Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

Kevin, Another Idea that I meant to pass on when I saw the gluing of right-angled parts, for which you use clamps and jig on glass.

Try an old photo frame. The angle and glass always there. Also I can place  pattern under the glass and stick bits into position without them sticking to the plan.

[noel_colledge]

On post 432 you mention 

"Battens:  My thicknesser can’t make 0.4mm blanks -only 1.3 minimum.

Never mind."

 

if you have a dead flat piece of wood or metal the width of you thicknesser, you can double sided tape your wood to this sled and reduce the thickness of your timber to less than 1.3 mm by passing it through on the sled.

[stuglo]

4 minutes ago, noel_colledge said:

On post 432 you mention 

"Battens:  My thicknesser can’t make 0.4mm blanks -only 1.3 minimum.

Never mind."

 

if you have a dead flat piece of wood or metal the width of you thicknesser, you can double sided tape your wood to this sled and reduce the thickness of your timber to less than 1.3 mm by passing it through on the sled.

tried but the proxxon (mine at least) is unforgiving and tends to chew up v. thin or shorter pieces. Possible the blade settings, but have,'t yet the courage to play with them. For small pieces, I use a milling machine.

[noel_colledge]

It happened on mine to begin with as well, but I added a piece of timber at the front to act as a lead in to the actual planking to take away the snatch, and took very fine cuts and it works well.

 

it may also be your blades are slightly out of alignment with each other

[mtaylor]

7 hours ago, noel_colledge said:

It happened on mine to begin with as well, but I added a piece of timber at the front to act as a lead in to the actual planking to take away the snatch, and took very fine cuts and it works well.

 

it may also be your blades are slightly out of alignment with each other

 

Is this a saw or thicknesser?   If it's a thickness sander, your grit may be too rough.  If it's a saw, check that the blade's teeth aren't offset and also go for a higher tooth count.  Here's a good reference for table saws and blades and even though it's for the Byrnes it's very helpful for other saws.    https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23843-byrnes-saw-reference-also-good-for-other-desktop-hobby-saws/

 

 

 

[stuglo]

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

 

Is this a saw or thicknesser?   If it's a thickness sander, your grit may be too rough.  If it's a saw, check that the blade's teeth aren't offset and also go for a higher tooth count.  Here's a good reference for table saws and blades and even though it's for the Byrnes it's very helpful for other saws.    https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23843-byrnes-saw-reference-also-good-for-other-desktop-hobby-saws/

 

 

 

a proxxon- blades on a rotating wheal- an electric plane.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Planking-cont.

In fact, before continuing, suggested making the Riding Bitts.

The PINS for this were made,so to fit location aft of #5 beam, where it is scored so as to support said beam.

These Pins must be scored to fit the UPPER deck beams-Which therefore have to be made first and appropriately positioned.

My bible, T(testament)FFM, refers me back to section 5.10  “as you did the lower deck”.

Luckily, I checked with ch. 8.4 (vol. 2 -Deuteronomy) where I found that the upper beam deck size is given as 4.77mm X 3.71mm and some words as to whether to let down onto the clamps or not.  (Changes in instructions are also known when repeated in the other Bible).

 

22 beams are required.

Having tried various ways previously, I used the following method.

4 blocks, 16.5cm length, 5cmdeep and 1.0cm wide. (Thinner difficult to keep at 90deg)

Cut out pattern both sides of width.

Convex side, formed with spindle sander-flipping over frequently to ensure equal 90deg (same effect)

4.77mm slices with the table saw

Inscribe parallel line to form the concave surface( a little wider than the 3.71mm)

Finish more accurately with several passes between the milling drill bit and a fixed resistance.

The gap narrows progressively until the required thickness is obtained.

The beam passing by the bit, needs stabilizing as it passes the bit (I use a finger)

This way I only ruined 20% !!!! 

[stuglo]

 Riding Bitts

The Pins of these have previously been made-they support the aft aspect of #5 lower deck beam.

They are repositioned, and checked to see if they are perpendicular. Slightly out, the scoring depth increased from 0.8mm to 1mm, did the job.

The #5 upper deck beam is positioned and its height is checked using the profile plan. In this case, resting,without letting down,gave the desired result.

This is marked against the Pins, and the scoring of 0.8mm is made using the milling machine.

The cross piece is now to be made.-6.89mm x 5.3mm of length 56.85mm.

The head is grooved with the shaped milling piece and the edges chamfered. (except aft - another piece will be added later).

Height (position) on the Pins is marked and again scored to 0.8mm.

The cross piece is fixed to the Pins, allowing 23.85 space between them,and the edges of the fore aspect chamfered - the more so the edges of the extensions outside of the Pins.

(I’ll leave it off the model until most of the deck is completed)

[stuglo]

Lower Deck -cont.

 Reading again ahead, finish and fit the Riding Bitts. Add the Backing Piece of contrasting colour wood(was elm) 10.6x3.45 and 2.12 mm thick. Also using the same wood, wedge shaped cleats which add support for the upper deck beam.

Planking the Lower Deck- Beech wood

Ignoring the Let Down, the planks are 1.0mm thickness.I made them at 1.20mm to allow for “levelling”.

The first to be fitted are the Binding Strikes- a pair either side of the comings.

These are 5.3mm wide, tapering fore and aft- staggered 4 plank shift.

As a first for me, I marked the edges and ends with pencil to enhance the joint lines. 

The spaces between the Binding Strakes and the Central Plank are “shut in”

Outside of the Binding Strakes, 5 narrower planks (4.75mm)with more marked tapering .

The next few planks (working outwards) would, if worked normally, would have ends that would be too narrow. These ends are modified so the plank is “Dropped”

( I drop things all the time but don’t have a special name- except “clumsy bugger”)

A plank, about a 1/3rd wider, is used, so that a barb-like end is formed (like a harpoon), so that the end of the neighbouring plank fits into the notch.

Decided for now to leave most of the port side unplanked-the rooms and bulkheads beneath are invisible, but the deck structures look good.

Finishing the planking-levelling and smoothing including the inner aspect of the waterway to match the plank height.

( I used sandpaper, single edge razor and larger, curved scalpel blades-see posts related to these subjects)

[stuglo]

Scuttle Covers

To the side and aft of the foremast. Flush to deck.

TFFM says battens on the inner side of carlings, but at least one of my scuttle doesn't have these-so just “fit” them so they don't fall when glued.Also ignored hinges.

The upper surface planks are narrower, they are supported by battens at 90deg.

The ring and bolts from an old kit of similar scale.

[stuglo]

Main Topsail Sheet Bitts and Main Jeer Bitts.

Having made the Riding Bitts, I thought these would be similar and relatively easy-HA! HA! HA!

Initially a lack of information in TFFM, then excess after searching vol 2 .Further complications when I tried to understand using the Peter Goodwin “construction and fitting” book. Different measures are given here. Also my profile and deck plans weren’t in agreement with anything. So checked up on Kevin Kenny’s video, to find he was also troubled and remade them (in video 80).

After many scribbled drawings, I decided to remember an earlier solution-take each stage as it comes. Maximum will have to restart.

Firstly, size of blank- 4.77 X4.77mm . But what length? 

The length of the MTSB pins is such that they allow the upper surface of the Gallows Piece (a fancy cross piece sitting on the pins) to be in line with the surface of the quarter deck and to follow its curve.

In order to know the height of the quarter deck, check profile plans to ensure the the strakes/clamps are in the correct height- and note beams are only 2.9mm deep, but planking is 1.33mm thick.

So I start with the Gallows piece - 

I took a blank of 60X3.75X7mm. I stuck a copy of the 1st option of patterns given inTFFM and sanded a curve to match- so that the depth was 5.83mm.

I then used a couple of interesting- looking milling bits to obtain the result required at either end and underside of this curve, so the length was 57.2mm.

The length of the MTSB pins are therefore height of quarterdeck above the lower deck, minus depth of Gallows plus the “Heel” inside the pump well-which in my case is 75.75.

You could read it off the plans but mine are unclear with superimposed markings)

 

I’m going to make the Main Jeer Biitts at the same time as the dimension of the blanks and workings are similar 4.77X4.77mm

Its length is such as to support the fore beam of the quarter deck - ie previously calculated height minus the thickness of beam and planking. With the “heel” this comes to 72.70mm

[stuglo]

Main Topsail and Jeer Bitts (continued)

I’m posting the various stages in (I hope) digestible bits (pun intended)

Of course, cut the blanks slightly overlong.

Place an upper deck beam in position and measure and mark the upper surface height above the lower deck, on the Bitts.

The Aft surface is tapered below this line by about a ⅓-to 3.5mm

A “Heel” is then formed on the fore surface- notched to depth similar to a beam’s depth and about 2.50mm thickness left. This attaches to the top and side of the lower deck beams.

 

The Main Jeer Bitts: The hole in the corner of the after hatch should be enlarged to accommodate the Bitts, allowing for a separation of 22.26mm

(Main Topsail Bitts are separated by 23.85mm but there is space for this in the pump well.)

The Bitts are now scored to depth 0.75mm on fore aspect to allow them to fit the upper deck beams.

The Cross Pieces -Main Topsail Bitt 3.10x4.25mm-with different lengths to choose from,I made it 51.25mm

                              -Main Jeer 3.10x4.25x45.9mm

**NOTE**that the Jeer Bitt has  the cross piece AFT of the Pins.

Also scored 0.75mm, the UPPER surface of the Cross Piece, is 11.13mm above the upper deck.

 

[Kevin Kenny]

She is looking good. I decided to ignore the scuttle covers as no one would see them and if i wanted to build them i would just scribe the lines and highlite  with pencil. 

[stuglo]

Main Topsail and Jeer Bitts (continued further)

NOW we notice that the fancy top to the pins are not straight but have a sort of mushroom top (or something else which I shan’t mention)- suddenly wider then tapering. At first glance I see a number of possible solutions:-

Remake the pins to widest dimension and shape back

Make a separate piece to stick on to a shortened top

Add a thickening blanks to shape and then carve decoration.

Taper existing end and add battens to form a rhomboid shaped “window”

Checked KK’s video-he went with the last option.

I could have done with then tilting table he used for milling, but used a stationary sanding block to reduce the top10mm of the pins from 4.77mm to 3.77mm-result could have been better but I was impatient.

I have left over from Dusek’s La Real cutout sheets some strips 0.5mm thick and varying 1.2 to 1.5mm wide that surround parts cut out by laser.(remember never to throw anything away).

The wider stuff for the top and bottom, alternating thin and thicker for sides to overlap.

Chamfering to round edges and blend corners.

Soome black acrylic paint matches quite well. (Just to the additions.)

[stuglo]

Main Topsail and Jeer Bitts (continued further again)

 

CHAMFERING AT THE BITT to finish- moved on to the Cheek Blocks.

 

These thin structures - like a flattened “C” cover the outer sheave (single pulley disc)

This sheave is 4mmx0.6mm.

I took the height as 8mm, width as 4.77 (as pins) and thickness, 2.5mm.

The Cheek blocks sit on the deck, the portion above the sheave is thicker and finished as a molding.

Taking a blank 8mm deep,2.5mm thick and 20mm long , I Milled a groove 0.8 deep (it turned out 1.0mm) and 4.2mm wide - leaving 1.5mm wood to base and side, and 2.3 above.

The thicker top was milled with a shaped bit to produce the molding.

(I tried , for the first time, the Artesenia molding tool with little result)

Good result, but I stupidly put the molding facing inward- Start again!

Cut slices to appropriate width-4.77mm

The Pins have a matching slit, at the same level, but for a sheave slightly wider at 0.93.

As I have no brass rods,(which I couldn’t cut to size anyway), no same-size metal washers, I cut them from a 4mm rod. 

I think they look OK.

[stuglo]

Main Topsail and Main Jeer Bitts (almost finished).

Next suggested making holes for the Pump Brake Rhodings- bearings that hold the crank handles.

Set at an axis of 23.32mm above the deck - one hole above and another below separated by 2.16mm.

Decided to make and fit them now-see vol 2 TFFM

Suggested made of bronze with an internal diameter of 0.8mm

The MT Bitts have a wider separation than the MJ pair and therefore they have spacer blocks to compensate (maintain alignment).

Again no suitable brass tubing, so used a 18G needle (medical) which has an int. Diameter of 0.9mm.Later added a spot of copper paint.

The Spacer,a wood strip, 2.66x1.5mm, grooved to depth of 0.75mm to take a length cut off from the needle. I made it 2.5mm wide. In retrospect it is probably too wide.

I epoxied similar lengths to the MJ bitts.

Used copper pins,but actually forgot to square the  heads for the locking nuts.

 

Fitted the cross pieces and Gallows - just remember which “bit” goes with what and where

[stuglo]

The Chain Pumps.

As usual, TFFM gives a good explanation.

A down (Back) tube, inboard,with intake at base.

An up (Discharge) tube .

These are topped with an assembly including a wheel and roller. Surrounding these is a cistern.

The tubes are pencil-shaped,98mm long, 5.3mm wide at top and tapering to 4.0mm at bottom.

There is a consistent bore of 2.65mm, therefore the wall thickness thins significantly.

There is also a pair of Brake pumps, similar in external size but with a narrowing bore (to 2.4mm) which is essential for its mode of function. 

I used 5.3x5.3 blanks, 100mmlong. Holes drilling in initial few cms. With a drill press-enure bit is centralised

Already had the jig as suggested, but my skill with a plane is lacking.

Still able to use the “7-10-7” rule as suggested, but used a mill instead. 

Dusting of my Pythagorus, (? remember the song” the square of the hypotenuse….”), the depth of cut can be easily calculated.=1.1mm

The corners are milled off and we have 8 sides.

The tapering achieved by raising the lower end with a 0.65 slip of wood,remilling against the gradient with a slightly shallower cut.

The top 6mm of all are rounded (like a pencil) to a diameter of 4mm.Where this starts,a collar of 2mm black paper to mimic an iron band.

The Brake pumps have a modified band which can be fitted later. 

These also have a modified lower end- inboard is shaped like a fountain pen nib.

Finally, a hole to allow a 1.6 bore pipe (a short discharge tube), to protrude aft/outwads at 45deg.- I set this after checking the upper deck level.

( I have purchased a set of Photo-etched details from a fellow Swan builder)

I tried to build the Pump Intake Chamber-too fiddly and no patience)

*****This means that the Tubes will sit lower and this should be allowed for*****

(After the complexities of the Bitts, this was FUN)

[Kevin Kenny]

Just made my first chain pump and having difficulty fitting it through the main mast partner hole. The book says the hole is 9” wide. I have opened the hole to 9” but this is the result. I am curious what you did. My instincts tell me to reduce the pump housing to fit the 9” hole. The second shot shows what happens when i pass it through a 10” hole.

kevin

[stuglo]

Upper Well

As the pumps pass through the lower deck, they are enclosed by a Well or compartment(-as they do below the deck).

It consists of louvred walls and a small door (port side). Corner pillars extend to the upper deck beam, and a pillar for the doorway-3.18 x 3.18mm.

Loovers  0.8x4mm and angled at 30deg.seperated 1.5mm

Vertical bottom plank 6.36x0.8mm notched athwartship to allow for mast partner.

Main challenge is the slots in the posts.

Following the ideas for making the gratings, by using a fine tooth Proxxon table saw blade (miraculously 0.8mm) and a 30deg jig. Remember directions of slots to allow the looves to match between posts.

Also  vertical slots (milled) for the vertical bottom plank.

A simple door.

The overall size to fit space between main and aft hatches and cover the lower well.

This was a fun piece to make.

 

[druxey]

Well done: Grooving those posts accurately is tricky!

[stuglo]

Ladder

(Back to building after 10 days in and around Napoli-Fantastic place-visit if you can.)

Styles (sides) 0.8-1mm (size apparently flexible)-each with opposite direction of slots.

Treads (steps) 0.53 x4.24mm

The ladder feet are on the port side, inclined at 65deg.-this angle sets the slots horizontal and an angled jig can be used along with the “grating” method.

I have a smaller Proxxon table saw which has a 0.5 wide blade. No height adjustment so wood raised by another piece of suitable thickness.

The Styles are shaped- the top notched to fit the coaming, then other corner chamfered.

The middle ⅔ are narrowed by 0.75mm (supposedly to lighten)

Overall length to fit . 

 

[stuglo]

On 10/24/2021 at 5:01 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

Just made my first chain pump and having difficulty fitting it through the main mast partner hole. The book says the hole is 9” wide. I have opened the hole to 9” but this is the result. I am curious what you did. My instincts tell me to reduce the pump housing to fit the 9” hole. The second shot shows what happens when i pass it through a 10” hole.

kevin

Sorry, been away and just noticed your question.

I "slimmed down" the pipe and opened the hole to arrive at 9.5 inch. (lower deck level) . Not fixed yet because may need to reduce height. Hopefully, soon will see what happens with upper deck level.

[druxey]

Because the pump runs through at an angle, the athwartship opening needs to be slanted to match, which may account for at least part of the fitting issue. 

[stuglo]

Pillars under the upper deck beams.

 

The next step are the lower deck cabin bulkheads; but to make them more accurately and positioned correctly( without the later alterations that I was required to make for the platform structures) better reference to later structures will be used.Thus the pillars- which also require the temp. fitting of the upper deck beams.Positions located on plans. Some coincide with structures such as coamings and there seems a difference on how to treat these- notch the structure or have the pillar sit on it.

 

Eleven are shaped- for beams #2,3,4,6,10,13,14,15,16,17,18

4 are plain-squared- #7,9,11,12

Previously made (at time of pillars beneath lower deck)- #19,20

Instead of tenons, copper pin into foot and underlying structure.

Options for shape in TFFM and plans.

Dimensions given-the head-2.9x2.9mm and heal 3.45x3.45mm

The centre ⅔, rounded- narrowing upwards to match the thinner head.

The height to be set individually beneath each beam - therefore made heal overlong for later shortening.

(Little experience with turning small structures and my Unimat has a 3jaw chuck- not good for square pieces. Bought the contraption shown in the picture for such work. Overpriced, poor quality and very inaccurate- but having bought it, used it)

Beams and Pillars dry-fitted.

[Kevin Kenny]

Coming along nicely. I might have softened the edges of the post a bit. It is always a difficult decision as in miniature sometimes it is better to leave them sharp to show the detail. Looking great.

[stuglo]

 

5 hours ago, Kevin Kenny said:

Coming along nicely. I might have softened the edges of the post a bit. It is always a difficult decision as in miniature sometimes it is better to leave them sharp to show the detail. Looking great.

Thank you. I can't say enough how much we learn from your videos and comments.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Cabin Bulkheads.

TFFM says “ build up as you did the platform bulkheads” as if I can remember!!

Even referring to relevant chapter and my notes, it feels almost like learning anew.

This time however I will take better notice of height while building and not correcting afterwards.

Therefore, keep beams in place and built around them.

Stanchions 2.12 x 2.12mm.-

The first bulkhead is forward aft running on the port side of the mast, ( to a athwartship bulkhead centred on the #3 pillar). 

It is made with short planks separated/supported by stanchions with rabbets. After breaking 2 thin milling bits, I used the alternative method with battens!!

The cabin layouts are shown clearly in TFFM plan. Three pairs fore and aft, the first two unequal because of the offset separation bulkhead. 

Some have a narrow “angled” joining bulkhead which I found some difficulty in making. Several attempts still leave me dissatisfied with the result

In order to maintain the horizontal and vertical angles, allowance and correction for the camber and slope are needed. Sometimes only after fixing, are errors apparent, but a sharp blade and alcohol can undo and allow for necessary corrections.

Notches are made to allow beams to sit flat- other corrections for the deck architecture will be made as required.

Further “simple” bulkheads (longer horizontal planks) for the aft of the deck are similarly made.

The deck ends with an aft bulkhead that runs from side to side. Some more severe shaping was needed where it meets the hull, so I made it in 2 halves for ease.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Structures cont.

In the mid deck area, between the fore and aft deck cabins, are the Sail room and Pantry. (These are unpaired)

The fore bulkhead of the sail room abuts the aft headledge of the fore hatch. The door is aft.

The aft bulkhead of the Pantry, abuts the ladderway. The door is to the port side.

The upper ⅓ of the sidewalls are lourved.

The stanchions are grooved in the same way as the pump well (30deg. jig on sliding table).

 

[stuglo]

Lanterns.

On either side of the 1st fore aft bulkhead.

Tried a different method this time ( TFFM has a short tutorial but beyond my patience at present)

Anyway, I found some leftover bits of gratings from an old kit (? scale 75)

By drilling out cross pieces either side of a vertical, was left with a piece lookin like a window, and at the size required-11.5X5.8mm.

Thinned them down, joined into a “V” and added floor, roof and support bracket.

Better than lat effort, and will be hidden anyway.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Structures, cont.

While beams in place check alignment and centre of each

Doors -simplified. Thinner vertical planks and reinforcing “Z” on the inside.

Holes, not fancy louvre or bars (I remember such things as a child on outside loos)

Height 28 mm but some variety in width.

As almost all will be hidden despite leaving off some planks, I will not fit cabin furniture but rather made a set to display alongside the oven, outside of the ship.

 

This finishes t5he 1st vol of TFFM,

? continue now or have a break to build something else.

Watch this space !!!