.5fbbd4c855207a6d101b50fdc2c64b87.jpeg

 

Added another trim piece, 1mm by 1mm, on the outer border of the slots

251Reale.thumb.jpeg.b64131cb09d87aee74e79c0c950f4b82.jpeg

253Reale.thumb.jpeg.c3b9216d53b774941641860a36f9027d.jpeg

 

The outer trim piece will be trimmed between the arrows on the fwd and aft side when I attach the lower support knees.

252Reale.thumb.jpeg.dbc298c2468ced0f18591b2fb10f2782.jpeg

 

254Reale.thumb.jpeg.40a1b475acff4a6c62344c9e3b42182e.jpeg

 

I still have the lower support knees to install and some more trim pieces, before I can turn the ship back over to work on the top side.

 

Thanks for visiting,

 

Frank

 

 

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Excellent work!

 

The Admiral just bought me the plans for La Reale from AAMM (the French NMM) for my birthday.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

I have added some more detail to the underside of the model, while I had the ship still flipped over.

 

I cutout and shaped the knees that sit under the underside planking.

255Reale.thumb.jpeg.65778c6c764a711a945ebdf905f7c744.jpeg

256Reale.thumb.jpeg.e29555bea5335a26ee151d04d27bfd5b.jpeg

 

Each knee was a different length and the end against the hull had to be contoured to the hull curve. Also, as you can see in this photo, I had to remove the trim piece that I mistakenly glued to the edge. (See last post)

257Reale.thumb.jpeg.c76bf5583d12ad0e97d52197aa113150.jpeg

 

Painted knees near the bow

258Reale.thumb.jpeg.e069537374013803a53ccdcf718070d4.jpeg

 

Knees finished on both sides near the stern

259Reale.thumb.jpeg.68be1e5657ff5fcd83a457f0c31fe6e6.jpeg

 

Knees finished both sides near the bow

260Reale.thumb.jpeg.0b96dede9291be98cf255ebb360cadcb.jpeg

 

I added more of the 1mm by 1mm gold painted trim or molding. (See green arrows).

This was easier to do with the model upside down. The plans call for another trim piece to be added flush with the forward deck planking (see red arrow), but I decided to wait until I finish planking the bow area later in the build.

261Reale.thumb.jpeg.20d422bdabc52e0d53d6e9a885c09efb.jpeg

 

The molding extended all the way to the keel at the stern. (See green arrows). I soaked the 1mm wood and then heated it with a curling iron so that it would bend around the stern area.

262Reale.thumb.jpeg.38141cd1ed90d873c51992c86e3923ef.jpeg

263Reale.thumb.jpeg.28e78c0413774695cc23d2c8ea00022d.jpeg

 

I will check for touch up painting where necessary and then put the model back on the stand to continue working on the topsides.

 

Thanks for visiting and for the "likes"

It is always appreciated!

 

Frank

 

 

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11 hours ago, RickyGene said:

I have no words!  There are builders, then there are the craftsman and then you have the artisans.  You sir fit all of them.

Szczena_opad_a.jpg

Thank you for your kind comments!

It is appreciated!

I got a good chuckle from your photo!

 

Thanks for stopping by,

Frank

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Hello Frank,

Beautiful work, she`ll be a wonderful ship...., when completed

 

Nils

 

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Frank,

Looking brilliant as you get deeper into this complicated build

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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