Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner

[niwotwill]

Thanks Maury. I'll file that away for future use.

 

Regard

Will

[Maury S]

Rudder:  The rudder is held on with two straps rather the the typical pinon arrangement.

 

 

Wheel box:  I don't remember where I got the wheel, but after filing and blackening it looks pretty close to the photos I have.

 

 

Maury

[Maury S]

The mooring bitts, mooring chock blocks and lashing rails are in.

 

 

Yet to be painted.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Some time on the lathe and mill.  I'm a novice with these tools, but getting better.  Starting with the simplest pieces, I center drilled a 1/2" block (1/8" then 1/4") for the two mast coats at the deck level)(that would have been canvas.  Turned the block down to about 3/8" and tapered them. (upper two pieces)

The remaining pieces are parts of the windlass.  The pawl wheel (or gear) was turned to the outside diameter and the block, still in the 4-jaw chuck was moved to the rotating table (set upright) on the mill.  I used a 1/8" end mill, rotating 30 degrees every cut to make the cogs.  After that was parted off, I sliced several spacers of various thicknesses that will separate the pawl wheel from the gears (not shown) and the bitts.  The cylindrical pieces will form the drums.  Whelps not made yet.

Maury

Edited December 27, 2021 by Maury S

[druxey]

Lathesmanship coming along, Maury! Nice progress.

[michael mott]

Just catching up Maury, nice progress, she is looking well in her colour coats.

 

Michael

[Maury S]

Thanks for the comments, all.  More on the windlass.  I re-turned the barrels with a hole for a 1/16" axle.  All the parts of the drum section are shown.  The gears are Alexander Scale Models (Railroad) contributed by Randy Biddle.

The heads (end parts of the windlass) were turned down to 21/32", removed from the lathe and mounted on the mill (rotary table set vertical) and 1/16" scores or flat spots were cut across the length every 60 degrees of rotation to support the set of 6 whelps (to be made and installed).

Assembles pretty nicely on a piece of 1/16" tubing.

The cross bitt on the right needs trimming.  It mounts above the drum, stabilizes the bitts (and hides a good deal of the view of the windlass.

Maury

[Maury S]

Thanks for the comments, all.  More on the windlass.  I re-turned the barrels with a hole for a 1/16" axle.  All the parts of the drum section are shown.  The gears are Alexander Scale Models (Railroad) contributed by Randy Biddle.

The heads (end parts of the windlass) were turned down to 21/32", removed from the lathe and mounted on the mill (rotary table set vertical) and 1/16" scores or flat spots were cut across the length every 60 degrees of rotation to support the set of 6 whelps (to be made and installed).

Assembles pretty nicely on a piece of 1/16" tubing.

The cross bitt on the right needs trimming.  It mounts above the drum, stabilizes the bitts (and hides a good deal of the view of the windlass.

Maury

[Maury S]

Whelps made, gears blackened and pawl wheel painted (Iron Black).

Maury

Edited January 1, 2022 by Maury S
hoto

[druxey]

Neat result, Maury!

[Maury S]

Some minor tweaks to the windlass and a couple of purchase arms made.

 

Some cleanup on the arms to be done.

Maury

[Maury S]

SLOW PROGRESS:  Rocker arm, rods and purchase arms plus several shackles. 

The (copper) tabs on the square (brass) tubing were a bear to hold and solder (Maybe they weren't touching the tubing on the first three tries).  Shackles are copper wire bent to shape.  The pins for the shackles are 30 lb. test monofilament (black line) line.  Touching the ends with soldering iron flattens them enough to stay tight while providing substantial holding ability.

Maury

[Maury S]

Very little progress.  I made mast hoops.  Saturday, I made the Main and Fore masts.

Since the masts are round (except for the tops), I tried making them on the lathe (more learning experiences since all previous spars were hand made with 7--10-7 layouts).  The tops were scored with the table saw and chiseled to the correct taper.  There is only one hole for an eyebolt, so that was drilled while the sticks were still square before mounting in the lathe.  Center was marked at the top end.  I started from the top with about 2" from the vise jaws, turned with a taper (from 0.21" to 0.25"),  hand sanded, then moved the stick and repeated several times until I approached the heel, where it tapers from 0.25" to 0.17".  I have to remove some material at the heel to fit into the mast steps.  Top mast, booms and gaffs are next.

 

Maury

[druxey]

That tab soldering issue, Maury: It might help on another occasion to slit the tubing and insert the tabs to solder them.

[Maury S]

Very little progress.  I made mast hoops.  Saturday, I made the Main and Fore masts.

Since the masts are round (except for the tops), I tried making them on the lathe (more learning experiences since all previous spars were hand made with 7--10-7 layouts).  The tops were scored with the table saw and chiseled to the correct taper.  There is only one hole for an eyebolt, so that was drilled while the sticks were still square before mounting in the lathe.  Center was marked at the top end.  I started from the top with about 2" from the vise jaws, turned with a taper (from 0.21" to 0.25"),  hand sanded, then moved the stick and repeated several times until I approached the heel, where it tapers from 0.25" to 0.17".  I have to remove some material at the heel to fit into the mast steps.  Top mast, booms and gaffs are next.

 

Maury

[Maury S]

Druxey, Thanks for the tip.

M

[Maury S]

Top Mast, booms and gaffs were next.  They too were done on the lathe...getting better each time.  I left a square end in place for now since they give me a means of keeping the jaws aligned.  Once they were turned, I set each spar (supported by the square end) on the table and sanded flat the last 1.25" for the jaws so they fit snug.   Per the only plan of her as a schooner as well as several photos, the fore gaff ( 2nd to bottom) is about the same length as the fore boom and has not yet been cut to length.

 

The jaws were rough cut on the scroll saw and hand-sanded in pairs.

They need cleaning up.

Maury

[Maury S]

Work on the booms and gaffs.

I file the booms flat where the cleats go.  There is a hole .02" thru the center and hardened copper wire to reinforce.

Metal work for the booms includes a bridle for the sheets.  They are formed from brass strip and drilled out using the sensitive drilling attachment on the mill.

After soldering...

Soldered, pickled, and blackened.  Bottom of main boom on top, top of fore boom on the bottom.

 

All the booms and gaffs will be painted white.

Maury

 

Edited February 28, 2022 by Maury S

[rwiederrich]

Good metal work.....

 

Rob

[Maury S]

Thanks, Rob.  It's getting better.

More work on the spars.  The masts each have five cleats evenly spaced around the mast from zero degrees, 45, 90, 135 and 180.  Since the sensitive drilling attachment was already on, I used the rotary table set up on the mill to drill the holes for the reinforcing wire. 

The center of the cleats (5mm) are at the level of the cap rail so this process assured they all are in the same plane.  Now to lay out the top and spreader on the main mast.

 

Maury

 

[Windships]

Maury

 

I know nothing about using a mill, but suggest you make a slight (in depth) vertical mortise in which to set each cleat.

Otherwise they might turn on the axis of the reinforcing wire, even though you also glue the cleats to the mast.

 

BIDDLE

[druxey]

Certainly a belt-and-braces approach that I've used in the past!

[Maury S]

I'm going to stick to the belt and avoid the suspenders.  A flat surface for the cleat to seat is probably all I need.  All the cleats will have rigging lines attached and I doubt there will be much twisting force.  

Maury

[Maury S]

More work on the spars:

Clappers inserted, etc.

 

Mast band C holds the foot of the top mast and the spreader.  It's shown on plan and after metal work.  Ignore the size notations on the plan...it's for a 1:32 model:

I tried making it in brass and couldn't get it soldered.  Switched to copper and it came together just fine.  Needs trimming and cleaning up.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Mast Bands:  Now that I was sure I could fabricate the mast bands, I formed the various parts for each of the 5 bands:

 

Using the flux-containing solder provided enough "stickiness" to hold the pieces together while soldering.  After a bit of cleanup, they were test-fitted.  More minor cleanup (filing) and blackening (using LOS) to do.

 

The lower piece at the top of the mast has a tab on the fore and aft end and vertical tabs on each side all held in place for one pass of the torch.

 

Maury

[Maury S]

Main mast top:    looking aft

 

Looking fwd:

 

Slow progress.

Maury

[Maury S]

SPREADER:  I had to re-design the spreader.  The original was directly above the trestle trees and would have interfered with the top mast shrouds.  The spreader is now swept back so the shrouds will be clear.

 

Maury

[druxey]

Good thinking ahead, Maury!

[Maury S]

Metalwork continued---Chain Plates:  They are laid out clearly on the plan sheet.  (Ignore the notes on scale).

 

 

Translated to copper, filed, drilled and blackened with LOS:

The pair holding the topmast backstay are set with shackles, not deadeyes.

Maury

Edited March 28, 2022 by Maury S
typo

[michael mott]

Lots of nice work there Maury, The metal work is fiddly stuff but rewarding when it comes together well.

 

Michael