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Posted

STAGE 34, 35, 37 and 37 (WHEELS!)

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These built up exactly as the front wheels, just four screws per rim. You definitely need to soak those tyres in just-boiled water for 5 mins to make it pliable enough to pull around the rim. The fit is superb! Both rear wheels are built over these stages.

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A single screw is now used to fit the wheels to the rear of the car. These were done one after the other so I wasn't putting any stresses on anything for too long. When attaching the wheels, the fins on the brake unit need to fit into the slots in the rear rim.

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Posted

STAGE 38 and 39: FRONT LEFT/RIGHT CONTROL ARMS

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It's now the turn of the front suspension to be completed so the front wheels can be fitted. Again, pins are used throughout to hold everything together while allowing the various joints to move about.

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The wheel can now be slipped onto the connecting rod, and then a serrated pin used to lock the rod to the control arm. This was done for both left and right wheels.

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Posted

STAGE 40: FRONT FENDER LINERS & AIRFLOW INTAKE PANEL

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Two screws hold each fender liner to the silver floor base sections, and another screw holds each to the metal chassis making everything very rigid. The car is then flipped over and the airflow intake panel in place before flipping over the correct way and adding two final screws.

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As I have Pack 6, I'll post this real soon, and it looks another wonderful project!

Posted

Pack 6

Hot on the heels of the last pack come this next one which looks at building up some of the driver's office.

STAGE 41: DASHBORD SWITCHES AND STEERING ROD GUIDE

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Definitely one for those detail freaks 😁
First, dashboard plates 1 & 2 are pushed into place. I actually used a little CA on #2 as it was a little sloppy.

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Plate #3 is then pushed into place and secured by a screw from behind. Just look at the detail on that 🤗

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Now, the steering rod guide is screwed into position from the rear, 

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A number of injection moulded switches and knobs are added, some of them printed with details. These look excellent. one of these is quite clearly for a switch as it's left free-floating.

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Posted

STAGE 42: DASHBOARD DIALS AND SWITCH

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More dashboard goodness now as the dial stickers are affixed to the holding plate. 

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The clear lenses board is now pushed into position on the rear of the chrome surround.

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Then the dial faces holder is sat on top of this, behind the lenses board.

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Remember the free-floating switch? This is what it operates. A microswitch is pushed into position in the dial holding plate, and this fitted to the dials assembly I just made, before being fitted to the rear of the instrument panel using three screws.

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Posted

STAGE 43: CENTER CONSOLE AND LEFT FLOOR SECTION

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Some internal work I always find these a little hard to photograph as they are so black and have a velvet texture to them which can be easily marked with just touching. I find a piece of de-tacked tape is useful for removing any skin flakes or stray fibres/hairs from the surface. The two main sections are screwed together as shown and a cable clip fitted into position on the underside.

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Posted

STAGE 47: ACCELERATOR PEDAL & SWITCH, BRAKE PEDAL & SWITCH, CLUTCH PEDAL, FLOOR PLATE

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The pedal floor plate just pushes into position on top of the driver's floor mat, and then the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are fitted as seen with screws from the reverse.

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Microswitch assemblies are now fitted for two of the pedals. A switch is just pushed into a holder and the holder screwed to the cockpit reverse. A quick test of the switches with the pedals shows a positive action. No problems there!

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Cable management clips are now used to route the cables along the underside.

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Posted

STAGE 48: MOUNTING BOX AND MAIN SWITCH

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Another switch! This time a toggle for the car's on/off circuit. This pushes into place as seen here and a clip/screw used to secure it. The switch took a little effort to seat evenly.

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The mounting box is now fitted with pipes and the united screwed into position on the underside of the car. A little lid is also supplied. No surprise that this is where the batteries for the electronics will eventually fit.

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Last up is another cable management clip that helps to hold down the cable that I originally taped down for safety.

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That's it for another month!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Oh man, this is insane.  It has been a while since I scanned through the non-ship builds, and now I am a little sorry that I did.  I had never heard of this company.  I really like the Cobra, and I see they have a Jaguar E-Type coming soon.  Feeling much temptation.  Maybe I'll be satisfied if I just follow along with your build.

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Onwards with Pack 7!

It really doesn't seem to have taken long to get to this stage. Quite a simple pack this month that concentrates on the interior, so we can 't yet cure the wobbly front wheels on the main chassis. 😜 I've put some stages of this pack in the same sequence as at least 3 stages contain zero work.

STAGE 49 & 50: BUCKET SEAT/PASSENGER SEAT COVER, SEAT BELTS AND SEAT-BELT HARNESS

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First up, the double-sided 3M tape is cut to size and stuck in position on the plastic seat, like this. I ignored the instruction to cut to 4 lengths the same size as you really need to cut them to the actual size needed. The front tape lengths are then trimmed to shape.

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After peeing off the outer tape paper, the seat cover is slid over the plastic seat and then the sides pulled in so the tape fixes them in position. This is a little awkward, but works quite well.

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With the seat cover in place, the seat cushion from a previous pack is then screwed to this, holding everything in place.

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The lap belts are now pushed onto the lugs on the seat underside. These hold the parts real well, and I found no need to add any glue.

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STAGE 51: BATTERIES, BATTERY CABLES & CUT-OFF SWITCH

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Both batteries are plugged onto the mounting unit. These can only fit one way. Two screws hold them in position.

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The battery unit is then screwed into position from the underside using 4 screws. 

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Both battery cables are then connected to the power shut off device, and this is then secured to the interior.

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Both batteries are then 'wired up' like this. One cable will flap around, but that seems to be normal and it will be hidden behind a seat. Note I removed the gear stick too. That's to stop me damaging it. I'll replace it later in the build.

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The battery holder is now pushed into place. No screws required.

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Posted

STAGE 52, 53, and 54: DRIVER BUCKET SEAT, DRIVER SEAT BOTTOM, DRIVER SEAT COVER, SEAT BELT AND SEAT-BELT HARNESS

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For the sake of repetition, the next seat is built up in the same way as the previous.

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The two seat belt hooks are now pushed into position, and the belts fastened to them.

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Both seats are now secured to the interior via screws from the underside.

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STAGE 55: TRUNK BOARD AND TANK FILLER PIPE

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This one is dead simple. The tank filler pipe is secured to the truck board with a single screw.

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STAGE 56: CIRCUIT BOARD AND ELECTRICAL CABLES

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There's no actual electronics work involved with this, or testing. Each lead needs to be plugged into the socket on the circuit board that has the same number, When complete, the circuittboard is fastened to the trunk board. 

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That's all for the moment.

Posted

Just curious, James on the shoulder harness.   I take it the instructions don't show the shoulder harness connected to the lap belts?  If I remember right, they were on all the cars of the period.  It's still a beautiful build.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted
Posted

Darn, I wish I hadn’t seen this!

Now I’ve got this little voice in my head saying “wouldn’t this be nice to alternate working on the Confederacy?”….

truly a beautiful model. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

nice progress James........ great looking model!  lighting will really enhance it!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Pack 8

This pack came together quite quickly, and didn't need the chassis at this time, so all work was a lot smaller and concentrated on the fuel tank and electronics, plus some cockpit elements.

 

STAGE 57: FUEL TANK STAGE 58: REAR TRUNK

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This is the main part of the fuel tank that we started earlier, and bolted the electronics into . Now we can complete the tank and route the cables appropriately. I just hope the boards all work well as there's no test for it before encasing inside the car.

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Specific cables pass through specific openings, and the whole assembly screw tightly shut.

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STAGE 58: REAR TRUNK

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The boot, as we call it in the UK, is now tackled. The rear panel first screws to the main section.

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The completed fuel tank now bolts to the underside. Be careful no wires are trapped anywhere here. 

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Posted

STAGE 59: FUEL PUMPS, PIPES, TRUNK HINGE & LOCK

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Trunk detail is now added with the two fuel pumps and their plumbing. This all fits superbly with too awkwardness, and exactly as shown. The pics in the instructions are quite small so it took a moment to fathom which pump was which.

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The true support is now fitted, albeit it drops off quite easily but think that will be sorted in a later issue.

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STAGE 60: REAR FENDER PART & CABLE HOLDER

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The rear fender is another large part and this now bolts to the tank and truck assembly after first threading the specific cables through the correct fender opening. 

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A cable clip is now used to channel all wiring into the same locale.

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Posted

STAGE 63: CABLE HARNESS AND ELECTRICAL DEVICES

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'Electrical devices' is a generic term for everything that bolts to the firewall. Note also a nicely moulded wiring harness.

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The harness is first plugged into the various holes, and then the electrical devices into position as shown, trapping the harness in places.

 

 

 

 

STAGE 64: MORE ELECTRICAL DEVICES

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More 'electrical devices' to complete the firewall.

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more soon!

Posted

Pack 9

Quite a bit of work in this pack and.....YES!!...we manage to get rid of that pesky front wheel sag on the main chassis, which has driven me mad for a couple of months now.

STAGE 65: DRIVER SEAT-BELT HARNESS, HOOKS & FRONT LATERAL CAGE RIGHT BAR

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The u-shaped roll bar from an earlier pack is now resurrected and the belts are fastened to it. First, the bracket, then the harness hooks.

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The right lateral cage bar is now pushed into place on the firewall. 

 

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STAGE 66: OIL VAPOUR CANISTER, PIPES, CAP, & AIR INTAKE PIPE

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A few more detail bits for the firewall. First, the oil vapour canister is built and plugged into position.

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Now the air intake pipe is attached.

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Posted

STAGE 67: STEERING SYSTEM SHAFT, CAM GEAR BRACKET & COVER

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After screwing the cam gear bracket into place, the steering shaft can be threaded into position and secured in place.

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STAGE 68: STEERING ROD & COLUMN

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The steering column is first inserted through the rear of the instrument panel

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and the steering wheel pushed into place. This is quite a tight fit and quick tap with a rubber tipped model hammer drove it full home (no pun intended!)

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NOW we can get rid of the saggy front wheels! The springs are first slid onto the hub tubes and then the wheels aligned. The steering rod is then pushed into position on the seat and fastened at both sides on top of the springs. No more saggy wheels 🙂 

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