bigcreekdad Posted March 19, 2021 Share #1 Posted March 19, 2021 I used to at least rip decent planks. Now, I van't get the width so be continuous through the whole cut. After 6 or so inches, it starts decreasing. Frustrated. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted March 19, 2021 Share #2 Posted March 19, 2021 Are you keeping the wood against the fence the whole way? My guess is you might not be keeping it flush towards the end of the cut. I had similar issues when I was starting out. Maybe it's also binding after the saw? Once I set the front of the fence, I push the backside out slightly to get a little more clearance since the saw doesn't come with a splitter. Canute, allanyed, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted March 19, 2021 Share #3 Posted March 19, 2021 It would help a lot to know exactly how you are doing the cutting. What is the set up on the table, whether you are using the fence alone, have you checked the fence is square etc. It's a Byrnes. 👍 The answer is somewhere in the details ... thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BETAQDAVE Posted March 19, 2021 Share #4 Posted March 19, 2021 My "antique" Craftsman 8 inch table saw (1936 vintage) with its cast iron top is still my go to tool for ripping planks. I use a narrow kerf ripping blade, which while it still takes a rather wide chunk of wood, it has the HP to slice through the toughest woods like butter. The key for me is the set up, I can consistently peal off planks down to 1/64" thick once it is set up properly. Roger Pellett, thibaultron, bruce d and 3 others 5 1 Quote Dave “You’ve just got to know your limitations” Dirty Harry Current Builds: Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer. Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower. (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move] Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II, MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings, a scratch build 3/16” scale Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin P. Posted March 19, 2021 Share #5 Posted March 19, 2021 Perhaps looking into a feather board mod might help? I too have trouble occasionally making cuts and a lot of the time the answer comes down to how Im holding/supporting the wood, blade height choice and feed speed. Many of the videos online about doing similar things on full size table saws have directly applicable tips that can be helpful to understand the mechanics of what you are asking your tool to do. Canute, thibaultron, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Current: US Brig SYREN - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 Completed: HMS TRITON - Cross Section - Scale 1:48 / Gallery Secret Vessel MOREL - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36 / Gallery 18th Century Armed Longboat - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24 / Gallery HMS BOUNTY Launch - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 / Gallery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted March 19, 2021 Share #6 Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) It took me a while to learn, but it's important to not only keep the piece of wood down on the table, but also against the fence. Featherboards help, but are a little hard on such a small saw (I sometimes clamp a steel ruler against the fence to serve as a featherboard). Push sticks are usually the way to go (and are much safer than getting your fingers too close). Not sure how long your pieces of wood are, but I find that issues tend to multiply as the pieces get longer. Edited March 19, 2021 by Landlubber Mike Canute, thibaultron, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Green Posted March 19, 2021 Share #7 Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) As per above, set a feather-board just in front of the blades entry point. If there is room, set another feather-board in front of the that one. For a small model-saw, you may have to make your own feather-boards and be creative in how to anchor them. Do not vary the feed speed - don't pause halfway through to change your stance or grip - use one continuous push. Variations in the hardness of a piece of wood will effect the amount of wood the blade will remove. Check the fence's alignment. A tiny amount of relief/angulation away from the blade will prevent the back-side of the blade from rubbing and removing additional wood after the blade's front-side has accomplished the cut. This angulation will also help prevent kick-back. It just came to my attention you are using a Byrnes Saw. Jim machines 0.005 inch relief on the out-feed side of his fences to prevent kick-back and blade-drag as the wood passes the back-side of the blade. Make sure your fence is aligned straight on the infeed. Edited March 19, 2021 by Charles Green Additional Information Chuck Seiler, Canute, thibaultron and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted March 19, 2021 Share #8 Posted March 19, 2021 I suggest going back to the above pinned thread about Byrnes saws. On it you will find a post from a guy who used his Byrnes saw to produce wood strips for sale. Instead of using featherboards to keep the wood pushed against the fence he found that it worked better to use a block of wood. I tried this and it worked. I also second Charles Green’s post to check fence alignment. You will find Jim Byrnes instructions for doing this in the thread that I mentioned. As a precision tool using metal cutting blades fence misalignment in the thousands of an inch matters. I also agree with Dave’s post above. I checked the fence misalignment for my 10in Delta Contractor’s Saw. It has a non-linear bow of .03in. Despite this it has the power to chew its way through about anything. These small table saws lack that power. Once the wood passing through the saw slows down resin begins to build up on cutting surfaces causing binding and kickback. Thoroughly clean your blades. After scraping off deposits with a razor blade I followed someone else’s advice and bought a spray can of oven cleaner. It worked great. I was about to scrap several blades but once I cleaned them and touched them up with a triangular sharpening stone they are ready to go again. Roger thibaultron, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted March 19, 2021 Share #9 Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) I was getting a lot of binding on my Byrnes saw, and Jim suggested pushing the back end out a bit. That really helped my binding issues. Edited March 19, 2021 by Landlubber Mike Canute, thibaultron, bruce d and 1 other 3 1 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted March 19, 2021 Share #10 Posted March 19, 2021 Which blade are you using, what wood are you cutting, is the fence square, is the blade sharp, does it have resin on it, are you cutting the planks on the width side or thickness side? Jim mtaylor, bruce d, thibaultron and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted March 19, 2021 Share #11 Posted March 19, 2021 It sounds like the blade is wandering. This is more of a problem with a bandsaw - and it occurs with me even with a high power quality machine- IF the blade is becoming dull - continuing on usually produces a BANG fairly quickly - - snapped blade - so there is no advantage in pushing. SO, in light of this, Iis your blade too thin? Are there too many teeth on the blade for the thickness of the stock? Is the blade becoming dull? The Byrnes saw motor is powerful enough to drive a too thin, too many teeth, dull blade thru too thick stock without slowing down, so the blade will do the protesting. bruce d, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigcreekdad Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share #12 Posted March 19, 2021 Wow....thanks for all the feedback. I've got a bit of homework to do. thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted March 20, 2021 Share #13 Posted March 20, 2021 On 3/19/2021 at 3:23 PM, bigcreekdad said: Wow....thanks for all the feedback. I've got a bit of homework to do. On 3/19/2021 at 10:31 AM, jimbyr said: Which blade are you using, what wood are you cutting, is the fence square, is the blade sharp, does it have resin on it, are you cutting the planks on the width side or thickness side? Answer Jim Byrnes' questions above and, odds are, he will solve your problem in short order. I'm guessing you didn't realize "jimbyr" is the famous man himself. Justin P., bruce d, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigcreekdad Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share #14 Posted April 5, 2021 JimByr....can you expand on your question re: "width side to Thickness side"? Thanks/John mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted April 5, 2021 Share #15 Posted April 5, 2021 John Don't know what everyone else does but this is what I do. If you're cutting planks say 3/16" wide x 1/16 thick what I do first is cut my stock from a billet on the band saw about 7/32 wide x 2" . Then I run them through the thickness sander down to 3/16" so now I have a piece of stock 3/16 x 2" + or -.001 on the 3/16 thickness. Then to the saw with a 3" .03 slitting blade and cut the planks 1/16 thick. After you glue the planks on you're going to sand them so the 1/6 thickness really doesn't matter much regards Jim Bill Tuttle, mtaylor, Ryland Craze and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.