HMS Winchelsea - by mfrazier

[mfrazier]

I have downloaded the plans, today, so far and will be studying them. This is going to be a fill in project while I build the "Victory", so it will be going slow for me. I haven't decided yet if to build from scratch or order the laser cuts. Still have to decide on wood also.  I intend to build both ships simultaneously using this one to fill gaps and when I need a break. So many decisions before I start though. Will check out the parts on Syren first thing though.

 

Mark Frazier

[mfrazier]

I am having a hard time deciding between the Alaskan yellow cedar or the cherry. I have decided on semi scratch built.

[Chuck]

Welcome to the project Mark.  Its a tough choice but choose the wood you like best.  
 

Dont hesitate to ask the group any questions.

[mfrazier]

I printed the plans for this project , but I  think the false is the wrong size on my printing. I notice it says the document is 11 x 17 inches.  This won't print on a standard home printer. Does anyone know where is a good place to get them printed? I think my printer scaled them down to fit on 8 1/2x 14. I can't print them actual size. I will have to sort this before I  cut up all this plywood. All the rest of the plans printed actual size on letter and legal paper. It is just the false keel.

[JeffT]

Kinkos can probably do that for you. They can also print the large plans

[mfrazier]

9 minutes ago, JToma said:

Kinkos can probably do that for you. They can also print the large plans

There isn't one of those anywhere near me.  Most of those places in this area are gone. I may have to search for someplace in another city. Hope there is one in decent driving distance.

[Matt D]

1 hour ago, mfrazier said:

I printed the plans for this project , but I  think the false is the wrong size on my printing. I notice it says the document is 11 x 17 inches.  This won't print on a standard home printer. Does anyone know where is a good place to get them printed? I think my printer scaled them down to fit on 8 1/2x 14. I can't print them actual size. I will have to sort this before I  cut up all this plywood. All the rest of the plans printed actual size on letter and legal paper. It is just the false keel.

Mr. Frazier, I was in the same spot a few months ago.  I learned that you can set your printer to print that page on 8-1/2x14 paper.  It will try to auto-scale it to fit.  But if you set the scale to 100%, it will fit on the page and print the right size.  Also, please make sure you print everything with the scale set to 100%.  I have a complete frame set that is at .95 scale.  It was a hard lesson that I’d hate to see you repeat.

[mfrazier]

23 minutes ago, Matt D said:

Mr. Frazier, I was in the same spot a few months ago.  I learned that you can set your printer to print that page on 8-1/2x14 paper.  It will try to auto-scale it to fit.  But if you set the scale to 100%, it will fit on the page and print the right size.  Also, please make sure you print everything with the scale set to 100%.  I have a complete frame set that is at .95 scale.  It was a hard lesson that I’d hate to see you repeat.

My printer prints on 8 1/2 x 14 but the false keel prints are 11 x 17 and won't print actual size on the 8 1/2 x 14. They get cut off. I can print everything else actual size. There is an office supply store about an hour drive from me that says they can print them. Looks like a road trip this weekend , I  guess. I just don't want to mess the prints up and ruin a bunch of plywood. I thought about cropping the prints to just the printed area and maybe the would fit, but don't want to chance messing them up.

Edited March 14, 2020 by mfrazier
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[mfrazier]

My wife bought me a new scroll saw today just for this project.

and I  bought all the 1/4 plywood the hobby shop had. I will start cutting the bulkheads and false keel this weekend.

[Chuck]

You dont have a staples or office depot near you?  You could even try your public library.   You really should get the four large plan sheets done as well.  You can probably send them to staples online from their website and they will ship them to you.
 

chuck

[mfrazier]

7 minutes ago, Chuck said:

You dont have a staples or office depot near you?  You could even try your public library.   You really should get the four large plan sheets done as well.  You can probably send them to staples online from their website and they will ship them to you.
 

chuck

Yeah ...... the nearest one, Staples, is about 45 to 50 minutes.  I'm  heading over tomorrow.  ( this town died when all the mills shut down. It's great if you want a restaurant, lawyer, doctor,  but there ain't much else around here. I'm retired so I  don't go many places.)

[Matt D]

11 hours ago, mfrazier said:

My printer prints on 8 1/2 x 14 but the false keel prints are 11 x 17 and won't print actual size on the 8 1/2 x 14. They get cut off. I can print everything else actual size. There is an office supply store about an hour drive from me that says they can print them. Looks like a road trip this weekend , I  guess. I just don't want to mess the prints up and ruin a bunch of plywood. I thought about cropping the prints to just the printed area and maybe the would fit, but don't want to chance messing them up.

I think you may be mistaken about your paper size.  It's likely that you meant 8 1/2 x 11, which is standard letter size.  In which case, the ends will be cut off like this:

 

If you use 8 1/2 x 14 legal size, then it should look like this instead:

Not many people  keep 8 1/2 x 14 legal size around.  I didn't and when I needed to print mine, I dug into some old mortgage papers and took a sheet I know I will never miss.  The back was blank, so I was in business!  Good luck to you, sir.

 

[Trussben]

I use this online company for all my large printing, they do great work.

 

https://blueprintsprinting.com

[mfrazier]

Left this morning, 55 minutes later got to Staples when they opened and they printed the large sheets and the three I  couldn't print. So all is well now.

used carbon paper to transfer the drawing onto wood. Worked great. 

( staples told me to use graphite paper, but then said they didn't carry it. So I bought carbon paper.)

 

I can start cutting this morning. 😁

 

[mfrazier]

I  printed the bulkheads prints on 8 1/2 x 11 Avery label sheets. They stick on the wood for cutting , but peel off easily with no residue.  The weekend will be spent cutting them out. I will make sure to transfer the laser marks when removing the pattern. NOTE: Make sure if you use Avery Label stock, use the " easy peel" label stock. It is the removable one.

Edited March 16, 2020 by mfrazier
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[Chuck]

For those reference lines for the port framing and wales....just use a sharp xacto blade and score the lines through the paper sheet with a straight edge and into the wood.  Its permanent that way.   If they dont show up  enough after for you to see them.....use some poly over the cut line and they will be.  Dont be afraid to make these cuts real cuts....no reason to be delicate with them.  Its actually more precise and thinner than a typical pencil line.

[mfrazier]

Thanks, that's a good idea. 

[JeffT]

Great idea with the carbon paper and avery labels. logging that one in my memory

[mfrazier]

Cut the three pieces and glued them together.  I got a good fit on the joints. I also glued a support block on each side of the joints.  They shouldn't be in the way of anything but if are I  can chisel them off.  I am pleased with it so far. I will mount this on a build board and spend the next several days cutting out the bulkheads. 

 

[Edwardkenway]

14 hours ago, mfrazier said:

used carbon paper to transfer the drawing onto wood. Worked great. 

Love this idea👍. Looking good so far.

[mfrazier]

6 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Love this idea👍. Looking good so far.

Thanks. I used a french curve to trace curved lines. Makes it easy to transfer a perfect copy of a curve.

[mfrazier]

The first seven bulkheads are dry fitted. I will glue the bulkheads after I  mount the frame in my building board. It has been years since I used a scroll saw. It is a learning curve trying to follow the lines smoothly.  I will cut some more bulkheads tomorrow. 

[mfrazier]

Got the build board done. I made extra 90 degree support blocks in case I  need them. Now I  can start gluing bulkheads  as soon as I  cut the rest.

[mfrazier]

 

I  place a piece of aluminum angle, that I  cut in the machine shop, on each side with clamps. This holds the bulkheads square while the glue dries. This will take longer as I  can only do two , maybe four in a day, but they will be right.

Before I  install the bulkheads,  instructions say install the rabbit strip and keel, so that is next. It seems it would be more difficult fairing with them on first, but I  will follow the instructions. 

 

Edited March 16, 2020 by mfrazier
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[mfrazier]

I discovered a problem. When I  cut the 3 pieces for the hull former, I  should have left them oversize on the bottom and sanded after gluing together. I sanded and then assembled.  I ended up with the front and rear ends touching the build board and about 2 mm clearance in the center.  While this may not have been too bad , I  feel it needs to be FLAT. My solution was to glue a couple thin layers of basswood strips from my junk box.... I  mean inventory  .... to the bottom and I glued some sandpaper to  a 30 inch flat board and sanded the whole length flat. Worked great. Now the former is perfectly flat on the bottom. 

 

 

I have ordered chapter one and chapter two kits from Syren. As soon as they get here,  I  am ready to proceed.

[jfhealey]

Good morning Mark. I cut my own frames with a scroll saw - which was a new tool for me. I found out two things. First a little bit of "out" when cutting the slots in the bulkheads ( I stayed off the line and then filed to fit the bulkhead former for a snug fit but may have filed more off one side than the other) means a big out at the top of frames. Take care there. Secondly take care to be really precise with frame 29 and the slots for the stern frames. Again a little bit of out at the slot end means a big out at the top. I spent a lot of time fiddling about doing my best to get things something like right.

 

Otherwise good luck!

Fred Healey

[mfrazier]

Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't thought about that. I have the first seven bulkheads  dry fitted and they seem ok. I will watch the rest closely.

 

Mark Frazier 

[Chuck]

Make sure you wait until the stem and keel pieces are glued to the bulkhead former and you taper the bearding line before gluing the bulkheads in.  You will have a really hard time otherwise.  
 

 

[mfrazier]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Make sure you wait until the stem and keel pieces are glued to the bulkhead former and you taper the bearding line before gluing the bulkheads in.  You will have a really hard time otherwise.  
 

 

I understand.  They are only dry fit at present. 

I'm not sure I  understand what you mean about the first bulkhead being too small. It goes all the way down like you said and I  looked at the other builds and they look the same to me. I  am double checking everything before I do any gluing and waiting for the chapter one and two kits to  arrive so I can do the rabbit strip. I  will probably finish cutting out the last bulkheads  today.

Edited March 19, 2020 by mfrazier
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[Chuck]

No its fine.....it was just your photo.  It looked funny and it wasnt until I looked at it closer did I notice it was OK.  

 

Chuck