Erycina 1882 by niwotwill - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - scale 1/64 - Plymouth Fishing Trawler

[niwotwill]

Been following Vanguard Models by Chris Watton for some time and when I saw this kit I jumped. Got the box a couple day ago and had planned to put it on the shelf until other project were finished and when it was time to wait additional supplies I figured I'd start. What the heck 😬 Opened the box and did the usual inventory of parts along with a photo. 

 

Kit contents

 

I couldn't wait and put the working stand together. When Chris said it should not require glue, he was spot on. The parts fitting was very snug with not wiggle. The laser cutting of the 3mm MDF was very fine and a #11 blade did not fit between the edges. Looking at the parts I am very impressed with apparent quality of the material. THE BEST KIT I HAVE SEEN. Can't wait until tomorrow.

 

Best Regards

Will

[BobG]

This is a wonderful looking model, Will. I love these fishing vessels and I'll be following along on your build with great interest. Good luck!

[AJohnson]

4 hours ago, BobG said:

This is a wonderful looking model, Will. I love these fishing vessels and I'll be following along on your build with great interest. Good luck!

Same here, I'm currently just starting her little sister "Nisha" 

[Craigie65]

I have this kit set aside for Christmas. So if you don’t mind I’ll pull up a chair and follow your build.

[niwotwill]

Welcome everybody plenty of room to join the party. Lets get started. 

 

 

First I carefully cut the 16 bulkhead frames from the 3mm MDH using a #11 blade. When not being sure if the laser char should be removed I removed the keel from the 2mm MDF and dry fit each bulkhead. The fit is so tight, not too tight and not a sliding fit, so I'm leaving the laser char. I did remove the little attaching tabs from each piece.

 

16 bulkhead frames on such a small ship will make planking easier keeping a clean smooth sweep.

 

I used my Proxxon rotary too to fair bulkheads 1, 2, 3, 4, 15 & 16 to the laser scored line. It was a little nerve wracking on the first and last frames as the line was so far from the edge. I put the frame back into the keel to check and went ahead fairing to the line. Proxxon has a great clam shell clamp to put in a vise. With it secured it was easy to hold the frames along the drum and up to the line.

 

All the fairing done and the frames back on the keel as the manual suggested. So I'm now back working in the correct order

 

Doesn't seem like a lot of work but after spending so much time checking, checking, and rechecking I feel better that it is correct. On previous kits I learned that small mistakes always seem to come back to haunt the design later. So my neurotic checking continues.

 

More tomorrow now its time to do some Christmas shopping.

 

Many Regards

Will

 

[niwotwill]

Finished Christmas shopping so now back to Erycina. 

 

Started the fairing the forward support pieces and kept putting them on the keel section wondering how is this going to work?  Being basically noisy I removed the locating tabs from the 3mm sheet and placed the pieces in place. The more I work with Chris's kit the more impressed I become. Holding the filler pieces to the keel all 3 tabs slipped into place. Amazing.

 

 

I had done a little fairing on the forward frames prior to attaching the fillers. But still wondering how to fair fullers. So now the stern fillers using the same method.

 

 

These fillers flow into a nice bearding line for a rabbit. And as stated the lower deck fell into place with a little frame jiggling. Each time laser cut parts fall into place amazes me. 

 

Put the + shaped parts in place and glued into position. It is so foreign to me that the frames are just left in a dry fit position. I've always used squares, levels and glue to insure the frames are square to the frame and level athwartship. Now putting in the longitudinal pieces squaring the frames along with the lower deck the boat is becoming rigid.

 

Had a small problem with the longitudinal pieces aligning with the + pieces. A NOTE TO OTHERS MAKE SURE THE + PIECES ARE FLUSH WITH THEIR ADJOINING FRAMES OR THE LONGITUDINAL PIECES WONT SLIDE INTO PLACE. I fixed my problem with a slight amount of sanding and then  the parts sled together. Snapped the after pieces with no issues.The last thing was to snap the false deck into place. Once again the parts alignment is amazing. I slide the deck into the starboard side making sure it was fully seated and the with a slight amount of bowing slipped the port side into the frame notches. Diluted some white glue and painted all the joints. After setting awhile the structure is very secure with no bending or flexing.

 

Thats enough for today must let all the glue set and begin tomorrow.

 

Many Regards

Will

 

 

 

 

[Craigie65]

Looking good, Will.

Thanks for the heads up on making sure cross pieces are flush - hopefully I will remember that.

[niwotwill]

Spent the morning fairing the bulkheads getting ready to plank. Nice to have the marks so the gross sanding was completed prior to bulkhead mounting to false keel. 

 

 

One note to anyone wishing to build Erycina THE TRANSOM BULWARKS ARE VERY FRAGILE ESPECIALLY THE OUTSIDE. The outside bulwarks were doubled and a 3mm filler added and all this must be faired for planking to flow. When complete the outside bulwarks are almost half their size at the tips. A trick I use to make the bulwarks less prone to breakage is using upholstery foam cut to fit in-between the bulwarks.

 

 

Its not pretty but does an amazing job of protecting the protruding bulwarks. I buy the foam from a fabric shop near me in 2" thick pieces. When I dry fit the pear wood keel pieces they fit perfectly and I went ahead to glue the bottom piece.

 

 

I use elastic bands to hold the keel snug while the glue sets and you can see how the foam supports the bulwarks especially the transom bulwarks.

 

Many Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Wanna take time to thank everybody for the likes, looks and comments I'm having fun building this little trawler.

 

Having worked on my first Vanguard model I have become spoiled by how the laser cut parts fits, but now it time to do a little free flying. The keel fit onto the false keel perfectly and the cut water stem fit perfectly as well after the little sanding as described. The stern post fit the same with not modifications required.

 

Again elastic bands held everything in place while the glue sets. A couple of clips holding the pieces square and they really  weren't necessary since the frames had extensions below the false keel that kept the keel in alignment.

 

All glued up and ready for the bulwarks. The pear wood really shows its color and seems a real shame to paint. Oh well!

 

No locating tabs for bulwark mounting just the same old method of fit and glue. One thing that is very important about this part of the build is to read and understand the instructions. Two things jumped out to me that I'll speak to when there. The forward section fits into the slot on the cut water and just a little sanding on the lower section that sits below the slot. It becomes obvious when you hold the part up to place. This is where the two cautions come into play. The first is align the part on the lower deck etched into the bulwark. This is very important as you get the transom extensions you can see that reference for the little deck to be built. The second one struck me with a wham boy did I almost goof up. DO NOT GLUE THE BULWARK ABOVE THE DECK. The extensions above the deck will be cut off and stanchions will be added in the locations etched on the bulwark.  I alway use medium viscosity CA glue when I'm planking and the bulwarks seemed like planking so I used CA. So what I did was set the bulwark in place and use clips to ensure it stays in place and turn the boat upside down and apply the CA at the joint of the deck, frame and bulwark.

 

 

 

 

The last thing today was the counter. I put the counter in a bowl of water and boiled it in the microwave until is sank. Then it was just a process to set it in place and clamp for 12 hours. One thing that I should mentions is the counter extensions have a small notch as the turn up to the transom. When you set the counter against this notch on mine the forward edge of the counter rested the last frame by about 1/32"

 

Glue the inner counter on tomorrow.

Many Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

atest update:

Counter glued in place. Next was to start the first layer of planking. I've learned that kit strips have been sawed to thickness leaving a varying thickness so I run them through the thickness sander. While this may seem unnecessary I believe it gives a more even surface after planking to finish sanding. That done I followed the instructions by running the first three strakes without any taper. They almost lay flat of the frames but could be glued and held. The balance of the strakes I tapered as suggested. On my model this made quite a wave midships but I did have to make a drop plank at the keel.

 

 

The final result is useable with some putty and sanding but I not satisfied with the result. I very glad there will be a second layer that I will have to do a much better job.

 

 

You can see the opens between planks (the picture looks worse that it is). On the Port side will be done using Chuck Passaro's method of lining off each frame and transferring the data to strips to be shaped. So measuring the the frames to find the one with the largest distance between the bulwark and keel and dividing by 5mm resulted in 12 strakes. Nice even number to work with. Cut tick strips from card stock the length of each frame. Knowing the each strake is 5mm in the middle I used a radiating fan to place the tic strip so it touched 12 points and marked the locations on the tic strip. That divided the strip into 12 equal 5mm sections. The same was done with each tic strip. I then transferred to tic strip marks to the frames.

 

 

You can see the tic strips in background.

Next you mark the frame locations on a plank and then mark the width using the appropriate tic strip. To shape the strip a line was drawn using the tic marks. I made a simple jig to hold the plank while shaping to drawn line. The jig is a piece of scrap wood run through the table saw and a depth that allowed the shaping of the strip.

 

 

it was easy to cut the strip using my violin plane.

 

The problem of bending a strip around the compound curve of a model is where one side of the strip doesn't sit on the frame so we taper the planks to reduce this problem. Another method is to bend the planks to a curve so it sits against the flush against the frame,

 

A simple jig for bending the plank at predetermined location.

 

Heating the plank keeps it in the shape. I use a small travel iron to heat the plank while retained by the clamps.

 

Now you just place the plank in position and glue. I use CA glue because I can hold the plank in position with slight finger pressure.

 

Holding the plank up while adding the CA. Again you can see the tic marks on the frames.

 

Two planks done 10 to go

 

Many Regards

Will

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Craigie65]

Looking good will. Nice clear explanations.

[niwotwill]

I want to take time to thank everyone for the likes and comments really helps

 

Now a short update. Not much time in the shop with the Holiday and family but I did squeak out a few hours and got 7 strakes on Erycina. Maybe a few more tomorrow.

 

 

The lines on the strakes are marking the frames locations where to measure the strip width.

 

Many Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Had wonderful holiday with the family and friends with beautiful weather here in Arizona. Now back to modeling Erycina. First layer of planking completed and filler added. Not much to show except the filler.

Completed planking port side

 

Filler added. Just an even coat covering all the planking.

 

Sanded smooth with lines checked with a strip of planking making sure the fairing is good.

 

Bow view

 

 

Stern view

 

You can see the filler drying to sand tomorrow and then on the the next steps

 

Many Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Back to work today spent quite a bit of time with not much to show for the work. Completed the finish sanding of the planking.

 

 

These pictures are after a coat of sanding sealer was applied. I use sanding sealer as a primer for glueing the outside layer of planks. The sanding sealer also is absorbed into the wood filler making it more secure by filling any cracks. When completed the transom was added after preparing the bulwarks. I found that some light sanding was required to fair the bulwarks to give the transom a glueing surface. With the transom on some sanding was required to fair the lower edge of the transom with the inner counter. Once faired the outer counter was able to rest against the inner counter and transom. 

 

outside counter in place and holding until glue sets

 

Now I must wait until the glue sets before continuing. Patience is hard for me but maybe I can practice and get a virtue what ever that is. More to come.

Many Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Thanks for the all the comments and looks with nice flags.

 

Just note of caution to all building or going to build Erycina. The outer counter layer goes on as instructions state, but after I undid all the clamps the counter had split. Not noticeable but still split. Getting it wet may have prevented this or maybe one more clamp right next to the stern post hole.

 

Finished putting the stem, keel and stern post sides on again with multiple clamps. Looking carefully at the joints I noticed the seams and decided to add filler and sand smooth since they are to be painted. Next was the outer layer of bulwarks. These went on with not issues. Again their fitting is a statement to Chris's kit quality.

 

 

Let everything dry and set and then on to pear planking. More to come

 

Again thanks to everyone

Best Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

More work on the bulwark outer layer especially the starboard. The holes don't align between the inner and outer layers. This is not a huge issue as some file work on the inner layer brings the into alignment.

This is the starboard side and in not really a problem since you have to file the hole for the bowsprit. The bowsprit hole will be tapered to the angle of the bowsprit. Not sure where the filler sanding dust came from but you can see the white dust.

 

Port side

 

This hole was filed into alignment using a #2 cut round swiss file. You can see the start if planking at the stem. Finished 12 strakes with 4 to go.

 

Just a little light sanding making sure the planking will look okay. More tomorrow and then the starboard sided.

 

Many Regards and Happy New Year 

 

 

 

[BobG]

Very nice work and an excellent build log also! All the best in the New Year!

[niwotwill]

Well we're in the new year and have made some progress not that the holidays are over and everybody settled. Thanks Bob always appreciate your comments. I'm from Sacramento born at "Sutter Hospital".

 

Finished the second layer of planking. The pear in the kit was of varying thickness so out came the thickness sander. All planks down to same thickness and a smoother surface than the saw ripping. I used Chuck Passaros method of lining off the hull and making tick strips to mark the planks. All worked out very well except that I did have more creep than I thought I would so the last plank was hand shaped. With the planking finished I moved on to removing the bulkheads about the false deck. That was not a difficult as expected. With pliers they just snapped off leaving slight pieces to hand finish. Here's what is really amazing the thin deck fit without any adjustments. I can't say it enough how great this kit is. Its truly a statement of excellence to Chris.

I decided to paint both sides of the bulwarks so I taped out the outside and inside for spraying. Time to break out my homemade custom spray booth (a large packing box with the lids cut off and seams taped) and start painting.

 

Deck taped

 

Erycina in booth

 

Erycina after first coat of green paint.

 

Look at the stern for a view of coverage

 

Just a tip to modelers I started using "Mission Models" paint and must say it covers well and sprays good. They have a large color pallet from which to choose. On a lark I tried their airbrush ready paint in a bottle. Shake the bottle then add to gun reservoir sprayed with 35psi at 6" it produced a even wet surface. I must be getting lazy as the premixed was easy to use with great results.

 

More painting tomorrow

Best Regards

Will

 

 

 

 

[BobG]

1 hour ago, niwotwill said:

I'm from Sacramento born at "Sutter Hospital".

 

I've been living in the Land Park neighborhood since 1978. Sacramento has grown up a lot since then.

 

Nice job! I really like the shade of green you're using. I love reaching the point where you can begin painting the model. 

[niwotwill]

Now it was time to unwrap Ercyina and look at the paint job. I love Tamiya masking tape. Not a drop of bleed and the edges are sharp and crisp. 

 

 

The transom bulwarks

 

Time to glue the deck to the false deck with a bunch of clamps. It was hard to put the clamps on the fresh paint but no problems.

 

It was a big decision to paint the inside of the bulwarks, but I really like the results especially when I started adding timberheads.

 

Getting tired of timberheads  I went on to something less stressful. Made the fish hatches. I was very difficult to align the bottom with top coamings so after the glue set the disk sander made everything flush. Knowing boats did not have square sharp edges and corners I sanded radii and softened edges of the coamings. I'm going to use wipe on poly on all bare wood parts (already did the deck). WOP was applied to the hatches.

 

 

WOP on pear wood is a nice dark shade so on to more timberheads tomorrow.

 

Best Regards

Will

 

[BobG]

Beautiful work, Will!

[AJohnson]

Very nice looking boat there, love the contrast between the deck and inner bulwarks, gives me something to think on with my “Nisha” 👍

[niwotwill]

Thank you Bob and Andrew for the kind words and everyone else for the likes.

 

Had a day full of lots of little details. Surprising how the little details bring the model to life, such as rounding the ends of the fife rails. 

 

 

softening the edges of the cap rails

 

A day spent with the details getting ready to turn her over and paint the red oxide below the waterline. Doing this reminded me I have to add the rub rail at the bottom of the bulwarks. Its drying as I painted it black and will look tomorrow seeing if its good or needs another coat.

 

 

Looking aft starboard

 

looking aft port

 

looking forward

 

Hopefully tomorrow will be day of change to move beyond the deck structures.

Regards

Will

 

 

[niwotwill]

Goodmorning All

 

Spent the evening wondering how I'd spent so much time with so little accomplished. Looking at the pictures it hit me sanding char of 50 timberheads and the .8mm thick cap rails without loosing or breaking anything was a time consuming tedious task. Reading Edgar Marsh's "Fishing Trawlers" I saw details missing from then kit.  I originally thought I'd do some kit bashing on the Erycina but with the beauty of the kit I decided to leave it as Chris intended. 

 

Just wanted to explain why so much time yielded what appears so little progress, but beauty is in the details while leaving the kit as designed.

 

Best Regards

Will

[AJohnson]

Hi Will, lovely looking build! 👍 

 

Have you stained the deck?  It looks darker in the last few pictures and looks darker than the 'Nisha' deck I have, just asking as I like the look of it a bit darker. 😀

[niwotwill]

Hello Andrew

 

Thanks for the nice comments. Have you started the Nisha? and a log? The kit deck is maple and I've wiped two coats of Wipe on Poly. Yes it does seem darker just the lighting I think. Went outside and took a picture in sunlight but looking at it, it does appear to have darkened.

 

 

How do like my stand "the rubbish container ready for pickup"?

 

Best Regards

Will

[AJohnson]

21 hours ago, niwotwill said:

Hello Andrew

 

Thanks for the nice comments. Have you started the Nisha? and a log? The kit deck is maple and I've wiped two coats of Wipe on Poly. Yes it does seem darker just the lighting I think. Went outside and took a picture in sunlight but looking at it, it does appear to have darkened.

 

 

How do like my stand "the rubbish container ready for pickup"?

 

Best Regards

Will

Hi Will, it does look different in daylight, you certainly have got me thinking about the colour scheme for these trawler’s. I think most of them would have been quite plain looking as they were hard worked and possibly a bit scruffy. From consulting Edgar March’s “Sailing Trawlers” I think my ‘Nisha’ might be finished in plain black sides with no white ‘booting topping’ at the waterline.

 I do have a build log, link on my signature, or look under the ‘1900 to now’ build log category.

kind regards,

Andrew 

[niwotwill]

Andrew you are absolutely correct about the nature of these boats. In March's book there is a picture of Erycina being painted while on the sand so I'm presenting her as new. Couple of seasons and she would be very scrappy.

 

Best retards

Will

[niwotwill]

Thanks for the nice comments and likes it means a lot.

 

Two day of sanding, taping and priming resulting in the below photo. Not much to tell except adding the waterline. It took two tries to get the stern area with a smooth line ending where the books shows. The stem was not clearly defined so I placed the pencil at the known location at the stern post. Drawing the line forward to the stem looks to be about where the photos and drawing show. The drawings are not to scale so measuring them was out. I made ratio between the drawing and the 1:64 scale and measured the distance to the waterline from a know location so I could ratio it to measure on the stem. The method of starting at the stern post and working forward had the waterline less than a 1/32" from the measured. Good to go. 

Using Tamiya tape is difficult as doesn't flex. With the waterline being fairly dark you can see though the tape so rather than small lengths I used a 18mm piece and cut the tape with a sharp #11. Painted the primer. I use automotive grey primer as it flows very flat and dries to touch in a few minutes.

 

Primer brings out the worst of the planking and basic sanding. Going to be a lot of putty and more sanding and then more primer. Let everything set added the putty on the seams and sanded almost down to bare wood.

 

 

Looking much better. I'll wait until the primer cures overnight to see if more putty and sanding is required.

 

Best regards

Will

 

[Craigie65]

Good paint job. I feel your pain when the first coat goes on and you see all the blemishes in their glory.  Same thing happened to me on my Granado.