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Posted (edited)

Moving right along.  Grate material arrived today in the mail so finished making my last grate..... just haven't glued them in place yet to be sure I don't crowd other things that need to be made yet like the bell housing.

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Edited by Daliab
Posted

I have a question.  When you laid out your gunpoint openings using the cardboard pattern supplied with the kit, did you have any openings with a bulkhead showing in the opening? I laid my pattern on the side to check it before planking and a couple ports would have a bulkhead showing in the side of the port. I'm thinking I may have to shift a couple ports about a 1/4  inch.

 

Mark Frazier 

Posted

I'm building the Panart bow section and definitely had to move the ports- this and other patterns I have used are usually only guides. Try a small center hole and see - remember also height of sills relate to the cannon/deck height which may not be the same as allowed for by the pattern. 

current build- Swan ,scratch

on shelf,Rattlesnake, Alert semi scratch,Le Coureur,, Fubbs scratch

completed: nostrum mare,victory(Corel), san felipe, sovereign of the seas, sicilian  cargo boat ,royal yacht caroline, armed pinnace, charles morgan whaler, galilee boat, wappen von hamburg, la reale (Dusek), amerigo vespucci, oneida (semi scratch) diane, great harry-elizabethan galleon (semi scratch), agammemnon, hanna (scratch).19th cent. shipyard diorama (Constructo), picket boat, victory bow section

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, mfrazier said:

I have a question.  When you laid out your gunpoint openings using the cardboard pattern supplied with the kit, did you have any openings with a bulkhead showing in the opening? I laid my pattern on the side to check it before planking and a couple ports would have a bulkhead showing in the side of the port. I'm thinking I may have to shift a couple ports about a 1/4  inch.

 

Mark Frazier 

Yeah, you need to be careful when you mark the openings of the gun ports. What I did was to draw a pencil line from the top deck down to the waterline. There isn't much room between gun ports and the bulkheads. If you get the bottom row good, you may find a bulkhead that interferes with a gun port in on row 2. The gun ports you want to keep an eye on are the ones closest to the stern side galleries and the 2 ports close to the steering wheel. I found the best place to start was the curved arch by those ports. If you get the port to close to the curved arch position, you'll have a different problem.  I did end up getting a bulkhead close to one of the gun port openings and took a X-Acto and trimmed it back and painted it black.

STUGLO was correct in his quote of "height of sills relate to the cannon/deck height which may not be the same as allowed for by the pattern".  The six gun port openings for the six cannons on the top deck were an issue for me.  Those six gun port openings could have been moved up about 1/8".  When I installed the cannons, the barrels couldn't be placed in the openings.  The barrels keep hitting the top of the gun port opening. I had to cut the wheels on those and place the cannon frame on the deck and glue the wheels to the side.  In addition, I had to aim the cannons down a little bit.

 

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Edited by Daliab
Posted

thanks for the link. our kits are the same except yours has the copper plates , life boats , and ships wheel. Mine actually came with the life boats and wheels so the only thing I am missing is the copper plates which I didn't care about anyway. Every bit helps.

 

Mark Frazier

Posted

Moving from the bow to the quarter deck.

Still nee to do the twin stairs to the quarter deck and finish the stern.

Rain is expected all weekend so hopefully I'll get to work on the lifeboats and hammock holders/netting.

 

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Posted (edited)

I have been trying g to figure out the sides up towards the front of the deck.    ( the instructions say nothing and the print is hard to tell). How does the kit say to do this? Is there a "layer" of planks on the outside edge with a cap rail on top? and the post rails just inside them? This kit seems to handle this area differently than the other builds I  have looked at.

 

Mark Frazier

 

Your build is looking really good.

Edited by mfrazier
Info
Posted (edited)

Worked on the stern, installed the hammock-netting on two of the smaller banisters, quarter deck gallery, and a couple of the fife rails.  Even managed to start one of the lifeboats.

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Edited by Daliab
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Haven't been able to work on the Vic lately.  Having to remove old decking off of my 36 x 50 foot backyard deck and replacing it with composite decking.  I thought working on the Vic took a lot of time.  The last couple of rainy days has allowed me to work on one of the lifeboats.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Deck is done and now I'm back to building the Victory.  I don't know what took longer, putting on the new composite on the deck or installing all of the hammock netting on the Victory.  Finally got done with both.

20200622_193518_resized_1.jpg.226e1b8950efe13d2def2647ab2545e6.jpg   20200622_193650_resized_1.jpg.0aedb4de5cbc5269946f46f3bc3e2ae3.jpg  

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

All channels and lanterns installed.

Anyone notice the difference between the number of deadeyes that are on the model's middle channel and what is shown on the blueprints?

Only one of a number of inconsistencies between the model and the instructions/blueprints supplied.

 

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20200702_140213_resized.jpg.de0ea4c9bf40efa93d0dcab85abe5e00.jpg

Posted

Kevin, one of the moderators on the website pointed out that he thought the small deadeye was incorrect in the above channel.

Upon further research, I went to John McKay's Anatomy of the ship, The 100-Gun Ship Victory.

He was correct.  The Mantua blueprint is incorrect.

 

The first picture is from the blueprint (INCORRECT INFO).  The second one is from John McKay's book (CORRECT INFO).

Thanks Kevin

 

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Posted

i deleted the message after i posted and went to find the book to give the info, but it has been put away, so  juat taken a photo of mine, no doubt thats wrong as well, but i went by mcKays and others, the fact that mine is the caldercraft should make no difference

IMG_6991.JPG

IMG_6992.JPG

Posted
13 minutes ago, Kevin said:

i deleted the message after i posted and went to find the book to give the info, but it has been put away, so  juat taken a photo of mine, no doubt thats wrong as well, but i went by mcKays and others, the fact that mine is the caldercraft should make no difference

IMG_6991.JPG

IMG_6992.JPG

Kevin, out of curiosity, where do the four of these lines go to on your model?

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Posted
10 hours ago, Daliab said:

 

10 hours ago, Daliab said:

Kevin, out of curiosity, where do the four of these lines go to on your model?

1.jpg.06960c84d6ed31d5044d4ebdf669fde4.jpg

i can try and answer later today, but im sure you will find the answer here, On Gil Middleton.s build, i tried and failed to copy his work

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks Kevin.  I've had that build log earmarked to view.  Only got half way through.... large build log.  BUT... great information towards the end.  Thanks for your comments.

Posted

Working on the bow and found an easier way to thread the rigging around the bowsprit.  Didn't have a needle long enough to thread the rigging around the the bowsprit but ended up gluing the thread to a thin piece of wood and used it as the needle.  Sure made it much easier.

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Posted

On my very first model, I put sails on it that were fully deployed.  This time, I decided to put sails on the Vic but have them furled.  This is my first attempt to add them to a ship furled. I didn't want to hide all of the rigging.  I tried this a couple of times and didn't like the sails so tight against the yards and ended up with is pictured below.   I wanted the sails to be a little loose to show some of the sail.  

 

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Posted

UPDATE: conversed via email with Tom Lauria about one of his posted videos.  He made a suggestion of using silkspan for the furled sails instead of the heavier weight fabric I used in the above picture.  I took his advice and and removed the furled sails and waiting for silkspan material to arrive in the mail Monday.  Let's see the difference.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Took Tom Lauria's advice and used silkspan for the sails instead of the lightest weight muslin the local fabric store carried. I think this one looks less bulky and when wet, it was much easier to fold and tie to the yard. I believe I will use silkspan on all of my furled sails.

 

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Posted

Looking great and glad to see you have made a brave decision to rig the sails!

 

You might find this thread about furling the sails useful... not sure how the other members tightened the sails on the yard ends with more slack near the mast in the middle but I think that would look fantastic on your model coming from someone who has never attempted it before.

 

 

Posted

Getting better making sliksapn sails.  Many will say that the furled sails are too loose.  You're right but, I wanted to expose more of the sails in a furled position than a sail rolled up in a tight mass.  To this novice, I think it looks better for the overall presentation of the model.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

While waiting for missing parts to arrive from model ship venders, I managed to build/mount all three masts.

Warning: For those who may order a Mantua/Panart HMS Victory 738 kit, I was missing 70 each 7mm single blocks, 11 each 7mm double blocks, the wrong size belaying pins.  Pins were to short to extend below the belaying rack holders to tie ropes on each one.  Some may say you should have done an inventory of pieces supplied.  Problem the kit they currently sell today is the same kit sold years ago and the instructions show pictures of stuff they don't even cover.  All of the accessories were packaged in a hard plastic units that were mounted on a cardboard panel.  You can't loose any pieces unless you open everything and loose track of the parts.  Unfortunately, you don't know what your missing until you get to that part of the build when those parts are needed.  I've emailed the Mantua vender in the UK where I purchased the kit from and still haven't heard back from them... don't expect to either.  The issue is with the worldwide pandemic, lots of modelers are spending time on their models.  I've noticed that a lot of suppliers are out of models and accessories parts with no date when they expect to be resupplied.  I do have to say that the Mantua/Panart HMS Victory 738 has been a fun build, just a little irritated that parts were missing.

 

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Posted

Taking a break on installing ratlines and moved to adding furled sails using silkspan.  I like the looser look on the furled sails and to me it may not be correct, but has a better presentation of the model's sails.

 

 20200813_150802_resized.thumb.jpg.f889de7e62e6cf18feeba2a6e7c3c0a1.jpg  

 

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Posted

Those sails looks fantastic, really nice job!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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