Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner

[Maury S]

It's been over 24 hours since the glue repair and I've put in another strake at the bow.  So far, so good.  I just have to remember to never put the boat upside down with the stem touching the table.  That's always going to be a potential for trouble.

Maury

[niwotwill]

Glad its holding.  I've been using a piece of 3" thick foam rubber cut to fit inside the bulwarks to protect the stem and make a firm steady working medium. I buy the foam at a fabric store and its normal use is seat cushioning.

 

 

 

[druxey]

With that style of stem I temporarily glue a block of wood amidships on the bulwark top so that, when inverted, the stemhead is clear of the work surface.

[Maury S]

Checking on the fairness of the planking runs...

Fuzzy pics. but the lines are fair from many angles.  After two of seven strakes in the middle band, I've re-measured for width and have made adjustments (a few thousands of an inch) here and there.  The stem repair is holding for now.

Maury

 

 

[Maury S]

Druxey, Thanks for the tip re. the protective block(s).  I glued a couple of MDF blocks to the covering board to protect the stem head.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

The use of MDF was a mistake.  The fibers do not glue well.  They got knocked off easily.  Replaced with wood.

 

Maury

[druxey]

That should solve the problem!

[Tony Hunt]

I like the way you've joggled the aft hood ends of the garboard strakes where they end on the deadwood.  A clever way to avoid them ending in a point, that would be difficult / impossible to caulk properly. 

 

I'm intrigued to see a deadwood stern on an American vessel. They were common on a ship type I have a particular interest in here in Australia (pearling luggers) but I can't recall seeing them much anywhere else.  They have always struck me as a bit of a "lazy man's" approach the framing and planking the stern, much easier to both frame and plank, but perhaps not quite as efficient a hydrodynamic shape compared to the more typical "wineglass" shape that is planked down to the heel of the sternpost.

[Maury S]

Tony, re. deadwood stern;  I don't know how widely used the design was, but the "Noank built boats" were all quite similar.  Nibbed  planking at the stern is right off the plan set derived at Mystic.

Maury

[Maury S]

Planking continues...I am finishing the A band (upper) before completing the B band (middle).  This way, if there are any flaws in the final plank spiling they will not be visible when displayed.

 

 

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Planking is nearing completion.  Regardless of the best laid plans, some stealers were necessary amidships.  Below is the plank that is part that goes from 2 planks to three.  This piece goes from about .085" to .125" at the joint where 2 becomes 3.

With its mated pair, the third plank will go between the two shown.

Below is the port side (inverted) fully planked with the stealer in place.

The final strakes will be done on the starboard side and sanding will commence.  Can't take too much off since I started with 1/32" stock.

 

Maury

 

 

Edited August 31, 2021 by Maury S

[Maury S]

Before deck planking goes in, I need to do the coamings for the cabin, the wet well and the hatch.  I cut blocks from scrap that fit the openings and used them a a form for holding the coamings pieces.  They are 5" tall, 3" wide and the joints are lapped.

Once the glue has set, I used the same forms to hold the coamings while I sanded off the stub ends.

 

Maury

[Maury S]

The only opening that has grating is the wet well.  Everything was done on the Byrnes table saw.  Started out with a 1/16" piece about 1.75" sq.  The blade thickness is .057" with is about 2 3/4" at scale. I cut a shim 2x the blade width.  First cross-cut dado is near the edge and about 1/32" deep.  I left it sitting on the blade and moved the fence out the thickness of the shim and tightened down the fence.  Second cross-cut made and the re-set of the fence repeated about 12 times.  I then ripped the dadoed piece into strips the width of the blade.

 

Battens were cut the width of the dados and sanded to about .04" thick which leaves them about .02" proud.  To set the spacing I put 7 dadoed strips onto two inverted strips that held them at the correct spacing.  Then the battens were glued in the slots and clamped while the glue set.

The battens will be sanded flush with the tops of the dadoed pieces and the edges finished.  The explanation is a bit simpler than the execution.  I chose a saw blade after a bunch of calculations of spacing and working with little pieces while holding everything square can be challenging.

 

Maury

[Tony Hunt]

Making gratings - the eternal challenge!

[Maury S]

Edges of grating finished.

Both the coamings and the grate are to be oiled.

Maury

[ChiefClanker]

Maury S,

What does POF stand for?  

Thank you,

Chief Mark

 

[mtaylor]

1 hour ago, Chief Mark said:

Maury S,

What does POF stand for?  

Thank you,

Chief Mark

 

POF = Plank on Frame    POB = Plank on Bulkhead.

[ChiefClanker]

Thank you. 

[Maury S]

King plank made and installed.

Maury

[druxey]

Nicely done, but normally the term 'king plank' refers to a single strake straddling the centerline, surely?

[Maury S]

Druxey, the plan shows four strakes in the "king plank".  It is 50% thicker than the surrounding planking.

Maury

[Maury S]

Randy Biddle pointed out a hatch out-of-square.  Back to the ISO bottle.

Plan showing "king plank".

The measurements shown are in 1:32 scale.  Multiply by .667 to get to 1:48.

Maury

[yvesvidal]

If my memory is correct, the Model Shipways plan only shows three planks for the "King Plank". At least that is what I did on my model.

A very wide plank in the middle and two smaller ones on the sides.

 

Yves

Edited September 10, 2021 by yvesvidal

[Sea Hoss]

Yes, I believe you are right about the 3 planks making up "the king plank". What appears to be two in the center is actually one with the center line down the middle. 

[druxey]

Sea Hoss is correct: the center line is simply that - a center line, not a seam, as there are breaks in it at intervals. The king plank is very wide.

[davec]

I was at Mystic Seaport a week ago.  I wasn't specifically taking king plank pictures, but did get the section in Maury's plan in one of my photos.  As restored, there is one wide central plank with a narrower adjacent one on either side, exactly as in the plan.

Edited September 13, 2021 by davec

[Maury S]

So the plan may show one wider and two narrower planks (The centerline shown, not the center of four planks.)

Hatches re-done.    They are within 2 /1000s of square.  They are just set in place...and one of the carlings is ever so slightly out of alignment.  It will be planked over.Cabin finished, but top not yet painted and doors not yet made.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maury

 

[druxey]

I bet the full-size hatches weren't within 2 thou of square! Nice, Maury.

[Maury S]

Back in the shipyard.  The covering board top and edges are painted "Cream".  Four coats of thinned paint.  I painted them before any more deck planking went on.

 

Deck planking is 2" x 4" and oiled.  I cut the planks on the Byrnes table saw and stained with an alcohol stain from Micro-Mark.  Four or five coats and a wipe with some graphite brought them to the right color.  BTW, this pretty much matches the color of the deck on the boat in Mystic.

Hopefully this will be enough.

Maury

[niwotwill]

I like the work you're doing its coming along beautifully. I only wonder if the grey deck is not brown/grey enough. A couple photos of the Charles W. Morgan deck for reference.

 

Deck when dry

 

Deck wet from a rainy day

 

I hope I'm not being to critical.