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Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner


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Thanks Maury. I'll file that away for future use.

 

Regard

Will

Current Build:

Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale

Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale

On Hold:

HM Cutter Cheerful  Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale

1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121  1:48 scale

Completed Build:

Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

 

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Rudder:  The rudder is held on with two straps rather the the typical pinon arrangement.

 

ECB2_Rudder4.thumb.jpg.18712e88d5fc04d9dd1efcdb237872f3.jpg

 

Wheel box:  I don't remember where I got the wheel, but after filing and blackening it looks pretty close to the photos I have.

 

ECB2_Wheelbox3.thumb.jpg.5330f0f2372fc8507eb8cc9da67caa9c.jpg

 

Maury

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  • 2 weeks later...

The mooring bitts, mooring chock blocks and lashing rails are in.

 

ECB2_MoorBitts1.jpg.92c8ce61459d529bb42ff437318d4785.jpg

 

279823953_ECB2_Lashingrail.jpg.f37945cecdd715c25e233a654b0bba84.jpg

Yet to be painted.

Maury

 

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Some time on the lathe and mill.  I'm a novice with these tools, but getting better.  Starting with the simplest pieces, I center drilled a 1/2" block (1/8" then 1/4") for the two mast coats at the deck level)(that would have been canvas.  Turned the block down to about 3/8" and tapered them. (upper two pieces)

ECB2_WindlassParts1.thumb.jpg.2d9cdecede68dc6c1b9a11c128667fe1.jpg

The remaining pieces are parts of the windlass.  The pawl wheel (or gear) was turned to the outside diameter and the block, still in the 4-jaw chuck was moved to the rotating table (set upright) on the mill.  I used a 1/8" end mill, rotating 30 degrees every cut to make the cogs.  After that was parted off, I sliced several spacers of various thicknesses that will separate the pawl wheel from the gears (not shown) and the bitts.  The cylindrical pieces will form the drums.  Whelps not made yet.

Maury

Edited by Maury S
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Just catching up Maury, nice progress, she is looking well in her colour coats.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Thanks for the comments, all.  More on the windlass.  I re-turned the barrels with a hole for a 1/16" axle.  All the parts of the drum section are shown.  The gears are Alexander Scale Models (Railroad) contributed by Randy Biddle.

ECB2_Windlass5.thumb.jpg.e339e6eb26110b0adba5b0af4c3b9498.jpg

The heads (end parts of the windlass) were turned down to 21/32", removed from the lathe and mounted on the mill (rotary table set vertical) and 1/16" scores or flat spots were cut across the length every 60 degrees of rotation to support the set of 6 whelps (to be made and installed).

Assembles pretty nicely on a piece of 1/16" tubing.

ECB2_Windlass6.jpg.1c4dc7c8c567e2d87d3cf322ee865135.jpg

The cross bitt on the right needs trimming.  It mounts above the drum, stabilizes the bitts (and hides a good deal of the view of the windlass.

Maury

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Thanks for the comments, all.  More on the windlass.  I re-turned the barrels with a hole for a 1/16" axle.  All the parts of the drum section are shown.  The gears are Alexander Scale Models (Railroad) contributed by Randy Biddle.

ECB2_Windlass5.thumb.jpg.e339e6eb26110b0adba5b0af4c3b9498.jpg

The heads (end parts of the windlass) were turned down to 21/32", removed from the lathe and mounted on the mill (rotary table set vertical) and 1/16" scores or flat spots were cut across the length every 60 degrees of rotation to support the set of 6 whelps (to be made and installed).

Assembles pretty nicely on a piece of 1/16" tubing.

ECB2_Windlass6.jpg.1c4dc7c8c567e2d87d3cf322ee865135.jpg

The cross bitt on the right needs trimming.  It mounts above the drum, stabilizes the bitts (and hides a good deal of the view of the windlass.

Maury

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ECB2_Windlass7.thumb.jpg.d5354fe3f9ed2ed00c726941640bc6a1.jpg

Whelps made, gears blackened and pawl wheel painted (Iron Black).

Maury

Edited by Maury S
hoto
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Some minor tweaks to the windlass and a couple of purchase arms made.

ECB2_Windlass9.thumb.jpg.e8a29e7e5f2b39dd6cf3a03a934f4cea.jpg

 

ECB2_PurchaseArms1.thumb.jpg.28ebc82b2a398e4ebd3ea3af5bf14d82.jpg

Some cleanup on the arms to be done.

Maury

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SLOW PROGRESS:  Rocker arm, rods and purchase arms plus several shackles. 

ECB2_PurchaseArms-rocker.thumb.jpg.49902039c3ac50684063f085d1abcf55.jpg

The (copper) tabs on the square (brass) tubing were a bear to hold and solder (Maybe they weren't touching the tubing on the first three tries).  Shackles are copper wire bent to shape.  The pins for the shackles are 30 lb. test monofilament (black line) line.  Touching the ends with soldering iron flattens them enough to stay tight while providing substantial holding ability.

Maury

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  • 5 weeks later...

Very little progress.  I made mast hoops.  Saturday, I made the Main and Fore masts.

ECB2_Masts1.thumb.jpg.25a59ddb90978aeed2b77e979b26ea5c.jpg

Since the masts are round (except for the tops), I tried making them on the lathe (more learning experiences since all previous spars were hand made with 7--10-7 layouts).  The tops were scored with the table saw and chiseled to the correct taper.  There is only one hole for an eyebolt, so that was drilled while the sticks were still square before mounting in the lathe.  Center was marked at the top end.  I started from the top with about 2" from the vise jaws, turned with a taper (from 0.21" to 0.25"),  hand sanded, then moved the stick and repeated several times until I approached the heel, where it tapers from 0.25" to 0.17".  I have to remove some material at the heel to fit into the mast steps.  Top mast, booms and gaffs are next.

 

Maury

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Very little progress.  I made mast hoops.  Saturday, I made the Main and Fore masts.

ECB2_Masts1.thumb.jpg.25a59ddb90978aeed2b77e979b26ea5c.jpg

Since the masts are round (except for the tops), I tried making them on the lathe (more learning experiences since all previous spars were hand made with 7--10-7 layouts).  The tops were scored with the table saw and chiseled to the correct taper.  There is only one hole for an eyebolt, so that was drilled while the sticks were still square before mounting in the lathe.  Center was marked at the top end.  I started from the top with about 2" from the vise jaws, turned with a taper (from 0.21" to 0.25"),  hand sanded, then moved the stick and repeated several times until I approached the heel, where it tapers from 0.25" to 0.17".  I have to remove some material at the heel to fit into the mast steps.  Top mast, booms and gaffs are next.

 

Maury

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Druxey, Thanks for the tip.

M

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Top Mast, booms and gaffs were next.  They too were done on the lathe...getting better each time.  I left a square end in place for now since they give me a means of keeping the jaws aligned.  Once they were turned, I set each spar (supported by the square end) on the table and sanded flat the last 1.25" for the jaws so they fit snug.   Per the only plan of her as a schooner as well as several photos, the fore gaff ( 2nd to bottom) is about the same length as the fore boom and has not yet been cut to length.

ECB2_BoomsGaffs1.thumb.jpg.8f428cc3e6792929c5dfbd92a93366cc.jpg

 

The jaws were rough cut on the scroll saw and hand-sanded in pairs.

ECB2_Jaws.thumb.jpg.a4737b1d86b41ceceae5c1aa42e08fb0.jpg

They need cleaning up.

Maury

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  • 3 weeks later...

Work on the booms and gaffs.

815195485_ECB2_CleatsBooms.thumb.jpg.db45a9c3a5deb7f83191b58c146143bf.jpg

I file the booms flat where the cleats go.  There is a hole .02" thru the center and hardened copper wire to reinforce.

Metal work for the booms includes a bridle for the sheets.  They are formed from brass strip and drilled out using the sensitive drilling attachment on the mill.

989248398_ECB2_DrillBridles.thumb.jpg.f4b6d9e3f4b47f82cc47ae9b40101ae6.jpg

After soldering...

ECB2_Bridle-0.thumb.jpg.41c74cf8616216031582e8a721bd3882.jpg

Soldered, pickled, and blackened.  Bottom of main boom on top, top of fore boom on the bottom.

 

1470366750_ECB2_Bridlesbooms2.thumb.jpg.c8686d49de759505effa5b61511b0671.jpg

All the booms and gaffs will be painted white.

Maury

 

Edited by Maury S
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Good metal work.....

 

Rob

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

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Thanks, Rob.  It's getting better.

More work on the spars.  The masts each have five cleats evenly spaced around the mast from zero degrees, 45, 90, 135 and 180.  Since the sensitive drilling attachment was already on, I used the rotary table set up on the mill to drill the holes for the reinforcing wire. 

ECB2_MastCleatsetup.thumb.jpg.cabae0859c9453287b7ed0ff962dcbb6.jpg

The center of the cleats (5mm) are at the level of the cap rail so this process assured they all are in the same plane.  Now to lay out the top and spreader on the main mast.

 

Maury

 

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I'm going to stick to the belt and avoid the suspenders.  A flat surface for the cleat to seat is probably all I need.  All the cleats will have rigging lines attached and I doubt there will be much twisting force.  

Maury

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More work on the spars:

112252854_ECB2_Sparscorr.jpg.aa057bfb0482282187d8064101fd2b74.jpg

Clappers inserted, etc.

 

Mast band C holds the foot of the top mast and the spreader.  It's shown on plan and after metal work.  Ignore the size notations on the plan...it's for a 1:32 model:

ECB2_MastBandC-Corr.jpg.fc12e9db5064a6e6293b3eaec161fe7a.jpg

ECB2_MastBandCcorr2.jpg.851df59a97f3282a7e1dc328ef487784.jpg

I tried making it in brass and couldn't get it soldered.  Switched to copper and it came together just fine.  Needs trimming and cleaning up.

Maury

 

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Mast Bands:  Now that I was sure I could fabricate the mast bands, I formed the various parts for each of the 5 bands:

ECB2_MastBands5.thumb.jpg.e06558d9de7d0e99985a5af81033b9c0.jpg

 

Using the flux-containing solder provided enough "stickiness" to hold the pieces together while soldering.  After a bit of cleanup, they were test-fitted.  More minor cleanup (filing) and blackening (using LOS) to do.

ECB2_MastBands6.thumb.jpg.89c6501d16007c5a889323c3fe9e2fb9.jpg

 

The lower piece at the top of the mast has a tab on the fore and aft end and vertical tabs on each side all held in place for one pass of the torch.

 

Maury

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  • 2 weeks later...

Main mast top:    looking aft

ECB2_MMasthead1.thumb.jpg.52a9f015d568f5bf6336e06f9fb60142.jpg

 

Looking fwd:

ECB2_MMasthead2.thumb.jpg.279d30b88670859a3a2e9254d5ff07e0.jpg

 

Slow progress.

Maury

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SPREADER:  I had to re-design the spreader.  The original was directly above the trestle trees and would have interfered with the top mast shrouds.  The spreader is now swept back so the shrouds will be clear.

ECB2_Spreader4.thumb.jpg.a0a4767e2f0e1a9680d5e9dd491308c1.jpg

 

ECB2_Spreader3.thumb.jpg.03146732a9b3c281e32710a68397219a.jpg

Maury

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Metalwork continued---Chain Plates:  They are laid out clearly on the plan sheet.  (Ignore the notes on scale).

 

ECB2_ChainPlateDiag.thumb.jpg.e1fd2bf1f92b94bb9e9c476cc93433a3.jpg

 

Translated to copper, filed, drilled and blackened with LOS:

ECB2_ChainPlates1.thumb.jpg.2f18b5e680ed18b5e9833595cec9334b.jpg

The pair holding the topmast backstay are set with shackles, not deadeyes.

Maury

Edited by Maury S
typo
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Lots of nice work there Maury, The metal work is fiddly stuff but rewarding when it comes together well.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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