3d printing process

[Jasseji]

20 minutes ago, Egilman said:

The promised update when I could actually see what it's doing...

 

Clear Resin, absolutely amazing....

 

A shot of the LED's doing their thing....

 

I know I'm gonna have fun doing this...  Half way through, 1.5 hours to go before washing and curing.... (still praying that it doesn't fail)

 

EG

Try this

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4149818

 

You need to Support IT first tho, i think I'll use Lychee

 

 

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Jasseji said:

Try this

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4149818

 

You need to Support IT first tho, i think I'll use Lychee

 

 

That is an interesting piece, but it's not a subject I'm interested in unfortunately... (but, miniature figures are the biggest draw to 3D modeling at this time) I'm more into traditional modeling of real world things... And I've found a test piece that fits all the conditions I set up for my second test.... A rose, (in Anycubic's slicer) I'm doing two of them at the same time, they will have parts that need to be glued together... A better test of my intentions...

 

The Anycubic test cube has finished and has been washed and is getting it's final UV cure.....

Complete and sitting on my desk....

This is the neatest thing since the Exacto knife..... Damn impressive if you ask me...

 

I've got the rose printing now, another 4 hr print, the turnaround from finish to starting the next print is all of abut 15 minutes and that was my first time...

 

I'm very impressed... A very easy process....

 

EG

[PRS]

29 minutes ago, Egilman said:

That is an interesting piece, but it's not a subject I'm interested in unfortunately... (but, miniature figures are the biggest draw to 3D modeling at this time) I'm more into traditional modeling of real world things... And I've found a test piece that fits all the conditions I set up for my second test.... A rose, (in Anycubic's slicer) I'm doing two of them at the same time, they will have parts that need to be glued together... A better test of my intentions...

 

The Anycubic test cube has finished and has been washed and is getting it's final UV cure.....

Complete and sitting on my desk....

This is the neatest thing since the Exacto knife..... Damn impressive if you ask me...

 

I've got the rose printing now, another 4 hr print, the turnaround from finish to starting the next print is all of abut 15 minutes and that was my first time...

 

I'm very impressed... A very easy process....

 

EG

Very interesting...

 

So how is the smell when you are printing?

 

I think if I pull the trigger and get one of these I will stick to using the water washable resin so I don't have to deal with the IPA in large quantities.

 

Easiest way to find files is search from Yeggi. https://www.yeggi.com

 

You can find stuff like this: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/canon-gribeauval-6x-servants-et-cuirassier-enbonus

 

 

 

 

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, PRS said:

Very interesting...

 

So how is the smell when you are printing?

 

I think if I pull the trigger and get one of these I will stick to using the water washable resin so I don't have to deal with the IPA in large quantities.

 

Easiest way to find files is search from Yeggi. https://www.yeggi.com

 

You can find stuff like this: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/canon-gribeauval-6x-servants-et-cuirassier-enbonus

 

 

 

 

I've had no smell whatsoever from the Anycubic resin, and the admiral who is sensitive to such hasn't either... Of course the IPA smells like a medical wound care ward when the wash tank is opened but it dissipates quickly.... (and is a non toxic cleaner disinfectant, safe as long as you don't drink it)

 

I too am eventually going to go to waterbased resin as well... 2 gal of IPA is $25 from wally world.... (sold in quarts) Water comes from the faucet for pennies a gallon... I believe that WB resins are about 25% cheaper than their industrial cousins as well...

 

Yeah, I saw that site, lotsa models most of them free, some of them very, very nice... Predominantly for gamers though like most of the 3D file sites are... 

 

And that French cannon setup would be perfect for say a Waterloo diorama/vignette.... Thanks for the link, I'll add it to my collection of links...

[Patrick Matthews]

re: Water Washable... proceed carefully. It is NOT OK to wash parts in the sink and down the drain! Your wash water, containing uncured resin, needs to be treated like hazardous waste. 

I only use IPA, it's just not a problem. High volume users may have more to deal with, but there are techniques, read up on it.

 

My latest part, and it's marine related- for a DUKW! A 5" OD tire printed in flexible resin:

 

.

 

Edited September 24, 2021 by Patrick Matthews

[Jasseji]

9 hours ago, Egilman said:

That is an interesting piece, but it's not a subject I'm interested in unfortunately... (but, miniature figures are the biggest draw to 3D modeling at this time) I'm more into traditional modeling of real world things... And I've found a test piece that fits all the conditions I set up for my second test.... A rose, (in Anycubic's slicer) I'm doing two of them at the same time, they will have parts that need to be glued together... A better test of my intentions...

 

The Anycubic test cube has finished and has been washed and is getting it's final UV cure.....

Complete and sitting on my desk....

This is the neatest thing since the Exacto knife..... Damn impressive if you ask me...

 

I've got the rose printing now, another 4 hr print, the turnaround from finish to starting the next print is all of abut 15 minutes and that was my first time...

 

I'm very impressed... A very easy process....

 

EG

I am compiling a lostof interesting things to print, my Son likes Robots, hence taht got on my list

 

I am also hovering over the Trigger, Admiral is already convinced, we even agreed on converting one of the Storage Rooms in the Attic for this + some heavier machines (like lathe and proper airbrush station).

 

Now only if one could find proper Crew Figures for 1:64

 

Although i still think if it wouldnt be better to wait for the DLP Printer from AnyCubic

Edited September 24, 2021 by Jasseji

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Patrick Matthews said:

re: Water Washable... proceed carefully. It is NOT OK to wash parts in the sink and down the drain! Your wash water, containing uncured resin, needs to be treated like hazardous waste. 

I only use IPA, it's just not a problem. High volume users may have more to deal with, but there are techniques, read up on it.

 

My latest part, and it's marine related- for a DUKW! A 5" OD tire printed in flexible resin:

 

Any suggestions on where to read up on it Patrick?

 

One of the biggest problems with learning to do this is the absolute plethora of conflicting opinions being posted all over the net...  Using IPA isn't an issue except for the cost for some of us on limited incomes....

 

Nice tire, which printer are you using?

[Egilman]

44 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I am compiling a lost of interesting things to print, my Son likes Robots, hence that got on my list

 

I am also hovering over the Trigger, Admiral is already convinced, we even agreed on converting one of the Storage Rooms in the Attic for this + some heavier machines (like lathe and proper airbrush station).

 

Now only if one could find proper Crew Figures for 1:64

 

Although i still think if it wouldn't be better to wait for the DLP Printer from AnyCubic

1/64 scale figures.... Not a problem..

 

https://www.ebay.com/b/1-64-Figures/180506/bn_7023455365

 

Simple google search, you probably would have to doctor a few into the poses you want.... (on a 3D printer, you can make them any scale you want just find the files)

 

I hovered over a year on the Mono X the recent $200.00 drop in price tripped it for me.... 

 

From what I hear, middle of next year for DLP from Anycubic, (that's an estimated time) also the print standards will only be marginally better than MSLA.... (I think it is speculation cause the info really hasn't been officially released yet, but there is this ideal floating around in the heads of our younger crowds that newer is always better, that belief keeps the cell phone makers & car manufacturers in business)

 

I've read some fora where the manufacturers are already considering the future of filament printing now that high resolution resin printing is the cutting edge and prices are dropping.....

Still a lot of flux in the industry and gambling, the one thing for sure is it is the future and it's coming quickly....

[Jasseji]

9 minutes ago, Egilman said:

1/64 scale figures.... Not a problem..

 

https://www.ebay.com/b/1-64-Figures/180506/bn_7023455365

 

Simple google search, you probably would have to doctor a few into the poses you want.... (on a 3D printer, you can make them any scale you want just find the files)

 

I hovered over a year on the Mono X the recent $200.00 drop in price tripped it for me.... 

 

From what I hear, middle of next year for DLP from Anycubic, (that's an estimated time) also the print standards will only be marginally better than MSLA.... (I think it is speculation cause the info really hasn't been officially released yet, but there is this ideal floating around in the heads of our younger crowds that newer is always better, that belief keeps the cell phone makers & car manufacturers in business)

 

I've read some fora where the manufacturers are already considering the future of filament printing now that high resolution resin printing is the cutting edge and prices are dropping.....

Still a lot of flux in the industry and gambling, the one thing for sure is it is the future and it's coming quickly....

I know about the Hotwheels Figures, hower i am looking for 18th Century Stuff.

 

The only thing i found so far is modeled in 1:72, so would need to upscale, hence loosing detail.

 

I do know how to make 3D Models myself in Maya/Modo, however i hate doing character skeletons and especially posing them afterwards  

 

All the Gaming Figures just dont cut it somehow (Except i'd go with the "Sphinx-Egypt" Theme and do some Mymmy/Skeletons Crew

 

I am sure i will find something suitable sooner or later

 

[Egilman]

6 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I know about the Hotwheels Figures, hower i am looking for 18th Century Stuff.

 

The only thing i found so far is modeled in 1:72, so would need to upscale, hence loosing detail.

 

I do know how to make 3D Models myself in Maya/Modo, however i hate doing character skeletons and especially posing them afterwards  

 

All the Gaming Figures just dont cut it somehow (Except i'd go with the "Sphinx-Egypt" Theme and do some Mymmy/Skeletons Crew

 

I am sure i will find something suitable sooner or later

 

They'll become available eventually... The generic Chinese manufacturers are just beginning to discover the 1/64th scale market that Mijo stumbled across... They are already beginning to market the nudies in that scale on evilbay... That tells me the figures in that scale are here to stay for a while....

 

Gaming is a niche of what is actually possible, it's a big market yes, but a small fraction of the entire market... and currently desktop 3D printing is dominated by them, over the next ten years that is going to change as the tech spreads out to other areas and people find out just how useful it is going to become... Heavy industry has been using 3D composite additive manufacturing for 50 years, resins for 70 years, 3D printing is just an easier cheaper way to do what they have been doing all along... 

 

Once it finishes breaking out of the manufacturing scheme, (it already has) it will explode over many industries.... (creating some, destroying others)

 

It's the nature of technological advancement....

[Egilman]

Well, My first print failure...

 

The rose failed to stay attached to the print plate.... My Mistake... Not enough supports.....

 

Second try starts now.... Should be done in 8 hours....

 

Hopefully, two steps forward for every step backwards... {chuckle}

[Egilman]

17 hours ago, Jasseji said:

You need to Support IT first tho, i think I'll use Lychee

I set up the current print with Lychee, yes it supports the Mono X, but it changes the lift spec from Photon Workshop, drops it from 2mm/sec to 1mm/sec this effectively makes a 4 hour print into an 8 hour print... It is noticeable right away when you start the part printing....

 

Slicers; (and my experiences)

 

Photon Workshop:

Anycubic's slicer is kinda basic, and you have to hunt for info cause it isn't intuitave....

 

ChituBox:

Elegoo's Slicer is kinda techy, much like a full bore 3D program, it has a learning curve, and it bailed out on me a couple of times... Hard to find reliable info on how to effectively use it...

 

Lychee:

Comes to us from Mango 3D, a producer of 3D printer op systems and motherboards... It is based upon the Mango Slicer, a proprietary slicer software that can be modified to suit any Printer Manufacturers specifications.... Lychee is very intuitive.... (although it requires a Mango 3D account and e-mail verification, it is free) It took me just a few minutes to figure it out.....

 

The first two left me asking questions and searching for info on the web... The third I had figured out and up and running in a few minutes....

 

This nube will recommend it, (Lychee) over the other two, but bear in mind, I've only 1.5 successful prints under my belt so take it for what it's worth... If your new to this, give it a try, I don't think you will be disappointed...

 

Another 4 hours till the rose print is finished... I will do pics of the finishing process...

 

EG

[Jasseji]

1 hour ago, Egilman said:

I set up the current print with Lychee, yes it supports the Mono X, but it changes the lift spec from Photon Workshop, drops it from 2mm/sec to 1mm/sec this effectively makes a 4 hour print into an 8 hour print... It is noticeable right away when you start the part printing....

 

Slicers; (and my experiences)

 

Photon Workshop:

Anycubic's slicer is kinda basic, and you have to hunt for info cause it isn't intuitave....

 

ChituBox:

Elegoo's Slicer is kinda techy, much like a full bore 3D program, it has a learning curve, and it bailed out on me a couple of times... Hard to find reliable info on how to effectively use it...

 

Lychee:

Comes to us from Mango 3D, a producer of 3D printer op systems and motherboards... It is based upon the Mango Slicer, a proprietary slicer software that can be modified to suit any Printer Manufacturers specifications.... Lychee is very intuitive.... (although it requires a Mango 3D account and e-mail verification, it is free) It took me just a few minutes to figure it out.....

 

The first two left me asking questions and searching for info on the web... The third I had figured out and up and running in a few minutes....

 

This nube will recommend it, (Lychee) over the other two, but bear in mind, I've only 1.5 successful prints under my belt so take it for what it's worth... If your new to this, give it a try, I don't think you will be disappointed...

 

Another 4 hours till the rose print is finished... I will do pics of the finishing process...

 

EG

I'm far from being a succesful 3D Artists, but i know my way around different 3D Programs (3DMax, Lightwave, Modo, maya, brr Blender) so i can only speak from usabilty Experience from the Software side:

 

Photon Workshop: Basic but seems to have all the needed features

 

Chitubox: Crashing and completely unituitive 

 

PrusaSlicer: Complex and a mess of an interface

 

Lychee: Just works and all is easy to find (The lifting and lowering speed seems to be in the Resin Settings)

 

Update: The Admiral is so enthusiastic about the idea, that we ordered the Photon X, who am i to argue with the Admiral

Edited September 24, 2021 by Jasseji

[Egilman]

Well another failure....

 

This time too many supports for a very delicate print....

 

It broke, both of them....

 

This is what I'm trying to print....

It's paper thin on the petals & sepals... Figuring if I can get this printed successfully I've done something...

 

Getting closer.... 

 

 

[mtaylor]

18 hours ago, Egilman said:

I've read some fora where the manufacturers are already considering the future of filament printing now that high resolution resin printing is the cutting edge and prices are dropping.....

Still a lot of flux in the industry and gambling, the one thing for sure is it is the future and it's coming quickly....

Sounds exactly like what happened with PC's back in the early days and printers.... laser, etc.    Even laser cutters.   Once the tech matures, some stuff will be left unsupported, perhaps no more filaments?).   I guess I'm a bit gun shy on some things though I did jump into a laser cutter fairly early on and did get a bit "burned" by some other tech back in the day.  The one good thing about the laser is that I can and did upgrade parts. 

[henrythestaffy]

How are you positioning the rose on the build plate Egilman? By that I mean at what angle. The trick is to look at the rose and imagine it getting printed layer by layer and then pick the angle that gives it the most contact with the plate and eliminate areas that hang out in space. If you are not already using them try the lightest supports and add more manually. I use a pair of mini side cutters to remove the supports and the tendency is to rush when starting out. Take your time and cut them gently with the cutters.

[Egilman]

15 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Sounds exactly like what happened with PC's back in the early days and printers.... laser, etc.    Even laser cutters.   Once the tech matures, some stuff will be left unsupported, perhaps no more filaments?).   I guess I'm a bit gun shy on some things though I did jump into a laser cutter fairly early on and did get a bit "burned" by some other tech back in the day.  The one good thing about the laser is that I can and did upgrade parts. 

Yeah, first adopters usually have the fun of figuring out all the faults and acquiring all the upgrades to make the tech work like it was advertised... I almost fell into the automatic paper cutters, when they came out...  They were barely able to cut paper at that time... Today, they are powerful enough to cut heavy card and have been used to cut thin sheet styrene.... (for scratching ship superstructures) Still might get one for that oddball thing that needs cutting.... {chuckle}

 

Technology always moves forward, sometimes fast sometimes slowly.. FDM printers will still have a use, but SLA and it's derivatives will take over the market......

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, henrythestaffy said:

How are you positioning the rose on the build plate Egilman? By that I mean at what angle. The trick is to look at the rose and imagine it getting printed layer by layer and then pick the angle that gives it the most contact with the plate and eliminate areas that hang out in space. If you are not already using them try the lightest supports and add more manually. I use a pair of mini side cutters to remove the supports and the tendency is to rush when starting out. Take your time and cut them gently with the cutters.

Hi Henry,

 

Well in my ignorance the first time I just put them on the plate, sliced it and fed it to the printer.... It didn't work and I learned about removing cured resin from the vat as the parts were pulled off the build plate... But I examined my error and went forward...

 

My second time, I used a different slicer, Lychee, which I'm liking a whole lot.... I set them up again in Lychee and angled them over on the side, lifted them off the plate and let it automatically do the supports and rafts...  This printed fine except Lychee set the lift speed down by half so it took twice as long to print.... When it was done what I found was that Lychee put so many supports on the parts that it was next to impossible to get them off without breaking them... There were so many supports, (all thin btw.) that they printed together in a great many places... I learned that I went from one extreme to the other, no support to maximum support... (which isn't needed for this print...

 

My third time, I went into Lychee and let it automatically do the supports and then went in and manually removed many of them including all the ones it so graciously inserted into the inside of the rose... (which could easily be seen outside the bud) and in my innocence I left them vertical,  and at about 10% they started pinging off the build late attaching to the vat... I didn't let that one finish...

 

On my fourth attempt, I set it up in Lychee again and this time slanted them and allowed it to set up the supports and again went in and manually removed all the ones that were going to print together into massive supports and removed the inner ones as well... This is the one I am about to report on.... It successfully printed....

 

It's being a learning experience, I've been told that I should have started with something simpler and easier to work with... (like a figurine, which I have no interest in, or the Eiffel tower like all the you tube video recommend) Nope I wanted something that I was going to have to learn how to do right... I think I found it....

 

It's partly assembled now, getting it ready for paint.... The Admiral like red....  Will see what I can do with it.....

 

Thanks for looking in Henry, but I will say, Lychee makes figuring it out easy peasy, I would recommend it to any innocents just starting out.... (like me)

 

EG

 

 

[Egilman]

Ok I was going to post some things about the finishing process....

 

This is what it looked like fresh off the printer....

 

Inserting it in the IPA bath....

The Wash & Cure Plus takes a maximum of 8.5 liters of IPA and when cleaning, it cleans the plate as well as the parts....

Now, when you set the time it set on 2 minute increments, the reason for this is it runs in one direction , stops after two minutes and then reverses itself.... Also the circulation is powerful enough to create a three inch wide & deep vortex when there is nothing in the vat..... Very powerful wash... Also, it winds up slowly, sounding like a jet engine spooling up, but goes quiet when at full speed....

 

Post wash...

 

You can see where the IPA is evaporating leaving the parts dry.... I'm using the clear resin that Anycubic sent me, as you can see once washed, it goes opaque... (like frosted glass)

 

When dry, you remove them from the build plate....

 

At this point, I clean the printer plate and reinstall it on the printer ready for it's next print..... My understanding from Anycubic is you can leave the liquid resin in the vat no longer than two days, after that you need to dispose of it... Now if I was not going to print anything immediately I would strain the resin back into the bottle, and then run the washer with the printer vat, funnel and strainer in it for 8 minutes this get them clean of all resin and then allow them to air dry....

 

Curing.....

 

This is the setup for final curing of the parts.....

You remove the washer tank and place the reflective plate over the bottom of the chamber, it fits in the recess.... (most just leave it in place when they put the IPA vat in place) You install the turntable and place your parts on it...

You angle the top portion of the LED bar over the parts and place the cover over the whole thing.... Set the timer for 2 to 6 minutes depending on your parts and turn it on...

 

She rotates a 4 rpm... I know it doesn't seem all that long, but they are very powerful UV leds....

 

When done, this is what you come out with.....

 

First thing you notice is that they come out completely frosted with a brownish tinge.... I wouldn't call this clear resin, I assumed that clear meant clear when finished and this isn't it....

And the brownish tinge just doesn't do it for me.... So finishing will have them cleaned up and painted.... Red, just like the Admiral wants them.....

 

Overall, this wasn't a difficult process to figure out, and the machine is dynamite once you learn how to configure the parts you want printed... I'm even more impressed with it than when I ws watching the videos on the net.... If "I" can do this, ANYONE can...... No doubt of that in my mind....

 

EG

[mtaylor]

Question, EG.  Pardon my confusion here.  I assume the IPA can only be used once?   Or can you re-use it?   I know.. never assume but....

[Egilman]

Mark, Thanks for the question,

 

IPA is useable until it becomes loaded with resin... when that happens it becomes cloudy and starts taking longer to clean the parts..... What is recommended is to remove it from the vat, put it in a clear jug and leave it out in the sun to allow the resin in it to cure and settle out..... Then run it through a filter to remove the small particles and it's useable again..... 

 

It's useable for this until it just doesn't clean anymore.... The recommended way to get rid of it when it's done, is to pour it into an open pan, then leave it set in the open sun outside until it evaporates leaving the resin residue behind.... At that point dispose of the solidified inert resin residue in the trash....

 

Disposing of unwanted/unused resin is similar, put it in a disposable clear container and leave it out in the sun to harden, once it is hardened, it is inert and harmless, dispose of it in the trash....

 

That is the EPA's recommendations on how to deal with it....

 

I'll take this opportunity to cover something I've been knocking back and forth in my head if I should or not, the toxicity of 405nm UV Resins....

 

In all jurisdictions UV curable resin is a very, very low grade hazardous waste... Not dangerous at all when properly handled, in fact most household cleaners are more toxic that UV Resin...

 

The worst thing you could do with it is pour it down the drain, it is generally non reactive to human life although there is the chance that prolonged exposure will cause sensitivity to it, this shows up as rashes and itching, the cure is to wash the affected area with soap and water and wear gloves when using it... Prolonged inhalation of the vapors, (If any) could cause mild throat irritation, so use it in a ventilated area... Causes moderate eye irritation, if you happen to splash a bit in your eye, flush it out with clear water immediately, and seek help if the irritation persists. splashing bleach or window cleaner in your eye is worse...

 

I have over a dozen of MSDS's from all the various worldwide jurisdictions that call it a low grade toxic material, lower grade that common household bleach....

 

More telling is the shipping/mailing restrictions on it, ABSOLUTELY NONE! as long as it is in a proper container you can ship it anywhere in any quantity..... If it was truly a dangerous toxic material there would be all kinds of shipping restrictions....

 

Basically if you treat it like you would common antifreeze for your car, your good to go.... It is no more harmful than that....

 

This printing process uses a very specific UV resin, 405nm, in general, UV resins have been sold in hobby stores for decades, it is a well known hobby material to anyone into casting, mold making and jewelry.... (check Hobby Lobby and Michael's for your general UV resin needs)

 

I'm sorry for those that think you need to get suited up in a hazard suit (or characterize it like that) cause it is classified as a toxic material. In todays world the word "Toxic" has become like the word "Plague" raising all kinds of fears of dire consequences if you encounter such a material.....

 

ALL OF IT IS FALSE!

 

The reality is it is less dangerous to you than the oil you put in your car, the ammonia you clean your windows with, the cleaner you put in your dishwasher.... (and a thousand other common everyday products)

 

The acetone thinners you use for your enamel model paints is twice as toxic as UV resin.....

 

Enough of that, I don't want to create a firestorm over environmentalism.... But the truth is the truth....

 

EG

Edited September 26, 2021 by Egilman

[Jasseji]

Sanding MDF is more Toxic, Acrylic Paint is more Toxic

 

On the note of Cleaning the IPA: couldnt you just leave it in the Wash&Cure Station and start the UV Led's for a few minutes or so ? Wouldnt that also help in curing out the particles ? (abviously not in the same container but some glass container so the included vat doesnt get clouded - although that shouldnt matter anyway if the Vat for cleaning is kept clear or not)

 

And for cleaning the Resin tray for the printer - also i saw one guy just starting a "blank" print, so the printer only started turning on the curing screen, after that he just removed the Resin rests from the bottom with the included spatula

 

[Egilman]

Jacek,

I wouldn't use the washing vat, (it's white opaque plastic anyway, won't work) find a wide mouthed clear plastic bottle at about half gallon size... The Admiral likes her V8 juice, a perfectly clear bottle, with a sealed tight fitting cap, holds a half gallon.... That's what I'm going to try... The Wash & Cure would be the perfect device to cure and settle the resin out of the IPA...

Cleaning the vat...

I saw that same video I think, and I have read about it as well... The idea is that once you have drained off the resin you hit the vat with the full screen test pattern for about 10 - 20 seconds, this partially hardens the remaining resin allowing it to be lifted out of the vat without damaging the  plastic bottom.... Not so sure about that one yet, as I have to get this thing paid for before I can buy any accessories, (or replacement parts) so I'll do it the old fashioned way...  As soon as this industrial resin runs out I'll be switching to waterbased biodegradable resin so I won't have to worry about most of this stuff...

 

Another issue I read about is the handles of the hold down bolts for the resin vat, they are plastic and if you get resin on them they melt... For the amount of money you pay for this I would think they could have included metal handled bolts.... Not to worry, Orange Made Products makes replacements, stainless steel screws with aluminum handles for both the resin vat and the build plate clamp... 

 

Well I'm about 50 minutes away from my first batch of parts for my second modeling test coming off the printer..... Not going to reveal what it is until I have all the parts printed... Trust me, it is a real modeling test, making a real model..... I'll post it as a build in the appropriate section when I have them ready to assemble.... Currently researching what is the best glue for assembling them.... I've been told that the best glue is the UV resin itself, still researching this though.... Will be revealing what I find out in the build thread....

 

That's all for now... Continuing the research...

 

EG

[thibaultron]

Thanks, I wondering about how to treat the IPA.

[Jasseji]

I have ordered replacement Films for the bottom VAT immiedately so i can Experiment. 

 

I have a 5litre Glass jar which i could use to cure the IPA, just have to Check if it will fit in the wash and cure station. 

 

 

 

 

[Haze Gray]

Hey Egilman,  I recently picked up the monoX and checked the flatness of the build plate (it was 0.203mm deeper in the center vs the sides) so I got the seller to send me a new one - any issue with the build plate on yours? 

 

 

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Haze Gray said:

Hey Egilman,  I recently picked up the monoX and checked the flatness of the build plate (it was 0.203mm deeper in the center vs the sides) so I got the seller to send me a new one - any issue with the build plate on yours? 

 

 

Hi HG,

 

I checked mine on my surface stone the moment it arrived, flatter than a pancake! (fortunately) Yeah, I've read quite a few stories about non flat build plates.... Most of them are only a few mils out and can be sanded flat with little effort, but some there is nothing that can be done except direct replacement like yours...    203 mils? that is easily visible to the naked eye... I wonder how it got past QC?

I hear that the same issue strikes the Elegoo Saturn from time to time as well...

 

You get one of these check your hardware before you fire it up Ladies & Gents..... The flat build plate is critical to it doing it's thing....

 

Thanks for the question HG, makes me feel like all this research I've done into these was worth it....

 

 

Edited September 26, 2021 by Egilman

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Jasseji said:

I have ordered replacement Films for the bottom VAT immiedately so i can Experiment. 

 

I have a 5litre Glass jar which i could use to cure the IPA, just have to Check if it will fit in the wash and cure station. 

 

 

 

 

If it fits under the LED's and on the plastic rotary plate without breaking when filled sounds like a good deal....

 

I need to wait a bit for the extra replacement films, a second build plate, a second resin vat and the metal clamp screws, the wallet needs a bit of recovery.... {chuckle} I'm just hoping I don't screw it up before that day arrives....

[mtaylor]

Thanks for all the info, EG.   Very enlightening.

[Haze Gray]

Hi Egilman   ,  since I have a new buildpate on the way I've sanded down the one I have on hand - it's right around 0.115mm (the note I got from the "engineer" said anything less than 0.15mm would not impact a print - which might be true so I'll give it a go and see how things turn out.   Part of me thinks it would be nice to have two build plates as I'd like to build a wash tank that I can drop the build plate onto without removing the parts - so when I am removing them there's less of a chance of dripping or unwashed parts attempting to launch into orbit during the separation process. 

 

On another note,  my tiny little Photon S is down, I got a tiny leak in the FEP and and the resin cured between the LCD and the underside of the FEP... the LCD ripped out when I pulled out the vat with almost force required -  so I have a new LCD on the way but I also bought what is essentially a screen protector for both machines in case that happens again - the film covers the entire LCD screen and a bit beyond it....so those should at least mitigate some risk there.