Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)

[Kevin]

a mass of dead people, might be easier said than done, unless you were to use a modelling clay with bits of the soldiers added 

[Old Collingwood]

35 minutes ago, Kevin said:

a mass of dead people, might be easier said than done, unless you were to use a modelling clay with bits of the soldiers added 

I'm using the Perry  supplied  figures I have  - just need  to alter some of the arm positions   - will get there in the end  (I hope)  lol

 

OC.

[Kevin]

30 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

I'm using the Perry  supplied  figures I have  - just need  to alter some of the arm positions   - will get there in the end  (I hope)  lol

 

OC.

keep up the great work

[Old Collingwood]

22 minutes ago, Kevin said:

keep up the great work

Thank you mate.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   the  bunch of  casualties  are complete  and  primed  - will be interesting  painting these.

 

OC.

[AJohnson]

“Interesting” is one way of putting it!  Such a complex shape, to get your brush into every nook and cranny. 🤔

[Old Collingwood]

13 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

“Interesting” is one way of putting it!  Such a complex shape, to get your brush into every nook and cranny. 🤔

I think the Black primer will help as it will help to form  shadows  - it will be a test  of my ability  and If I pull it off  should look quite interesting.

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

Are you pre-positioning the bodies or will they individually painted and the re-piled?  

[Old Collingwood]

40 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Are you pre-positioning the bodies or will they individually painted and the re-piled?  

Their  all glued together as a mass   - yep will make for some interesting painting.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   I have been working on a  wounded  55th Ligne  Fusilier, he will placed  slumped into the hedge, and also  see what's  arrived  - 

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

I am not too  worried about tha face on the  injured french man  (its not the best for detail  how it was sculped)   as  he will be partially burried  in the hedge  (will still be seen  but obscured a bit)

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

So, after  some touch ups  and weathering to mr injured man, he will be put aside  and I will tackle the mess  (I mean pile of injured/dead)   my admiral is real keane  for me to start this  - as she has no clue how I will be able to pull it off  "I have my ways"  lol.

 

This is were  they are going to be placed  after I have doen some more groundworks - scenery at the back of the farm.

 

OC.

Edited May 18, 2022 by Old Collingwood

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   quite a bit done today  -  I finished the sole  injured  figure  and placed  him slumped  against the hedge.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Next   I have started on mission impossible  - I have painted and detailed their faces/hands  and hair  details  and  the lozeng  hat  plates  and straps.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

And then  I cut the First Two  resin KGL 5th  figures away from the 3D pips,   the detail  on them is amazing.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

Impressive detail in those resin figures. Its easy to forget how small those figures really are. The photo of the lane with the injured soldier and the long shadows looks very convincing. 

The pile of casualties is quite a challenge. I look forward to the end result.

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

2 hours ago, king derelict said:

Impressive detail in those resin figures. Its easy to forget how small those figures really are. The photo of the lane with the injured soldier and the long shadows looks very convincing. 

The pile of casualties is quite a challenge. I look forward to the end result.

Alan

Thank you kindly Alan,   I have tried to make the wonded/dead more sombre  with less colour in their faces.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   more details painted  including painting some of the Dark Blue jacket details  inside the pile up.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Its amazing where the time goes  - Three hours  painting  just in those few details.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,    I decided to scan over my build pics earlier  and it struck me  -  some of my 5th KGL  (Red Jackets)  I dd not paint the White stipes on their bird nest shoulder epaulettes,   trouble is they are placed in the farm / glued down  (a few under the doorway)   If I wanted to try to apply these incredibly small fine White lines  - how couuld I do it  - keep my hand staeady without a hand support  and even see  withought  being able to get  up close to them.     any thoughts or ideas  folks?

 

OC.

[GrandpaPhil]

Rest your wrist and hand on a sponge and use a 000 brush.  
 

I bought the Qualrite set of detail brushes (note: these are artist’s brushes and not model brushes) off of Amazon and they have worked amazingly well for miniatures.

 

The 000 brush works great for insignia at 28mm scale.

 

The sponge soaks up the vibration from your wrist.

 

Given the choice, I would prefer to put my wrist down on something solid to ground it out, but with where you’re trying to work, the sponge would inflict less damage.

Edited May 21, 2022 by GrandpaPhil

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Rest your wrist and hand on a sponge and use a 000 brush.  
 

I bought the Qualrite set of detail brushes (note: these are artist’s brushes and not model brushes) off of Amazon and they have worked amazingly well for miniatures.

 

The 000 brush works great for insignia at 28mm scale.

 

The sponge soaks up the vibration from your wrist.

 

Given the choice, I would prefer to put my wrist down on something solid to ground it out, but with where you’re trying to work, the sponge would inflict less damage.

Thank you kindly  Phil,   I have seen artists use a  stick  in one hand  balancing the paint brush hand against it.   I like the idea of the sponge  but alas I wont have room  to place that as the scene is quite congested and busy.

 

OC.

[GrandpaPhil]

Can you ground your wrist out on the building walls or roof?

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Can you ground your wrist out on the building walls or roof?

I will try that  Phil,    thank you  for  coming up with some ideas.

 

OC.

[Edwardkenway]

You could leave that detail off the troops that are very difficult to get at, only you and we few here would know🤫

[Jack12477]

OC, you could try the stick method a lot of sign painters use when painting a company name on their glass doors/windows. I would get a 1/4 or 3/8 inch diameter Maple (or other hard wood) dowel, put a rubber tip on one end, start with a 24 or 36 inch length, trim to comfort. It should be long enough to span your diorama and rest the rubber tip on a work table surface. Hold the other end with one hand , rest your painting hand on the stick. I've seen professional sign painters use one and it's amazing how steady they can be.  

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, Jack12477 said:

OC, you could try the stick method a lot of sign painters use when painting a company name on their glass doors/windows. I would get a 1/4 or 3/8 inch diameter Maple (or other hard wood) dowel, put a rubber tip on one end, start with a 24 or 36 inch length, trim to comfort. It should be long enough to span your diorama and rest the rubber tip on a work table surface. Hold the other end with one hand , rest your painting hand on the stick. I've seen professional sign painters use one and it's amazing how steady they can be.  

Thank you Jack,   thats just what I have seen some artists do using a stick with a soft end,   will have to  suss  that one out.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

"Mahl Stick"    is what they are called  - just  found out.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   bit more work done to my pile  - vests and trousers  done.

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

As some former military might say...  "Stack 'em. Pack 'em. And rack 'em."  Looks great, OC.