Snug Harbor Johnny Posted June 12, 2022 Share #1 Posted June 12, 2022 Ahoy mates ! Well, I've started this 'palate cleanser' kit based on some nudging from fellow modelers. I do not rush anything, yet the absence of masting, sails and rigging make this interesting kit one that can be done in far less time that many others. I reviewed the Woody Joe kit (unbuilt) in the Review section, and suggest that the log there be seen - since I don't want to repeat information contained there (with a few exceptions). I knew I'd be 'into' this model, since I like 'early stuff' - and will get around eventually to build the Billings Roar Ege (as a further prelude to doing the Billings Oseberg - and I want to do the best job on that one). I can't say enough about the quality of the laser cut parts on cedar stock in the Woody Joe kit. There are just a few breaks as 'attachment points', and an X-Acto knife breaks these easily. The parts then come out easily, cut to precise shapes with very little 'burning' on the edges. The frame (bulkhead) in the image below (detail from a pic in the review) shows how the rib (the only part to be left behind once the hull is planked) is almost completely free of the matrix to allow for ease of removal of the rest of the frame later. The width of the laser cut is about .006" - the thickness of a filing card (more on that soon). Care must be taken when handling these parts so they won't break. Now to step one, with my 'translations' written in. This step is meant for assembly with no glue, but there will be an exception. Once fitted, the framework is pretty good with little flexing, but the frames can be dislodged from full engagement - so the 'exception' to gluing (which even the kit instructions later mention) solves any slippage problem and renders the assemble pretty solid when dry (titebond glue). First, lets see the initial assembly. As you can see, I've inserted a strip of filing card stock in the tiny gap left by laser cutting the ribs from the frame. I will be putting a lit more of these spacers in before planking to prevent inward movement in these areas. The kit instructions expand on the clear pictures, but do not address the gap issue (easily solved). Oh yes, the little metal model (6" for and aft) of the USS Arizona was another 'palate cleanser' I did a build log on. It was a tricky thing to make, and I wanted to show that I DID complete a build earlier (last year) on the forum (check it out for yourself) as I was stuck on the problems with 'fixing' the old 1:100 Billings Wasa - now on hold but substantial progress was made last Winter. A closer look at the framing. Really, the design and execution of this nifty kit is ingenious - I love it already ! Now we come to the issue of fairing. Looking at a small portion of the full-size drawing of the model (needed for the build, as one must get a number of dimensions off it), you can see that the bottom board (the original has flat bottom planking) is faired to the ribs. No doubt about it. But to make the temporary building framework removable after planking to the ribs and 'stringers', the frames have to go in vertically. The laser cutting is in x and y dimensions, so the bottoms go in 'stair step ' fashion. This is typical of many model kit boat hulls and requires fairing (discussed in detail in other builds and as a separate issue elsewhere in the forum). BTW, I use the term 'stringers' from my old stick-built model airplane days, where 1/2 fuselage members are built right on the plan and joined by a series of thin balsa square stock running fore and aft ... known as stringers. Khufu's boat has a few, (representing internal battens on the original). The kit can be built by a 'beginner' without addressing the fairing issue with an acceptable result - so the kit says nothing about it. But I'll take a little care to do some fairing without breaking any of the ribs - it may be a tricky business. Once decked, one can hardly see the interior - but I'm picky on doing some things (loose as a goose on others) - and I'd like the rear access deck (hatch) pieces to be removable, as they were on the original so men could get under for maintenance. Khufu's boat shows signs of prior use, and must have been his personal yacht - the final trip was to bear his body to the great pyramid. Below shows the exact places to put a dab of pre-thickened wood glue with a dental tool. I have an old bottle of time bond kept on its side, and the glue has lost about half the water content - so is slow as the molasses in January. But this 'thickened' glue has its uses ... it is sticker than 'as bought' glue, 'grabs' quicker and dries faster. Glue dab are ONLY placed on the outside corners of the joins in the frame - as this will be easier to cut for later removal. Step 2 in the instructions appear next that even mention this option. Sorry for the 'bright spot' in the picture just where the instruction note shows the place to put glue dabs - but I have pictured this above clearly enough. Now I trial fitted one central 'keel' to see the 'steps' that need fairing. Note that the bow is not symmetrical to the stern, ergo there are holes in the side 'keel ' pieces to keep the ends oriented correctly. There is 'stepping', but is hard to see in the first picture. The second picture shows the stepping better, and (as in typical fairing done with kits) it is the edge toward either the bow (forward of amidships) or the stern (rearward of amidships) that get sanding/trimming. Right now, I'm not sure how I'll approach this. Note the tiny 'relief notch' at the end of the rib to prevent gluing planking to the frame BEYOND the rib. This is essential to permit easy removal of the framework later. The central 'keels' (bow and stern) to not have any relief cut, and as I want to glue planking to the ribs there might be a danger of 'squeeze out' glue sticking to the 'keel'. This is easy to sone by removing small amounts of material shown by pencil lines in the next picture. The kit directions mention nothing about this, but I can see ahead based on prior experience. First timers often learn by doing, and re-doing what went awry reinforces the experience gaining process. Just a few small cuts will do. I trial bent (partially, without wetting) the bottom plank to see how the amount of fairing will change going outward - and this is different between the bow and stern since they have different amounts of bending. I may wet, heat and pre-bend planking as I go to lessen the clamping force (done in many places on this build with rubber bands - not included in the kit). 'Sorry, but the focus is off, or I moved a little (holding the camera with one hand). That's all for now, mates. And further progress will require a little more thought before 'jumping in'. If you hand a chimp a banana, don't expect him to think about how he's going to peel it (much less read instructions). baskerbosse, catopower, thibaultron and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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