Glue Recommendations

[Garward]

I meant a large amount of glues like PVA and the epoxy glues which are let out in the different countries and some of different among themselves, and also, for example, electroconductive glue.

[Garward]

Some grades of glue applied by Russians and the Ukrainian modellers, it is possible to look here http://shipmodeling.ru/shop/category/16/section/112/

http://www.modelsworld.ru/shop/category245.php

[ortho85]

I was cruising the forum for tips on glues, and found this thread (among many!).  The mention of new glues made me hit Google.

 

I'm an orthodontist, and started back in the 70s when we were searching for ways to stick braces on teeth.  We tried CAs, but they had short lifespans under oral conditions.  We now (for the past 35 years) use a composite resin.

 

However, one glue tested back then was that produced by mussels to stick themselves to rocks.  As I recall, it was too strong for use on humans.

 

My point?  Here's a new(ish) glue for you all to "beat up on" - http://sciencenordic.com/synthetic-mussel-adhesive-sticks-anything

 

Cheers!

 

Brett

[janet bode]

 iWhen i open a CA bottle i always print the date on it that way i know its age.

                                        Regards: janet B

[Modeler12]

one glue tested back then was that produced by mussels to stick themselves to rocks.  As I recall, it was too strong for use on humans.

 

My point?  Here's a new(ish) glue for you all to "beat up on" - http://sciencenordic.com/synthetic-mussel-adhesive-sticks-anything

 

Cheers!

 

Brett

Brett, this is very interesting; another 'let's see what Mother Nature has done' and take it from there.

The article is fairly new and I wonder if this is going someplace in 'industry'.

 

However, I am in the middle of 'ungluing' a bunch of spars and lines and hate to think of a glue that repairs itself instantaneously.

[Q A's Revenge]

Hi.

I also use varnish ( of the right colour ) to glue gratings.

Regards Antony.

Only just seen this Anthony. Is it really strong enough? Sounds like a good idea though, gratings can be fiddly. Fancy doing a tutorial? :-)

 

Vic.

[mspringer]

I am currently working on a plastic Connie (like lots of others...) and I am about to the point of replacing and gluing the plastic eyebolts with metal.  I am going to use 5 minute epoxy so was very happy to find this thread since I have never worked with it. 

 

Mark

[Yambo]

I am currently working on a plastic Connie (like lots of others...) and I am about to the point of replacing and gluing the plastic eyebolts with metal.  I am going to use 5 minute epoxy so was very happy to find this thread since I have never worked with it. 

 

Mark

 

5 minutes may be + or - Mark depending on temperature and other factors. As with all epoxy though, the key is in the mixing. It may take half an hour to go off completely so if what you are glueing is under tension forget the five minutes - treat that as usable time - and clamp up as you would with other glues. 

 

As with most things, a small test first is always useful; old army saying "Time spent on a recce is never wasted."

[Paulene]

Good morning I am a Activities director for an Assisted Living Facility and I  have had  several model wooden ships and plastic model planes donated and i need to know what kind of wood glue and plastic glue they should be using.  Please speak la-mans terms to me on this as i have never dealt with models before.  Thank you Paulene

[mtaylor]

For plastic models, generally you'll need plastic model glue.  For wood, just about any wood glue will work.  

[allanyed]

Assuming you are going to order on line or perhaps venture out to a Home Depot or Lowes or such, stay simple.

Avoid CA (Super Glue)  glues as the fumes are noxious and the elderly folks unfamiliar with it may have mishaps gluing their fingers to the model or each other.  

For plastic,  good old plastic model glue like Testors Plastic Model Glue TES3501 or similar.  Found in hobby shops, on line, etc.   

For wood, any brand carpenters glue.   Titebond Aliphatic Glue (commonly called carpenter's yellow glue,) or Elmers Carpenters Wood glue are great choices  and easily found on line or in any builder's store.  

Hope they have fun with these!!   

Allan

 

[Bob Blarney]

I usually use ordinary Titebond, and Titebond makes a "Quick & Thick" PVA glue too.  Occasionally I use a CA wood glue or polyurethane.  But I still use Behlen's hot hide glue too if something might need to be disassembled, but do not use Franklin Liquid Hide Glue. 

Edited April 10, 2020 by Bob Blarney

[allanyed]

I am pretty sure hide glue is not useful for plastic, and considering this is for use by retired folks in assisted living, it is probably not appropriate even for wood unless they have a shop, melting pot, &c.  Just my take on this specific situation as I envision a meeting room with few if any shop amenities.

Allan

Edited April 10, 2020 by allanyed

[Roger Pellett]

Pauline,

 

You might also want to let your clients look at the model kits and make a recommendation.   assuming that they are elderly you will find someone who built models earlier in life.

 

Roger

[Jorge Hedges]

On 4/26/2013 at 10:02 PM, Dee_Dee said:

Does CA glue have a ‘shelf life’?  Specifically, AFTER the bottle has been opened? 

 

Reason I ask, is for the past few months, I’ve been using a bottle of ‘Mercury Adhesives M300M’, orange label, medium viscosity, 2 ounce bottle.  Starting yesterday, this glue will not ‘set up’ and 'do its job.'  Today, I squirted some on to a piece of cardboard and two hours later, it was still sticky and ‘gloopy’ (a technical term.)  There’s about 15% left in the bottle (bottom of the label.)  I’m positive I did not contaminate the glue and always keep the cap on the bottle. 

 

With just 15% left in the bottle, is there too much air in the bottle?

 

The obvious fix is going forward I’ll stick with the one ounce bottles.  But I’m just curious why this happened.  ……Yes, I know what ‘they’ say about the curious cat.

 

It sounds like I use a lot of CA, but I don’t.  When I do use it, I squirt some onto cardboard and then apply with the tip of a bamboo skewer.  More than half of what goes onto the cardboard is still on the cardboard, no cross contamination as one side is for CA and the other for Elmer’s and separate bamboo skewers for each.   

 

Thanks

 

Dee Dee

After opening CA, I store it in the fridge.  It is the humidity of the air that causes the CA, with time, to become "gloopy" and "non-stickiness".  I live in Puerto Rico close to the beach, so the humidity tends to damage/render useless CA if left out for some time.  I have had to throw away half-full CA bottles, until I was told about the fridge trick.  And mid you, I use Titebond II for my wood work; CA is for minor stuff and plastic and resin military miniature builds (1/35 scale)… a whole different world!

 

[Raginnis]

I am building an R/C wooden model speedboat. The hull  is 8mm x 2mm planks which I have fitted using Gorilla Glue. I am concerned over what glue to use for the Veneer overlay which is 20 x 0.75 mahogany? I would use PVA but is that waterproof and will it sand off where it oozes through the joints?

All suggestions gratefully received!

Many thanks

 

[Canute]

Titebond III is waterproof.