US Confederacy 1778 by Bossman - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64

[Bossman]

I have been asked to show my process for making eye hooks for a 3/32 block. I hope this explains it. It takes a bit of practice to get quick but as my daughter says, “when it clicks dad, it just clicks.”

 

I use 28 gauge annealed wire and a pair of modified hobby needle nose pliers.  The last 1/4” of one jaw of the pliers has been rounded Almost to a point. 
 

 

Grab the very end of the wire at the smallest end of the rounded jaw roll it into a loop. The loop should end up on top of the wire. 
 

 

Now put the flat jaw against the loop you just formed and bend back the opposite way and you have something of a figure 8. 

 

Snip the end of the last circle you just made and here is what you get. I hope these directions are satisfactory. 
 

[Bossman]

3 hours ago, Brucealanevans said:

Quick question:

I was curiously trying to fit the drop decoration metal piece underneath the quarter gallery. The instructions say it is notched for the wale, but it isn't, and for it to fit a truly prodigious amount of filing would be necessary to create a notch to allow it to lie against the sides so that the upper surface of the casting fits against the "floor" of the quarter gallery.

Is it supposed to be notched as the instructions imply/say? Do I need to request replacements if they are (now) notched?

I shudder to think of the work and metal dust that will be required/created to remove the amount of metal that would be necessary to create a fit.

What was your experience?

Bruce, I have a hard time remembering yesterday! I had a look at her and yes, I did file some notches. If you look at my post of April 20 you can see how they were filed.  It was only the lower small part that needed notches. I do not remember having a lot of difficulty though. It is very little filing if you look at the post. Let me know how it comes out. 
mark

[Bossman]

Thank you for all the likes folks! I have started on the cheeks and headrails which is new territory for this child. The bow sprint and figurehead is temporarily placed. It’s not anywhere near perfect but it’s the best bad eyes and shaking hands can do. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking too it. I need to tone down the colour on the figurehead before permanent mounting. 
 

[Bossman]

Thanks for the likes Gents! Moving on with the headrails. I have really had to hold a tight rein on myself. You cannot work too slow here. As for the moulding on the cheeks and headrails, I choose to only cut and score with a push pin. When I tried to fancy it up, it just did not work. When you are cutting with an exacto oR scoring with whatever you choose, if you get off track, move ahead and cut back to the line. If you try to correct going in the same direction, your tool just wants to follow the wrong cut. My observation anyway. Also, the photo etch decoration is much easier to apply with the part off the boat. Kind of like going down with a falling horse. Best get your leg out of the stirrup on the downside. You have a much better outcome. I’ve tried it both ways! This has been an exercise in patience and dedication for this child. 
 

 

[Bossman]

Good day Gents. Thank you all for the likes. I am almost finished with the bow. The headrails and timbers have tried my patience, dedication and skills. I wish I had a magic bullet to give others building this ship some help but the truth is I cut, shaped, fit and threw away more than I can count. In the end, it was all I could do. There were times when I had to remind myself this should be fun! Criticism and hints are welcome. 
 

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2020 by Bossman

[JohnB40]

Bossman,you are being way too critical of your head work. I've enjoyed looking in on your log and think you have done a really fine construction job of the Confederacy.

[Bossman]

John, thank you very much Sir! The junction of the middle rail and cat head supports really kicked my rear. As you know, we see every little mistake in our work. When something as difficult as this, for me anyway, they pile up pretty quick. After the 3rd or 4th time of making a piece and it’s still not right, sometimes you lose the will to do it again. I very much appreciated your kind words and glad to hear you are enjoying the build. 

[Robert29]

Just came across your build,  you've got some fine work going there Bossman.  Excellent work, very detailed. As John has already told you, you are being too critical to your work. I know how it feels sometimes when you are doing something and it doesn't come out to your own expectations, and in some way it is good because you go for that little more extra effort for detail in your work which in my opinion makes a difference. But I also think that sometimes we overdo it. Keep up your beautiful work Bossman.

 

Robert

[Bossman]

Robert, thank you for the encouragement and kind words. Sometimes we all need to remind ourselves that we are having fun! 

[cdrusn89]

Hey Bossman - I have a question that maybe you can answer.

 

On the carrier sheet that contained the Fr1-15 filler blocks that went on each side of the bulkhead former at each bulkhead there were six additional pieces labeled as Fore, Main and Mizzen Mast Filler - two of each. I checked the Fore Mast Filler and it indeed would fit between bulkheads D and E where the fore mast would be. I also checked the provided mast dowel and the bulkhead former with the fillers already installed are thick enough to fully support the masts.

 

The instructions seem to be silent on when (if ever) to install these. In fact I have gone through the instructions and cannot find where the masts are addressed at all.

 

Did you install the mast fillers?

Have you found where the masts are addressed in the instructions?

[Bossman]

First, a happy New Years all. Hopefully 2021 will be a bit better than the last one. Thanks for all the likes. They are much appreciated. I’ve been busy with other hobbies so time for a little shipyard work and update. I finished the last 6 cannons for the waist and most are rigged. I’m glad to have that chore finished. Also, the boomkins are finished and rigged. 
 

 

 

For the gunports, I edge glued 3 planks together and painted one side red. Using my old saw I cut to length and then cut the recess around the ports. Attached the hardware and done. 
 

 

 

 

Before mounting the gunports I encountered my first, or maybe it’s the third or fourth “oh crap” moment. The chain wales go on the same lines as the fancy molding. I made the fancy molding an integral part of the planking, it’s not glued onto the planking. Therefore, you can’t just cut it, and pop it off. 
 

 

It’s also boxwood so it does not remove as easily as basswood. With chisels sanding sticks, and a few choice adult words, I got the first one down so I can attach the chain wales. Once attached I think most of the damage will disappear. 
 

all the best folks,

mark

[Bossman]

And now it’s done! Now to do the rest of them without any major damage. 
 

[Bossman]

Again, thank you so much for the likes! After gunports and chain wales on one side I have finished the gangway on the other side before turning her around and doing the other. The hanging knees in the waist sit right on top of the spirketting. I don’t know if this is design or I got lucky but it sure made it easy. This all went easier than expected. The knees have the simulated bolts. 
 

 

 

 

Now that I am near the finish line on this model, I feel I am qualified to give a quick review. 
1. This is NOT a beginner kit. Not saying it can’t be done but for most folks, if you don’t have a few kits under your belt, you are in for some heartache. 
 

2. The plans and instructions are top notch. If followed, the modeller, with skill and patience will have a lot less trouble and “Oh crap” moments. A tip of the hat to Chuck on these two. 
 

3. The laser cut parts were dead on for the most part. I had very little trouble with them. The only trouble I hade was with the main false deck which you can see at the first of my log. 
 

4. The strip wood is basswood and ample quantities were provided to pick the best pieces without running short. The basswood will turn out a nice model if you take your time with finishing. I used my own boxwood for the hull planking. 
 

5. Cast pieces were ok except for the cannons. I would give them a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. I substituted brass ones from Syren Ship Models. I also substituted the kit blocks for some from Syren also. 
 

6. Brass photo etch was great. Here also, there were ample spares in case you mess a few up. 
 

I have been very happy with this kit. It can be turned into a very nice and accurate model. 

[Edwardkenway]

You have done a sterling job on her! 

[Bossman]

18 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

You have done a sterling job on her! 

Thank you Sir! Coming from you, I call that high praise. 

[Bossman]

Continuing on the starboard side with gunports and chain wales. I. Will mention that the directions call for leaving the tabs on the hinges to attach the ports. This seems way to fiddly for this child. I used a piece of annealed wire to attach the ports. 
 

The stub masts are being built on the side. The parts list for the main mast list a 7/16” dowel for this. The mast partner, if I am using the correct term, has an inside diameter of 1/2”. The plans show the mast being 1/2”. So, a trip to the local hobby store for a 1/2” poplar dowel solved that problem. 
 

 

[Bossman]

Thanks to all for the likes! They keep the fire going. I have thought for a long time about the photo etch chains provided for this kit. While they will likely be ok, I have decided to go with black annealed wire. There is a tutorial here by 

Russell Barnes that is very good. I would provide the link but I am technically challenged. If you search it, it will come up. Using his tutorial and the paste he uses, you can achieve a very solid silver soldered joint. 
 

I used a 1/4” dowel to make the deadeye rings. The pictures are self explanatory. In the second pic you can see the dab of solder paste on the joint. The joints must be flat with no gap. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

The middle link is formed between two pins as shown here. This is the final link to be soldered in. 
 

 

The bottom link is formed with both cut ends on the bottom. I then filed the inside bottom edges flat and squeezed together to solder the bottom 1/8”. The end is flattened on a steel bar and the hole for the toe plate drilled. 
 

 

And here is the finished product after touching up with paint. 
 

[Bossman]

I’ve almost finished the chains for the starboard bow. A note for Confederacy builders! Make sure to check that the deadeye strops fit  into the cuts before installing the channels. You will have a more melodious outcome. I’m happy with the outcome but have a bit more to learn about making chain plate assemblies. 
 

thanks again for likes and comments. Criticism is welcome as that is how I learn. 
 

[Bossman]

Thank you for the likes gents! Moving right along with this puppy. I finished rigging the last cannon in the waist and have installed the gangway on the port side. Sanding and nailing still to do. Also stepped the mizzenmast and main mast. Nothing to tricky here. Now it’s back to making chain assemblies. 
 

I can see the end of the road on this ship. It’s been a trip!

 

 

 

 

[ringleheim]

I just found this build thread and went through all 4 pages.

 

Your work here is really beautiful and clean.  It looks great!

 

This is a kit I have had my eye on, so I'm watching with extra interest.

Keep up the good work!

 

 

[Bossman]

Thank you ringleheim. She makes into a nice model. 

[Bossman]

Thanks to all who have liked my work and took the time to look in!  I’m finished up with the waist except for the skid beams and stairs. They are in the process of being finished. I did not use wire for the companion way stairs. I could not make it look right and rope would not either. I used sanded down pieces of boxwood. I have seen wood railings and if They were not used on the Confederacy, someone can prove me wrong. Personally, I like the look. 
 

So, the mentioned items in the waist, a few more gunports and chain plates and I’ll call this puppy finished! At the present time, I do not know if I will install the ships boats or not. I may put them on small stands next to the ship. Suggestion are welcome. 
 

 

 

[Marcus.K.]

Sir,

this is a beautiful and so interesting building log of a so beautiful model and ship!

Excellent work perfect presented!

[Bossman]

17 hours ago, Marcus.K. said:

Sir,

this is a beautiful and so interesting building log of a so beautiful model and ship!

Excellent work perfect presented!

Thank you very much Sir! She is a very beautiful ship. I’m humbled by your kind words. 
Mark

Edited February 19, 2021 by Bossman

[Bossman]

Skid beams are now in place. I got the chance to take a few pictures that do not show my neat, tidy work area. I’m not a photographer so this is as good as it gets. It is amazing to me, the mistakes that come through with a photograph. When I’m finished I will go through my photos and correct glue spots, scratched paint and that middle gunport in the bottom pic that’s hanging a little low!
As always, thanks for the likes ladies and gents!

 

 

 

[WalrusGuy]

She's a beauty, Bossman! I am very impressed on the quality and speed you have taken to build her. I have this model on my 'to do list' and will be referring back to your log as I progress. 

[TimC]

After seeing the result you have achieved so far, this ship will definitely be on my build list for the future. Exceptional work 

 

Tim 

[Bossman]

Thank you WG and Tim. She is a nice model to build but she is one big puppy! Thanks again for your kind words. 

[Bossman]

A real quick update. Today I tackled the waist rails. As with the chain assemblies, I opted not to use the photo etch.  I used brass rod of appropriate diameter. Blackened before cutting. After 2 failed attempts I finally found the right method for me. I first laid out the holes for the uprights. Then marked the center on to the railing piece. 
 

 

next I used a scrap piece to set the height of the uprights. Next step was to carefully mark the uprights onto the rail piece and drill a hole half way through it. I see in the below photo I need to poly two steps and add a sheave!
 

 

next I glued black construction paper to simulate the iron bands to the rail and attached the railing. It worked for me!

 

[Bossman]

Just another quick update on the Confederacy. Thank you all again for the likes. I have finally finished making all the chain wale assemblies for one side. She has been towed out and turned so as to finish the other side. I’m calling the port side done. Deadeyes and chains, 3 more stairs in the waist and finish the for mast and I’m done!