HM Schooner Ballahoo by GGibson - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64

[GGibson]

Still trying to finish my Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, but waiting on some more rigging line in order to finish rigging the sails, blocks, etc.  So... while I am waiting on USPS to deliver that line, I thought I would begin my next project waiting in the shipyard.  Decided to work on the Ballahoo.

 

 

This one is going to be very much different than my first two builds... the Norwegian Sailing Pran or the Lobster Smack... in that the instructions are definitely not as detailed as those first two, which were specifically designed for the "novice" first-time shipbuilders.  The Ballahoo comes with a 10-page instruction and part ID manual, as well as three (3) large 33" x 24" plan sheets. This Ballahoo ship has been sitting in the "shipyard waiting room" since last March when I purchased it, and I hadn't opened it until now. But, with an inventory check, it appears everything is in order.

 

I've already reviewed a couple previous build logs for this Ballahoo, and will be referring back to them often as I progress through my own build.  I welcome other comments, suggestions and advice, as well!

 

Have started removing the bulkheads and keel from the sheet and sanding all the edges smooth.  I'll update more as I move forward on this, with a brief pause to finish the Lobster Smack once I get that new rigging line.

 

Thanks!

Gregg

Edited October 29, 2022 by GGibson

[ccoyle]

This is one of Chris Watton's very early Caldercraft designs, and the spartan instructions are typical for those early kits. Still, Ballahoo is not a complex vessel, and the kit makes an attractive model. Be sure to check out some of the other build logs for her if you haven't done so yet.

 

Good luck and enjoy!

[GGibson]

Thanks, Chris!  I recall seeing your comments on those other Ballahoo build logs, as well, so look forward to your follow on this one!

[GGibson]

Started with the hull construction.  Pleased so far in how the bulkheads fit into the keel and how the false ply deck fit down onto the tops of the bulkheads.  When dry fitting the bulkheads, I needed to sand almost every one of the bulkhead slots so that they slid firmly in place, without being so tight as to be stuck but yet not so loose as to be wobbly.  Was careful to use my mini square tool on each bulkhead (something I did not do well on earlier builds) to make sure they were at 90 degrees to the keel.  This work paid off in having the false ply deck fit perfectly on the bulkheads. 

 

 

Other than Bulkhead 11, I did not sand or bevel any of the bulkhead edges prior to placement and gluing the deck, so working on doing that now.  To make it easier to handle as I do this sanding, I am waiting on placement of the stern counter frames and the stern counter and fascia pieces, so that I don't accidentally snag them or break them.  As everything fit pretty nicely, really only Bulkheads 1, 2 & 10 really need great attention.  Yay!

 

As I placed and glued the walnut bow and walnut keel, they didn't come together exactly perfectly, and there is a small gap at the join, so I will need to do some fill there.

 

Once I am done with the bulkhead sanding to where they are all flush with the deck, looks like it's on to the gunport bulwarks and planking.  

 

[georgeband]

Gregg,

 

You have made a good start on your Ballahoo. I envy the fit of the bulkheads that you have found in your kit - in mine they were all very loose and would flap about if you breathed on them. I suggest you try the dowel for the masts and check that it fits in the deck holes and spine slots. Hopefully you will be lucky there too and Caldercraft have sorted earlier quality problems. 

Enjoy your build but be prepared for other design issues such as the carronades which are horrible and oversize anchors! 

 

George

[GGibson]

Thanks for the feedback, George!  And for the advance warnings on the masts, carronades and anchors.  I'll watch for those concerns and report back!  Thanks!

[GGibson]

OK, so I do have a question and looking for advice... I made a previous comment on how well the false deck fit around the bulkheads, but now as I am sanding the bulkhead edges to be flush against the deck, I am noticing gaps between the false deck bottom and the outside tops of several of the bulkheads.  When I glued the deck down, the center obviously glued securely, but because of the slight curvature in the bulkhead tops, the deck is not touching the bulkheads on the edges.  I should probably go around and spot-glue those areas, correct? This will probably have an effect on how the gunport bulwarks and the hull planking fit?

 

 

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Gregg

[ccoyle]

Correct. The deck should match the curvature of the bulkhead tops all the way out to the edge. Often in this sort of design, the bits of deck between the bulkhead extensions can still flex up or down, creating a bit of undulation fore-to-aft. One way to address that would be to add some appropriately cambered bits of scrap wood on either side of each bulkhead for the deck to adhere to.

[georgeband]

Gregg,

 

You have discovered a common problem in these kits, which is that a flat piece of ply has to follow a compound curve. The only ways to do this are by stretching the ply (good luck with that), putting in cuts (photo below) or ignoring it which is the most common approach. Ignoring it is not so bad here because the fore-aft and side-to-side curves are usually not very pronounced. The deck profiles on the kit bulkheads have too much slope on them and the ply false deck can stand proud of them. Chris's suggestion for extra bits on the bulkheads will work if you are concerned about structural strength and is easy to do. 

 

Forward section of the false deck with slots cut in above the bulkheads to allow for compound curves

 

George

 

 

[GGibson]

So, I worked a bit on closing the gaps between the deck underside and the bulkheads, and am satisfied those look better now.  Now to work on the two gunport bulwarks.  After soaking the bulwark sheets in warm water for an hour as recommended, they were pretty easy to work with.  After dry-fitting, it was time to glue.  I always love the visual of a dozen or more colorful spring vises doing their thing.

 

 

I do have a bit of concern on the aft end of the bulwarks.  In fitting them so that they came down just past the deck level, the tops of the bulwarks ended up about 2-3mm below the top of the stern counter.  This may be a critical error on my part, as the first planking could have covered any gaps at the deck and it's more important for the bulwarks to be even with the stern counter.  Thoughts?  Advice?  Will I be able to simply sand down the stern counter without any other repercussions?

 

Going out of town for an extended weekend beginning Thursday, so don't think I'll start the first planking until my return.  Appreciate the read and the advice.

 

Gregg

[ccoyle]

8 hours ago, GGibson said:

Thoughts?  Advice?

 

I'm going to flag @chris watton on this, as he designed the kit. Usually the bulwark strip is supposed to sit level with the tops of the bulkhead extensions, but I can't state that authoritatively for this kit.

[chris watton]

22 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

I'm going to flag @chris watton on this, as he designed the kit. Usually the bulwark strip is supposed to sit level with the tops of the bulkhead extensions, but I can't state that authoritatively for this kit.

This was a very long time ago, 23,24 years - I honestly cannot remember, these were very quick developments (with designs originally hand drawn). this is all I can remember from this time. Sorry.

[ccoyle]

13 minutes ago, chris watton said:

This was a very long time ago, 23,24 years - I honestly cannot remember

 

I thought that might be the case, but it was worth a shot. Try looking at these finished builds for visual hints.

[glbarlow]

You should fare the bulkheads so there is a smooth run of a test plank fore to stern before adding the gunport strips, the probably would fit better. You definitely need to fare them before starting planking. 
 

The deck needs to be pushed / weighed down and glued to the bottom of the bulkheads side to side forming a slightly bowed deck before the gunport parts are added. 
 

Hang in there, solving problems is have to fun, for me creating often seems to be the other half. 

Edited February 8, 2022 by glbarlow

[bobandlucy]

Looks good Gregg, I'll follow along.

[GGibson]

Another brief update.  Spent a decent amount of time fairing the bulkheads in preparation on plank placement.  Between using a good amount of sanding sticks and a new cordless Dremel I purchased a few months ago, I am pretty pleased with how a "test plank" was forming from one end to another.  Now I'm beginning the first planking, beginning at the bulwarks.  I've done two planks on each side.  The top planks were placed fore-to-aft with no beveling.  The 2nd plank, though, was beveled on both sides in order to fit what seemed to be a natural run without tooo much bending/twisting.  Unless I run into something I'm unaware of yet, I'll continue this beveling process on other planks.  In looking at other Ballahoo build logs, it appears others have done this, as well. A few minor gaps, but my plan is to run these planks as tight as I can, with the understanding that the 2nd planks will cover any minor issues underneath.

 

If anyone sees anything I'm doing wrong, hollar!  I always appreciate the comments.

 

[georgeband]

Gregg,

 

Planking gets easier with practice as you learn the techniques that work for you. Have you been pre-bending the planks before gluing, or do you rely on the glue to hold them in place? The various build logs describe different ways of bending (dry heat, wet, or hot and wet) and the difficulties of bending a plank across its width rather than the easy way across its thickness. Have a go with the first planking and then the second layer will be less daunting. 

 

Any gaps between the planks, or between the first plank and the bulwark, will haunt you later. Glue an offcut of the planks inside the hull to cover the gap from behind and you will then be able to fill it before sanding. Better still to bend and shape the planks to close the gaps so they do not form. Tapering the planks (adjusting the width) is even more important than chamfering the edges (cutting an angle on them) to get a really tight fit. 'Bevelling' to me suggests chamfering though you might mean tapering, or it could be that the meanings change across the Atlantic. 

 

I am probably at the slow end of the speed building spectrum and some planks take me half an hour to prepare before gluing. Ten minutes for an 'easy' plank is a pleasant surprise! Take your time and enjoy the hobby. 

 

George

 

 

[GGibson]

Hello George! Thank you for your comments and advice.  Yes, I have been soaking the planks in very hot tap water for 45+ minutes to assist with the bending/forming.  I have now placed a third plank on each side and taking my time, as you suggested, in making sure to eliminate all the gaps that I can.  And, yes, this rookie shipbuilder used the wrong term.  I did mean tapering instead of beveling.  Thanks for the correction on my terminology.

 

Slow and steady with the remainder of the first planking!  I'll ask for additional advice when I run into my next conundrum.

 

Gregg

[GGibson]

Haven't gotten very far in the planking process.  Taking my time and doing what I can to avoid gaps, etc. (and took a break over the weekend). Not really worthy of an updated post, but I had to share a new technique I picked up.  It was either on another thread in this Model Ship World site, or on a YouTube video.  I revised some Acco binder clips to hold the plank tight against each of the bulkheads as well as the plank next to it.  I am so excited!  Anyways, I am continuing to work on the planking!

 

Edited February 23, 2022 by GGibson

[ccoyle]

12 hours ago, GGibson said:

Taking my time and doing what I can to avoid gaps, etc.

 

That's time well spent. I'm not entirely pleased with some of my early planking efforts and often wish that I had taken more care with them.

[georgeband]

That's a smart use of clips, Gregg, especially the way the spring holds the plank down. Thanks for sharing. For the planks near the keel and for the second planking there is no bulkhead to grab on to and I suggest a pin pushed into each bulkhead. If you angle the pin next to the plank it presses the plank down and against its neighbour. Don't push the pin through the plank because you risk splitting it and you also end up with holes to fill. If you go ahead with this method then put pencil marks on your first planking to show where the bulkheads are underneath them. Many will get sanded off but it is easy to do for each plank as you lay it and the remaining marks can be joined up, ready to guide the pins for your second planking. 

 

 

George

 

[GGibson]

Hi All - OK, so now I am looking for some more experienced advice/guidance.  I am at the seventh (7th) plank working down from the bulwarks (or up from them, as I have been working with the ship upside down), and about to work my way along the rudder post.  At this point, should I now place the garboard strakes and work down from them in order to determine where I may have to do some major tapering, or some "stealer placement" as @jim_smits did, for example, in his Ballahoo build?  Or should I continue where I am at, and be concerned with the tapering as I get closer to the garboard?

 

Hope my question makes sense.  Appreciate everyone's advice.  Thanks.

 

[georgeband]

I would keep going in sequence and put the garboard strake in last. It is tricky to fit the last plank wherever it sits but the garboard is, in my opinion, the less difficult to trim to shape. 

Be prepared for stealers now. At the bow you will find that the tapers go to a point and fall short of the stem post unless you do something smart. Similarly at the stern you will find gaps between the planks that need to be filled. Simple triangles will do at the stern or you can try to follow real practice. (If you are painting the hull below the waterline no one will know if you take some shortcuts.) 

 

George

[GGibson]

Appreciate your input/advice, George!  I will carry on!  And, yes, I can see where I'll need a few "gap-filling stealers" at the stern as I progress.  I'll let you know how it comes out!

 

Thanks...

Gregg

[GGibson]

Well, I have completed the first planking to about the best of my ability, still in my "newbie learning" stage.  I have done plenty of sanding, filing with bits of putty here and there, and more sanding to the point it all feels pretty smooth and consistent for the 2nd set of planks to adhere to.  I really love the Keystone sanding sticks.  Started with the 80 grit and moved to the 120 and 180 grit twigs as the look and feel improved.  Tried to minimize the use of putty (definitely less than I did on the Lobster Smack), but still has a noticeable putty residue in spots.  As I am planning on painting the hull, this shouldn't be an issue, though.  I read in one of the Ballahoo build logs where the entire exterior was given a coat of diluted PVA glue at this point to give it a bit of strength before the 2nd planking. 

 

 

For the 2nd planking using the walnut strips, I was planning on having full strakes on the bulwark (except at the gunport positions) and a full garboard strake.  But then for the planking in between, I was going to use Chuck Passaro's method of lining off and measuring planks for tapering where necessary, etc.  Hope it all comes out as well as some of the recent build logs I have been reading and referring to for guidance so far!

 

If anyone has any guidance/suggestions... any "don't forget to do's"... I appreciate your advice!  After several days of Mother Nature teasing us in the Kansas City area with mild late Feb/early March temperatures, it's back down in the 30's-40's for a few days, so it's good to spend some quality time in the shipyard.

 

Thanks for listening!

Gregg

Edited March 6, 2022 by GGibson

[GGibson]

Well, after a lot of research and worry, I have begun the 2^nd planking on the Ballahoo.  I did a couple of strakes at the garboard strake and also over and just past the bulwarks.  At this point, I have measured the distance between top and bottom at each bulkhead to determine how much I will need to taper each of the walnut strips, especially at the bow.

 

I was contemplating whether to have full length strakes from bow to stern or to do shorter planks and butt them in a shift pattern that I saw examples of.  If I were going to be staining the hull, I think the butt shift pattern would look really nice, but since I am going to be painting, I didn’t think it would be that noticeable, anyways. So, going the full length on the planking.

 

 

We will see how my measurements and calculations progress as I work on the hull.  As I said, the strips are being sanded/tapered on the bow end down to between 2.15-2.4mm on the 4mm wide strips (thank you digital caliper!), so they are pretty narrow.  I plan on re-measuring periodically as I progress to see if the numbers change.  So, it is definitely slow-going!

 

I hope I have described the process accurately.  If anyone has any comments/suggestions on what to do differently or better, I appreciate the input.  Thanks!

Gregg

[GGibson]

Well, I have trudged forward on the 2nd planking of my Ballahoo.  I am really disappointed in the way I miscalculated and misplaced the planks with poor tapering.  I posted a question on another thread with suggestions and I got several "take planks off and/or start over" comments.  I am still keeping the "start over" option on the table, but decided to see what I can salvage out of some decent sanding/filling/sanding/filling exercises.  I keep thinking that, since I'm painting the hull anyways, perhaps much of my imperfections and horrible plank tapering work will not be noticeable.  Anyways, enough beating myself up.

 

 

As I just stated, I am now working on some serious sanding, filling a few spots with walnut wood filler where needed.  Starting with 100/120 grit sand sticks.  Will work up to 240 grit as we continue to smooth out a few bumps.  Still referring back to previous build logs for guidance and inspiration.  The one from jim_smits has been really helpful, even as I look ahead to deck planking, etc.

 

Still, though, keeping my options open on starting a new Ballahoo.  Let's see how this sanding/finishing process looks.

 

Gregg

[DanB]

 It is a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but it does not look so bad to me. I bet sanding filler and paint are going to fix it up just fine. 

[georgeband]

Gregg, 

 

Our modelling skills improve with practice and I look back at some of my old models and wonder why I did what I did. We learn and we get better. 

 

Most of your second planking will be covered by paint (unless you choose to go with copper...) and that will hide a multitude of sins which other people will never see. So use the filler and sand it smooth. I find a sanding stick is too small for a hull and use a larger block that fits my hand. Pressing the sandpaper with fingers has its merits too and it allows you to feel bumps and dips. Then put on a decent paint job - lots of coats of thinned paint if you use a hairy stick for painting, or use an airbrush. Choose the colour to suit your needs - bright white is a statement but a yellowy cream is closer to reality if you look at the recipes for 'white stuff'. That leaves the second planking above the waterline. If it is good enough on both sides then be happy. If it is good enough on just one side then that is the side to display and leave the other to face the wall. 

 

I would recommend that you continue with your Ballahou. You will learn more when you come to the masts and yards and the rigging and the deck furniture, and will look back later and think that you could have done it better. But your appreciative audience at home will be impressed by what you have created. Then when you come to build your next ship it will be better. 

 

George

[GGibson]

Thanks Dan and George for the feedback and the encouragement.  Yeah, the more I look at it now, and keep working some on sanding and filling where needed, it should be pretty decent once it gets several coats of paint on the hull.  And yes, George, was planning on the 'white stuff' look below the waterline.  Moving forward!  Thanks again, gentlemen, for peeking in and sharing your comments!  Oh, and for those of you following the NCAA Men's Tournament... Rock Chalk Jayhawk!! 

 

Gregg