The Sullivans DD-537 by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:350 - PLASTIC

[lmagna]

Sorry you are having such a hard time getting things like you want them Jack.

It is probably too late for this model but you may want to try these paints:

http://trucolorpaint.com/

 

I have no personal experience with them but others are saying that they are very similar to Floquil.

Edited December 13, 2018 by lmagna

[Jack12477]

Thanks, Lou, I will check them out.

[popeye the sailor]

a few touch ups....it will look fine    it's hard to look under the decks anyway.  I'm using a brush on the Vendetta........to me it seems a bit too thick too.

     I guess I feel like I'm in the same boat........it's one of the pluses with wood.......at least the paint will sink into the wood.   all you can do is double check the thickness of the paint,  before you apply it.  practice on the sprues beforehand.   while it does seem too dark,  if it's the color scheme,  it can't be wrong.   don't critique yourself to despair  

[Canute]

The Trucolor paints are acetone based, so mask up and glove up. They do have a slew of colors. This is the rejuvenated Accu-paint line of many years ago.

 

Model building experts amongst the model RR fraternity recommend priming under this paint. It doesn't adhere to resins and some plastics. So I'd recommend a priming taping test on the plastic. Spray your primer on one half of your test piece, let dry, lay some masking tape across the primer and the bare plastic. Spray or brush your color and let dry. Remove the tape and see what gets pulled off.

[ScottRC]

1 hour ago, Canute said:

The Trucolor paints are acetone based, so mask up and glove up. They do have a slew of colors. This is the rejuvenated Accu-paint line of many years ago.

 

Model building experts amongst the model RR fraternity recommend priming under this paint. It doesn't adhere to resins and some plastics. So I'd recommend a priming taping test on the plastic. Spray your primer on one half of your test piece, let dry, lay some masking tape across the primer and the bare plastic. Spray or brush your color and let dry. Remove the tape and see what gets pulled off.

I agree about priming under just about any paint. I build a lot in 1/700 and use acrylics. I will do a light base coat primer, usually Krylon flat white or Tamiya gray primer, then will either brush or airbrush light coats of thinned base color.  It's important to keep the coats light and thinned because it's so easy to get the paint thickness to appear out of scale and cover up details.  Priming does a number of positive things; it brings out any blemishes that can be corrected, it gives a good biting surface for the paint to adhere to, and it allows you to adjust your base color hue from light to dark.

[cog]

I prime everything with either Tamiya rattlecan or Tamiya surface primer. The latter to touch up or for small items which I build/shape off model, and add later

 

You could add thinner/water to your paints, which is what I do even when using a brush. You might need an extra layer, but it doesn't look sluggish. The deck of my model Tribal Destroyers are painted by hand with Vallejo Air mixture 1 prt Prussian Blue (71 109), 4 prt Steel Blue (71 087), 13 prt Blue Grey (71 115). On top of that I use White, brown, red, yellow, cobalt blue and black pastels, applied with a small hard bristled brush (pigs hair) round straight tipped. I found that the colour is still to dark, so next build I will have it mixed with 10 - 25% light grey to tone it to scale

example: the superstructures B-turret platform

Edited December 13, 2018 by cog

[Jack12477]

I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (L) in the rattle can to prime everything first, either the flat gray or gloss white.. Depending on the part, I will spray prime the whole sprue and then cut the part(s) free from the sprue.

 

While I love Floquil paints and used them for years, their DiSol thinner was Xylene based and that's a nasty chemical to be around.  Always had to have large box fans running, and windows open when using it, whether by brush or air-brush didn't matter.  Eventually switched over to their water based PolyS brand, which had the same colors and fine pigments as Floquil but without the nasty chemical.  Now I'm strictly water based acrylics. So I guess the acetone based True Color is off the table as a choice.  Too much of a hassle otherwise. Too much like using the old Floquil.

 

Carl, are those artist quality chalk sticks you're showing in the photo above? Or the sidewalk chalk kids use ? I have something similar but they are in little square boxes (one color per box) each box about 1 inch cubed. But not the fancy box like yours

 

[BETAQDAVE]

6 hours ago, lmagna said:

you may want to try these paints:

http://trucolorpaint.com/

 

I have no personal experience with them but others are saying that they are very similar to Floquil.

    If that is true that they are as good then I would gladly buy them as Floquil was my favorite despite the fumes.  I still have a few bottles from the 60's that are still usable. (As opposed to Model Expos, which even when freshly bought are often just colored hockey pucks in a jar.)

[RGL]

You will pretty much lose all PE detail unless you airbrush your top coats. Especially when you modulate your colours. There are some excellent tutorials on U-Tube by AK interactive or look at @Koppalakki masterpiece build on shipmodelworld world for his Yamato. I learnt so much from him on that build. 

[cog]

Jack those are Schmincke pastels, artists quality, as the "grain" is much finer

[cog]

1 hour ago, RGL said:

You will pretty much lose all PE detail unless you airbrush your top coats. Especially when you modulate your colours. There are some excellent tutorials on U-Tube by AK interactive or look at @Koppalakki masterpiece build on shipmodelworld world for his Yamato. I learnt so much from him on that build. 

Indeed what you can achieve ... unfortunately not really how ..

[RGL]

I hyperlinked his build on that site on my Yamato build. There is a fair bit of how to. 

[cog]

I refered to his build of big mo here at MSW

[Jack12477]

I've been following his build here of the Mighty Mo.  Very impressive work.   Yes, Greg, I have been slowing coming to the same conclusion about brush work obliterating the PE detail.  I guess I got spoiled by Floquil because it didn't much matter where you hand brushed or air-brushed it on. Guess I have to learn new tricks

[Old Collingwood]

Jack what I did with Warspite build - was to thin the paint and apply it in almost watery (well like thin milk) it looks like it isnt covering with the first layer or two,  but as you apply more thin layers it does even out and give a smooth but not over thick finish.

I love working with  these - Acrylic paints, they come in gift sets designed to match certain naval colors of different time frames.

 

Hope this helps a bit.

 

OC.

[Jack12477]

Thanks, OC. I have the WW II US Navy set (2 boxes/sets of 6 colors) from LifeColor - found a US source online in New Jersey that ships next business day.  That's what I've been using, except I did not thin them down, just used straight out of the bottle. I'll try thinning them down.

[RGL]

Found it, I’m sure Mr K does not mind. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=163104&hilit=Yamato

[Old Collingwood]

30 minutes ago, Jack12477 said:

Thanks, OC. I have the WW II US Navy set (2 boxes/sets of 6 colors) from LifeColor - found a US source online in New Jersey that ships next business day.  That's what I've been using, except I did not thin them down, just used straight out of the bottle. I'll try thinning them down.

It makes a Massive difference jack  and as carl knows  - I force dry my paint layers between each coat using a hairdryer,  also  try alternating the painting direction  anotherwords  - first layer  front to back and around obstructions the apply heat, then  the  second layer  from  back to front and again around obstructions  then apply heat again  - and  just repeat  till you see a dried smooth finish.

 

OC.

[Jack12477]

Thank OC. That is how I paint, one direction, don't drag brush back over itself when painting. My artist son taught me that.  I'll have to experiment with hair dryer, have one I use for heat bending wood ala Chuck's technique.

[Javlin]

10 hours ago, RGL said:

Found it, I’m sure Mr K does not mind. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=163104&hilit=Yamato

 If you notice Kopp is "black basing" with the airbrush for shadow effects(even 1/350 ) to give depth/character to the individual pieces which I have never consider for ships?I have used the technique on some 1/32 A/C mainly a B25.We all could learn a bit from Kopp.

 

As to the glue I have and recommend the Gator glue  http://www.gatorsmask.com/paintmask.html  and you will notice he has mask for ships!I thought at one point he did some paints but he's good to deal with.If you think you may want to continue in the plastic medium and PE I P/U from  http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_79  some of the folders I have used abit on the B-25 but will come in handy when I get back to the Eugen.A destroyer is a good learning curve to work with. Kevin

[Javlin]

1 hour ago, Jack12477 said:

Thank OC. That is how I paint, one direction, don't drag brush back over itself when painting. My artist son taught me that.  I'll have to experiment with hair dryer, have one I use for heat bending wood ala Chuck's technique.

That would have to be one low setting.

[Jack12477]

5 minutes ago, Javlin said:

That would have to be one low setting.

It has multiple heat settings as well as fan speed settings and I can hold it far enough away to keep it from melting the plastic.  I think it just needs warm dry air to cure the paint quicker.  Or I can just be patient and wait for it to cure on its own.

[Jack12477]

5 hours ago, Javlin said:

I P/U from  http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_79  some of the folders I have used abit on the B-25

Thanks for the link, Kevin, but I already have a hold and fold from The Small Shop in Oregon which I've been using on this build for some of the PE.

[Jack12477]

Some updates:

 

Got the main superstructures glued to the deck along with the tiny deck apparatus and then glued the deck to the hull.  After totally mangling the PE Brass stairs (only 2 on the PE strip) I ended up using the molded plastic stairs from the kit.  Now to tackle the PE brass radar mast and the stern depth charge racks, then figure our where the railings go, if any.  A fellow modeler sent me a pictorial book on the Fletcher class destroyers, so I do have a ton of reference photos from the time period to look at.  I'm not drilling any new holes in the deck until I complete the railings and depth charge racks.

 

Got some messed up glue joints to clean up and repaint and some other minor touch ups. And I even used a sewing needle to apply the glue so it wouldn't smear and it still smeared anyway.

 

 

 

Edited December 18, 2018 by Jack12477

[lmagna]

Great progress Jack.

 

Good to see that you haven't lost your shipyard for the duration of the holiday season like some of us! 

[Jack12477]

No but the rest of the fleet had to leave their safe harbor to make way for the Carolers.  Fortunately the shipyard is in the cellar, altho it is getting a little crowded down there at the moment.  [For those who don't recognize them these are the Byers Choice Carolers.]

 

 

 

[lmagna]

WOW

I don't dare show those pictures to my wife! She has collected the Byers Figures for years. She and my daughter-in-law would make a special trip to their visitor's center in PA and buy one or two figures when she went to visit them every year. But she doesn't have nearly that many! Now the kids don't live in PA anymore so she hasn't bought any for a couple of years, but if she sees your wife's collection she probably will start reminding me that I am a terrible husband berate me for not getting her more for her collection like you have done for your wife. (It does not make any difference if you bought them for her or not, that will still be the standard I will be judged by!)

Edited December 18, 2018 by lmagna

[Jack12477]

There's a family owned grocery chain in NY based out of Rochester called Wegmans.  They produced these figures including the table for Wegmans. This is just part of her collection.  A little bread, cheese, wine and some chocolate cake for the holidays

 

Edited December 18, 2018 by Jack12477

[popeye the sailor]

there's always online Lou........nudge,  nudge  

 

you've made some good progress Jack..........looks very good    that;s the one thing I dislike about plastic model cement......I am forever touching up the oozes.   they stick out like a sore thumb with flat paint.  still looks great.   I remember the gang....the admiral used to be into the ceramic houses.  I used to help her by refining the windows...cutting out the 'flash'.   since she fell back in '94,  slowly she lost interest in it.  

    quite a collection of figures.......I showed them to the admiral {I ain't scared ....anything to jog her}  

[cog]

There is always some touchup to do, and for smearing ... practise, practise, practise ... it does look easy PPE ...