Erycina 1882 by niwotwill - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - scale 1/64 - Plymouth Fishing Trawler

[BobG]

22 hours ago, niwotwill said:

Using Tamiya tape is difficult as doesn't flex.

 

Tamiya makes a tape for curves. I've used it and it worked well for me. You can bend it around some very tight curves and it seals well.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Masking-Tape-Curves-Tamiya-Japan/dp/B075HJBQY9/ref=sr_1_2?crid=VNTF4B55OHPF&keywords=tamiya+tape+for+curves&qid=1641765819&sprefix=kamiya+tape+for+%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-2

[chris watton]

I have flexible masking tape in stock, after trying it out on Nisha and Erycina pre-prototypes, and bought a load more once I realised how perfect it is for jobs like these.

 

I always thought it was a little gimmicky, but no, it was perfect for the job of difficult waterlines. 

[niwotwill]

Thanks Bob G and Chris for the tape help. I have the Tamiya flexible tape but its a vinyl and I'm a little skeptical about it holding lines. I have some 2mm Tamiya tape that I'll use for the waterline boot. After checking and checking the tape and many deep breaths it was time to paint. Sprayed the first coat with great results I'm very happy with the first coat.

 

 

 

First coat with great coverage. With other reds I've had coverage problems when going over white as red does go on almost translucent. Maybe its the brown in the red but great coverage. Second coat in the booth just starting to setup.

 

 

 

This afternoon was another nailbitier and after many deep breaths I took the tape off. When it came off I was in a OMG moment. It looks as I hoped it would..

 

 

 

While painting process continued with it stops and starts I made up the companionway, the ladder, started the main block, and steam winch base. The companionway leaves me with a unsatisfied feeling. With the 1mm material that would make the siding 2-1/2" thick the same as the side planking. With the plans not being in scale, I might use my ratio and blow up to scale making another companionway. I'll see what I can find in March's book.

Anyway here's what I made

 

 

 

I'm going to jump ahead and make all the deck furniture that needs to be painted green so I can clean the gun and put the booth back on the shelf for another project.

 

Best Regards

Will

 

[Nunnehi (Don)]

Will, that looks really nice, I’m very much enjoying your log! I’ve used the Tamiya flexible tape on both wood and plastic with good results and recommend that you give it a try - I think you’ll like it. 
 

Don

[BobG]

Looks great, Will!

[AJohnson]

Looking great Will, what paints are you using for the anti fouling and green?  Like you I like to get all the painting done in one go, or in quick succession, so I can keep on top of the airbrush cleaning.  I got some tape from Chris, so I'll be using it on my 'Nisha' hopefully in the not too distant future.

[niwotwill]

 

 

Thanks for the nice comments Bob, Don, Andrew always nice to read

 

Andrew

I use Mission Models paint and as said above I tested for coverage and lifting with great coverage and not being able to lift with tape. I was spraying at 35psi but have found 25psi give a more even pattern and easier to use as it uses less paint. I used the thinned ready to use paint. 

 

Here's a picture of the paint used the white is for the boot line

 

 

 

These work like a rattle can as the have a ball in them that rattles when shaken as directed.

 

Hope this helps

Best Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Also a note to all airbrush gunners. I found the awesome website for airbrush spray equipment and paint. 

 

spraygunner.com

 

great select, good prices, and fast delivery

 

Best Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Time to put the decals on so starting with the stern the has the "Erycina Portsmouth" inside the framing. The framing should have been painted black so not I'll hand paint black. Not to future modelers PAINT THE TRANSOM FRAME BEFORE MOUNTING

 

 

Name and registrations number along with water depth decals

 

 

Getting the deck populated with eyes and lids. Not much to say except the eyebolts are too long to sit with the eye flush to the deck. Decision time 1} trim the shank 2} drill hole in false deck. Not liking either I used a straight pin to punch a hole the slots. The drilling option was discarded because the deck has rectangular holes to receive the eyebolt shank and drilling might change the shape or scar the deck. While holding the model and pushing the pins I broke the rudder from it position. It is held with 3 small tabs glued into the stern post. I going to leave it off until the time for the tiller and in the meantime hopefully find another way to mount the rudder.

 

 

Notice the poor rudder

 

 

That was yesterday finishing the main chock and companionway today was spent gathering up the parts needing paint and making the steam winch. Building the winch was a challenge with eight whelps to mount between two discs but when you loose one of the whelps the fun starts.

Taking a piece brass from the photo etch  and making another whelp took five hours. To make the whelp I needed a pattern I tried to trace a whelp on paper glue the tracing to the brass and file a whelp. The paper pattern became worn and not a true shape. Finally I glued a whelp to the brass and very carefully filed the shape using #2 swiss files. It did come together and the new whelp fit as the others. Oh well! the shop floor needed cleaning anyway so looking for the lost whelp gave me a reason.

 

 

Next was the steam box (don't know what else to call it) that sits on top of the winch. It fun to build something without having to make a part.

 

 

all the parts gathered up for tomorrows paint

 

 

Best Regards

Will

 

 

 

 

 

[AJohnson]

Nice save on the Steam winch Will 👍 it was like building a mini kit on its own, though for once I didn't lose or break anything on mine!

How did the decals go on Will?  I have been thinking about them and how they might sit on wood grain without the decal backing "silvering" on the uneven surface, been thinking of using rub-on lettering?

Did your rudder come off, mine not attached yet whilst I have sanding and filling still to do.

Edited January 13, 2022 by AJohnson

[niwotwill]

Finished the deck furniture today and started with the deadeyes. Not much to this work but to post ahead with sanding and shaping each part. 

First thing was the steam winch painted the winch with green paint and painted the un-named top red and when dry assembled and fixed to deck. The exhaust pipe was made from brass tubing I had. I filed a vee in the tube almost through and bend it to shape the angled part. Silver soldered the tube then filed smooth ready for paint. Fixed the tubes to the deck when paint dried. Very nice of Chris having the lower deck for the tubes sit. The tow post or dummy post depends who you read was painted green and fixed to the deck. An interesting thing about the tow post is that it also was used as the pivot point for a pump fulcrum. I wonder what Chris was thinking when he left the two sides on the top for attaching the fulcrum. I was tempted to make a pump but as I said I'm leaving the kit as designed.

 

 

Oh whoops! I just looked at this picture and noticed the semi-circular pieces on the red box did not get painted black. Silly me.

 

Next was to make the winch and bowsprit support. Clean the char paint the parts and put them together. When done fix to deck in the slots. Very hard to get this wrong. Splash rails with hawse grooves were next. Same process clean and fix no paint. Then the pulley. Made out of brass instead of the wood and I'll leave it brass colored. The only brass showing on the boat. The pulley was used as part of the trawling rig and looking at the drawings its not clear what this accomplished. Lastly the cavil between the stem and bowsprit support.

 

 

another whoops should be an eyebolt on the top of the stem. Easy fix.

 

All furniture

 

 

Best Regards

Will

 

 

[Nunnehi (Don)]

What a beautiful little ship! Well done, Will!

 

Don

[niwotwill]

Thanks Don she's becoming a beautiful ship you can see why some became yachts.

 

Finished up fixing the whoops and then started on the working part of a sailing ship. Removed the shroud ironwork from PE sheet and carefully filed the holding tabs until a smooth surface. I use 

 

Parts are cleaned with 91% alcohol before being immersing in solution. After cleaning all handling is done with tweezers. I've found that if you leave the parts in the solution until they turn to black and remove them to dry on a paper towel gives me the best results. Once dry parts are dry they're washed with water and left to dry. The deadeyes were put into the ironwork as described in the instructions. To get the angle correct to the shrouds a thread was strung from a dowel the height of where the shrouds attach. A mark was made using the ironwork with a straight pin and then a pilot hole was drill for the nail.

 

 

The main mast required a 2mm relief at the top so out came the lathe. Simple matter of turning the 6mm dowel down to 4mm diameter at the required length.

 

 

The 4mm portion required 3 holes for the metal work and an eyebolt. Using my ratio to find their positions and drill the holes.

 

 

All parts made they were dry fit on the boat.

 

 

Next to blacken parts, sand, stain, and finish parts and on the yard and gaff.

 

Best Regards

Will

 

 

 

[niwotwill]

Been awhile doing less important, IMO, but they needed to be done so i'm back. There's not much to say about removing PE parts from the sheet so I'll go on to cleaning. Oh yes! One thing I found out was if you use the side cutters with the flush surface in the wrong direction it allows the cut to be controlled so there's less to trim. With the parts trimmed they were cleaned by soaking in acetone. Drying one a clean paper towel doesn't take long and then into a 91% alcohol bath again to dry on the paper towel. When dry put them into a glass with Brass Black. Watching them until the turn the black color you want. Again too a paper towel to dry. After dry washed in warm water and wiped to remove the excess material. 

 

Just mast showing some of the brass

 

It seems obvious but remember to slide the rings on before the upper hardware.

Spent the afternoon strooping blocks to the mast. With help of my third hand it was done holding the block while being seized. The mast held in place with the fourth hand. Taking the line from the block through the eye and back the to block.With a block seizing line wrap both lines to simulate actual seizing. A method I found that works is to tie an overhand knot next to the block on one of the lines and then take one seizing line away from the block and wrap 3 to 6 time away from the block. When complete tie and overhand knot and slide the wrapping up to the block. A very tiny drop of thin CA to hold in place.

 

Hardest one was the lowest with becket. To make the becket a loop was seized around a pin and tied with an overhand knot directly adjacent to the pin. A drop of thin CA was applies opposite of the knot. When the loop dries bring it up to the block and seize as I had the others. They last thing was the  block hanging from the mast. First seize the block and then one up around the mast and seize together with seizing lines from the block. Not sure if this makes sense but that's how I did it. Maybe a photo will help.

 

All done for today and a couple of photos

 

 

In the sun

 

Best Regards and thanks to all the looks and kind remarks

Will

 

[AJohnson]

Hi Will,

 

Good work there 👍 and I'm glad you found time to get back to your build, as I am hanging on your 'coat-tails' watching how you do the masts and rigging, as I am not too far behind you now. Though like you I might get slowed up for other reasons this next few weeks, as the Admiral has decided "we"( i.e. me) need to decorate my daughter's bedroom! 🙄

 

(Note to self put the mast hoops on before completing the mast build)  I like your "helping/third" hand, might need to invest in one of those.

 

Are you putting sails on your model?  I am hoping to, toying with the idea of trying modelspan/silkspan ones as there are some great builds on MSW with those and thinking if I can't put sails on a little trawler, I might never put sails on a model... (Fall back position is of course the ones supplied by Chris 😆!)

[niwotwill]

Andrew and all thanks for the looks, likes and comments.

 

Andrew 

I made the decision is keep the model as designed and therefore am using Chris's sails. Small comment on the sails. The furnished (bought) sails are a great quality and the material is the best I've seen. They are tightly woven, thin in depth, very translucent and have a correct feel to them when compared to the models feel. They've laid flat for several weeks and the shipping folds are coming out. I'll post a picture today so you can see what I've described.

 

Best Regards

Will

Andrew PM me about silkspan

[niwotwill]

I've reached the point of dread, I've got to dye the sails. They have been laying flat since the beginning of the model and most of the fold creases have flattened. The next sail post will be them drying but here are some pictures showing the translucency.

 

 

Best Regards

Will

[James H]

You can just run a steam iron over the sails and the creases disappear instantly. 

 

When applying dye, you'll need to scrunch them up anyway to remove any remaining dye and water before letting them dry. That's when I use the steam iron, with the sails protected between a couple of pieces of paper towel.

[niwotwill]

Thanks james. I'll definitely iron after sail dying. Thanks to everyone for the looks and nice comments.

 

I've been noodling about the sail colors and have decided a more brown red color for my Erycina. I'm kind of partial to the brownish color as when I bought a dirt colored T-Shirt in Hawaii year Rit Dye in for all fabrics in orange and tan. I kept saying I want brownish red how's that going to happen with bright orange and tan? So I got one of her looks and said ok. We cut up an old pillow case just a little heaver weave for samples. She then gave me a starting formula and said off you go. Got my hot plate and old SS pan and set up on my work area.

 

Here are all the supplies

 

supplies gathered so off I go to mix my first patch. 16 oz of water, 1 tsp of plain salt, a dab (Admirals measurement) of dish soap, 200 degrees fahrenheit and 15 minutes.

 

 

I made four batches as the receipt shows

 

 

They are not as red as the picture shows much more brown I even set one on Erycina to get a feel of the color.

 

I'm going to use the 3rd row from the left center swatch. Tomorrow I'll start dying sails and hoping they will look as I hope.

 

Best Regards

Will

[AJohnson]

Hi Will, looking forward to seeing the sails progress.  Are you going for the same brown/red for all the sails, or are you going to mix them up a bit.  Many of the old (obviously black and white) photographs of the the old trawlers hint at different shades for individual sails; clearly an effect of different ages and wear/repairs.  Or you going for a uniform shade across all?

[niwotwill]

Andrew I going to use the 3rd row and mix the times to get as you said varying shades.

Best Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Sails dyed with no oops. So glad its over. The dye used also correctly colored the sewing threads. Now on to shaping and attaching to the mast rings. No Problems there. 😁 Riiiiight

 

sails drying after rinsing in cold water

 

I used the time in the dye solution to create the different shades the darkest being the least used and lightest be used the most. Below is the dye used.

 

 

 

Best Regards

Will

Edited February 3, 2022 by James H
Just rotated picture in a paint program.

[AJohnson]

They look to have come out very nicely Will, should really set off the hull and deck fittings well with the contrasting green highlights. 👍

These trawlers are very good looking models, looking forward to seeing the “Ranger” and “Saucy Jack” (think that’s their names), join vanguard’s range, I think are due out later this year?

[niwotwill]

I'm very happy with them Andrew and thanks for the multi-colored suggestion. Really happy with the dye that colored the stitching. Next week is my birthday and the Admiral got a package from England that's about the size and shape of a model from Vanguard. She put it away somewhere so I'll have to wait.

 

Best Regards

Will

[BobG]

2 hours ago, niwotwill said:

Next week is my birthday and the Admiral got a package from England that's about the size and shape of a model from Vanguard. She put it away somewhere so I'll have to wait.

 

I'd probably be doing a little bit of snooping around the house... 😇

[niwotwill]

Bob I looked in the usual places with no luck.

 

Regards

Will

[AJohnson]

That's something to look forward to! 🎁 😁 Mine is in a couple of weeks time, but I need some workshop tools, rather than more models to build!

Edited February 3, 2022 by AJohnson

[niwotwill]

Thanks James for the photo rotating. Tell me about how you did the rotation in paint?

 

Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Just a quick photo showing the sails true colors.

 

 

Regards

Will

[niwotwill]

Well I'm back in the shop at least for an hour. Better now so I completed the main sail to gaff and got the main sail to mast finished. After an hour got really tired so tomorrow on to the mizzen sail to gaff and mast. Not much to describe so just pictures.

Mizzen gaff attached.

Attaching the main sail.

Couple views main sail on boat.

Oh yeh! I forgot to mention that the mast and mizzen have mast coats in the laser cut wood. The book doesn't talk about them so I'm going to use them. Rounded the outside edge with a slight radius and stained them using a dark walnut stain. Since they should have some kind of stuffing saturated in grease and basically black I think the dark walnut will work. I'm afraid to glue the main mast in until the mizzen is complete with both ready for shrouds.

 

Regards

Will