Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

Fore Platform Bulkheads.

Although TFFM says similar to aft, plan and Vardas seem to show a continuous  wall rather than above and below a “lip”. Perhaps because there the bulkhead above the platform is incomplete or its’ beam sits below this lip

In any case, rather than  separate upper and lower segments (and different wood) the aft bulkhead of the fore platforms is made as the walls. It also is separated from the fore platform to allow room for the uprights of the Bitts.

There is a central gap (without a door). 

Door only to aftmost room-access to others via scuttles.

Note also no pillar to #5 lower deck beam.

Stanchions are 2.12 mm square.-some are already located where recesses already made in the platform planking.

(the rabbeting suggested as a possibility will be omitted)

Rooms on the port side looking foreward are Blockroom,Coal hole and Boatswain’s store room. 

Middle bulkhead-extends across from side to side. Against and supported by the #4 pillar.

Similarly, the fore bulkhead, has no gap or door.

Finally, a fore/aft wall from this bulkhead the stem. This runs off-center  to port to allow for the fore mast.

This is a bit fiddly as it must be cut to allow for the Breast Hooks.

( The Ring Bitt uprights are partially made now to allow fitting of the gap in the planking and shaping of their “feet”. These are 6.9mm square and a generous 11cm long- seperated at 23.85mm gap. The fore aspect, below level of the upper deck , narrows to 5.50mmThis was done by milling as shown. The wood is black hornbeam - a contrast to avoid painting!)

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Hook 

(start of new chapter!!)

A breast hook. Said to be almost horizontal, as shown also by my plan. But this means the precut mortise in the stemson too high. Double checked and can’t find the error.

This hook extends from the stemson to #1 deck beam (whose position must be determined first)via wings or Eking pieces. 

As warned, the plan needs significantly modifying.

My plan shows a thickness of 5.3mm (TFFM 6.4)-but also needs “letting down”

Because of this thickness and curve of the hull, a cardboard blank is difficult to shape. I would think a layered or ply approach would be easier, but I bit the bullet and roughly shaped oversize blanks with scarph joints for the Eking pieces.

The underside of the piece needs severe chamfering to fit the deck clamps.

I felt the angulation foreward too extreme and pared down the foremost deck clamps. The excess mortise can be filled later.

The #1 deck beam forms a seat for the end of the planks, and therefore forms a step 1.16mm below the upper surface of the hook. This surface also parallels the deck curve.

After poor results with previous efforts, decided to mill mortises while off-hull.

 

[stuglo]

LOWER DECK

Consist of:-

Beams (already made)4.24mmx3.18mm

Hanging Knees - thickness 3.18

Lodging Knees - 2.92mm

Carlings-3.18mm x 2.39mm (some exceptions)

Ledges -1.86mm x 1.60mm (some exceptions)

My intention is to mill as much as possible off-model

 

The Lodging knees- athwartship arms as shown on patterns, the fore/aft according to gap between beams, and shaped to fit against hull.

The Hanging knees- to the fore of beams in the fore half of the hull, aft to aft beams.

Only present on beams 6,7,10,11,12,13 (10+11 with additional iron beam).

 

#1 beam. Already fixed with breast hook

#2 positioned as per plan- in my case 15.5mm gap. This beam also forms the fore part of the foremast partner.(A rectangular structure around the foremast).The mortises are prepared for a pair of carlings foreward and a pair “outer” carlings aft. Also aft, the inner carlings are under the fore/aft partners, and half UNDERlap the whole width of beams.

The lodging knees,athwartship arms 22.26mm, shaped and camphered to match the hull.

Also athwartships, ledges connect the lodging knees to the carlings..

 

[stuglo]

# 3 Lower Deck Beam.

Forms Aft framing of foremast partner, and outer carling.

On either side of the partner, is a scuttle, framed by this outer carling, ledges and a wider (4.34mm) ledge. Onl after making and fitting the parts, I realised that I forgot to ensure the scuttle framing was squared, and this was repaired. 

#4 

This was the only beam that I had already fixed.

This sits on the middle wall of the foremost platform and pillar previously fitted. On checking distance between #3 and #4, obviously something is very wrong.

I now realise that the pillar has been wrongly positioned, mostly because it was not recessed into the  3rd foreplatform.

Good old alcohol (on PVA) and able to remove and remake or adapt the position of the pillar and related walls so as gap only 2mm less than the plan. Other structures, such as mast and Bitts are unaffected .

Only 1 pair of carlings and ledges which also form a scuttle either side. The fore outer ledge is wider and wedge shaped.

The making of these pieces also show the disadvantage in milling “off”model. The slightest inaccuracy becomes obvious when the parts, particularly ledges, are supposed to be parallel. 

#5

Outer and inner pairs of carlings with a central scuttle, framed by ledges.

Pins of the Bitts mortised give support to the beam rather than a pillar.

!!!! WARNING!!!!

Viewing diagram the next set of beams, I see these pins are aft of #5, yet I thought they were fore. 

Reviewing the various diagrams, especially p245 (bulkhead layouts on fore platform), I assumed beam#5 sat on the aftmost bulkhead and as the pins were to the fore of this, so would they be to the #5beam. A more careful referral to the profile plan shows this with obvious hindsight.

Therefore, bulkhead removed, 5mm extension to aft of platform,and then remade to fit the new position.

[stuglo]

Plank Partners

Between Beams #2 and #3

20.67mm wide, 2.12 mm thick with let down 0.53mm on beams and supporting carlings.

I made it from an oversized blank, milled the let downs, split the pattern in half so as to more easily cut and file the required central octagon, and then placed 2 sides together when fitting in place.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Beam #6

First of the HANGING knees. “comma “ shaped vertical piece, foreward to the beam.

3.18 thick, side arm against hull (and shaped to fit the different thicknesses of strakes) and a shorter arm along the beam.

The pattern in TFFM acts as a good starting point and I used the edge of band sander and a file for shaping.

Because the lodging knee sits against the frame and the hanging knee is against the strakes, I found it easier to mortise the former, although TFFM shows the hanging knee to be notched. Checking other blogs,  a similar decision seems to have been made.

Some tapering of ends of arms is also mentioned. 

Aft to the beam, the inner pair of carlings form the side frames of the foreward hatch. They are wider than usual- 4.0mm

#7 Beam.

There is also a hanging knee

The inner, wider carlings form the aft of forehatch frame.

Ledges as before

#8 Beam

Found the pillar incorrectly positioned while dry fitting lodges and moved accordingly.

 

***Measuring TWICE is not enough. Interdependence requires frequent rechecking with as many reference points as possible***

 

#9 Beam-#10 Beam.

This is a transition zone after which the lodging knees are set aft of beams. It therefore has both!

Various options are given, and reference made to a Peter Goodwin book.

Apart from a scarph joint, suggestion is a CURVED aft knee, like a horizontal stretched “S”.

This appears to give some support to the beam, but leave a small, ?unimportant, gap in the seating of the waterway.

In any case the fore lodging knee needs fixing first. The aft tip was thinned for easier passage of the underlying aft lodging knee.

I first took a 6.25 blank, made the shape but found that again the presence of the strakes made positioning too difficult. Placing the aft portion against the beam and the hull frames, and the adjusting for strakes thickness while it angle down to pass below the fore knee, was too complicated.

So I made 2 copies of the aft knee of normal thickness, and removing the fore part of upper, aft part of lower, some generous chamfering, and made something I think reasonable

 

[druxey]

Yes, those 'cross-under' lodging knees are tricky! I notice that the wood grain of the knees run parallel to one arm. They are stronger if you have the grain run diagonally across them so that neither arm has cross-grain wood.

 

Your model is coming along nicely.

[stuglo]

4 hours ago, druxey said:

Yes, those 'cross-under' lodging knees are tricky! I notice that the wood grain of the knees run parallel to one arm. They are stronger if you have the grain run diagonally across them so that neither arm has cross-grain wood.

 

Your model is coming along nicely.

Thank you. Its me being mean and using wood I have.

[stuglo]

Beams #10 to #11 -Beam arms

These, in shape and function, are a cross between a lodging knee and a curved ½ beam.

3.71mm thickness,they are “tabled” (mortised) to a depth of 0.8mm into fore edge of #11 beam.

The “foot” attaches to the hull about halfway between the beams.

The lodging knee fills between this and #11 beam.

Additionally, hanging knees are aft of beame #10 to 13.

Between the outer carlings and lodging knee, the ledges are wedge shaped.

There is a special packing piece along the hull between the beam arm and hanging knee#10.

The inner carling is a frame of the main hatch and therefore 4mm wide.

The first problem is thinking about the best order to make and fit the various pieces. 

I made the beam arms and dry fit them to the beams off the model.

Fix beam to model, then beam arms to beam and the hull wall.

Remember to let down the foot of beam arm where it sits on the strakes (I forgot at first ).

Hanging knees.

Packing piece

Iron lodging knee - bracing the outer fore beam arm to the packing piece. (Rather than make one, adapted a piece of left-over copper)

I then got confused between the hatch carlings and support of mast partners.

At first made the mortises to match those on #9, then thought I’d forgotten to make the to underlap, repaired the mortises, milled under #11for the underlap, fitted the carlings, rechecked, realised that I was looking at pattern for beam #12, looked around for someone to blame (but wife had stayed in the kitchen all morning) undid the repairs and repaired the unnecessary mortises. Phew!!

( The great thing about wood and PVA glue is the ability to repair and redo- a picture is included as an example.)

 

Beam #12

Main Mast partners similar to the fore partners.

These are the carlings that underlap that previously caused confusion.

Overall width 22.26mm. Thickness 2.12mm and let down 0.53mm

Octagonal hole 15.9 mm diam.

2 additional small octagonal holes either side, size 4.77, centred 5.3mm from centre line (for part of pump mechanism)

I thought I’d made another error as the carlings don’t cover the shotlocker walls, but double checking measures, this was not supposed to happen.

 

Beam #13

Slight intoeing of outer carlings noted, parallel with narrowing of hull.

The thicker 4mm inner carling is notched at fore outer end- the main jeer bitt pin-this extends slightly into the #12 beam.

 Beam #14  

Main variation is the sharper curve of the hanging knee to match the shape of the hull. I also shortened it a couple of mm to match. 

 

[druxey]

With all that you are learning, you will be a Master Shipwright by the time you are finished!

[stuglo]

Lower deck beams #14 to #19

The main difference and problem is fitting the beams and lodging knees where the strake of the deck clamp rises more sharply than the deck, and no longer forms support’ as for the previous beams.

Referring to other blogs, this doesn’t appear to happen, which was quite depressing until I reread TFFM p222 again, which confirmed, in this at least, I hadn’t screwed up.

The lodging knee also need more acute chamfering and narrowing to match the fellows more forward.

Noteworthy, the framing of the ladder companionway, carlings 4.0mm and aft ledge 4.8mm.

Another problem is the mizzen mast partner sizes- given as 17.5mm wide, 1.86mm thick octagonal mast hole as 11.13mm

The illustrated beam pattern shows this as significantly smaller, but comparing previously made partners, and the relative diameters of their masts, simply went with the given dimensions rather than the pattern .

 

[Trussben]

Nice Framing work.

[dvm27]

Due to illustration reproduction problems we have had over the years I would always go with the stated dimensions.

[stuglo]

1 hour ago, dvm27 said:

Due to illustration reproduction problems we have had over the years I would always go with the stated dimensions.

Thank you. opportunity to again remark on the expertise and work that went into producing such a masterpiece.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck (cont.)

 

Again the order of build seems important to decide.

The following seems easier BEFORE I start, but we’ll see if it remains so.

1)Waterway

2)Ceiling planking/strakes

3)Bitts,Pump, coamings etc

4)Deck planking.( on previous builds I found it easier to plank to, rather than fit things after)

 

The lower deck waterway is 1.6mm thick, beveled slightly against hull to allow the sitting of the strikes, and towards the planks to match the 1mm plank thickness. To be done after planks are fitted.

The nominal width is 6.36mm but are cut from wider pieces to allow for the curve of the hull.

Scarf joints as suggested, the foreward 3 pieces are made and fitted first, then the aftmost. The missing piece needs a small adjustment to fit.

The foremost piece meets the Deck hook and Eking piece at stem.

Aft, I made a small beam athwartship for Beam#19, to neaten-off the deck planks.

(made pieces in the usual way-photocopy given plan, stick to blank, extra wood left on inner surface and fitted. They needed surprisingly little adjustment for the curve.)

[tlevine]

My suggestion is to follow the construction sequence as written in TFFM.  That's what I did with Atalanta and never regretted it.

[stuglo]

On 9/15/2021 at 1:43 AM, tlevine said:

My suggestion is to follow the construction sequence as written in TFFM.  That's what I did with Atalanta and never regretted it.

 

Very true, however this section, like a few  others, suggest several options from which a choice can be made. (I know my limitations and avoid calling on skills which I lack)

[stuglo]

Inner Hull Planking (ceiling) cont.

 

#16 and #17 strakes of 1.6mm thick

A stealer is added below the foremost part of #16.

I found it easier to chamfer the lower edge of the #16 strakes, rather than the inner waterway.

There is an (Air) gap of 1 mm above the #17 sections except the foremost and aft, which are wider by the same amount. The lower edge of this gap is chamfered

I also fit the aft #17 first, as the #16 aft shape is more complex/

(I find it difficult to transfer a card pattern to wood, and in this section I have made approximate paper patterns and then fashion the wood directly with sanding sticks and band sander.)

[stuglo]

Lower Deck (cont.)

Before planking, some structures need to be made.

The first are the Gratings.

These have always seemed too difficult and in previous scratch builds, have used left-over pieces from various kits and assembled them.

I’ve read dozens of explanations which seemed too difficult to build or even understand.

Even the TFFM didn't enlighten me. Then I checked out a later video of Kevin Kenny (#79).

Genius (someone who simplifies the difficult and/or originates a new method) 

THANK YOU, SIR.

First, make a sliding table (in my case , a ProxxonFET).

   The gratings consist of : ledges (athwartship)- the notched bits-1.33mmX1.6mm (deep)

And for/aft Battens, 1.46mmX0.4mm thick.

My saw blade is 1.6mm (very convenient).

A stop/fence made from a strip 1.6mmX1.6mm, and glued at a distance that a cut strip will be 1.6mm wide, (For now relied directly on sliding table and not an additional jig.)

A 3mm thick blank is squared off, and with the grain at RIGHT angles to the blade,which is lowered to allow a 1.6mm groove to be made.

Held firmly against the fence, the first cut is made.

The blank is then moved so this groove SITS on the fence, and a second groove cut. This in turn sits on the groove and another groove cut etc until all the blank is furrowed.

WATCH OUT FOR THE SAW BLADE. 

(I placed some downward pressure to help form uniform grooves)

As I said, sheer Genius.

While set up, made enough for later use with the upper deck.(Foredeck more delicate)

Put the sliding table aside .

These grooved blanks are turned 90deg and 1.6 mm slices cut with the grain

I changed the saw blade from the standard 37 teeth ( it damaged a few trial passes) to a 200 tooth blade-not really its purpose, but it was magic) and cut the 1.6mm wide strips ALONG the grain.

Battens:  My thicknesser can’t make 0.4mm blanks -only 1.3 minimum.

Never mind.

Cut strips ( ALONG grain) similarly 1.6mm wide

 The ledges and battens are interlocked and fixed with diluted glue.

 The holes seem pretty uniform and close enough to the  appropriate size.

The excessive thickness will be sanded off after each piece is cut to size.

Thanks again Kevin.

[stuglo]

Hatch Coamings.

Framework around the gratings and ladder opening.

The aft/forward (also called coamings) are 3.18mm x 2.65mm (deep)

Athwartship, head-ledges, are 2.65mm.

The corner joints are a fancy half lap, said to be sloped or angled-this extra feature beyond me. In order to see the joint-line, the upper piece is simply made thinner.(1.25/1.40).

The upper part of the joint, seen above the planks, is rounded off. A small jig with a right-angle of a plank to be used, served to “blank off” the lower part that will remain square after sanding this rounding(also called radialising).

The grating should be thinned to reach the appropriate thickness. I used the milling machine as my attempts with a sanding board resulted in unwanted curving.

Black wood treenails represent bolts placed at joints and the center of the frame.

(Although I used different woods for the frame and gratings, when oiled, this is difficult to see. Different choice for other decks.)

 

[stuglo]

FOR WHEN I FINISH THE SWAN OR NEED A DIVERTION

 

Just Delivered (not by a Stork- a WW2 German plane)

Almost healthy girl (ships are "she") weighing in at 9kilo and expected to grow to 127cms

Thanks to  advice to check and notify, found some metal bits missing, as was the printed large view.

Also. the contents were loosely packed and the ends of the printed bow pieces damaged-replacements requested.

 

Amati is a long established company and they should employ an English-speaking proof reader.

The outside of the box states that the Bismarck was the PROUD (sic) of the navy..... and the MITH (sic) began. 

Not in the mood to check the TWO books of illustrated instructions

[Kevin Kenny]

Something to distract you from your more important build of the Swan

[stuglo]

Return to Deck Hook and Eking Piece.

When placing the foremost part of the central plank I realised I had made a fundamental error.  In forgetting the TFFM instruction, I made the Eking piece stand proud of the beam,by dropping the beam, so that the waterway plank ended flush with this. So the front end of the deck needed unsticking. It and #1and #2 beams,the foremost waterway planks remade, and a new central piece joining the to the stemson, so they overlay the Deck Hook.

( As Miss Piggy would say “ attacked by DUMMO rays”)

[druxey]

"When all else fails, read the instructions!" Good save, though!

[Kevin Kenny]

Just curious if you catered for the slight increase on the outer edge of the waterway which touches the frames. I am struggling to do this on the waterway for the upper deck where the plank starts at 4” then reduces after the spirketting  to three inches 

[Kevin Kenny]

[druxey]

The illustration shows full-size practice. You can cheat, as long as the end-result looks right.

[stuglo]

2 hours ago, Kevin Kenny said:

Just curious if you catered for the slight increase on the outer edge of the waterway which touches the frames. I am struggling to do this on the waterway for the upper deck where the plank starts at 4” then reduces after the spirketting  to three inches 

Intend to do so after I fit other planks. These will need sanding and my initial intension is to sand the outer waterway to match their level

[stuglo]

3 hours ago, druxey said:

"When all else fails, read the instructions!" Good save, though!

Correct. Then I have to remember-so I write notes. Then I have to remember to read the notes-so I try and read my scribble.

Life is complicated

[stuglo]

11 hours ago, Kevin Kenny said:

Just curious if you catered for the slight increase on the outer edge of the waterway which touches the frames. I am struggling to do this on the waterway for the upper deck where the plank starts at 4” then reduces after the spirketting  to three inches 

try this out.

I took an already well-used emory board (less abrasive) of softer sandwich type. Cut a 3mm rim of the sand paper layer away. The edges are soft and non-damaging to the wood you wish to be un-effected. (the already-rounded corner is a useful bonus)