OREGON DLOG - developing the BlueJacket kit

[alross2]

First coat of white primer this morning.  Prior to that, I had just mounted the PE torpedo tube covers and the 6 pdr hull casemates and hinges.

[alross2]

Let's be honest; not everyone reads and follows instructions. While this isn't a good idea in kits with lots of premade parts, it happens. So, one of the challenges in kit design is to tailor your illustrations for this potential situation. While thinking about the text for this process, I realized that the initial illustration (while just fine if you read the instructions) might be better if it mimicked the text more closely. Thus, the second illustration.

[mtaylor]

4 hours ago, alross2 said:

Let's be honest; not everyone reads and follows instructions.

As a former tech writer, I can attest to this 100%.   Some times, the builders ignore the blueprints also because "they know better".

[alross2]

You go, Mark!  If I get a call from someone having a problem with one of the kits I developed, first thing I ask them is whether they read the instructions.  If not, I tell them to back and read them, then call me.  Because there is so much laser and photo-etch, there is a specific sequence to be followed that isn't necessarily intuitive.  I used to develop training materials and procedures for the nuclear power industry and taught technical writing at a college.

[alross2]

I'm working on the OREGON instructions today and decided the text on setting the bilge keels needed an enhanced illustration to accompany the jig illustration. The dimension from the rudder post to the aft end of the bilge keel will be filled in when I get back to the model in my shop and measure it.

[alross2]

The sponsons below the overhang of the 6" casemates are a simple shape but a bugger to get right.

[Bill Hudson]

Thought this might be of interest:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Oregon_(BB-3)

[alross2]

Finish coat of white is now on the hull and superstructure and the mast is finished except for the binnacle and railing, which won't go on until the mast is in place on the model.

 

 

 

 

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[alross2]

OK, bottom color on this AM. After peeling away all of the masking tape, I found some underbleed on the deck, but that's easily removed. The next activity will be adding the photo-etched coal scuttles and bases for the deck furniture.

 

The waterline masking was a little tricky, as it is 1/16" below the top of the armor belt.  I taped off the hull along the top of the armor belt with 1/4" striping tape, then used 1/16" striping tape below that.  Regular painters' masking tape was applied from the 1/16" tape up.  The first layer of color was from  rattlecan of red primer, followed by an airbrushing of flat red.

[alross2]

Starting to put on the little stuff. This is the aft portion of the main deck with bitts and hatches.

[alross2]

Test fitting one of the twelve gunner's grates to the inside of the hammock net structure. The brass section at the ladder is 3/8" tall. The white strip is .020" styrene.

[dcicero]

On 5/14/2021 at 9:56 AM, alross2 said:

OK, bottom color on this AM. After peeling away all of the masking tape, I found some underbleed on the deck, but that's easily removed.

 

How do you remove underbleed like that?  I've messed this up so many times, I find ways to avoid situation where it might happen.

 

 

Dan

 

[alross2]

3 hours ago, dcicero said:

 

How do you remove underbleed like that?  I've messed this up so many times, I find ways to avoid situation where it might happen.

 

 

Dan

 

The best way to remove it is not to get it...  I don't get it very often because I double or triple mask, first with pin striping tape (1/16' or 1/8"), then an overlap of 1/4" tape, then another overlap with low tack painter's tape (and paper if it's a large surface.  Still, stuff happens sometimes.  The underbleed I normally get is between the hull and a bright finished deck.  In most cases, I use a very sharp #11 blade and cut alongside any objects against which the underbleed rests.  This gives a nice sharp edge to end against when scraping.  Then, depending on the size of the area around the paint, I scrape with the grain towards the sharp edge using a variety of chisel blades and a razor blade.  You need a gentle touch and to keep the blade vertical.  If it's paint on paint, now you have a definite problem.  If it's gloss paint and the base coat is well cured, you can use a Q tip dipped in a mild thinner and lightly swab aqay the underbled color.  Sometimes you can use automotive polishing compound and a soft cloth on some paints, as well.  In all probability, with a paint on paint problem, you're probably going to have to remask and repaint.  FAIR WARNING:  I seldom brush paint any large surface.  Generally, I use an airbrush and sometimes a rattle can.  Consequently, I'm not sure how well this would work with a brushed surface.  

 

    

[alross2]

It never fails. We have two nice chain stops in the fittings - neither one fits OREGON. So, I made up a brass master this AM from brass tube, brass channel, and solder. There will be four per kit.

[ccoyle]

35 minutes ago, alross2 said:

We have two nice chain stops in the fittings - neither one fits OREGON. So, I made up a brass master this AM from brass tube, brass channel, and solder. There will be four per kit.

 

Which is awesome. Some manufacturers might have simply shrugged and used the off-the-shelf fittings.

[alross2]

Bow section with most of the bases for the various bits and pieces.

 

 

[alross2]

Some of the photo-etched coal scuttles.

 

[Azzoun]

Is there an expected timing on go-to-market?