HMS Sphinx 1775 by paul carruthers - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[hollowneck]

On 2/2/2022 at 7:46 AM, DavidG said:

Paul, your model looks excellent. Is it just me, or the letter "N" on the transom is upside down?

You caught the upside down "N" cock-up - Good! Glad you fixed the "X" too...🤣...

Very nice work. This is an advanced kit build and you're doing a great job for only your second wooden model ship.

 

Edited February 7, 2022 by hollowneck
spelling

[paul carruthers]

16 minutes ago, hollowneck said:

You caught the upside down "N" cock-up - Good! Glad you fixed the "X" too...🤣...

Very nice work. This is an advanced kit build and you're doing a great job for only your second wooden model ship.

 

Appreciated

[paul carruthers]

A little more progress, a bit of fettling to get a good fit on the gunwales, and I’ve no idea why some pics are upside down

 

 

Edited February 9, 2022 by paul carruthers
Pics upside down

[James H]

The gunwales look like you didn't struggle too much. They look just perfect.

 

Just a quick note to check this topic out for when your pictures are upside down:

 

 

[CaptnBirdseye]

Supurb build so far. Watching with interest.

[paul carruthers]

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback, people are well aware that we are usually very critical of our own work and all the thumbs and comments are really appreciated.

[paul carruthers]

Time for a break, my rudder gap is too large but I’ve not the courage to try and remedy at this point.

[BenD]

22 hours ago, paul carruthers said:

my rudder gap is too large but I’ve not the courage to try and remedy at this point.

What gap? Everything looks good to my eye.

[Blue Ensign]

She's looking very smart Paul, maybe the photo angle  but the rudder gap doesn't catch my eye.

 

Nice progress.

 

B.E.

[paul carruthers]

Update, ready to commence the small craft, look challenging.

[paul carruthers]

Any how to’s on mast shaping? I don’t have a lathe, only modelling tool I have is a proxon disc sander, razor plane and the usual sanding hand tools. Thanks

[allanyed]

Having seen so many build logs of the Sphinx from Vanguard here at MSW I got curious and went to the RMG Collections site.   The site has every drawing one could hope for to produce an outstanding kit, and Chris has achieved exactly that.   It is obvious a ton of study of these dozen or so drawings was made as the details from these drawings show up on the model.   https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Sphinx 1775

Allan

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

That bow shot of the headworks looks good, and I like the white paint scheme of the wheel. 👍

 

As far as the masting is concerned, if you have a variable speed drill you can use it as a proxy lathe and hand sand any taper required, or if you're using square stock  the razor plane can be used to gradually round the  stick, finished off by hand sanding.

I don't imagine the lower masts will be too problematic because little if any taper is required, maybe some flattening for the cheeks. The tricky part will be keeping the masthead which is square in section true.

Were I doing it, I would cut around the base of the head using a razor saw 1mm deep,  glue a template of the square section on top of the dowel. Pare it down by degrees using a chisel or similar, and finish with sanding sticks, constantly checking the square.

 

The Topmasts are more tricky, having  an octagonal heel, square head, and flared hounds. On these I would personally start with square stock, as the rounding and tapering are easier to do, but if you're using round stock then a sharp chisel will be your friend. I would mark off each section using Tamiya tape, and begin with the rounding and tapering section between the heel and hounds.

 

B.E.

 

[paul carruthers]

3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

That bow shot of the headworks looks good, and I like the white paint scheme of the wheel. 👍

 

As far as the masting is concerned, if you have a variable speed drill you can use it as a proxy lathe and hand sand any taper required, or if you're using square stock  the razor plane can be used to gradually round the  stick, finished off by hand sanding.

I don't imagine the lower masts will be too problematic because little if any taper is required, maybe some flattening for the cheeks. The tricky part will be keeping the masthead which is square in section true.

Were I doing it, I would cut around the base of the head using a razor saw 1mm deep,  glue a template of the square section on top of the dowel. Pare it down by degrees using a chisel or similar, and finish with sanding sticks, constantly checking the square.

 

The Topmasts are more tricky, having  an octagonal heel, square head, and flared hounds. On these I would personally start with square stock, as the rounding and tapering are easier to do, but if you're using round stock then a sharp chisel will be your friend. I would mark off each section using Tamiya tape, and begin with the rounding and tapering section between the heel and hounds.

 

B.E.

 

Thanks for that, I guess slow and measure is the best way as you recommend 

[paul carruthers]

Well the boats are beyond my skills and patience I’m afraid, hopefully 3D printed options will be available.

James H must be applauded for completing these on the build for the manual.

[glbarlow]

Excellent work. The planking, without excessive fill and paint over, is especially impressive.

 

While I now have a lathe I masted many models with the drill and hand sand method BE described. Just go slow and measure tapers frequently. 

[paul carruthers]

I’ve not posted for a bit, to be honest struggling with shaping the mast profiles but I’m getting there.

from the drawing hilited I’m struggling to understand the band running vertically, is it a metal strip?

thanks.

[chris watton]

The top part around the mast cap is simply thread that secures the lift blocks shown each side (M&L), and the vertical lines you highlight are battens. These have a part number and are pre cut on one of the 0.6mm (I think) pear sheets.