Lady Nelson by Jasseji - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 Scale

[Jasseji]

So, after 1 mostly successful and 2 unsuccessful builds in the past, i decided to get my hands on something smaller and easier.
Now that i have the space and prospect of not moving anywhere for the next few years at lest, i decided to try this little cutter.

 

 

Some bits in the Box were damaged during transport (the laser-cuts of the Stern counter and the thingies which are used to attach the booms to the mast, i will post pics later when i come to it but i think i can fix them with veneer).

So, started on the HZ Slip i have and found out it's too big for the Cutter

 

No big Deal tho, managed to fit all frames and the False deck:

 

Frames Squared:

 

And started sanding them down:

 

 

I think i did damage the front Bulkhead a bit with the file so now i am waiting for my Wife to get home so i can make a quick trip to the Model Shop to pick up better files (i dont really want to take my Kid to the Model Shop - i would be able to leave without more toys for him :P)

Let's hope this build will not suffer the fate of the last 

[Jasseji]

Another batch of pictures.

 

Bow sanded down:

 

Prow, Keel, ruddr Post + Stern Counter Frames Glued (Yes, i did forget the Rabbet and deadwood sanding, tried to work around it after glue cured but decided to go another route later on):

 

Bulwark Fitting (one at a time, i dont have enough fasteners):

 

Waiting for the Glue to dry and will try the other Bulwark

[Jasseji]

I think i overdid the fairing here, first plank doesnt want to follow the bulwark line

 

Need to find some balsa or maybe wood filler when sanding ?

 

 

Edit:

 

Following Statement might be NSFW:

Going to the toilet helps come up with ideas

 

Gluing a strip of 0.5mm Tanganika i had lying around to the edge of the bulkhead seems to have fixed the problem:

 

 

Edited August 4, 2021 by Jasseji

[PRS]

Nice fix and looking good!

[Jasseji]

39 minutes ago, PRS said:

Nice fix and looking good!

so/so but i dont think i can do more at this point 

[BenD]

I had the exact same gap between the bulwark strip and the first plank on my Cutter Sherbourne. I filled it just like you did. 

 

Get more clamps! You can never have too many. I've found even the dollar store ones work ok. Binder clips are also really good for ship building.

[Jasseji]

18 minutes ago, BenD said:

Get more clamps! You can never have too many. I've found even the dollar store ones work ok. Binder clips are also really good for ship building.

 

Local stores dont deliver and getting to any Hobby store with my Kid is a Pain (he wants to buy all the stuff... Cant blame him, lot of cool stuff there)

 

In the meantime, i am getting a bit of "clinkering" in the planks, my bending seems to be inadequate, will leave the 1st 4 planks on each side and try to figure out some better way for the rest 

[drjeckl]

Jacek,

 

I had the same problem, clinkering, with my LN.  I was advised by the more experienced builders here to watch Chuck Passaro's video's on planking, especially the 3rd one on edge bending of the planks.  Once I started doing that, the clinkering was drastically diminished.  I highly recommend that you watch them.  You can get the link from here:

 

Edited August 5, 2021 by drjeckl

[glbarlow]

Have you looked at the other Lady Nelson build logs?  They are a great source to see what others have done and benefit from what they learned.  Are you tapering your planks? No more than the first two van be full width. May I suggest your fairing needs work.  You should be able to smoothly lay a batten (a very thin strip of wood or even paper card) from front to back and make smooth contact with every bulkhead. The front bulkheads seem to have an angle to them verse a curve. 
 

Those gun ports often buckle a bit at that spot, you’ll be able to sand it down quite a bit after the first planking.

 

LN is a good model to learn with, I hope you have fun building it and supporting your son’s hobby store trips. 

[Jasseji]

2 hours ago, drjeckl said:

Jacek,

 

I had the same problem, clinkering, with my LN.  I was advised by the more experienced builders here to watch Chuck Passaro's video's on planking, especially the 3rd one on edge bending of the planks.  Once I started doing that, the clinkering was drastically diminished.  I highly recommend that you watch them.  You can get the link from here:

 

 

Yes, i did watch them, somehow my planks dont want to stay in shape, i think my heating method after soaking is bad, i need to invest in a travel iron, 

 

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Have you looked at the other Lady Nelson build logs?  They are a great source to see what others have done and benefit from what they learned.  Are you tapering your planks? No more than the first two van be full width. May I suggest your fairing needs work.  You should be able to smoothly lay a batten (a very thin strip of wood or even paper card) from front to back and make smooth contact with every bulkhead. The front bulkheads seem to have an angle to them verse a curve. 
 

Those gun ports often buckle a bit at that spot, you’ll be able to sand it down quite a bit after the first planking.

 

LN is a good model to learn with, I hope you have fun building it and supporting your son’s hobby store trips. 

 

I do taper every plank (not perfect width on each tho but i ordered the planking vise which should arrive today, cutting them with a knife doesnt produce best results). Also the battens seemed to lie ok initially.

Oh and i try to limit  my Son's Hobby store trips, he's 5 and full of "Ooooh that's Cool, let's buy it" 

 

The clinkering seemes to have diminished on the starboard side at least:

 

[Jasseji]

The Damaged parts i was talking about initially, i will have to figure out a way to fix them or redo them 

 

I do have some 0.5mm Abachi Veneer so maybe glye them on it and sand down ?

What you think - the Gaff/Boom Jaws will be painted anyway but the sten conter and fascia were supposed to be left unpainted (actually painted from the Inside so i could fit them so the Abachi faces the inside of the ship and then paint it when i paint the inner bulwarks red)

 

Brainstorming ?

 

I SEEM to get the hang of the edge bending after several attempts, finally got some planks which decided to stay in shape

 

 

Edit: Should i taper the planks on both ends ? I saw 2 approaches even for the LN - @PRS didnt, but on the still-motion video someone posted there was taper at the stern as well, i got mixed feelings now

 

Edited August 5, 2021 by Jasseji

[PRS]

You could just glue them together and sand down the glue seam.

[Jasseji]

1 hour ago, PRS said:

You could just glue them together and sand down the glue seam.

might try that actually, we'll see how it works out

[Jasseji]

Did a bit of test-sanding to see how bad it turned out, despite my inconsistent plank fabrication, they did line up in the end 

6 Planks done, 7 to go (the consistency has to improve, now i have the plank cutting vise so...)

 

Stern:

[drjeckl]

The amount of tapering at each end should be derived from the width you need based on the number of planks in and the width of each band.  I had two bands, 7 and 8 x planks.  The 7 x plank band, the top-most, did have tapering at both ends, the 8 x plank band had tapering only at the bow end since I needed the full plank width to fill in that stern area.

 

As to the edge bending, the practice is that one needn't soak the plank before using the iron.  After you set the plank under the clamps, just dip your finger into the water source and rub it over the area you're bending.  That's all you need to do.

 

And I agree with Paul; just glue the broken pieces together and sand down the seam,  And who cares whether they were supposed to left unpainted or not.  I actually planked the stern counter and it looks nice.  Be creative!

[Gregory]

5 hours ago, Jasseji said:

Edit: Should i taper the planks on both ends ?

 Actually, with this hull form, the planking fans out at the stern for several planks..

 

This is a snip from the Cheerful plans drawn by Chuck..

Without wider planking stock this is not possible. 

 

Your plans may show what are called stealers that are used to fill in gaps that

would develop if the uniform planking strips are used..

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jasseji]

48 minutes ago, drjeckl said:

As to the edge bending, the practice is that one needn't soak the plank before using the iron.  After you set the plank under the clamps, just dip your finger into the water source and rub it over the area you're bending.  That's all you need to do.

I am using a hair dryer at the moment, so dipping not soaking ? (i have a metal tool thingie with curves which i use now to get a shape)

 

48 minutes ago, drjeckl said:

And I agree with Paul; just glue the broken pieces together and sand down the seam,  And who cares whether they were supposed to left unpainted or not.  I actually planked the stern counter and it looks nice.  Be creative!

ye, or redo it in Lime, i have a lot of lime strips lying around and was actually thinking of doing the upper bulwark in Lime

 

 

45 minutes ago, Gregory said:

 Actually, with this hull form, the planking fans out at the stern for several planks..

 

This is a snip from the Cheerful plans drawn by Chuck..

Without wider planking stock this is not possible. 

 

Your plans may show what are called stealers that are used to fill in gaps that

would develop if the uniform planking strips are used..

 

 

 

 

 

 

that's what i was thinking, now that i am at the 8th Plank, i will leave the stern untapered, stealers will need to be added anyway

 

Got to the Hobby store and bought more clamps (+Pins with Thick heads - i LOVE Those)

[drjeckl]

I highly recommend getting a travel iron for the edge bending.  The following is popular here:

 

[Jasseji]

7 hours ago, drjeckl said:

I highly recommend getting a travel iron for the edge bending.  The following is popular here:

 

Yup, just ordered.

 

 

[Jasseji]

In the meantime, the Mantua Strip Plank holder is doing it's job, i was able to produce 2 sets of 2 planks each with consistent taper.

 

I am still soaking the wood however, as i find it's easier to cut the planks then.

 

Is there any downsides to using Lime as an outer Planking layer ?

I was thinking to lighten up her colors a bit but cant get Beechwood locally.

 

Or any other tips for some bright nice-looking wood for the outer bulwark (Sapelly?) ?

Edited August 6, 2021 by Jasseji

[Jasseji]

i decided to cut out the Sternpost and keel and draw a berading line.

I thinned it a bit too much at the stern, but this will be covered by planking in the end and i think i can make it square when gluing the post back in

 

 

Edit: Also, my clinkering seems to be gone on the Bow, by the time i finish the first planking, i should get into a good rhytm for the second 

Edited August 6, 2021 by Jasseji

[allanyed]

You have been given a lot of great advice.  Regarding the proper amount of tapering, be as accurate as you can in marking off the run of the planks on the first layer before starting the second.  This will show you exactly how much taper anywhere along each strake of planking. 

Allan  

[Jasseji]

35 minutes ago, allanyed said:

You have been given a lot of great advice.  Regarding the proper amount of tapering, be as accurate as you can in marking off the run of the planks on the first layer before starting the second.  This will show you exactly how much taper anywhere along each strake of planking. 

Allan  

Yes, and i am attemting to follow and adapt along the way

 

 

[Jasseji]

Installing Stealers to the stern, ready for Sanding:

[Thukydides]

On 8/4/2021 at 1:35 PM, BenD said:

I had the exact same gap between the bulwark strip and the first plank on my Cutter Sherbourne. I filled it just like you did. 

 

Get more clamps! You can never have too many. I've found even the dollar store ones work ok. Binder clips are also really good for ship building.

I love dollar store clamps. If the break you can always just get more.

[Jasseji]

20 minutes ago, Thukydides said:

I love dollar store clamps. If the break you can always just get more.

i got a set of 8 for 3EUR so i now have 16, looking for those steel clamps with the rubber tips tho, cant find them anywhere locally.

 

PS: Travel Iron arrived in time for second planking, although i am still waiting for Beechwood strips (or i can use Pear but somewhere i read it is not good for planking - comments ?)

 

Sanding, ding, ding

[glbarlow]

22 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

Pear but somewhere i read it is not good for planking

Not sure where you heard that, Pear is excellent for planking, I’ve not heard of using beach wood.  You can see pear used on any Vanguard build log  as that’s what Chris supplies with his kits. 

[Jasseji]

14 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Not sure where you heard that, Pear is excellent for planking, I’ve not heard of using beach wood.  You can see pear used on any Vanguard build log  as that’s what Chris supplies with his kits. 

Ye i Just noticed in the Sphinx manual and the materials list, Not Sure where i read it (i think it was in the colored planking guide PDF here on MSW). So pear it will be even tho my Strips are 1x3 instead of the 1x4 - maybe they'll be easier to bend even

Edited August 8, 2021 by Jasseji

[Jasseji]

i'm done with the sanding, i dare not to go further (i oversanded the port side at one spot, luckily below the waterline, i hope the second planking will hold it together)

 

 

[Jasseji]

Pear Bulwark 1x3mm strips with one extra Walnut to get to the total od 16mm as per plans:

 

Oh, and fixed the broken Stern counter: